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LXY-642

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Everything posted by LXY-642

  1. LXY-642

    Done

    That's awesome mate. My vl needs like another 10k more just to get it running how I would like it :jamie:
  2. especially with an open wheel diff :bash: get your t series in now :bash:
  3. mods please delete this thread
  4. LXY-642

    Done

    i don't have e85 available to me, but hoping that it will be by the time i get my license back. and that's alot of power for pump 98 :bash: that straight 98? or you running a tol mix?
  5. ok sweet as :bash: so only wider for the crank then i'm guessing?
  6. noticed my link don't work for the tyre size comparison. so here. also hoosier are the only one's that i can find and they are $441 each listed on there site. will also be running 275/40/16 hoosier's on my vlt which are also $441 each on there site. under this heading HOOSIER Racing Tires - (CIRCUIT) Sports Car D.O.T - Radial so not even sure if they are street legal, yet to check. http://www.hoosiertireaustralia.com.au/
  7. the tyre size is actually 4mm smaller diameter then stock, being only 35 series. will post the sizing in a sec here you go.
  8. does the head come with the 7k? or no head at all? i'm not so sure but other k heads might not bolt up due to the wider 7k block? am i right here or wrong?
  9. LXY-642

    Done

    98 pump? or e85 pump?
  10. yeah no rear swaybar :bash: and normally the rear should be kept a little bit higher then the front for better handling? like half an inch. thats a guess, by what people suggest for vl's, hence my vl being 2.5" lower front and 2" lower rear. in all honesty the corolla should come up probably 1-2" for better handling i think. i really like the height yours sit's at actually si :bash:
  11. My reason for wanting it around that low is for circuit work more then anything. I hate bodyroll. I will be running a vl diff shortened. Wasn't going to cut the chassis unless I put in the 4 link rear from mcdonalds brothers. Just re-mount the bump stops higher. The car will be getting engineered. So should be right for defects :bash:
  12. Ah forgot about reversing the eyes :) and yeah curly that is why I am looking at options. Wanting to keep it low but not to rough. I'm going to be running 275/35/15 hoosier's. Measured the guards and with rollig them should have 10mm clearance each side :P hence going a watts link setup.
  13. My leaves are flat when out of the car and bending backwards when sitting on the ground to have the car at the height I want though lol. Other option I was looking at. Just getting some coilovers and making up some rear strut towers and raising the bump stop's. Then add in some upper and lower control arms and a watts link setup. Or just get some leaves done properly to suit what I want raise the bump stops and add a watts link setup. It's hard with how low I want it to be lol.
  14. Should I? Or shouldn't I? http://www.mcdonaldbrosracing.com.au/tri4link.html
  15. I reckon the beige ke38 is sexy as :) and also I've seen 18's front and 20's rear on a ke70.
  16. Any updates on r&p and 4 link rear? I want to change the rear of my ke36 to 4 link to suit coilovers. And am 100% changing the from to rack and pinion. Just looking at options. Was thinking of trying a ke70 manual steer rack. Matt
  17. Ok. Well sorry for previously saying my thoughts. Next time when I am not 100% sure I will make sure that I say my understanding was this or something along those lines instead of just saying it. I am here to learn and I do care on others thoughts and what is right and wrong. Brake wise I was going to be running the same as my vl which will need at least 16's. Vt commodore brake upgrade using r32 skyline 4 piston front calipers. They just foul on 15's. But have since decided that the corolla being alot less weight then the vl I'll just stay with the vt twin piston calipers instead of 4 piston skyline ones. So will be running 15's on it. I personally always try and choose tyre sizes that are as close to the factory rolling diameter as possible. And am looking at trying to run some 275/35/15's on the rear of my wagon which are only 4mm overall rolling diameter smaller then 165/75/13's. Not to sure what front tyre size I'd like to run yet though. And I find this thread quite interesting. Everyone is free to express their opinions and thoughts. Just have to remember that were only humans and can often forget little things like saying that is my understanding of it or I thought it was...? Especially when were tired lol. Anyways I have learnt from this thread and be more carefull with my thoughts in the future. Also for those interested here is that calculator I was talking about to work out rolling diameter of trye sizes etc. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html and here is an example using the 165/75/13's and 275/35/15's http://www.miata.net/cgi-bin/tirescgi Matt.
  18. Looks like it's coming along nicely mate. 4k with 4 speed isn't to bad. But if you end of with a 5k the 4 speed sucks lol.
  19. Thanks Vinnie :). Next time I'm at me cousin's place the doors will be coming straight off. Also probably staying with leaf rear end now, unless somebody can put in an easy direction for coil rear? Going to fit rack and pinion steering. Ajps coilovers. Shortened vl diff and run vt front brake setup. And tossing up on wether to minitub it or not :lol: some other plans have also changed. Am getting a complete aftermarket inlet plenum with bellmouth runners made up. High mount turbo manifold with a gt3582r 0.70 front cover and 0.63 rear. External gate. And aiming for 300rwkw with some decent head work and cams. Should make for some fun and hopefully be able to keep it under 1,000kg with me in it. Matt
  20. with just me and my cousin at it, started 11am and finished around 7pm with a fair few breaks. quite happy with the rust, nowhere near as bad as we were expecting it to be :wink: and also quite happy with how much we got done. front end's all apart, engine's out, rear window's out, tailgate's off, tail lights off, rear vents off, interior stripped, almost all rust concerns found. more could of been done, but with kids there to be looked after, needing to go and buy a bucket to drain coolant and oil, and freezer bags to store bolts etc. and the fact of not much sleep over the weekend, hence the late start and early finish. need to get a charger for my digital camera so i can stop taking all the pictures with my phone lol, having no flash is the most annoying. floor only has the one rust hole we already knew about at the rear drivers side seat belt bolt, the rest of the floor is all rust free :wink: let me know what you all think? Matt.
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