Twinky

I have taken it off the clutch fork but it is still stuck in the hole of the gearbox, does the very end of the cable disconnect?? The cable does wriggle around but there is no way for it to come loose of the gearbox bellhousing. I'll try giving a bit more of a yank tomorrow and see if that assembly at the end of the cable comes off. Cheers guys

Hi guys, I got home early today and thought I might be able to knock over a gearbox replacement. But ofcourse I was wrong and am up to the part of pulling the box out and disconnecting the clutch cable. My first question is, how the hell does the cable disconnect from the gearbox bellhousing? Pelase don't tell me that i have to disconnect it from the pedal and feed it back through. Who ever did the design for the clutch should be shot.... repeatedly. Second question, How do you guys go about replacing the gearbox? I was told it can be done with the motor still on it's mounts but am finding it quite difficult. Maybe it's because I am doing it by myself or maybe because I am a noob. My process so far: Disconnect shifter Drain oil Disconnect tailshaft (biggest pain in the arse) Disconnect spedo, reverse sensor Undo bolts (reletavely painfull) Undo clutch cable to find that it is stuck through a f###ing gearbox hole, it is at this point that I have finished for today.

Well finally the wheel nuts arrived, fits just like a glove although the offset is not quite right and probably need to sit a little more in. Some spacers might fix that :). I did end up trying the old twink nuts and yep they did work, they were a tad undersize though, only about 2mm though. I just bought a ke70 5 speed so that will be going in some time soon. I am going to start making up the intake for the bike carbies aswell as I have bought the intake flanges from kemotorsport. I just received a quote from Camtech and I have decided to go with the CT003 for the 5k. What could be a common cause for a 4k to eat oil? Could the rings be slightly worn out and passing a tiny amount of oil through? Basically the exhaust is not really billowing out smoke but you can smell it very well. Could it be something else?

lol..... Even after all this commotion you dare ask this question???? Even when the link to HP figures was posted??? :no2: Depending on the block you have it varies from 60 - 70 - 80 HP but I don't know what blacks are a common or rare block so I would have to say that a 3K has 73 (stated) HP. I can agree that the search function is not the best tool for questions which are not covered as mutch. I typed in 5K hp in the search tool bar and there was not alot of info. I myself did not even know about the FAQ section for about a year till someone pointed it out to me. But when it comes to questions like, what engines fit into my XXXX corolla, that's when someone deserves a flaming. I think that new members can be excused for these questions sometimes as they are sometimes new to even being on a forum. Maybe something like a rollaclub introduction should be mandatory for new members, something like a guide to navigate them to the faq section, common questions etc. They should also not be able to post until they have done the tour. I don't know how hard that would be to do but it is an idea. Maybe even a first page to look at and confirm that it was read.

A good service is just about all you can do really. N/A motors are very expensive to get big hp gains from small mods. Or at least even noticable gains. The only reason new plugs will give you any horsepower at all is because they are faulty to begin with, so that gain in horsepower is just the lost horsepower from failed plugs. If you want a noticable gain, get a mild camshaft upgrade. If any exist...... A pod filter will increase response on throttle and a bit better breathing, but only if the standard air box is restrictive. Most of the time your best upgrade will be to slide in a new K&N panel filter into the air box. As most new cars have CAI anyway, it just looks wierd that's all. In all, if it is your daily and you don't want anything extreme, just keep it up on it's servicing and leave it at that. Get a project car.

These guys would have had to have been in that shed before to know that there was something worth stealing. Anyone suspiciuos seen scoping the place? Might pay to install cameras in the store.

Hey guys, since being on the topic of interest for me and so that I don't have to start a new topic, I'd like to ask a few questions. So I have a 5K sitting on an engine stand at home and was thinking about getting a cam grind for it. I would be after something that is comfortably streetable yet still have that aggressive sound, verging on sounding like a rotary. Could anyone recommend a gring for a 5k? Now if it was a 4k I would not even have bothered posting here as they are simple to do and plenty of info floating about. I am just unsure about the hydro part of the 5k. When I take to camshaft out from the 5k are the hydro lifters going to drop? do they need adjusting after?? I think I would be going with Crow Cams as they were the only ones to respond to my e-mails last time and were very helpful. Cheers guys!

By the sounds of it this guy didn't go to school

lol rocket gear...... Are you going into space? haha! I think you meant rocker gear. Yeah Definately your fault on this one I am afraid, unless they specifically mentioned to you that you should just be able to start the motor. You should have just tried turning it by hand. Most of the time you don't even need to use a spanner or anything, just turn the fan by hand (If you have that type of setup)and that way you can't over torque and bend anything. Remember, never jump the gun and just turn things on. Always pays just to check everything out first.

Yeah it's too late now, but I think the thickness of the shaft would bo too thin from those alloys. Wouldn't it go on a bit loose? I've ordered and payed for a set now anyway but there is nothing wrong with some shiny new wheel nuts! Should be coming in next week, can't wait to put them on. Cheers anyway

I can second that, I have both heads taken apart. The 4k has a shite load more combustion chamber in the head. Hmmmm, so i have a spare 4k with a spare 5k head.... Grenade motor anyone?

Pictures as promised. The seats are a little dirty but should come up nice once they get a proper clean. Still mutch better than the dog chewed look of the old ones. Looks quite nice with the twinky steering wheel and gear knob. Now I just have to find a k50 to make use of that 5 speed knob. This is the spare head with blue valve springs. The lovely new wheels to be put on And lastly my new toy 5k goodness!!

lol why? Because he obviously wants to be a fully sick dorifto hero. I will be watching out for smashed stoby poles around adelaide, maybe even a fence or two. lol. No but seriously what are your intentions??

Oh and one more thing, I got a spare 5k head with the motor and it has the prominent ridges on spark plugs 1 & 4. I'm guessing that it was from a dished piston series engine. Also the valve springs are blue in color, are these the holden spring mod thing that people do?? I'll get some pics up soon.

Well It's been a little while since anything has happened but the old girl has now become the pride and joy money pit. Just yesterday I picked up a 5k and it is now awaiting a freshening up before it goes in. The other day I went out to u-pull it at Elizabeth and was fortunate enough to stumble upon the only ke55/30 in the lot. It was even the same colour scheme as mine so away I went picking off some bits and pieces that I needed. The thing I hate about u pull it is the arseholes that rip shit off without regard as to who might want other bits, such as the chrome trimmings, some f@$kwit bent one in half, the one that I wanted. My old fart only had the cloth trim seats, the car at u pull it had the vynil seats but ofcourse, probably the same f@$kwit, dumped some drum brakes and tyres on them and scratched/messed up the trim. But luckily for me it wasn't too bad, better than the dogg eaten rear seats that came with my car. The surprising thing was that the steering wheel was left in there, it was a twincam steering wheel! Awesome. I have to say that it fits really well and it is actually comfortable to drive now. I am not a short person so getting in and out of a 55 is a right pain in the arse as the original steering wheel sits too low and my legs hit it. The twincam wheel actually sits a bit further out so my legs now clear it! The only downer about it is that the indicator switches can't be reached without taking my hand off the steering wheen, which i don't mind doing. But the wheel gives you a better sense of controll and stability, maybe because its a little thicker and heavier. Also the twincam gearknob fits on the shaft, looks a million bucks. On another story I have aquired a set of rims that originally come off the Triumph models sutch as the stag and 2.5 PI, TC series. This is the image link to the exact rims http://classic-car.y2u.co.uk/Photo_caq/Triumph_Stag_Sports_Car_1975.jpg The offset is okay and the stud pattern is right at 4x114.5 but the only negative is that the wheel nuts are not common. They are and imperial thread for one and the stem + washer are mutch thicker. So I'm getting some machined and plated at $10.60 per nut which is pretty cheap but then again I need 16 nuts. It still ends up cheaper than buying new tyres as the rims come with fresh rubber and they didn't cost me a cent because I pillaged them from my father in laws spare parts car. Next to come will be to lower it, I was thinking of adding more leafs to the stack rather than an axle tramping lowering block. If that does not seem feasable I might give industrial springs a ring and see if i can get a lowering set made. For the fron I have heard that people chop down falcon springs, is this correct? Seems a little dodgey to me as the spring would foul on the strut top, so it might be another industrial springs job. One thing that I have learnt with the 4k is that you shouldn't follow factory specs when it comes to the rocker/valve clearances. When I initially set everything to factory spec the enine did run well but had that definitive sound of the valves clanging. I traced that down to the exhaust valves, because factory specs says they should have more clearance for thermal expansion. Anyhow I set them all to what the intake valve clearances should be but the motor still had a faint clanging that could still be heard from inside the cabin. So I had a talk with a toyota mechanic and he said to just set them all to 2 thou, which is a bit thinner than factory specs on the intake valve. Still had a tiny clang so I just set them all to 1 thou and the engine runs with no noise! Another problem that I have come across is that my 4k has started to eat some oil, and i mean it gets hungry. You can smell it in the exhaust. Would this bee a sighn of worn rings? I have been giving the engine a bit more stick since I got it running properly, I can't say how high in the rpm range I flog it because I have no guage. Some oil has come out of the spark plug seals so i think maybe a little too mutch poke has been applied. Anyhow the motor still runs as good as when I fixed it. One odd thing is that it has started to sound like a rotary when it is warming up on choke. At first it runns smooth and then about 30 seconds later it starts to go brup brup brup brup like an off it's tits rotary but black smoke comes out the exhaust. I push the choke back in and then it runs right again and no more smoke or lumpy idle. Could this be that the carby is running rich? Should I play with the idle screw when it starts to brup brup? So anyhows I will be re spraying the car in it's original colour just to freshen up the look. I'm thinking of taking of the stupid plactic strips down the sides and doing some sort of suttle black pinstripes but I'm unsure of where to do it, just to break up the look. More updates will be coming as things happen. Pics soon when my internets start working properly on the 7th. cheers

Well firstly a question needs to be answered. You say you have a silvertop, are you running an after market computer? blacktop computer? Usually it does not matter where you put the IAT sensor, it will work even if you put it just in front of the intake. As long as where you put it is close to the temp that the engine is sucking in it should be fine. Funny though, I don't remember my silvertop having an external IAT so I guess you are running either an aftermarket computer of blacktop gear.

I second the oxodising of an abnormal chemical in the system. I usually see this stuff build up on aluminium when left in the weather (same stuff, white powdery substance). I would suspect the protagonist here is a chemical that you are adding, especially saying that it is a valve saver. If you can, find the packet of the stuff and read the contents. Post the chemical make up here if you can. I would say that is %100 the extra chemicals fault. At this point i would steer clear of the valve saver. A chemical test done for a private customer might get a little pricey. If your spark plugs are not built up with the same white powdery substance then it is the extra substance.

Haha! That is sooooo true

Yeah I saw him at the Gawler swap meet selling the usual parts

Aww god here it comes again. Firstly for our benefit, what kind of budget do you have? Blacktop, Silvertop 20v?? The first mods you would want to do to a 20 valve is not so mutch the motor itself but other bits around it. Firstly get an exhaust done, something like 2.5 inch will do fine, with a high flow cat and sports muffler (sound sooooo mutch better than cannons). This would cost you roughly $600, maybe more maybe less depending where you get it done. If you can not afford something like this forget modding the 20v and the best you can do is just keep the motor fresh and treat it good. When talking about modding an engine, especially when it is an N/A motor it is all about camshafts. For 20 valve motors they are not cheap (average prive about $800 a set) and then you have to install them. Then you would think about increasing the compression ratio as well as balancing the crank and getting forged conrods to handle regular high rpm hits. High comp pistons = $600 Engine balance = $200 - $500 (guesstimate, if you pull the motor apart yourself and give hime the required parts it would be the cheaper) Someone might be able to confirm a price on balancing a 20 valve Rods = $??? Haven't personally even seen these Lightened flywheel = $??? I got mine for free with my 20v when I bought it. As you can see it is going to cost a bundle, but it all depends on what you want from the motor. As alot of people say, just get the thing running A1 and then think about going further.

I showed an r34 driver that his pov pack edition, big exhuast and worst of all NON TURBO is slow :jamie: compared to my little old twink. Could tell he was an ex-falcodore driver as when I backed off at what I thought was fast enough speed, he kept powering on. Maybe he was unhappy that an old piece of shit beat him? Thats what puts a smile on my face. Its never about the money spent, anyone that even bothers to count what they have spent is just kidding themselves and is here for all the wrong reasons. If you are worried about the cost that goes into cars just catch a freaking bus. Alot of people say "why would you buy an old piece of shit like that? its going to cost you double what you bought it for to fix it?" and to that I respond, "so how mutch longer you still going to be in debt for that $30,000 car loan? I own my car and it only cost 1/10th of what you payed ;)".

Used oil that you steal from the recyclers?

lol..................... 12k rpm................... I can't say I have heard of a road going engine (apart from a motorbike engine) that can safely see an rpm like that. Seriously, it would cost a shitload of money to get an engine to that stage. Considering you can buy a used race engine for no less than 15k that safely revs in the 10krpm range. Maybe the engine blew because he reved it that high? 230hp sounds a bit low for 12krpm with a supercharger. I sense a whiff of untruths. Anyway, what are you planning to do with the engine? back to an N/A 20v or a forced induction setup?? What kind of budget do you have? Seeing that it has 20v pistons already in there it might pay to see what compression ratio they have to determine if they are suitable for either an N/A of F/I build.

It would explain why the motor went bang, a supercharger hanging off a N/A engine.

lol, that statement in here is just asking for a flaming