Twinky

Either or really, if you can get hub centric spacers then go for those preferably. The only reason you wouldn't use non hub centric is if you are not confident in centring the wheel properly. Usually the wheel nuts centre the mag anyway. I've used non hub centric and haven't had any issues.

Also, Awesomeness

Yeah I'll be hard wiring straight to the battery through a switch. Voltage at the coil stays at 12 volts though so I don't think I need to do anything there. I'll be getting my new ignition module today and hopefully I'll be seeing a spark this late afternoon.

My ECU has two power inputs, one permanent power source and another switched power source. Seems as though my switched source voltage drops below 12v while cranking.

Awesome!!! I closed the air gap to a bees dick and woop woop I get a signal!!!!! I also found that I can't use my accessory line to switch the ECU because the line drops below 12 volts while cranking and cuts the ECU out. So I will wire it to a switch. Now comes the stuipid part....... I bought the wrong ignition module....... So tomorrow I'll get another.. Cheers for the advice Taz!!

You can't just advance the dizzy itself because you will be rotating the ignition timing itself. That will cause the rotor phasing to be out. If you rotated the dizzy 60 degrees back you are also relocating the actual physical ignition point back and the rotor button will be in free space when you reach the firing signal. What I did was rotate the rotor plate 60 degrees back and glued it in place. That way I can keep the dizzy where it is but the sensor itself is 60 degrees back. Just a a little pictorial: Looking at the dizzy overhead, imagine that the blue bit (rotor button) does not move as you rotate the dizzy back (green bit) The circles are the point towers. Black ones are the dizzy in normal operation, green in advance. So you can see that the point towers move back as well (green) causing rotor phasing issues. In modern ignition systems this is not an issue because all of the dizzy are made with the sensors already in advance. But because I am using a dizzy from a carby car the sensor is already at the firing point. Although I could be miss interpreting you and you are actually mentioning moving the dizzy shaft back 60 degrees by skipping gear teeth?

Yep done it the way Taz has said. I'll post some pics up later tonight, should hopefully be starting her up tomorrow! Should have started her up over the weekend but my current reluctor pickup in the distributor does not create enough voltage at cranking speeds. So the computer can't read the signal until slightly higher rpm. So I'm making a hall type pickup and I'll be finishing it off tonight.

Get some multigrips, vice jaws basically anything you can tighten over the shaft. Get some rubber strip and place between the jaws and the strut. That way you have plentiful grip and no damage done to the shock.

Cheers again!

Cheers mate. Would it be wise to use the charcoal canister outlet as the fuel return from the surge tank? As in getting rid of the canister all together like so. Reason being I am not overly keen on getting the fuel tank out and welding another outlet but if it must be done I'll do it.

Well I'm coming to the part of setting up the fuel system. I've quickly drawn up a sketch of how I'll plumb it all in and have followed the FAQ/Wiki section but I have added an extra fuel filter. The surge tank has 4 ports so I will have to look into blocking one out. If anything looks out of place feel free to let me know. It looks like the writing in the green boxes is a little bit stuffed, it says "Fuel Pump".

More progress today! Stuff left to do: Injector loom to be finished off Neaten loom Fuel system Tune ????? Profit

I'll be replacing the Spades with Cannon "Milspec" connectors. I didn't solder them because If I needed to change anything I would have to desolder them. All the extension, interconnections, splices have been soldered and adhesive lined heat shrinked. Basically I need to make sure that I've done everything correctly and I have all the wires in the right place before I make it permanent with connectors. I'm trying to make this a disconnect system so that I don't have to cut anything If I want to change something. I've used the blue electrical tape to make everything that has been done recently "stand out" so that I can double check everything once I'm done and then replace it with black tape.

Back to work Before: After: Yay I have ignition! Finishing off the wiring tomorow, not too far off now! Damn my back hurts from all the leaning over and soldering with my mouth, I need to evolve and grow another arm.

Cheers mang, Electronics is actually my trade so I't easy for me. I was actually quite surprised at how simple an after market system is to wire up compared to an OEM system.

Well, I've finally gotten off my arse and started to fit all of the gear that I have been squireling away. The first thing that I needed to do was to sort the trigger out. I ended up using a standard electronic dizzy and gluing the mechanical advance mechanism closed and gluing the pickup 60 degrees in advance to trigger the ECU. Extractors test fitted, sweet. Wiring finally being wired... Lots of circuits diagrams to read! So I hope to get this up and running within a few short weeks, I'm going to get it all set up in N/A setup and then add the supercharger when time permits.

Sorry mate, Cumberland Park is a bit of a drive for me. My 2c, get a timing light. Cheap as chips and very useful.

Where about in Adelaide are you? If you're close I might be able to pop by and have a look. Even with a ballast resistor being faulty the car should still start but will stall very shortly after. Another thing could be timing is off if you have played around with the distributor.

A 4k dizzy would probably suit it better than a 5k dizzy as the ignition advance in the 4k is better than the 5k variant.

I have to make sure that whatever gets stuck stays stuck. I'm converting mine to an EFI dizzy, so it needs to have 0 advance and the reluctor pickup has to sit a minimum of 60 degrees in advance to the actual ignition moment. I think I might go down the araldite path, used it plenty of times.

You guys remember a guy named John at KEMotorsport????? He sells them already. Linky linky! http://www.kemotorsport.com/ go to the turbo/header/carby flanges section I know, I'm great right?

All porcupines float in water.

Is the mechanism alloy or steel?? I'm looking into locking my dizzy as well, I'll weld it myself but if it's alloy I won't touch it.