Twinky

Actually I just realized that I'll be able to connect is via that jigg that sits underr the carbie when I move it to the other side of the engine bay. Basically my concern was that that pipe was usually connected to the bottom of the carbie mount and air was sucked into the manifold. Obviously when supercharging the motor instead of being sucked through the charged air would work against the valve. Being a draw through setup the carbie runs under vaccume rather than pressure. So when I mount the carbie I just connect it on that same jigg under the carbie. A quick scetch of what I am thinking. Tell me if you don't think it will work

While we are on this subject. I am doing a draw through setup with my supercharger, would I have to weld on a valve onto the piping before the supercharger to relocate the pcv valve? Or could i run a breather on it?

Location?????????

Spotted a white KE70 donning the rollaclub sticker at work, DSTO E. Noticed the car before but never knew you were a member! I'm the one usually parked near you out front of 180 labs in the willow green KE55.

Don't bother as it would cost you less to rip out ones from another fan unit, it would also be easier. I already had my resistors so it wasn't a problem for me. As TRD ke70 stated, check that there is power on the fan first before anything else.

The coils are resistive wire that can take alot of current and heat (wire wound resistor). When you select different fan speeds you are selecting a different coil. From memory the range was like 1 ohms to 1.5 ohms, something like that anyway. Just some simple math: Voltage = 12v Resistance = 1 ohms Current passing through coil = 12/1 = 12 amps. Thats alot of current to pass through sutch a small wire, thus why the wire used is called a thermistor (thermal resistor). It may be a little less as I think it's some sort of voltage divider to get the fan speeds different (changing the voltage on the motor). I pulled mine apart quite a while ago cause my coils were fried and replaced them with heat sinked resistors. Looks exactly like this one, but slightly larger.

Take the fan out and check the resistor coils on the unit. You will see two plugs connecting to the fan. One is for the motor itself and the other is for the resistors. Give the resistors a very slight poke and squeeze, if they crumble then it is the resistors. If you are electronically savvy then you can replace the resistors with better ones that have heat sinks on them, they are quite large but they don't get as hot and last forever. If you are not so savvy got to your local wrekers and take one out of another fan unit, you can get the same resistors out of an AE92 but requires a little modification.

Are you in Aus? Might pay to find a seller here if you are. If not I don't think there are too many people on here that would have purchased an engine from the US.

Points???? Why not get an electronic dizzy?

www.ae82.net Plenty of great information.

Brake squeel like you have described is usually an effect of surface glazed brake pads. It could also be an effect of very slight vibration going throught the disk/pad. It could also just be that it is a harder compound pad. To eliminate this you can take the pads out and using a 400 grit sand paper take the hardened surface away from the face of the pad. To see if it is a vibration issue, make sure that the pads are seated properly. If the pads are ment to have spring clips, make sure that they are still attached.

Dam ricers with their NA bonnet scoops! :P I got bored one day and bought a supercharger, the missus wasn't too pleased.

I still can't beleive you fell for that electric turbo crap.....

Please don't say you are serious about that................

Lol no way would I ever think of doing that! I guess I forgot to mention 'forget mounting the turbo at the back'. I was just mentioning that turboing would not cost an arm and a leg. The only downside of running a draw through is that you shouldn't run an intercooler aka thermobaric bomb. If you are dead serious about running the turbo at the back I would suggest to run smaller pipework and use the blow through setup. The reason I mention smaller pipework is because it would have greater airspeed than a larger OD pipe which you would want over such a long length to reduce the lag issue. I know that this has been done before (rear mount turbos) but the cars that had this done were large capacity engines and only done because of a lack of space in the engine bay. I think the main problem that you will run into is that the exhaust gasses have cooled down too mutch and slowed down too mutch before getting to the turbo being such a small capacity engine.

Firstly a turbo setup will not cost you an arm and a leg... Run low boost, carbon sealed turbo, draw through retaining original carbie or go twin original carbies and re jet them. The turbo can be sourced from a nissan pulsar turbo (early model). The rest is just pipe work. No need to make it stealth, as said above if you are not a douchebag you will not get picked on.

That's what I meant in my original post of the sr20 conversion costs. When ever I think of a motor conversion it's never just about the motor itself but making the car safe to drive on top of that.

I'm probably wrong but even with doing the work yourselves $3000 seems too cheap to me. I guess that I was looking at prices for engines that had warranties so that bumped up the price aswell.

If its the SR20 you want for the endgame then don't bother with doing a conversion inbetween. Just go for the thing you want straight up otherwise you will be wasting time and money. An SR20 will cost you a bucketload to do correctly and safely. As above if you want some serious advice tell us what your budget is. And don't exaggerate. I think that most of us dreamed of power the same as you have, alot of people have done it reletavely cheaply but mainly because they work in the industry and have great skill. If you have no idea about mechanics then don't dare dream of an SR20 to start with (unless your budget is 10k). Just a quick list for you to think about: Engine Gearbox Driveshaft Diff Brakes Electronics (custom loom required/ or dodgey chopped loom) Fueling setup (lines, pump, surge tank etc) Mounts (motor, gearbox etc) All of this stuff will have to be a custom job and not on the cheap side. Or if you have a cheap budget try to source a 5K. Average price is about $600 for one in good condition. I bought mine for $450 + $150 for a 5 speed and I am absolutely stoked with the motors perfomance over the 4k. Sure it's no power house but it still keeps up in traffic and in some cases leads the traffic.

If you are tightening bolts and it is running better than take the manifolds off, clean them up and put on fresh gaskets + gasket silicon.

Update! Spent some more time pillaging U-pull it and found some more pulleys and a belt to run the blower. Success!! The setup is alot more simple than what I would have thought but it all seems to work very well. Basically I welded on another pulley to the original AMR500 pulley to change it to a v type belt and also bringing the charger pulley to alignment because it was about 10mm out. Unfortunately the pulley is about 1mm off centre which gives a slight wobble. Also what is exaggerating the problem is the fact that one of the bolts mounting the blower is absent. Need to file off some material before it can be placed. You'll see it in the video. The setup The AMR pulley modded for a V belt. The pulley was sourced from a 1988 - 1990's model lancer (the one with EFI) and welded onto the original pulley. The tensioner setup was actually the easiest bit. I used the alternator bracket from a 4k along with an idler pulley from a 4k with air conditioning. The main pulley off the motor is one of the additional bolt on type pulleys from a 4k with air conditioning.

Also check to see that your inlet and exhaust are alighned or have not separated from the head. It only has to be a tiny gap for it to make a difference.

Just take the thermo out all together, unless your local temperature goes down to freezing. As above just flush it out with a hose, but I would defiantely check that the thremo isn't stuffed.

I was at the northern yard today. 4 ke30/55's (one of them a 2 door), a few ke70's and a twin turbo soarer with front end damage, turbos and exhaust manifold gone (surprise surprise) Grab them while they are still there!

Ditto as evan pointed out. Also if you read the label on your coil, it usually says if the coil requires a resistor to be wired up. Some coils do not require a resistor to be connected.