Twinky

Just thought I'd share the information. I haven't read it on here yet and it seems as though the user in question has already ripped people off. The user in question is http://www.rollaclub.com/board/user/14752-drftr/ Posted on the Twincam forums. Also has the link to AE86DC with information and a tip on how to see if you can get your money back. Please spread this info to any corolla website that you partake. Sorry mods didn't know where else to post.

I couldn't help myself, I wasn't going to put the new dash in until I fixed the crack in the centre but it was just sitting there looking sad. So I cooked dinner early and set off to work! Wasn't the easiest thing to do, took me about 4 hours all up. The original dash is such a pain to get out. Then I found out that I had to swap over the air con control cables as they were slightly different. The bolt holes to mount the dash were also about 5mm off, nothing a bit of light manipulation couldn't fix. It sits nice and tight, no rattles and looks amazing I must say. I definitely do prefer the new dash over the old. I just have to make some blanking plates to go over the holes left over and mount the AFR meter, Comms cable and start switch.

Maximum continuous speed on an AMR500 is 16000 rpm. I think at 18000 rpm you would be pushing it. Getting the AMR to push 5psi should be easy enough but getting past 10psi would put a bit of strain on the charger. Remember that the AMR500 was intended for engines under 1000cc.

Better piccies! And another grille I might try on for looks I like this other camera! Makes my car look shiney!

Yeah I listen to anything and everything, depends on the mood at the time. I love to just chill out to this type. Anyhows, The re-trim worked ok. The shape was quite hard to dorm to but a bit of heat gun work and stretch works fine. It'll come up a treat when the speakers are fixed in.

Now on to those speaker pods! I ripped off the vinyl from the cardboard and was left with this. So after about 30 mins with a razor blade and some scizzors. Now I'll Try to see if the original door cards can be manipulated into shape to fit over the pods.

Sorry mate I've changed my mind. I realise that I'll need that cut out for instrumentation. After going through a few build threads I got some inspiration to re upholster the boot and fuel tank cover. So materials check! 9mm ply Black fabric, any choice is fine! Underlay (only if your fabric is thin like mine)(synthetic wadding is quite cheap so I would advise it). Father in laws staple gun + staples. Half a brain (a quarter will do) Paper for stencil or original cards. After stencilling out and cutting out with a jigsaw you are ready for fabric application! Lay the fabric down first and place your new card over the fabric. Cut around with enough space to curl around all sides. curl over one side only and staple to the card. Then flip it over with top side facing up. What you will be doing now is pulling on the underlay and stapling it down. Stretch it out with each staple added untill you get to the edge. Then pull it around the edges and staple away! Underlay done! Then magic happens! No not really there is no magic. Staple one side down, pull taught to the opposite side making sure there are no creases. Then do the sides the same way. Don't pull too tight otherwise you will weaken the fabric. For those who use carpet material you don't have to worry about this. I chose not to use carpet because the colours offered weren't white right and I didn't want to run around for hours finding the right stuff. Plus I like the look of a flat colour. More Voodoo! Simple, cheap and effective! Sorry about the quality of the pics, had to use my phone as the cameras batteries were flat. Now that your work is done, pour yourself a scotch and coke and chill out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjC-hznTwMA

I have used VHT before and I did like the engine enamel so I'll give the vinyl spray a go then. Hopefully the colour looks ok. I thought that gap was for the radio and the other way for the ash tray. If you do have one that fits in the gap I'd definitely like it, what you want for it? Northern or southern suburbs?

Finally got my arse up and went to the wreckers to go treasure hunting. Good thing I did too! I went down to the Gillman yard to have a look at what it's like, not really that impressive. All the bogans are kept out of the sun inside the massive shed and all the imports are outside in the sweltering heat. All of the KE3/5 series if just shithouse there, smashed, rusted, ripped as people don't give a ʞ©$ɟ about anyone else wanting anything from the car. Anyway, I did manage to find some decent speaker door pods, they even have provisions for tweeters! So I pinched some average door cards which have had the cardboard ripped/split and I'll use that material to re-trim the material on the pods to match the door cards. I also took a trip up to Elizabeth and managed to find what in my opinion is, the better dash out of the KE series. And it only have one small crack! I was at the yard before and saw it there but it had a heap of bits missing, only by chance did I spot that someone else had already ripped apart the dash and hid the components in three different Corollas. Maybe he was trying to do what I wanted to do? Who knows, I'm just happy that he didn't take the rip it to shit approach in getting the dash apart. The spoils of war! It's a dash out of the 2 door KE30 sedan, a corolla that I barely see around Adelaide. Plenty of coups but barely any of these. So I'll be cleaning it up and I'll fix/hide the crack and give it a lick of paint. A question for anyone who knows, What is the best vinyl paint to use? I want something that will not scratch off. If there is nothing good out there I'll just clean it up and polish it as best as I can. Woot!

All depends on what class you want to race in. Some require full rollcages etc etc others are not so fussy.

Could very well be the dizzy! only takes a few teeth to be out completely.

Google is your friend! You could almost be racing every weekend if you joined EVERY club here in Adelaide. I suggest you have a look at these clubs to begin with: http://www.mscasa.com/ http://www.sportingcarclubsa.org.au/ Our raceway: http://www.mallala.com/ A raceway in development (Already does drag/drifts): http://www.tailembendmotorsport.com/ Hillclimb events held at: Collingrove Mount Alma A big event if you have the money to enter (this is on my wish list): http://www.classictargaadelaide.com.au/adelaide/adelaide_home.html And if you don't want to compete just yet and get a taste of the track just check out the calendar at Mallala raceway and take a look at the practice days: They are usually cars only or cars and karts. When I went last year it was $110 entry fee and $25 for a cams licence for the day. Depending on the day and how many cars you can get over 8 runs and 10-15 mins each. Don't even get me started on drift events, like a plague they are....

Sometimes I like to grease myself up and wriggle on the floor pretending to be a kitchen slugg.

Why?

Ok ok, pics as requested... Sorry but it's a bit messy. Didn't clean it all up just in case I needed to do the job again. PCV going to plenum. Blocked vent (tried getting it off but it's jammed in there real good!) New vent on blanking plate. 1/4 inch barb. liquid metal around the edges just to make sure. Onto the throttle (atmo side) And something else I was toying with :) Gilmer drive for the charger! And for the keen eye, yes the charger isn't in line. Havent tightened up the bolts so no need to panic!

All good! so far that is...... PCV valve goes into the plenum, blanking plate breather goes before the throttle. No oil leaks to speak of and no blow outs on the gasket. Gave it a good revving and nothing leaking as of yet. I'll have to test it on the road to really make sure but at the moment everything is good!

There seems to bee quite some pressure building up and there is allot of air coming out of the oil cap when I take it off. I was wrong about the PCV valve, it seems to be clean air in. What would be vapour out the original owner decided to block it off. So this is how I will do it. PCV goes to before throttle body (atmo) New barb fitting on fuel pump blanking plate goes into plenum (Vacc) Or is it the other way around? Took the day off work today so should all be hunky dory by the end of today. I love the fact I can just tell my boss that I'm not coming in, I still get paid and it does not come from any annual/sick leave. Flexie time for the win!

For the cost of the conversion it's far easier to just source a gearbox. It does take a little time to find someone selling one but they always come up. I'm not sure if the auto boxes out of KE7x series fit the same into KE3x series. I know that the manual boxes fit but the gear stick is in a different position.

Toyot specialists = Turning works of art into homochariots.

The valve in the rocker cover seems to be non existent as i can blow in and out of it. I know that it is the sump as when i turn the car off you can hear it venting through, i stuck my finger over the suspected leak and it slowed the venting/leaking. cheers

Cheers for the feedback guys. I would say that I've definitely over tightened them as I've gone far beyond hand torque. So what I will do is get the new gasket on, hand tighten + quarter turn. For good measure I'll also add a barb fitting to the blanking plate that will go back to the intake.

WGMG - oil leaks, means I have to drive the other car and poor old beastie stays at home.

There is one connection on the top my rocker cover (4kEFI cover) and that goes back to the intake, I think I might make another line from the blanking plate for good measure.

What motivates us? I was watching a show on the ABC network the other day and came across this very interesting clip. It somewhat relates to car enthusiasts such as ourselves and why we strive to get better and better at what we do. Its worth a watch! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6XAPnuFjJc

Hey guys, Just wondering what kind of pressures to expect in the crank case. Reason being is that I'm blowing the sump gasket repeatedly. I've tried using only the gasket and I have also tried with gasket silicon + gasket. Both seem to sprout leaks. It is not a major leak but enough to make a plate sized puddle in 10 mins at idle. Basically as many of you may know I've gone EFI, but I was too lazy to make a blanking plate for the original fuel pump. The fuel pump has been leaking about a drop of oil every 5 mins so it didn't really bother me too much at all. I had a bit of free time recently so I made up a blanking plate and removed the pump just last night. So this morning I warmed up the car ready for work and all looked good, not a drop of oil coming from the blanking plate. I then give the engine a bit of a rev and splat, oil starts dripping down at the rate of a plate every 10 mins. So now that the fuel pump is no longer releaving pressure it has gone through the weakest point at the sump gasket. Now I am thinking that because I have used silicon along with a gasket it could of just had a bad seal that was holding on good enough because it did not have too much pressure on it. So when the plate was put on all the pressure went on it and pop, off it went. What I am planing to do is use something allot more sticky that will guarantee a seal but..... Did the seal pop because of too much pressure in the crank case or just because it was a bad seal? My car currently has only one line coming from the rocker cover which goes directly into the plenum so it is under vacuum the whole time. Should I drill a hole into the blanking plate, put a fitting on it and run it into the intake? Or should I just seal up the sump and hope I don't blow a rear main? Cheers!