Twinky

Oh and one more thing, Timofee. I would advance with this track day with caution, don't let troublemakers come along because Tailem Bend raceway can hold you personally liable for damage to the track facilities. Had one douchebag cause some trouble once at Mallala on a private booking but luckily avoided any damages. He was doing donuts in the garage area.

No such thing as insurance on a race track. You stack it and that's it. Someone stacks it into you, you are not covered. Public liability is there to cover the track owners, not you. If you hurt yourself you can try to sue but at the end of the day you agreed to the terms and conditions stated by the CAMS temporary licence that you absolve all legalities as soon as you set foot on the track, even as a spectator. CAMS licence should only be 25$ for the day. Even if you have your full CAMS licence you are NOT COVERED. So please no one come into this thinking that you are covered. Just don't do anything stupid and you will be fine. I'd love to come along! But..... my car is a fair while off being complete :'(

I have never seen that 3 line pump before, The standard factory one is the 2 line pump. The screw in fitting is the outlet and the clamped pipe is the inlet from the fuel filter. What you have there is not from a 4k. Even 3k had the 2 line pump.

Pod filters are actualy legal. The reason most people get stung for them is because they are not secured properly. i.e just dangling in the air. I bought my missis a car from a cop who had actually fitted extractors and a pod filter. The car is a Mazda 323 SP20. The top hat style filter must be complied, like any other modification. It's not a safetly concern more of an insurance and liability issue.

Well I've taken the head off and checked it out visually and there actually isn't alot of meat separating the water jacket to the bolt hole. So I'll slap on some sealant along the thread and it should hold just fine, I was able to stop the leak just by turning the screw in a few turns. I'm just really annoyed with it. I start a simple job and then it just snowballs. Well now that it's all off I guess I'll be fitting my fuel injection setup now.

Taking out my inlet/exhaust manifold and coolant has started to leak out of the rear - top most bolt hole. So the last bolt towards the rear that both the inlet and exhaust get mounted to. I am able to squish the radiator hose and squirt coolant out of the bolt hole...... I wouldn't say that's normal? Could it be a headgasket problem? I'm not using any coolant or leaking any at the bottom, I only noticed it after I took off the manifolds. Again, WTF?

So..... what budget did you have in mind?

Keep it serviced regularly. Don't stuff with it. There is no cheap way of adding power to a N/A motor.

It's a BOMB! Run for your life!

Lol the title should be re named to "Holden burnout gone right"

Seems as though all the pics that I have been able to find have the throttle before the supercharger, So I'll do that.

Hey guys, So my EFI setup is coming along very well and is almost at the state of completion with locking the dizzy being the final step. My original plan was to supercharge the motor with a light 5 psi setup on the stock 5k. I have been contemplating where to run the vac hose from the rocker cover and have come to the thought that the location of the throttle body is going to change the way that the supercharger behaves as well as vac ports. So as it stands the throttle body is nicely sitting on the plenum but I think that I am going to have to move it to the intake of the supercharger. Would this be the correct way setting it up? Because locating it there will give me a constant vacuum port in-between the throttle and supercharger. In that case what would be a good throttle to use? The EFI setup is using the 4KE manifold so it's quite small. I was thinking of using a throttle body from the Holden 3.8's as they use the same TPS that I have already set up. Would it be too large or would it be ok to use a slightly larger throttle than the rest of the intake system? Cheers

Ah that would explain it, why did you get it from the states? Not available here? lol I didnt actually read the post, for some reason I thought it was the o/p who posted that pic haha.

That looks as though the rocker cover has been left open for some time at one point in it's life.... See if you can source less corrosive ones from a wreck.

Keep in mind that not all gearboxes have the same clutch sizes. Match the flywheel/clutch combo that goes with the gearbox, not the motor.

Oh god..... Please go to a race track before making that statement... Or at least tell me that you have already been many times.

It's really hard to put a price on something like this as it's what people are willing to pay and what it's really worth that are different. I have a figure of $3,000 in my head but that is just starters, could be worth a little bit more if it is in top notch condition. Just as a reference you can pick one up with minor rust, average interior and fair motor for about $1000 - $1500. So in the end it really comes down to if you can find a buyer that is willing to pay the price for such a fine example of a KE55. I'm sure some one else might be able to put you in the right direction. Maybe even look at redbook. Linky! http://www.redbook.com.au/used-cars/details.aspx?R=102931&__Qpb=1&Cr=3&__Ns=p_Make_String|0||p_ClassificationType_String|0||p_Family_String|0||p_Year_String|1||p_SequenceNum_Int32|0&__N=2994%204294942755%204294842757%204294965455&silo=1300&seot=1&__Nne=15&trecs=10&__sid=1316B957BC85

I have found counter steering allot more effective in that situation as well as using the accelerator but never kicking the clutch! You want to gain traction not loose it! I learnt that on the track in my AE82, in the wet and surprisingly in the dry as well. Had put in my coil overs with an initial setup of -2.5 degree camber all round 6kg front 4kg rear and dampening set in the middle of the range (didn't have the specs so just set it there to see). Ended up over steering on tight sweepers! Was definitely an interesting change from understeer to oversteer. Still see no need for clutch kicking! +1 on converting to RWD

WGMG: What The Fast and the Furious has done in common misconseptions and general automotive stupidity. It just happens to be more apparent during school holidays.

And then with half the money you could have bought a 4AGE! Seriously you could pick one up for less than a grand and have more power than a 5 psi 4AFC.

I'm about to have another coffee in 30 mins. Anyone care to join? It's a Harris dark roast, percolated.

lol dropping the clutch around a corner?? To stop the rear end from slipping out on a naturally understeering car? This is pure gold.... Sounds to me that you have been constantly over revving the engine. Doesn't surprise me that your previous engine seized as they generally seize from oil starvation. Which is generally caused by excessive revving blowing out oil seals. There is no need to be dropping the clutch around a corner unless you would like bits of tree decorating your car. You should know what speed the corner can be taken at and feather the throttle around the corner. It really sounds like you don't care about your car or motor so I wouldn't be surprised if you blow this one as well.

Hehe... Funny you say Haltech. I actually have an E6 that's going on my 5k. If you look on ebay there is an E6A and E6X for sale around the $600 mark.

School holidays remember.... Anyway, it happens. All I know is that replacing the clutch on a FWD sucks hard.

Is it safe having the fuel pump sitting in the engine bay??? Wouldn't want it to spring a leak mid drive!