Twinky

I've called jaycar and they have no idea about anything. So I've managed to find an original wideband display kit, the last one in the state. Just have to drive a fair distance to get it but it'll be worth it. Getting the LSU4.2 sensor should be interesting....

I'm looking at this page http://siliconchip.com.au/cms/A_111003/article.html and use this http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5486 The KC-5300 is just jaycars remake on the old kit. I don't think that you necessarily need to change anything physically but in the set up of the unit where you push the buttons etc.

Yeah but to view the thing costs like $8, so if no one has the manual I'll have to fork it out.

Hey guys just wondering if anyone has this kit and still knows where their manual resides. I have the unit but for the life of me I cannot find the damn manual. I want to get the wideband kit for the display so I need to re configure the unit but without the manual I have no idea how to do it. I think the kit is kc-5300 or something along the lines of that. Cheers!

Did someone mention this was legal? How do you go about filling at a servo? Do the attendants ever stop your pumps while filling from the boot? Just wondering as I'm looking at doing this myself. The original tank and some lines don't seem to like EFI pressures and associated plumbing.

I think this guy is just trolling. 130 kw lol.....

You should be able to find something like a Haltech E8 from ebay, although they are a bit old they are really good for the price. If you don't have any supporting mods like higher duration cams, exhaust, coil packs etc then there is no point getting an after market ECU. Also don't forget you will still need to tune the ECU aswell which could set you back about $1000 considering it would be a complete re tune.

I don't know if you've realised but the last post was just over 6 years ago.

B43 B62.... lol......

You'll only know when you try!

I had 8/6 in my twinky and found it to be way too stiff on public roads, bouncing over potholes added with tracking coming from the camber it became a chore to drive rather than fun.

Oh and I forgot to mention in terms of handling you would want to look out for a front strut brace, I wouldn't go too crazy on a rear sway bar. Maybe 2mm more in diameter over your old one. Barry aka Bazda over on the twincam forums does coilovers for corollas, he might actually have something for your model. Maximum spring rates I would get is 6kg front and 4kg rear with dampening set all the way soft for comfort. Stopping power I would suggest an AE92 SX series 2 brake upgrade or if you can't get that get a decent quality pad like EBC Greenstuff/Redstuff pads (I say EBC because that's all I have used, not sure about others). For tyre size I would suggest something like 195's, you can go slightly wider but I wouldn't go past 205s. That should get you started in some direction at least, some mods you may not like but at least you get an idea of what to pay attention to.

Handy little tip for your gear stick. If you haven't already done this, find the markings on the shaft left by the allen key screws and file a flat surface along the marks. That way the knob won't have any play in it as over time it will loosen on a round surface. By making a flat surface it won't ever come loose. I wouldn't quite bet on 12k rpm, 9k rpm would be a reasonable figure but that would set you back around the $6000 mark. You have to consider a full engine balance, lightweight internals, high duration cams with high lift, lightened flywheel, all new valve train, oil cooler maybe even a dry sump system (a bit expensive and overkill) because at 9000 rpm running low on oil coming round a corner would starve the engine of oil and say bye bye to the engine. At least baffle the sump if you can't get a dry sump system. There is nothing stopping you revving to 9k rpm but without those types of mods it won't be long before a rod decides to exit the side of your block or a big end bearing gives up. Beyond 9,000 rpm is easily $8000 plus as you want reliability. Good luck and happy modding!

No one ever said that the 4AF is a bad motor but you have to be very careful about stating power figures and throwing around the "come at me bro I'll race ya" line. One thing I can assure you is that your 4AF was not designed to be held at 7,500 rpm where as the 4AGE can happily sit there all day. My 5k can also reach 7,500 rpm but that would be stupid to do so. Just because you can rev that high does not mean that you are making any usable power. Another thing you should be aware of is the power curve, ok you got a good peak torque or HP but what is the rest of the rpm like? How long does it take you to get top that rpm? The other point about the 4AGE is that there is an abundance of after market support for the motor. In regards for port diameters that is a useless figure as you need to match the port size with your valve size. Unless you get bigger valves there is no point in expanding the ports because you will slow down the air velocity, unless you then attach a turbo. From my personal experience I have owned a 4AGE bigport AE82 and left the 4AFEs in the dust at Mallala race track. If you were thinking about a transplant why not just go 4AGE 20 valve? It's like a worked 4AGE with quads and a higher rpm red line. I can certainly vouch for them. You need to actually get into a car with a 4AGE and take it for a drive, only then can you say that you like the 4AFE better or not. And please for the love of god, "yous" is not a word.

You can readily buy electric pumps for carbies off ebay, think the range is about 4 - 6 psi.

Iv'e had the cover off and everything looks normal, Starting the process of taking the thing apart.

Well I suppose this gives me an opportunity to rebuild the motor. Clean up the 4k and stick it in then in the mean time fix the 5k. I'll take another day off work soon and then I'll find out exactly what the problem is then.

I can definitely hear it coming from the engine, sitting there idling you can clearly hear it coming from the rear side of the engine. Quickly checked everything else and nothing out of the ordinary. Either way it seems as the engine needs to come out.

Valve train is all in order I've spun it by hand and had it at cranking speed. Sometimes the clacking sound is there at low rpm but when you raise the rpm the clacking is constant. I rarely ever reach 5000rpm with the motor but yes the foot was down on the throttle, when I lifted off I heard the clacking and then it just started to get louder and more constant after that. Ow well...... 5k out and 4k in it seems. Pain in the arse.....

Hey guys, 5k started to make a clack clack clack sound about 5 mins before I got home. The sound is similar to a tappet being out of adjustment but much louder. During driving there was no power loss or decreased driveablility. Initially I thought maybe a bent pushrod had bent but after taking the rocker cover off I see that the pushrods are all straight and are not fouling against anything. What do you guys think this could be? One of the hydro lifers are shot or something worse???? I have a 4k sitting in the shed so I do have a spare motor in case this is a terminal problem. cheers

It's clicked now..... You didn't remove the bearing carrier.

I know this is an old thread but anyway.... My 4k alternator has the coils mounted on the front housing whereas the VL has the coils sitting in the rear housing. Also I can not un bolt the god damn centre shaft because the bolt heads are on the inside of the housing. WTF? It's like the shaft was pressed together after it was bolted in. (on the 4k) Might try to drill the bolts out. Had no problems pulling apart the VL alternator.

Clutch aligning tools are useless... Well the one I got was useless anyway, I ended up using verniers to centre the clutch. WGMG: 5 minutes out from work the car starts struggling to rev above 2000rpm and holding steady rpm at all is a struggle. It was just missing, coughing and spluttering but was still drivable so I limped it into work. My train of thought at the time was Oh shit! It's finally happened.... Blown head gasket or the supercharger rotors are screwed. So at morning tea I went out and checked the coolant and oil. No contamination so that almost rules out head gasket. Didn't have a compression tester so couldn't be sure. I thought damn! Must be the supercharger! I look down at it and there is oil everywhere around the charger and leaking out of it. I thought ʞ©$ɟ it has lost all of it's oil supply and shat it's pants. So I undo the intake forward of the charger to check the rotors and yes it is full of oil, but this wasn't the chargers oil this was engine oil... Dirty engine oil.. I look at the oil breather and it is forcing a buttload of oil up the breather. So my next thought was the engine is choking with oil and the plugs have fouled! Well that's an easy fix. Upon further inspection of the intake I saw oil dripping out of the pressure side of the supercharger in between the flange. All I had in there was silicone gasket crap as I thought the two faces were good and straight, but I was wrong. So down to the auto store I went, got new plugs, oil, filter, some gasket paper/cork stuff and a buttload of de greaser. Left work early and limped the poor bugger home. I decided it was time for a total engine bay clean so I unbolted everything that I could with out too much fuss, covered some holes and away I went spraying everything down with degreaser. Got the hose out and washed it all off to reveal a nice and tidy engine bay! I got to work on cleaning the parts by hand that I had earlier taken off and sat them there to dry when I was done. Got a call from the missus to say that there was a BBQ at my in laws and that I needed to stop everything on the car and get ready to go. So I thought to myself that sure I could do with a break and some good food. Got to the house only to be greeted by the missus saying that my mother in law has burnt her face trying to light the barby for too long and letting the gas fill the area all ending with a big bang and her having to go to the hospital for burns. So with the BBQ short lived I went back to work on the beast, as I was admiring the clean engine bay I saw some grime underneath the supercharger mount so I decided to take it off and give that a quick clean. As I was unscrewing the mount I didn't even get three turns out of the bolt and it came off...... Along with an earth strap for the ignition module....... ʞ©$ɟ me I lost my shit. This one little bolt that wasn't tightened properly by me was the cause of all this mess. So there I was at 10pm and finally sourced the issue. The good thing, found an oil path issue, found a gasket issue and got a fresh engine bay. All in a days work