Twinky

Looks like the normal unit to me.

I think that would be the capacity with a trailer that has brakes. A KE70 wouldn't weigh too mutch more than a tonne would it? There are two ratings to look at. Un-Braked and braked trailers.

Your car would have a manual which would state the towing capacity of the vehicle. If it did not come out with a tow rating then you are not allowed to tow with it. Generally most cars do have a rating and for a KE70 it would be quite low. A tinny should be fine especially if the trailer is very light. I guess the angle of the boat ramp would say how the old rolla would pull the tinny out. I don't see a huge problem with it but your clutch might!

You have to make sure that the exhaust hangs freely and does not rub on any part of the body/drivetrain. Then use the original rubber hanging mounts, if they are not used then I would not be surprised that it is rattling. Yes it is quite hard to do as I have done a custom exhaust myself, I am in the proccess of modding it to fit better. I wouldn't advise on uder diff exhausts as you could ripp off the exhaust if the wheel drops too mutch and there isn't alot of clearance to do it anyway. Are you able to mod the system yourself? If not you should learn! It really isn't that hard to do with a hacksaw and welder. A cutoff saw and gas Mig help even better :)

Can you get a piston stop tool for a 5k or do you use some custom jigg? When I had the motor apart the motor was put at visual tdc (with the head off)and the timing mark on the pulley matched up to the timing marks on the cover so we assumed everything was correct. The previous owners did not have the motor running but they bought the motor from a running van. After the motor was taken out it was sitting in a workshop for about 9 months. When I got the motor i was able to freely turn the motor by hand. The water pump and fuel pump looked pretty bad but I was able to use 4k gear which ran perfectly. I stripped the engine and looked down the bores and at the crank, oil pickup and the motor looked pretty fresh on the inside, there was even minimal carbon buildup on the pistons, rocker gear was perfect. When I put the motor back together it started first time and ran absolutely perfect. It was quiet and pulled hard, only since I changed the exhaust I have been having these problems. I can safely say that the exhaust and manifolds are leak free from all the repair work I have been doing. On that note I have just observed a split secion of piping where the brake booster hose connects to the manifold. The split is right on the tip of the hose but I will disconnect and cover the hose and see what it does. Hopefully I get this sorted soon, it's most likely going to be the simplest thing as it always turns out to be.

Will do when I get home. Everything is still from the original motor although I can't say it's original because previous owners could have changed anything. The only difference is the electronic dizzy, carburettor and extra pulley. All of which have been checked and re checked. All signs are tending to point towards an air leak. No smoke comes out of the exhaust at full/light/stab throttle, it literally sounds like a vac port has been unplugged but everything is connected. More investigating when I get home.

I don't know if being a tooth out would make too mutch of a diference as the timing can be changed to suit. It's sitting at 8 degrees now and still idling like crap. I'll have a play anyway as anything really helps. I'm thinking air leak too but not sure from where.. I did new manifold gaskets but that didnt clear the problem. Cheers

In this one it almost looks like the engine is operating normally, on light throttle the vac slightly increases then drops at high rpm, then getting max vaccume when the throttle is closed. I thought maybe worn rings or leaky valves but the compression test seems to be fine... I'm going to replace the plugs on monday and see if I get any results. Whilst on that topic what gap should I run with electronic dizzy? Any experts here?

Well I've done some tests. Firstly the compression test. Am I doing it correctly? Dizzy disconnected, turned the motor over untill the highest compression reading was seen. (150psi) This was the same for each cylinder. Here are two videos of the motor running looking at a vac guage. In this one you can see the car idling and having an irratic reading swaying around 4-5 inches on the dial. Then I give it light throttle, the vaccume increases, I then let go of the throttle and give it a quick stab. You can see that it looses quite a bit of vaccume when it comes back to trying to idle, almost stalling and then continues on it's irratic idle. NEXT POST CONTINUED

It hasn't been shaved since I have owned it, I'll put my vac guage on the manifold and I'll see if it is the valves that are stuffed.

Haven't checked the clearances as it is hydro so I haven't bothered with that. Might see if I can stick a feeler guage in there but I think they are always in contact.

U unplug the lead and start the motor, should it just be cranking instead of actually running? As is should i disconnect the coil alltogether?

Hi all, As with the cooling issue thread I started a little while back I would also like to start an engine problem thread. I will start off. Engine problem: Idle is rough and jumpy I guess I will start off with my main question. Can an exhaust be too small for the engine to run smoothly??? The story behind my problem: I initially had a 2" system that I built myself and was running in the car for quite some time. Everything was good. Eventually I did a 5k + 5 speed conversion + electronic dizzy and everything went well. A couple of months down the track I decided that I wanted to do a change in the exhaust so I replaced my 2" system back to the original 4k exhaust system. This is where my problems started. My first issue was that my radiator was being pressurised, that was fixed. Then I had exhaust leaks everywhere and eventually nutted them all out. The centre two bolts holding the manifolds striped the thread in the head so as that there was no tension there, fixed that this morning by inserting helicoils. Every single god damn gasket has been replaced, carby is tuned great and there are absolutely no leaks anywhere (oil/air/water). I am now left with an idle issue. I can not get the motor to run smooth like it did with the 2" system in place. I have done checks all over the engine and have come to no conclusions. Cylinder PSI: (give or take 2psi as the reading incriments are in 10's 1 90 2 90 3 90 4 90 When I was doing the measurements the needle seemed to be jumping up and down between 110 and 80 psi whilst the engine was running, then after turning the engine off it sat at 90. Is the meter faulty?? Or am I doing it wrong? Seem a bit low?? These were the same readings back when I got the 5k and had the motor purring like a kitteh. I had a bent rod and have sorted that issue for the time being untill I can get another set. One thing that puzzles me is that I can unplug any random cylinder and the engine does not change tempo, rpm, roughness, it even seems to run slightly smoother. I have gotten tired from beating my head against the wall trying to figure this out myself. Any help would greatly be appreciated. @ altezzaclub: as in the pm convo we had, I feel as though my car want's to cause maximum misery to my life. I nutt out one problem only to be challenged by the next contender. Cheers! Alex

Would a stronger vacc source do anything worth while? I recently tried using one of those un used ports on the intake manifold, the idle ended up sitting around 15 degrees whilst the original carb source sat at 10 degrees. I have no rpm meter so I can't make a curve as to see any benifits/downfalls in using the source.

I'll double check but I think you are right Evan. I know that the KE70 5 speed sits 90 mills back and that does not really look it.

from a Ke70 aswell

I think the main problem here was the lack of info from what he really wanted from his car. From what I have read it seems as though he want to keep it street legal. unfortunately street legal KE30 V8 will cost you over 30k to build and get past the pits + engineering costs. This work MUST include rail reinforcement plus everything else, if you want it street legal........ What you should do is find out the limits of modifications you can do to your car and go from there. You cannot setup a KE30 with a heavy ass V8 in the front and be street legal as well as handle well. Most of the V8 corollas that do handle well have had the engine repositioned back further to get the wheight balance as best as they can behind the front wheels, requiring the firewall to be cut. Meaning it's not street legal. So you can and can't do this mod, illegaly you could drive it on the road but that is up to you. What is going to be the contributing factor in this discution is how fat is your wallet??? That is the endgame. If you don't have the funds and from what I have read you do not have the skill I would advise on NOT attempting this. This is a very big leap for someone who has not attempted this type of thing before. Modifying your car is addictive and costly. But what kills you is dreaming, you are only looking at the finished product when you dream up something. I bet you are already seeing yourself in a loud rumbly fully sick rolla blasting past all the falcodores, getting stange looks from bystanders when cruizing down the strip only they are not fixtated on the symphony of a V8 with ITB's but the two naked men sitting in the back seat covered in grease. But guess what, it aint gonna happen anytime soon and that's the part you need to understand. Even the smallest conversions cost alot of time and a decent amount of money. I would strongly recomend doing a simple conversion to your engine so that you get a feel for what it's going to be like doing a monster conversion like a V8. Change your motor to a 5k, it bolts straight in and then mate up a 5 speed. It is by far the easiest engine swap, for me this would take a day to do but for a newbie it might take alot longer. At least it could give you a taste for the pains of the future, after all getting the engine in is one thing. Starting it and tuning is a whole other level. There is a reason most people stick to turbos. They are easier, cheaper power gains, easily sourced and they are a ton lighter! Meaning you can handle the car better. I really think you need to seriously do some thinking before even asking about dumping a dirty big V8 in your engine bay.

call a motor dealer and find out!

secondary jets could be too small. Does it actually slow down or splutter? If you feel the loss of accelaration then the jet could be running too lean.

The part where you have to put on a flame proof suit?

YES!!! You can never stop young people from doing dangerous things but if you can change the attitude of drivers we will see less of this labelling of hoons and more driver education programs. I too calmed down alot on the roads after experiencing the thrill of race track driving and now can't wait for my next stint! The road just does not look as fun to me anymore and can not compare the fun and adrenalin rush as racing with your budds toe to toe. Those stinky hondas :laff:

The main causes of crashes are due to innatention and incorrectly assuming ones skill as a driver. Most of the deaths you hear about on the news is some elderly couple, someone who fell asleep at the wheel, or someone who lost concentration (on the phone, changing radio) and %90 of fatalities are on country roads. The fatalities you hear about in city areas are cashed up daddys boys with stuipidly powered falcodores/skylineboats and only just on their p plates. The reason P platers crash so often is because they have never been put into a situation where the car is out of controll so when that time comes around they react in the wrong way and panic. Usually a good scare is enough to change ones driving habbits. I got my scare when I realised that even the best drivers can get it wrong too. Two dicknobs left thier cars in the middle of the road around a blind corner on a wet road, my dad came around the corner and he had nowhere to go. Though through his experience he managed to avoid both cars (to this day I still don't know how he did it soo well, anyone would have just plowed into them). Unfortunately the road had a hill right up against the road and the towbar cliped sending the car into a roll, good thing he had already slowed down to 30kmph and it just gently rested on the roof. That was enough for me to understand that you are never totally in controll of what happens. My proving grounds were in the new industrial areas of Lonsdale where there were just roads and vacant industrial land. Had a clear 4 lane quater mile stretch with a loop back around at the end. This was also just one street too, one entrance/exit. This is where we practiced our car controll with friends, we got to the stage of coming around a corner and our mates would pull the handbrake at random intervalls and we would have to correct the slide or try to get out. Best thing I have ever done. I am happy to say that I have never crashed my car and been in situations where it could have ended with a bingle. The reason I have never been in a crash is because I pay extra attention on the road and make split second decisions, if there is space to merge i will instantly merge is safe. I don't sit there with my indicatior beaming for minutes stressing out other drivers, at the same time not being pushy. If someone want;s to merge into my lane I actually SLOW THE f@$k DOWN! unlike most Adelaide drivers who see it as MY SPOT!! And accelarate infront of you so as not to let you in. This is why I love melbourne/sydney drivers as they let you merge in. At any one time I could tell you the position of every car around me, who is a timid driver and the obvious dickhead driver, who is speeding, who is going granny slow and ALWAYS look for an exit for those prickly moments. Now you can't always have an exit point in side by side bumper to bumper traffic but I find that that is actually the safet kind of traffic as no one can speed or swerve in and out of lanes like the typical falcodore driver from the northern reaches of Adelaide. Some people would say that saying that there is such thing as a safe hoon is bullcrap but I definately think that there is. It comes through paying thorough attention on the road and sticking to your skill limits. I am by no means a slow driver but I consider myself a safe driver because of my behaviour on the road, that I am courteous to other drivers and pick my "hooning" to roads that I could drive blindfolded. I never speed around blind spots, I actually slow down for them below the speed limit (reason why I am horribly slow at driving on norton summit road). I have put myself into dangerous situations along "cruises" where I have sped around blond corners and am in no hurry to do it again. I am yet to go on a cruise where no one has done something stuipid. If any Adelaideian says that there is no place to relieve your built up hoon pressure then I will bitch slap you to the face. There is plenty of shit happening. Motorkhanas, Drift prac days at tailem bend and for f@$k sake there is a whole day of driving at Mallala race track for $135 (over 6 sessions 15 mins each and thats a slow day). There is plenty of opportunities here in adelaide for those who actually look. I think that this drag strip proposal at Gilmond will be a blight to the suburbs. Has anyone ever been to the drags at Adelaide international??? Then you would know that drags still happen even hours after the event closes. the reason why tracks are far away from suburbia is because it splits apart the dangerous drivers from the motoring enthusiasts. People who say that they have no where to go are most of the time just bullshitting excuses so that they can continue to put lives at risk on the roads. So, for those who could not be bothered reading my rant. Pay attention, it will save you life like it has mine as well as saving repair costs from people who drive straight at you when they have a red light and you have a green arrow :glare: (yes I did avoid the blonde behind the wheel of that one). Let people merge! It will cost you 3 f@$king seconds of your total trip. End rant? I think not, I just can't be bothered typing anymore.......

Great that you got this sorted now! Funny how it is the things you don't expect (exhaust leak).

Actually you wouldn't know what size those webbers are? Do you have any engine mods apart from that? Do you have information on jet sizes, venturi sizes? Was it running good before or has this only just happened? If your engine is bog stock those webbers might flow a little too mutch for the engine. In which case the motor would be running too rich at idle and hence not want to idle properly. Most people find it difficult just to tune the 32/36 DGV because the carb was designed for 100hp and up motors. The 4k falls quite short of that mark and you have twin webers instead of the troublesome 32/36. In saying that I have seen the twin dcoe webers on a 4k run quite well but still quite boggy down low. This is not quite the case for every weber setup but it does seem to be a common problem of webbers not idling right with the stock 4k.

By the sounds of it it could be a couple of things that are wrong. Because of the age of our motors getting the engine to run on factory specs can be quite tricky. But it can be set up pretty damn close! Things to check first!! Are all the vac hoses connected, not leaking? Any leaks at the carby mount? A timing light is a must have inexpensive item and they only cost around the $60 mark for something decent. If you don't have one you get one! I use the one that has an inductive pickup clamp (ease of use) that goes over cylinder No.1. If I have just pulled apart my motor and put it back together this is the way I get it back into spec. Firstly get the motor running and get it to stay on idle, doesn't matter if it is on fast idle. (in your case this might be some what of a challenge). Now if this is a timing issue then the next bit should fix the idle issue. (if you don't have a timing light) Loosen the screw on the distributor and turn it in any direction by a couple of degrees (nothing dramatic), start the car. Does it run worse or better?? If worse then turn it in the opposite direction untill you can get the car to constantly idle. This is where a timing light comes in handy! I have found that at 800 - 900rpm 10deg runs quite good. Now I wouldn't know about tuning the webbers but this is how I do it with the Aisan carby and would somewhat be applicable to the webbers. If the car will still not idle, turn the throttle screw in and see if it will idle under throttle. If it does idle under throttle then it could be that the idle circuit is not getting enough fuel, turn the miture screw a couple of turns counter clockwise. Then start unscrewing the throttle screw untill the motor starts to idle rough and then back it off till it runs smooth. If the idle is still too fast then the idle circuit in the carby is in fact, f@$ked.