Jaydnisevil

Has come quite a way lol. Haha I've spent enough money on her as it is, the CT9 is doing it's job; and well I might add =) I just cannot justify the larger turbo, when I have such a limited room to improve.. I'm still stuck with 1.3L of non cross flow, pushrod, carbie glory :P If I were doing a built K, absolutely! I'd get low comp pistons, proper turbo cams, custom turbo manifold, copper head-gasket and a nice fat turbo etc. From memory I'm currently capable of half boost by 2500 and full by 3000ish gives me a nice drivable range; so long as I am making and maintaining my desired boost level at top RPM, I'm happy =) But that was using one ventrui, might be a tad better now I have two.. MIGHT.. Well I partialy agree, the SR seems like a lot of work and I still wont be happy..i'm actually leaning towards a 1UZ now, as I have the opportunity to buy one rather cheap. I love the idea of an old beat up looking corolla burbling at the lights =P Well that's a good point, and not to mention tone is very hard to convey over digital media.

Haha, one is never "Done" playing with cars :P Nahh I get ya, getting close now. Mixture will DEFINITELY need tinkering with! The standard jets were 140:140, and any rpm or moderately fast opening would just lean out and backfire respectively Above 3000 the mixtures were around >15:1 on the primaries with no load. Open the second and it would either die or backfire. I threw in a 170:175/180ish and its stacks better in neutral, but need to road test (For which I will need another permit) Required to drive any reasonable distance: Minuscule radiator leak Give fuel pump permanent fixture New carby gasket (Minor leakage of fuel bubbles under boost) Mixtures! Vacuum distribution block (Should arrive this week)

Throttle linkage is finished Intercooler pipe's cleaned up few other bits and pieces.

Have made a throttle cable bracket, secured some wiring, new carbie fitted and running with a kit through it. As of today I have my new carbie hat all fitted up, will be modifying the clamp bracket tomorrow to remove the speed clip and tack a nut on the bottom instead. Will be interesting to see what the mixture's are like, and I will make the throttle linkage this weekend hopefully. As for driving I will need to secure my fuel pump and or install a serge tank. After that though, I can't think of much more to do. I need to swap my exhaust to a side-pipe still :) As for this picture, this weekend I'm going to cut one of the IC pipes shorter to make it come across the motor at 90 degrees. That and clean off the old paint from the pipes.

Have not really had much to talk about, but been working on little bits and pieces. I installed the larger return line (10mm copper line) running in roughly parallel to the old one; So that's all running (Still need to mount the rear pump) Other updates, my step-dad bought me a 32/36 weber (Not sure why as I nearly had the old one set) But it's a better carbie, ill be able to use the secondaries and will be easier to tune :) Had to order a kit for it though, was pretty blocked up and aged. Until the kit arrives I cleaned her up, and hooked up to the engine; runs well. Iv'e also got my thermofan fitted and running today :) Hard to make it neat, but I tried. Now given the 32/36 is different I will need to change the carby hat -_- So I'm looking at something like: http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-N-85-8921-Universal-Plenum-/330745696167?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item4d01facfa7&vxp=mtr#ht_2360wt_1159 They ain't cheap, so ill buy one after I get back from the Mt bulla when I have some spare cash.

The summary of my call to Vicroads: Vicpol didn't know what they were talking about :P Most likely they skim read the document stuck to my window and had no prior knowledge on the permit. An exert from my permit: "A. Highways * The vehicle can be used on highways* for any of the following purposes: 1. To take the vehicle from its place of acquisition to the residence or garaged address nominated on the permit of the person who acquired it. 2. Use the vehicle in daytime between sunrise and sunset in the course of obtaining any necessary repairs, modifications or testing to obtain a Certificate of Roadworthiness, a Vehicle Identity Validation certificate or a Vehicle Assessment Signatory Scheme Approval Certificate, or to meet the requirements of the Road Safety (Vehicles) Regulations 2009. I was told that because I have intentions of getting classic historic or street rod rego, testing is a valid reason. If I have no intentions of getting it registered, then that would just be the matter of a different permit. In fact, she was surprised as to why I was pulled over in the first place. NOTE: * Highways (roads and road related areas) "

Cheers, she's not bad for a 1.3L with 28years and 200,000kms under her belt :P Anywho I'll be getting some 10mm pipe for the return line this week. I cannot get the mixture's where I need them until I have a stable fuel supply. At high boost it cannot make enough fuel pressure because I had to restrict the supply given the lowest point was around 11psi. Ohh and I got pulled over today -_- I was going down my back road towards gunnamatta beach (90kph road with no house's) and drove past a black station wagon headed the other way and though here we go. So I pulled up at the end of the road, fiddled with my fuel supply settings for a little bit in hopes they would have kept driving. Drove off and up the road that wagon was pulled over to the left, cruised past and sure enough off he went again (Real subtle guys) Pulled myself over just they flicked the lights on and had a chat with them. From what they told me, my Unregistered vehicle permit did not cover what I asked Vicroads to cover. Luckily they were nice enough to not fine me for doing the right thing and buying a permit -_- So Ill ring Vicroads tomorrow and give them an earfull for not putting the "Other" condition which I specifically said was the purpose for my permit. Lucky me.

Ignition timing is now set where I want it :) Mixtures are still lean because the fuel system is in beta. When I install the larger return line, I can set it up correctly. Still she drives well at 12psi :) Flat road, half a tank, what second gear-3rd http://youtu.be/qfUTmafFhms

Mixture's sorted, next step is to correctly install the secondary pump correctly I suppose. I'm at training this week and there is a fitting and hose store down the road. Ill see what they have. Ignition timing is better, but still not advanced enough, even at 14psi and lean mixtures there was not a hint of detonation. Ill have to tinker with that this weekend I suppose. I dropped it back to 10psi and corrected the mixtures again for a small video, just doing a quick bog what sprint: Found an section of exhaust gasket that was thin had blown out, so losing boost pressure on the way back. Will break out the mig and weld up the adapter plate to the exhaust manifold.

Drove again today and fixed a few things :) The turbo hat screw down bracket was bending (Being Aluminium), so I cut out and migged up a steel one. (Sorry again no pictures, too enthusiastic putting it in :P) Mixtures seem to have dropped again with the leaks fixed, and boost pressure (Obviously) has gone up :) Iv left it around 11-12mpsi for the moment, but its easily reaching that even with my small air filter on there. Occasional splutter when I nail the throttle, but I suspect that's because the mech pump is a tad too big for this motor. Anywho mixtures peaked at 14.1:1 and sit around 13:1 even at full boost, timing it still severely reduced, but its around 9seconds from a idle rolling bog start to 100 :) Video uploading.

Hooked up the secondary pump for diagnosis, and sure enough it works. Only problem is now I have very high fuel pressures.. Tried restricting it which helped but id rather do it properly. No getting around this one, I'm going to have to install a larger diameter return line. The car drives though, pumping out around 11mpsi atm, probably settle around 12-13. Running lean though, never used to do that so will have to address that after the fuel system is correctly setup. By lean I mean like 14-15psi, not where near like the old 17-18psi, ill see how things go.

Seat is in, became much more of a hassle due to my long ass legs -_- but it's in. Unregistered vehicle permit filed today, so legally back on the road :) Took her for a drive and at anything under 6psi it drives wonderfully, slow but it drives. Still need to add my second EFI pump, the lift pump cannot supply enough line pressure to keep fuel in the carby lol. at 9psi it gets completely starved of fuel after a short run at what :P ^^ How the hell do you turn off autocorrect, it insists that the abbreviation for Wide open throttle is a mistake, and that "What" is what I actually meant to write. Might as well look into surge tanks while I'm at it, will need one eventually.

I told photobucket to re-size my photos, but it often takes a while so apologies for the massive pictures. I'm being slack at the moment, trying to save money. Few weeks back: The seat was ready to go in, but when lining it up for welding/bolting we discovered 193cm of me would not fit in the car with the backrest straight up (How I like to sit) One click back was ok, but my head would hit the roof with any small bump; In short, sadly I will not be using the above seat. Instead Ill just use it as an office chair, maybe weld it to some wheels later :P I'm in the process of locating a seat with a lower base that I can use, I might have a friend selling his old one, but am yet to see if its shallow enough. The weeks just gone: I'v been working on setting up my thermofan system. I stumbled across an article a while back on Autospeed about a particular temperature controller. http://www.autospeed...17/article.html For $25 I was sold, off to ebay I went and got one. Powered it up, works great, good features.. for $25 delivered I couldn't be happier. (Especially given temp switches alone can be more than that) Came with a little thermistor, so then came the task of deciding how I would incorporate this into the cooling system. Skipping to the final idea I found that the thermistor fitted snugly in an airline securing nut for a 164ML airmatic pump system. Ill do my best to explain the actual design. That airmatic fitting has little seals internally (Possibly nylon) along with a countersunk section at the very bottom (Like half an olive join) to which an O-ring can sit. So I simply inserted it, found a small O-ring and that part was ready to go. I purchased a fitting that would thread into where the old temperature controlled vacuum tee was, so I drilled all the way through with a 4mm bit, and half way with a 7mm bit to give it a step. Borrowed an applicable tap from somebody and threaded that 7mm hole. I then screwed the top half into the main plug and the force exerted on the O-ring was sealing the sensor (also making it impossible to pull out) Installed I noticed that airflow from the fan would pull a few degrees off the reading, assuming this was due to the heat conduction through the brass, I just put a bit of electrical wire condute over the top to divert the air around. Helped, but not like a few degrees would have mattered. Anywho its mounted in the dash but I'm really starting to hate the look of the interior. I think ill remove the lot and make a new dash, (when I put a different motor in it) one where I don't have to look for suitable areas to mount things; they will all have their own spot and hopefully look a little neater. But for now, it works :) Ill grab a thermofan from somewhere, wire in a relay and should be good. Its set about 88degrees if I recall with a +5 hysteresis. Should kick in around 93 degrees, and turn off at 88; I wanted it somewhere around the middle of the cluster temperature gauge. I HIGHLY recommend this little unit, fantastic buy.

Picked up a like new 2001 GC8 Sti seat off ebay for $70 in spectacular condition :) Yes I know a fixed back would be better, but I know these are comfortable even on long distance. Modified the seats rail's already and will be attaching the adapter to the original rail. Ill buy some steel and get busy welding and bracketing this week hopefully :) Should look something like

Found out that at the current position, it dials out 12-15degrees of timing :) It does this at 3psi which is a tad early for my liking, its alright but a little early. I could just put a hole in the hose to slow up the boost retard, that or use a long hose or expansion chamber. By the time the boost pod has seen 3psi the manifold will be at 12-15psi Have not decided on running boost level yet, I'm thinking 12 MPSI for running about. Id be very content with 14MPSI Iv also removed the mechanical fuel pump today, put a new piece of aluminium in its place. And neatened up some more hoses on the wategate side.

Also fixed the wiring for my coil and the starter issue I was having earlier. Turns out it was a bad 12v supply after all. The wires that go from the front box to the starter also supply the cabin with power. The wire core is far too small for everything to run off. Put a more permanent 12v line into the cabin circuit. Iv also hooked up my vacuum accelerator pump to the manifold which seems to help with off idle what response (well not under load Anywho) It was connected to the vacuum advance port as was the boost retart and FPR, but it seemed to be too delayed.

Quite a bit done today. Starting with modification of the oil pressure fuel pump kill relay. With the quick set-up I had, there was always a faint glow from the oil light. So I re-jigged and relocated things and to inside the cabin. Now it all works perfectly :) Iv taken the relay and its wires into the cabin near the fuse box to try and neaten the engine bay a little. Iv also tidied up the hoses and what not, with slight changes from the last picture. Bad photo, but you get the jist. Now the best part is iv made a boost retard limiter. Was getting late in the day, didn't take any photos so iv done a spectacular paint image :P In short I filed down a washer that was secured to this bolt so that it was eccentric. So a simple T-25 I can adjust how much the points plate twists :)

Relocated the pressure regulator to its underneath the coil to reduce fire risk :P Its only just roughly hooked up as I was getting eaten alive by mosquitoes -_-. Will neaten things up next opportunity I get. Very quick picture, iPhone does a shit job at night, the flash doesn't stay on long enough to focus correctly.

New pump is in, will buy some 7.5mm EFI hose today and hopefully have her running again :) *edit* Pump is in and doing wonderfully :) Iv ran the hoses underneath the car so they are a bit neater, power is coming from the de-mister so I can override it from the dash (No the demister isn't running all the time, its on a new switch) Fuel pressure has dropped to an acceptable limit of 4psi :) The only thing remaining is to move the coil and or regulator further appart, that and cover my shame in the boot :P

I silver soldered the pipes in today, plugged the connector in etc. After struggling to get my tank back in and the filler neck lined up, all back together, two nice holes for the pipes into the boot and making sure everything is secure, putting 20L of fuel into it. Pumps dead -_- This is why I hate wreckers, ʞ©$ɟ you centre road wreckers.. ʞ©$ɟ you. In case your wondering why I did not test it before I put the pump in? Well I normally would have but I decided against it because get this.. I didn't want it to fail by running it dry. Anywho my two nice little holes became a big access port so I could get the pump out of the hole in the tank (Tight bloody fit, had to shimmy it out) I'm not going to show a photo of that because its awful to look at. Once the new pumps in, ill neaten it up put some edge gaurd on it and make a cover plate. I'm also looking at surge tanks, but funds are running a little low. May have to wait now -_-

Nahh I THINK I get what you mean, the reasoning was simply I couldn't be bothered starting from scratch. So laziness is the answer there :P I already had the log manifold which did work, so I just chopped the runners short and sat it next to the rocker cover. This has an added advantage that when the engines nice and hot, the turbo help heats up the manifold; so you don't have fuel condensing on the walls. I still want to put a heat shield above the turbo, but that's more to protect the throttle cable. If I have understood what your saying correctly, the main issue is that if you placed it over the engine you wont have any room for the carby and or turbo hat. Short of putting a bonnet bulge in place, its going to hit the bonnet. Iv dropped it down so the top of the rocker cover is 3/4 the way up the carby, and its still somewhat close to the roof with the turbo hat on top. Anywho car update, fuel pumps just about in. I went to a rude wrecker today, picked up a VL lift pump and re-jigged things so they fit nicely :) Pump has been positioned right at the bottom, reasonably close to the drain plug. I moved the original rubber stopper to underneath the pump, that way it wont be bounding around hitting the bottom. The original fuel lines have been drilled out, and replaced, I also made a hole for the connector to fit in. I have misplaced my silver solder though, so wont be ready till I buy some more. Anywho its a good start, bit of progress today. Will still need to buy some rather long EFI hose to run down to the front and back for the return.

Ohh yeaa absolutely would lol, but mine is unregistered now, it was on the remaining rego/temp rego when driving on the road. This was stripped out to be a track car in the future, so most of the interior became unnecessary. I have spoken to Vicroads and they think my best bet would be "Classic Historic" or "street rod" rego. Because they are both considered club rego, the roadworthy rules are less restrictive. Classic historic still has to meet certain guidelines, street rod has to pass an inspection. Nahh not just graphs, the proof is in the pudding. As far as I'm concerned, unless you can supply evidence to support your claim, don't bother arguing the point. I supplied evidence from other in different circumstances, direct comparisons and finally physical testing myself. I am managing to maintain 15psi at the manifold throughout the rev range, that's after pressure any drop through the intercooler, piping and carby hat system. I only planed to run 12-13 manifold psi, but I ran that to prove that there is still enough airflow to supply 15psi to a 1.3L from a CT9. Ignoring temperature differences, spool characteristics, tapering off etc, 15psi is 15psi regardless of the turbo. Kinda obvious but if you have a fixed space, 14.7psi above 1atm will yield double the amount of air than normal. Well from my memory it was only on the turbo :/ I cannot recall disagreeing about anything else. He was rather helpful, but his fuel set-up he recommended was for blow-through, as was the carby (Not relevant at the time) I was already leaning to draw-through due to cost, had I known how much oil it would suck I would have just gone blowthrough to start. I knew it would suck some, but wow lol. Huh? I did make my manifold. Did you mean start from scratch when I went from draw-through to blow-through. Because it was a pain in the ass to cut out the head-runner plates :P Had I got them CNC'd yeaa probably would have. Keep in mind iv done most of this in my backyard in a few spare hours every odd month.

The starter issue is fixed now, relay didn't fix as I swapped it out for the one directly next to it. As for swapping them: if functions perfectly with a direct power supply then that cannot be the cause. Because of those two things, I wanted to look into it further. I still think those relays have a resistance that's too high for that level of current draw. ~80omhs is quite a bit considering its supposed to act like a switch. Now that's not strictly true, taz is the only one who I had a disagreement with, and his mate just supported his argument. Actually I listened a few times to people's suggestions, One instance that comes to mind is the use of a SU carby when I was planning for a draw-through set-up. I listened to mitch and have now moved my fuel pump to an in-tank setup, and will be shortly followed by relocating the pressure reg. Velekas told me not to have the boost blowing straight down the neck, so I went with a LPG hat. Yes I have not taken all advice on board, but some of it was not suitable at that time. Taz wanted to me buy a turbo that is unnecessarily large, when I had a CT9 already in my possession. And I believe I have shown that I was correct in saying a CT9 is a suitable size for a 1.3L. I'm maintaining 15psi, measured at the manifold, and on the free-way it made a lovely turbo noise but was not making boost, just whistling along at -10mmhg. He was adamant that I would run out of puff anywhere near the top end. Well to be fair they have taken the simplest path to boost. Iv started with one thing, the changing to another with lots of modifications in between. Had I originally started with blow-through, my manifold would not have had to been made, could have just bolted the Webber to the stockie. Because my set-up was draw-through, I wanted the exhaust path to the turbo to be short to try and help with response. They just used a J-pipe which is fine when your setup is for blowthrough. As I said in an earlier post, I'm doing this just for the experience. Its not a daily drive so there is no rush, it was just a project. Most of the problems occurred when I changed from one idea to the next. What do you mean "get away with" ? Yea Iv heard similar, the lift pump alone SHOULD supply enough pressure for this setup. When I put a SR in it, then ill put my 070 back in action as I already have one.

Been quite a while since some photos so I took a couple. Given my car is now out of rego iv taken the time to fix a few things. The fuel system being one.. I always wanted my fuel pump to be mounted in tank, but couldn't be bothered at the time. Another reason is when I eventually change the engine I will need a larger supply and return line. I couldn't get it lower than 7psi as is, and its a little higher than Id like for my carby. Anywho Iv taken the tank out of the car, and letting it dry out. Ill be buying yet another fuel pump that I can mount inside. Eventually when I put a SR in it, ill just use my Bosch pump sequentially so bump the pressure up. Very dirty on top :P Neither of these will fit through the hole.. I could cut but id rather just get one that will work. It will fit in the filler neck hole and I could pass it through, but ill see what plan A works out like.

Starters fixed, that 12V supply line worked a treat. Now trying to solve what I think is an over fuelling issue in first. Basicly if I give it full throttle from a very low RPM it hesitates. Only really noticeable in first that iv found. Any-who I reckon its because iv put a jet that's expecting Twice the amount of air to pass by, and given that its incredibly low RPM and doesn't go away till boost kicks in I reckon its too rich. Iv disconnected my mechanical and vacuum fuel pump.. Figured they were designed for a 3.9L falcon to punch it, could be part of my problem. Well its helped.. Its very hard to tell. Tomorrow (When its not wet and I can actually load it up without the rears lighting up) ill lean out the low speed circuit and work on restricting how much fuel gets pumped in from the vacuum pump. I really need a dyno for this shit :P