Twinky

I'm not saying that it is a silly mistake but the need to do it is not warranted, I just don't see the need to do it. Why go back a step in technology? Tip: If you actually showed how you did it it would be more usefull. As in a bit more detail in the process and pictures to follow it up. If you take a look at some of the guides on here you will see that they contain more detail so that someone with limited knowledge would be able to follow it.

On my 5k I have the brown wire going to the earth side of the coil, the black/white wire goes to the resistor side.

But hydro lifters are fine..... Mine doesn't ever rattle... Never need to adjust them either.... Just for my own benifit why do people change to solid lifters if they aren't going to rev past 9000rpm?

During the storms in Adelaide I was coming home from work and was about to cross the creek just down the road from my house and came across this. The water level was actually up to the roof before I got there. As I was walking by I heard the driver of the car (obviously a woman) say "when I entered the stream it didn't look that deap" lol......... This is the highest water level I have ever seen here in 9 years. The force of the water even bent the railings. But the most horrific thing to greet me as I got home was this. She is one of those "energetic" greeters

She lives! Motor runs good and strong, sussed a small leak from the oil filter mount and a slight coolant leak from the lower heater hose and now runs perfect! It is a definate improvement over the 4k and you can feel that it has more torque down low. You can even launch from second gear! It runs alot smoother and starts easier, just an overall better motor. Thanks to John from KeMotorsport with great parts and quality advice! (yes I can see that the hose for the manifold breather is loose, fixed it after I noticed a rough idle) Now to sort out the booooooost!

Updates! My friend and I managed to pull the 4k out and replace it with the 5k! woot! Quite alot of pain and spilt gearbox oil but in the end it is finally in there!! Looks quite nice just sitting there. But with great success comes great failure. I borked the electronic distributor.... So I'll just have to fork out for a replacement, no way in hell I'm going back to points type ignition.. And the old trusty 4k! Runs good, might sell it, might not. So tomorrow I'll see if I can pick one up and maybe I'll visit u-pull it and see if I can find some pulleys for the supercharger! Hope everyone had a good christmas! I know I did!

Cheers guys!Yes the paint is heat proof but only to 288C so the intake manifold might cop a beating from the heat radiating and dissipating from the exhaust manifold. I'm looking forward to some progress myself, I'm going to get the motor running in the car before I hook up the charger. My speedo is actually out a little, funny thing is I had the dash apart before and forgot to reset the thing... oops. I'll probably be running around the 6-7psi mark to begin with and see how the motor reacts. In the future I'd like to de-compress the motor a little and run 12 psi if the charger can handle it. I need to do a little calculation and see what rpm the charger needs to spin at to do that sort of boost. At 10psi @ 6500 engine rpm the AMR500 needs to spin at 13,000rpm (AMR has a 16000rpm Max) Using a 2:1 ratio. I will probably run a ratio more like 1.75:1, but it all depends on what pulleys I can find at the scrap yard.

Yay an update! It means I have actually done some work! I was recently banned from doing any work on the motor a month out from my wedding. Now that is all over with it is now time to work on the motor again :). I recently sourced a 5 speed from my favourite person (KeMotorsport). Unfortunately the 5 speed was from a ke70 so the shifter sits back about 90mm requiring a hole to be cut in the tunnel. All I did was get some tin snips and expand the hole down untill the shifter is clear, then covering up the remainder of the hole with whatever. The problem with this is that the original gear boot does not fit. So I thought why not make one myself to fit??? So I got some vynil material, using the original boot I was able to copy the shape of the boot by pulling it apart and drawing a stencil. Then I cut out the stencil leaving plenty of room for stiching. Then you simply pester your mother to sow it up for you because you have the sowing skill equivalent to that of a hamster. And hey presto it is done! In the car (with my sterio finally installed :)) I plan to drill a series of holes around the plastic and sew the gearboot on as the clips I used to originally retain the boot continually fell off. I have also been beavering away on the 5k Wait... what the hell is that metal bracket thing doing there??? Maybe it has something to do with this? So yes I have finally made up my mind on what I want to do with the thing. I have realised that by going down the FI route it will end up cheaper and go faster than an NA setup. I will post up pics and updates on how I get the charger to run with the standard carby and how I set it up. Cheers!

April is still 4 months away dude

A good glue option could also be araldite, Use the 5 min araldite and it can have a bit of flex but plenty of grip.

You can still use the standard dizzy and just get a fuel only computer. If you want spark controll, Jaycar do a kit that you can adjust the timing, dwell etc with points type ignition. All you need to make it an efi is an map/afm sensor, oxy sensor and TPS. If you want more accuracy you can rig up a CAS.

Cool, thanks for the advice. I just remember someone on here doing it and wondered if it had any benefits.

Actually while we are on this topic, I heard of people using some grade of araldite or aviation goup on the head gasket for a bit more of a firmer seal. What grade/goup would be used?

Mid port head? Pics?

Yes it is, DBA 708. Don't know of any 2 pots to suite tho. Don't need to go that far if it is just a daily driver. I used EBC greenstuff pads with AE93 rotors on the race track with great results.

Thought I might aswell chuck this in here aswell so it does not get lost. It's my DIY exhaust upgrade for a grand total of $50 at the end of it. (tubes + cannon) http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/43755-diy-exhaust-upgrade/ What it sounds like. I might take another vid from a bit further away to get better sound quality. Here is a simple pod filter mod. Just use a flat front type of pod filter, drill a hole in the middle for the threaded bolt to go through and your away. Don't know about any power increase but it sounds nice, well at least I think it does.

There is a place called Fours n More that do some custom builds and what not. They do awesome work and regularly do work for autosalon. Back when I had my twincam I always used to send it to him for work. If you supply him with all the parts (which you can get from KeMotorsport) then he should be able to slap it all together and dyno tune it. Mind you it won't be cheap because of labour. I'm sorta estimating around the $1500 mark to build and tune, thats an under estimation too. So let's say you spend $500 on parts (charger, plumbing, flanges, belt, mount) then add costs of a build. You could almost buy an already charged car for that money. This is why most of the guys here do the work themselves, because it is cheap and easy. My best advice is to do exactly what I am doing, buy an engine, work it in your spare time and then slot it in when it is finished. You can do the work yourself, it is that easy to do. If you are patient enough I am starting my AMR500 5k build early next year. Got a wedding and honeymoon at the end of the year so things have been slow lately. My build: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/41380-twinkys-old-fart/

Probably best you don't bother with it then. Just buy someone elses complete project car. If you don't have the time and funds I doubt you will get what you want in the end game.

Firstly what budget do you have?

Get AE93 SX series 2 discs, if you can find the calipers use them but you can retain your original ones. Then get some decent pads around the $150 dollar mark. EDIT: If you do retain your original calipers you will have to sand the pad down a bit. To do that you must find a rough & PERFECT flat surface sutch as a large paver, then srub the pad down a tad by doing figurre 8's. You must apply even pressure to wear the pad evenly. If you are not game to do this then forget it.

If you are in the northern suburbs just visit u pull it, gank some lifters if there are any in good nick. I would doubt too many people have them spare.

Doing a little engine prep. Going for the rising sun emblem. Need to clear the overspray when it dries enough and do the circle. Other than that progress is low as usual. Apart from that I have gotten a hold of a KE30 front grille and painted it gloss black. I prefer the look to the original KE55 grille. After quite alot of stuffing about I have decided to go down the supercharger route as in the end it will cost the same amount to do a carbie + cam build. I was thinking of running the AMR500 at 5psi to begin with. Then maybe decompress the engine and try for the 10psi mark. All in good time.

The mount is in the right place but the type of mount is different. All I have to do is to re drill some holes and use the ke70 gearbox spacer thingo with the ke55 gearbox crossmember.

Farkin finally the thing is in and runs great. I had to take the clutch cable off from the pedal and thread it back through the bellhousing. Oh the car is a KE55 4K. Putting the box back in was actually easier than getting the f###er out because I compensated for the problems encountered while taking it out. The tailshaft was officially the hardest part to take out because there is no room for a socket head. Anyhows It is in and I am loving it. Oh and the box is a KE70 5 speed. Here is all the room I had I used the trolley jack to manouver the box around, made life 100x easier. Now I just have to make up a plate to go over the hole from the 4 speed because the 5 speed shifter sits 90mm further back.

What a shitty design really..... Anyhows I will be doing it all tomorrow as I have run out of time to do anything today. I was thinking that I would have to end up threading it from the pedal.