Twinky

Cools website, I'm still sifting through the Autocross to win site. It's good that they write it in a practical style instead of just throwing maths at you. Bill sherwood also has some good pointers. http://www.billzilla.org/suspensn.htm

Or just read the link Dave sent

Your options sir: 4AGE 16 valve Twin Cam - Big port (found in AE82 Corolla) 4AGE 16 Valve Twin Cam - Small port (Found in AE92/93 SX Corolla) 4AGE 20 Valve Twin Cam VVT "Silvertop" (found In Corolla Levin) Early model 4AGE 20 Valve Twin Cam VVT "Blacktop" (As Above) Late model 4AGZE 16 Valve Twin cam Supercharger - Small port (found in Corolla Levin, MR2) I'm not %100 sure about what engines came in what car but that should be a rough idea anyway

Visit this site www.ae82.net I would assume that being an AE82 it would be the 4AC motor. If you do find a donor car to rip a twin cam out of I would strongly suggest taking out the ENTIRE wiring loom out. As in take out the lights, rear lights, sterio, air con, EVERYTHING. Then it is just a matter of swapping it over and not actually doing any re wiring just re placing the loom. Thats what i did to my AE82 when I did a Silvertop 20v 4AGE conversion. As dave and altezza says, don't worry about the rear brakes. They do stuff all work. I took my AE82 to a race track and after a couple of fast laps the front rotors were smoking (like as in they looked like they were on fire) while the rears were only warm.

I wasnt trying to be nasty or anything, just overly enthusiastic.

Please don't tell me you beleive this? I love it how it says that it can move 1000cfm..... Did they mention that that rating is given by movement in free space? And did they mention that a fan can not actually compress air? The cfm would dramatically drop when you try to cram that air in a tight space. So basically yes that fan does have the air requirements but.... It is a restriction in itself to airflow and it would not give the motor any more air than it would take in without it in place. Oh and they didn't mention the part where a 43,000 rpm motors don't last very long. Oh god where do I finish? With the fact that a 2 litre motor needs what? 200 CFM at 6000 rpm and that thing can get a whopping 1000 cfm? thats what, over 2psi of boost? and only 5-10% gain? The nail in the coffin would be that I DARE you to ring up a reputable mechanic and ask them to install one.

All that electronic turbo jazz is just plain bullshit and is aimed at people who don't know mutch about cars. Yes eelctric fans can blow out a heap of air, but no where near the amount consumed by the engine. Apart from that an electric fan does not have the torque to compress the air as well as increasing that compression at higher rpm. There is a fan that can do this but you would need a battery the size of a car or a 3 phase generator straped to the roof of your car. I like it in that video how he shows the "difference" he is just squishing the pedal a little harder when he flicks the switch. I know this because 1: An electric fan of that size would do f@$k all, in fact it is restricting flow. Pretty mutch he is seeing good mpg becasue it is simulating driving like a granny due to the power deacrease. 2: The rate of rise and fall + range is all over the place. Meaning it is some one pressing and depressing the accelarator pedal. 3. Just because this guy sounds like a complete douchebag Now back to the supercharger thing. The alternators purpose is to generate electricity mutch like the same way the turbines in power stations generate electricity. This in turn keeps your battery charged with voltage preventing it from going flat. Adding another one of these would only enable you generate more power for the battery, meaning you could run a bigger battery and run a fully sick sub doofer sound system. Now with your idea of using some other source to power the charger. Basically what you are saying is along the lines of perpetual motion/overunity but due to physics you would have to break the first and second law of thermodynamics ie. conservation of energy, heat transfer. In very basic terms you cannot produce more power than you consume(overunity), not to say that we cannot produce the same amount of power as consumed(Unity) it just that we need a %100 efficient engine which in this day and age is undiscovered. That about sums it all up I guess, time for a coffee.

The early model ones were just bolted together, but the exhaust manifold side had a large hole exposed to warm up the inlet. The inlet itself is not opened up. Since you are getting extractors it won't be a problem for you. Unless you have that shitty exhaust recurculation crap them you will have to block that off, if not don't worry about it.

Derp derp derp!

Charge light would be staying on because the battery voltage is too low, probably just worn out brushes. Go to an auto elec and buy them for $10 and replace them. But before doing that make sure that the alternator is not charging the battery. Anything below 14 volts is low charge.

This thing will also work http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRoU7dvdujY

What ECU do you have?

If you mean replaced stock struts with lowered struts + a bit of negative camber then... Definately needs a wheel alignment. Whenever you change the suspension geometry you need to get a new wheel alignment

The actual base map should be sufficient to get the engine started, then you pretty mutch tune from there. You wouldn't be able to use somebody elses map unless thier engine had the EXACT same specs as yours, thats including all electrics and sensors. That is the reason behind most EMS companies not giving you load maps. Only cost my mate $350 do do a dyno tune from scratch.

Did you mod the dizzy or strip the internals for the optical gear?

Ok so my luck has kicked in, the first optical pickup I found had a dead "Home" signal. I went back the next day and luckily found another one, tested it back at work and the "Trigger" signal was stuffed. Just my luck. During my search for the optical trigger I decided to get some plan B trigger devices. Hyundai have 3 wire Hall effect sensors in most of thier cars so it wasn't difficult to find them and they were pretty cheap, about $10 from memory. Got back home and wired it up, BINGO!!!! Full square wave signal!! Very stable and responsive. For anyone that is trying to do the same thing here is a wiring diagram to get the signal out. So that is the wiring diagram if you were to do a benchtop test to make sure that the sensor is functioning. The ECU should have internal circuitry to reflect the voltage divider. The haltech manual just shows the sensor directly plugging into the ECU so I would assume that it does not need to have the divider put in place. The sensor works by having a voltage reference from the input voltage and when a ferrous material enters the field it develops a voltage at a 90 degree phase difference and an internal switch turns it off. So basically the unit runs at a constant voltage (Ref Voltage) and then goes low when a tooth passes. Although using something like a piece of ferrous metal will trigger the device it requires a very tiny air gap, almost 1mm. So by placing a magnet on the metal you can increase the gap to 5mm and still have a very reliable, strong signal. For the best results just use a magnet as a tooth and you can get a distance of around 1.5cm, I was using a hard drive magnet in that test so depending on magnet strength is how big the air gap has to be. To be safe an air gap of 5mm would be ideal. Now I can start to make the trigger wheel!

Actually I'll try the castrol again but not the magnatec, just for comparisons sake. Good point mitch, although thicker oil would stay up longer it also takes longer to get up. I'll do an oil flush and change over to costrol and see if I do notice any differences, otherwise back to penrite! I actually use VMX80 for my gearbox aswell, never had any problems with it and it is quite cheap aswell.

I have been told that the oil does not stay as long in the head during operation if you run too thin of an oil. Although these were V8's that he was mentioning I would say that the same principals apply. I have noticed less engine noise when cold after using Penrite 30-70 so I guess it's up to whatever works best for each individual. I haven't had any sludge in my motor when I pulled it apart.

Where did you get said dizzy? Would make life alot easier! My electronic dizzy has an internal ignitor but puts out a reluctor signal, which looks like a saw tooth waveform. I think this would be the same case in the 7K but I am unsure. Just finding the stuff here in SA is a little bit difficult and time consuming. A place that would carry them would be City auto dismantlers but they are rip-off merchants. Just as an example of their rip-offs I was quoted $160 for a 4k carby that wasn't even rebuilt. And then they said to me it would cost me another $100 for them to rebuild it. In a new development I braved the rains at U-Pull it and found myself an optical trigger from a daihatsu! or hyundai? can't quite remember. It runs off the cam and has a separate home trigger! I'll test it at work today and get some results.

I even have a period correct windows 3.1 laptop :D

Here is a download link to the control software just as a reference. http://www.haltech.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/e6_58.zip Tip: This software was designed for windows 3.1 so the title screen appears a bit fudged. Press "N" when it loads up, from there it's just pushing the corresponding buttons to traverse through the menus. The one you want to look at is the Engine Identification menu by pressing "I" You will see that there isn't alot of options there to mess around with for the ignition.

Awesome! I downloaded a more detailed datasheet for the 1gt101dc and it does produce a square wave! The problem with the E6 is that there are no options in the software to use multitooth wheels. So I will be using an almost identical setup as shown in that sensors PDF. I'll see if any car has it in the scrap yard and get it even cheaper. Element14 also has them but looks like RS is a bit cheaper. So if I can't find it at the wreckers I'll get them from RS. Awesome dude!

Hi guys, I'll get started with this question, How do I set up the trigger system on a 5k? AAAANNNND...... How can I do this without blowing the bank? Thirdly before anyone says talk to Haltech support I already have and they have been less than helpfull by throwing me generic responses and shoving god damn reluctor adaptor pinouts in my face which I didn't ask for in the first place. The long story. I am on the path of going EFI on my 5k and have come to a roadblock. I thought I had everything sorted and knew everything I needed to know. Until I got to the last part, the Trigger!!! For those of you who do not know what I am talking about you might as well not read mutch further unless you have the same issue (which I doubt). So... Where the hell do I start? I need a dam trigger system and have been pointed in many directions but see possible flaws in each. Firstly some info on my setup. Haltech E6 Fuel and ignition control (only one ignition output so a distributorless is out of the question at this stage) For those who don't know this, the older model Haltechs sutch as mine require a square wave input sutch as a Hall effect signal. I can use a reluctor signal but requre a RA10 reluctor adaptor, which brings on one option of a trigger. I have the Electronic distributor which has an internal reluctor pickup. At first I thought cool this is going to be easy! But then I thought that the distributor would actually ignite as soon as it can see the reluctor signal. This can not work on an ECU setup becasue the ECU needs to see that signal about 70 Deg BTC sooo is that an option that I should forget about or is there more to it than I am thinking? I can't rotate the shaft back can I? I was thinking of setting up the Dizzy 70 deg out and then letting the ECU fire the ignitor. So on to the simplest but most expensive setup. It's what they call a flying magnet setup. Basically I need to make two aluminium discs that bolts up to the crank and camshaft pulleys and mount rare earth magnets at 180 degrees apart set at 70 Deg BTC as they pass the pickup. The problem is that each Hall effect sensor costs $160 and I need two, one for trigger and one for home. I was wondering If any common EFI cars came out with Hall Effect sensors that I would be able to raid at my local wreckers. Most that I have seen have been reluctor type. So what would you guys do in this situation? I have the manual and it does not say anything about this except for a diagram on how to mount the flying magnet setup. The book does not even mention what the Home signal needs to be, would it be TDC on Cyl No:1?? I have talked to the Haltech technical support that is supposedly a great team, this is what they E-mailed me: This is the same response evey time I send them a question, maybe they have me on a do not deal with customer list? If I had the money I would have just simply bought a new model ECU but I had this laying in my shed for the past couple of years and only cost me $350 so I might as well use it. Sooooo any thoughts? Cheers

Post in the wanted to buy section, not the electrical section.......

Oh wow that is dodgey................... Go back to the fuel tank and block the line off all together then. I would assume that the new fuel pump has a separate line?