Twinky

Lol that's just called marketing. Every company claims to be the best. So it is up to the user to define what is better for himself. +1 for Penrite! (30w70)

Well it's about god damn time for an update. things have been going quite slow to be honest as doing some house mods has been taking up alot of time. But to get things really excited I have once again changed plans, for like the 100th time. Although this plan still retains a supercharger so it is a good change! I will let the pics do the talking. Mmmmmmmm....... Fuel injected goodness.... Supra injectors....Managed to get a 4k EFI setup from a fellow member and now things have started to pick up again. I had the Haltech for a few years now, it's a E6 that originally came off of a FJ20 that a friend used to own. So when I saw the manifold up for sale I almost instantly messaged the bloke. Now I can finally make use of the old dinosaur. Great thing about the old Haltech is that it uses all GM parts for sensors and the like. So a few trips up to U-pull it and got myself nearly everything I need to get me started from early model commodores. There is only a few things left to sort like the trigger wheel and trigger home that I have to make up but apart from that it is almost all there. I have alreay made an adaptor for the TPS as the original 4k TPS is a 3 position switch and what is needed is an rotary potentiometer. So basically I scrummaged through U-pull it cars untill I found a model that had the correct style of TPS that I wanted and that it spun in the correct direction. I made an adaptor spacer and changed the style of lock-in plug in the sensor to a D slot and it is almost ready to go on. Just have to make a little plate to cover a small gap and then paint it so that it does not look soo daggy. Now my attention focuses towards a trigger wheel. I am thinking of making a rare earth magnet 180 degree opposed wheel with a hall effect sensor mounted on the crankshaft to match the needs of the Haltech and for the Home trigger I will go off of the camshaft pulley. At this stage I will only be controlling fuel untill I figure out what I need to get for direct fire Ignition. The Haltech I have only has one ignition output so I may have to use a MSD system, I'm not quite sure yet. Failing that i will just use the dizzy and controll the spark with the Haltech, not that it is bad just that it is limited. I'll post as many updates and pictures as I can and hope to cover the conversion as thoroughly as I can. If anyone has a question with regards to EFI I'm sure that I will be able to help you out or at least point you in the right direction. It's not as hard as people think it is, just have to do alot of reading and net blod trawling.

Iv'e used Castrol Magnatec (Really good for the 16v/20v 4AGE) and Panrite wins hands down for the 4k/5k. There is simply no need to go for sutch thin oil, like I said the thin stuff just drains back out of the head and hey presto worn valve guides. Good for high revving motors but not for our sluggish k motors. If you are not racing then seriously consider 30w70, I am not joking you will notice and hear the difference. If you decide to go with Castrol then I would advise on GTX 20w50.

For old engines I can't go past Penrite 30/70 for old engines, stops the oil from burning. Had a 4k which blew a little bit of smoke in the higher rpm and as soon as I used that it stopped. I see too many people using 10/25 on old engines these days, simply just drains out of the head too fast and inhibits premature wear. The thicker stuff stays up there better.

Probably a little too in depth for us simple folk. Only those that have done it before would know. If it is not too expensive give it a try. Would components from a 4 speed fit? I'd say you will have to end up pillaging another box.

Lol I just don't get this thread..... Seriously if you change anything on a car it is defectable unless it is an OEM option that complies with the ADR, even then it might be defectable. The reason we get defected is because too many ricers with no brains modify thier car and totally f@$k it up making the car dangerous to drive, so when they crash and the modification was the fault you get screwed even more. Now they are checking every car out in case these types of things happen regardless if you know what you are doing or not. I have never been defected and I drove my car that was super low, tires protruding, coilovers, bucket seat, too loud, 20v engine swap. Drove it for over a year on the road, pulled into numerous defect/bretho stations and not one glance was had by a picky cop. Be nice and don't drive like a f@$ktard and you won't get pulled over. Simple.

Could Also be a flooded fuel bowl, check that the float closes off the fuel inlet just before horizontal by blowing into the inlet and raising the bowl by hand untill you can no longer blow through. Although the sluggish turning over does seem a bit odd, check the starter motor connections. If not that check your coolant for oil and check the oil for coolant.

About as comprehensive as a can of beans :P

I have many people like this at my work. The place is full of engineers, programmers and the sort. I loaded up a trolley with some equipment from a deployment we just returned from and told one of these engineers to take it back inside. The poor bugga couldn't even push it in a straight line, ended up smashing it into our work car and then turns around and says to me "I think you should take over". I don't even think he could push a shopping trolley. I think it all comes from experience in what we did as children and what we did in our younger years.

Basically almost any High temp engine enamel should work fine but as philbey said it's all in the prep work. Getting all the grime off is the hard part. As soon as the crap is off paint it as soon as possible. Try to paint on a hot day indoors as the metal will be warm and paint will bond to the metal better. If you paint on cold metal it has a good chance to crack off when dry.

Don't go to an auto elec. Go to places like Jaycar or even better go to this website http://au.element14.com/jsp/home/homepage.jsp?CMP=KNC-GOO-GEN-PFB&s_kwcid=TC|15109|farnell||S|b|7753270608 Used to be Farnell for those in the industry. You can choose whatever colour you want, whatever core, materials. PTFE would be awesome but costly. When making your selection you don't have to select all the fields in the filter search.

That's just because you refuse to use your mouth as a holding tool.

Could be interferance with the line from the dizzy. Try grabbing some of those magnets off from the back of monitor power cables and put one on the engine bay side and one inside the car over the wire. Is the wire a shielded wire or just a bare PVC wire? If it's not shielded I would strongly reccomend getting shielded wire for the signal.

Wow this thread is outa controll! Just like the OP wants to be on a public road. Read your first post and then think about it for a second. You stated you are on your Ps and that you want to drift on the road and not the track. How do you think people are going to react? Those of us who prefer to keep the crazy shit to the track are sick of streeters getting corollas flagged as "hoon" cars. If you had a wealth of experience you would not be asking these silly questions because you would know how mutch power is needed to drift/slide a car and actually have fun with it. any car can enter a corner sideways but then powering out is another issue. The 4k is a tough little engine but it can't handle a beating for long. Your diff and gearbox would get constantly destroyed as they are too weak. The most fun you can have with these old things is on a paddock or dirt track. There are plenty of opportunities to legally slide so why bother on the roads? I know that as soon as i went to the race track the roads were no longer fun to drive on and I am constantly craving to go back again. I know we all did our stupid shit when we first got our licences, but seriously. Keep it to yourself and you won't sound like a schoolkid on his holidays. Funny how we are in school holidays, well in SA anyway....

I think that this thread should have been shut down when the OP stated that it was not going to be on the track. As far as I am concerned this is just blatent 17 year old "hooning" bullshit. It's no wonder we get hassled by the popo soo mutch with clowns like this on the road. Seriously an XR6? You can't control a car yet and you are driving that around? I admit I am not always a perfect driver but I sure as hell never endanger other drivers on the road by drifting around corners. I am at the stage of thinking that forums need a minumum age limit to filter out this school holidays bullshit. Sick of pubescent posts like this.

Sprint auto parts can supply any gasket you want for the 4k.

Blow through would be far safer, responsive and you can run an intercooler and a bov. Draw through is cheaper, but has it's hazards sutch as having a bomb under your bonnet because of pressurised fuel air mixtures. I think you need to do more research about how you are mounting all this up. You should have plenty of room to fit everything in.

DO NOT TRY ANOTHER BATTERY! You need to see if it is a short in the system first. That would be why it is getting hot. As above disconnect the alternator and see if it runs. Would be better if you had a multimeter. A battery will only get hot when it is shorted out. A stuffed battery won't do anything at all. I would avoid placing jumper leads on your car untill you get this sorted otherwise you can damage electronics on the donor vehicle.

I am actually going in the same direction as you, I already have a webber just rebuilding it at the moment. If you get yours running before mine, do tell what jet sizes you have used!

Did you ever check the float level?? I thought the same thing about my carb untill I saw that the float bowl was flooding. With the bowl flooded you can forget about the engine idling. I bent the little flap about a mm higher until the port closed at horizontal and now the carby runs mutch better.

I think that the most important thing to know is that the cars are over 20 years old so rust is unavoidable. Don't get too hung up when you find a car that you want and worry about 20c piece size rust spots. Generally people buy corollas because they are cheap so never expect mutch from them. Don't buy them if you think that you will become drift king because without thousands of dollars spent they just won't cut the cheese. The great thing about them is that there is a huge community of people here to support and help anyone out there willing to listen.

Is the oil pressure switch itself in good condition? A few other reasons it would take a while to build up pressure is if you have a major leak somewhere in the system or what you don't want it to be - oil pump. Another thing could be a blocked oil pickup. So if you don't have oil leaks around the motor then it is a good possibility that it is either of those.

Naughty naughty.

Illegal as in to put into a corolla, not as in totally illegal.

If you want a better finish get a buffer wheel on a drill bit. Works a treat.