Jaydnisevil

Ok was mucking around earlier to try and get this hesitation sorted out. Now my suspicion was the carby was oversized for the engine, and it did not have the airflow to draw enough fuel at low RPM. This was then supported by Weber performance Aus telling me something similar. First thing was a test, I put a bit of cardboard 98% over the secondary throat.. Low and behold an idle to what throttle change had no hesitation what so ever! So its definitely a secondary fuelling issue. A restrictor or disconnecting the secondary is not really a viable option it would be a last resort. Next step, was to hook up the throttle nudger to a vacuum source (Just substituted it over the booster for now) Then I proceeded to yank out the secondary jet, check the size and for blockages. Well as a test I left it out to allow as much fuel as it could take. Turns out this gave a considerable improvement in the hesitation (say 85%) Some hesitation from idle-what but the mid throttle-what was gone :) I also re-jigged the vacuum source to my fuel reg, which is now tee-d off the vacuum advance so manifold vacuum does not effect the pressure. In doing so my base pressure has jumped up to a considerable 7psi :blinks: I would really prefer to keep it at say 4.5-5psi, so not sure how I will approach this. That pressure is just a result of my line back-pressure to the tank. I suppose I could shorten the spring, but ill keep thinking. Anywho, at least the pressure rises at a correct rate now and with boost pressure :) Ohh and with that higher pressure (4.5-7) This again gave an improvement in the hesitation! Its not perfect but now if I have given it a squirt, and try a idle-what jab soon after there is none at all. The only time it occurs is if I maintain a cruise RPM for a few seconds (when the mixtures settle back to norm) and I do the idle-what blip My thoughts.. Check to see if restricting the air correction jet helps, if so..Get a smaller secondary air correction jet. Fuel pressure issue.. Dunno, a little vacuum at idle would be perfect opposed to none. Cruising it will be fine, it sat back down to 4-6psi depending on the vacuum. But 7 is just too high for idle me thinks.

Fixed my fuel pressure issue :) I am far too tired and lazy to get up and go take a photo, then try to explain the lot. So with my amazing PC paint skillz, I sketched it out in about 5 minutes :) Now holds a lovely 4.5psi as a base pressure, and sits at 1 at idle :) Pump sounds happier too, rather than scrounging for fuel.

Yeaa the flutter is compressor surge, knew that. But its another noise at the same time. That being said I didn't look very long. More important things to attend to. Videos not up yet, will edit this comment when they are available. Flutter http://youtu.be/grue97nYhvE Early check before vacc pump hooked up. http://youtu.be/KRhM3A9oqn8 Later check (Have adjusted idle and A/F recently since this video) http://youtu.be/7i12IQpquu8 And that's the lot for now.

Have all the wheels now :) Brakes are on and working, but I'm gonna swap the lines they look a bit aged. Iv got videos of it running on 4 cylinders again, and a little bit of turbo flutter on back off (With a strange noise I cannot work out) It could be a number of things, but the first logical would be air escaping somewhere. (Carby hat etc) The second is of the A/F ratios. You can see when I opened the secondariness and it leaned right out, you can tell because the stumbling is very audible. Ill add the videos when they have finished uploading. Ima need to sort out this fuel pressure issue, me thinks ill need to use my lift pump somehow opposed to my mechanical pump. I think the EFI pump is drawing it out faster than the pump can supply. Other idea is to link the return from the regulator to the mechanical pump in or just before the EFI pump, to ensure constant supply.

And the vacuum leak is fixed :) Thank you sikaflex! Did the spray test and no change in RPM, so now the next step. So glad it worked this time, because I'm sick of taking the manifold off :glare: Running correctly: Vac leak NEWLY NOTICED... :hmm: Running on 3 pots Tidy Hoses 7v line to carby, not 12V Hesitation/Leaning out once secondary's open (Probably related to fuel pressure or blocked secondary) Driving reliably: Throttle cable (I have a rough idea, and I have one connected now but its only temp to move the car) Wheel alignment Front disk and fluid flush (This weekend) In and working but want to convert to banjo connection, not happy Exhaust hanger (Next weekend) Air filter Longer silicone hose Set correct fuel pressure [Kinda set..seems to jump up around, might need to use my other electric lift pump. Water pump (Current one leaking) Race able: EBC redstuff pads New LCA bolts

Demand and you shall receive :) Took these last night by chance, mainly for record purposes. I got a 98% improvement in the plates by again heating and using our press. Just contacted the edge of the plate and it was happy to comply ;) Sorry, no imbeded links. Photobucket not functioning correctly, so resorted to youtube. Simple video of start up giving an example of cabin noise (Doors open I believe): http://youtu.be/D-EZ-RCh1VU lol, went to get an engine video but this was more amusing to record: http://youtu.be/INL8WZqBbZw Still evidence of a slight vac leak, used to run at 25-26MMHG. But just checking its all functioning: http://youtu.be/Fy85gDsbDvY Confirming cylinder 3 is the cause of my vacuum leak: http://youtu.be/7kpCMuTXri0 With the vac leak, I'm going to try my luck with another 100% new gasket opposed to a once used. And also double down and use a high quality sealant left over night. If that does not work, ill take the manifold off again for finer adjustment and possibly machining.

Got it running again tonight :D Running like a pig, but running none the less. I bought a bottle of MAP gas and adjusted the plate position myself. (cherry red and JUST fitted in our vice) The rear plate is not flush to the head, hence the rough running (plate at cylinder 3 perks up relative to cylinder 4) but its not far off. Tomorrow I should hopefully have it even and running better :) Then I can work on the throttle cable, install the last disk, order some EBC redstuff for me front pads. From there I shall drive my way down to auto-barn and get the longer silicone joiner, order myself a new water-pump and bam; the dirt is gone. :dance:

Well iv decided what's going to be replacing my faithful 4k, saving for that will start after my holiday :) SR20DET will do just nicely I think :) (Lol shoulda just bought an S13 and saved the time) That being said, look what can be done with a 2JZ :P http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Szk2siJHJ7o Anywho for the moment we press on with the 4k. Suspension is 95% done Everything bar welded plates, and larger LCA bolts (still standard ones atm now, needed the car on the ground again) Ohh and I'm putting new rack boots on this weekend, obviously the old ones did not fit correctly. For the extension of the steering, I used AW11 rack ends and S13 tie rod ends and they fitted perfectly :) Obviously will need a wheel alignment (can do at work) Iv made the hole filler pieces and installed em, much happier now. Ill still have em welded when I fine a TIG welder locally, but at least I feel comfortable driving it now. Now over 4 weeks later, the manifold STILL has not been done :bash: So iv gotten it back of dad and will leave it with a exhaust joint to manipulate. However I put it in the right spot and done the plumbing for the remainder of the charge pipes. I just need a slightly longer silicone joiner, to get the angle right I had to twist the IC outlet pipes away. Ummm think that is all really.. Awaiting my manifold to be re-bend before it starts, then just the throttle cable bracket :)

New 12mm bolts in. Iv added the space fillers to the passenger side, never got to the driver side because I lifted my half thumbnail when I slipped up off a bolt. Needless to say my hand f@$king hurts :P Ima still gonna have it welded I think, but I'm happier that the load is now spread out a bit more. And it also seems to have centralized it self in the hole :) Ill work on the other side this weekend I think. Id still rather have new lower mounts, but beggars cannot be choosers lol. Ill keep looking though.

And the fronts are in.... Ish Again, the following is an earlier picture before I removed the plates for cleaning up. But it shows it all attached. Stupid me got caught up in thread pitch today and grabbed M10 instead of M12, so ill have to replace the mount bolts (No biggy) Now ignoring the pre cosmetically altered plate butchery, the worrie I have is shown in this picture. That gap in the top bolt hole.. I am fairly confident the bolt will not move around once tight (Especially if I weld the places in place) But id rather to take up that gap...Initial thoughts are: To cut out a piece of the same thickness and shape and press it in, then re-drill using the outer plate as well. Add a third bolt right through the middle to prevent pivoting. ....I can't think of much else, anybody got any ideas? If I weld the plates to the lower mount, then I don't think it will be an issue as it should all act as one piece. so that would be plan A, but I need to think it over. Ill speak to a few people over the next few days, see what I come up with. Ideas appreciated guys I wanted to replace the whole lower mount, but as it turns out they do not make them any-more in that shock size..f@$k. So short of buying a whole new coil-over setup, this will do. Ill update with more pics when the wheels are off again to do the rack ends and fix up the bolt issue. LOL I hooked up the tie rods to the hub just so I could move the car if needed.. they had to unscrew so much the toe out is monstrous :P Ohh and awesome luck, the old brake line threaded perfectly into the new calliper! Although I get the feeling I should upgrade the master cylinder for some reason... dunno, just a random though. Ill invest in some EBC red-stuff once the cars on the road.

Well iv gotten half of my S13 front end :) I have got the two hubs + LCA's, but only one set of brakes so far. A mate of mine with a 180 has converted to 5 stud at a very convenient time, so I have 'purchased' his front end and wheels :) Iv got a start on things, but given I got home at 5:30.. its rather hard to work in the dark. * RHS coil-over installed As you can see, I have a aluminium plate on the coilover-hub mount... well the previous previous owner did not tighten the top bolt sufficiently and its flogged out (I may have previously mentioned this) So opposed to just a washer, iv made these to prevent excessive movement in that hole and give extra strength. I think the correct bolt size and tension will be enough to hold the plates in place, but I believe ill have them TIG welded to the lower mount. They are not shaped yet, ill do that once they are in place and I can follow the contours of the hub. * Lower control arm installed (along with hub) * Drilled new hole for castor arm * Sway-bar+link attached (Not pictured) The wheel isn't flush (Nor is the hub bolted tight to the coil over) But that was just to check the ride hight I had quickly set.

Maybe.. Didn't really want to go down that path. Especially if I buy this other motor. How much will compression drop by? (Ie what is the new safe boost level)

Cheers, keen to have it running myself. OK.. that car/motor I was looking at..turns out its a 3T-GTE. Don't know much about them, but from what iv read so far they are pretty durable. Considering buying it, the only things that are troubling is it doesn't run.. Now the guys a qualified tech, and said he has apparently narrowed it down to the fuel pump. But because the body is in shit shape, he hasn't bothered to fix it. The only other issue with it is the harness wiring is a bit funky, doesn't really concern me as I quite enjoy repairing wiring. Ill have to do some research and see if I can pull up some wiring diagrams.. see if it wont be too much of a venture. But for what he is asking, its a too good to refuse. I'm thinking of buying it, keeping the motor, loom, ecu, cluster, gearbox and diff.. Am I forgetting any important parts? Then ill just call up a wrecker or a scrap metal collector to come get it. Can anybody recommend any companies? Preferably ones that have some kind of lift, as he wants the wheels back after I get it to my place. Otherwise they will have to drag it onto the truck, rather not rip up my backyard. I wont tell you how much he wants for the car, you would all be screaming at me to go over and get it now :P

Required: Wategate welded shut (More reliable) Done Tank vent of sorts (searching for vented cap) Pressure reg vacuum supply Tee into existing line Done Manifold welded (Again ) Doneish, warped during heating and am re-aligning. Throttle cables (can't do until manifold is 100%) Exhaust bracket to support extra weight. joiner from IC outlet to carby hat (Basic maths says ill need a 3.75" - 2.5" reducer, the rectangle has an area around the same size as a 3.75" circle) Done Updates: S14 Coil-overs purchased, ordering S13 feet S13 LCA's, hubs and brakes etc to be acquired shortly, mate of mine is converting to 5stud on this 180sx. Looking to buy a corolla with a 4AGE already turbocharged for next to nothing... tempting Installed: Stiffer rear springs Mercedes Benz 211 rear shockers (Need to cut the bump-stops more) Questions: Can I somehow install the rear coilovers as well? and is it worth it given that the coils are 2stud and the shocker is 1?

Excuse the long delay, I'm saving up for a holiday at the moment so the cars on the back burner again :P Only a few things to add really.. I have removed the turbo so I can weld up the internal gate correctly (No bodgey brackets) Cannot recall if I had said I extended the exhaust a tad (it was running a few weeks ago and was rather loud, didn't want to annoy the neighbours too much) Not like it does much anywho :P Ohh and I came up with a solution for a turbo hat :) Used a LPG hat that actually were used on these webers, ill have to find a way to cut off and attach my pipe to that rectangular inlet but there will be a way :) Iv also cut the manifold down and having it re-welded shortly (Who knows how long my step dad will take, busy at work) as you can see in the above it sits about 70mm lower. Anywho I had to make a new base plate as I had no way of fixing the one that came with it down. No biggy but just a hassle Also riveted a bracket on to hold the hat down :) Ohh and I got the adapter for the turbo outlet, but I'm not really happy how it looks :/ Granted the pipes were free and half painted, maybe itl look a bit nicer all black and the hose clamps are cut shorter Ill also need to make a new tank vent as I have used the vent line as a secondary fuel return to ensure low line back pressure. That or get a vented cap. Remaining: Wategate welded shut (More reliable) Tank vent of sorts Pressure reg vacuum supply Tee into existing line Manifold welded (Again :P) Throttle cables Exhaust bracket to support extra weight. joiner from IC outlet to carby hat (Basic maths says ill need a 3.75" - 2.5" reducer, the rectangle has an area around the same size as a 3.75" circle) Thats all that really comes to mind

" I AM SO SMART! I AM SO SMART! SMRT.. I MEAN SMART" You couldn't deduce that from the numerous amount of photos and details of different theoretical plans :P Jokes :P You'v done it before, fantastic for you (No honestly, kudos on the effort) :) :y: But I am not after the same thing you were, is it any wonder why I'm doing things differently? I'm doing this as a muck around, for what 'was' a bit of fun, something to do on the weekend. :) I made my own manifold, manifold head plate, turbo adapter, downpipe, coolant lines etc partially because of original plan, but more so because I wanted to see what I was capable of. I believe I have shown that the turbo will be large enough for what I want out of this engine. Maybe, just maybe, I decided to use a CT9 because I wanted that upper limit as a indicator to move on to greater things. I didn't want to get drawn into head spacing, pistons, rods, cam etc. In my mind its a waste on a motor like that, but each to their own. Bit of a project, and a little bit of fun, that's all.. Is that too much to ask? :)

There is no logical reason why it would, electricity always follows the path of least resistance. Ill replace the HT wire to the dizzy just to make sure. It looks MUCH closer to the pump body than it is in reality.. But ill get a shorter lead and keep it clear :) Thanks though :) Edit: Just looked back at the pics, the HT wire is much more out of the way now than when I took thoese. But ill replace anywho :)

Mechanical pump is acting as the lift pump. Already tested and it works great, takes a 2-3 seconds after ignition cut to stop though (Before the oil pressure drops sufficiently) Did consider it, but a realistically a leak anywhere isn't good. If its in the boot you will have a nice mixture of air and fuel in the rear of your car :P Its one of the reasons I Rubber mounted it in a horizontal position, on that side of the engine (away from the exhaust) The other being that is was close to the 'lift' pump. Guys Simple solution, go troll somebody else's build ;) In the immortal words of Eric Cartman "Get the fudge out" Do what you want with your own cars, but I'm doing this for the experience not for performance that's just a bonus :) Alrightyy then? Take care now, bye bye then :)

Noted, but any idea what the actually problem was? The vents to the bowl are inside the mouth, so it should get the charge pressure at the same time. Ill have to look into that. If its better (in terms of hight) I might put a box on top of that cat piece, and run a pipe out the side of that. Then it only need's to be roughly 2.5" high and wide. Opposed to making room for the curve of that pipe, actually I like that idea better... Well I'm trying to find a solution to my clearance problems. As it is, the bonnet JUST hits the carby.. So I need to drop the log enough to allow for the hat. I'm going to get my dad to cut the runners down, bend and re-weld them. Because I originally had the coolant lines on the other side, I tilted the runners away from each other slightly, so they wont light up directly if I just chop them. We will have to heat and re-position the pipe slightly. Its either that or I replace 80% of my manifold :( The alternative is add a bonnet bulge like the falcons http://www.bremerford.com.au/img/fpv-gt-image.jpg Ohh yea, and neatened up a little.

Fuel pump and reg are installed :) The pump runs through a relay which is powered through the oil pressure switch. Oil-pressure drop's (Crashed, stalled etc) and the pump will stop in a second or two. Ill neaten that whole area up tomorrow, its too late tonight :P Need more angle grinder disks to trim that bracket and have that relay mounted a bit nicer. Found a way to make a top hat without using a MONSTEROUS 4" Mandrell pipe (Which I did look at today, but its was absurdly big) Its the shell from a cat so it goes from a the 7*10cm carby opening to a 2.5" pipe, which is perfect because the IC uses 2.5" Ill buy a steel plate tomorrow so I can attach and weld that piece to it.

Heyy Mr I know everything, sup! Ill go ahead and not take your word over peoples that have been in the industry for years, and actual evidence. Starlet GT low boost comparison CT9 Vs TD04 (I believe the WRX one) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v229/TTJ/4erun.jpg Blue = CT9 @10PSI Red = TD04 @8PSI Everything else on the car was identical, other than the for mentioned boost level. Btw if anybody wants any info on the 34ADM weber and how to set it up/dismantle. I borrowed a book from tafe and scanned 20 odd pages and made a PDF. http://www.fileserve.com/file/ZAFemPA

Very neat, I like it :) How did you get the manifold to stay shiny without rusting? Did you have it chromed, or is it just stainless?

Interesting, got a build thread? :) Wasn't aware they revved that hard, then again I don't have a tacho do was just guessing :P As for running out of puff, I wont know till I drive it. But it did not have any troubles with the starlet GT (As I have previously shown with graphs) There is no dramatic drop off in power or torque, at least not until 6k+ and then torque starts to drop down. Iv actually got a nice graph comparing a CT9 to a TD04 from a starlet with interesting results. A turbocharger with a small cfm in a higher efficiency range will make more power than a big turbo at its low efficiency range. There is a cross over point, just depends on what boost your running. As for the turbo choice, well its not up for negotiation. This one will do fine for now, and when I want to get more serious, I'm just replacing the motor. I am aware this will not be a bat out of hell, but it was just a fun project I wanted to do :) Trying to make any real power... well your milking a dead cow with these motors.

Haha well yes but still a supercharger has much less hassles. No J-pipes, no oil supply, oil drain, coolant lines or no downpipe etc.. The only thing you have to do is get a multi vee crank pulley and size it correctly (Plenty of programs to do that, I have one on my external HDD) Still something cool about having a turbola though :P

The consensus from the few experienced people I have spoken to was: On the webers, So long as the bushes/seals aren't worn its not going to be an issue. I will keep an eye on it, and work from there (replacing seals or an alternative solution. Iv got bigger fish to fry at this stage :) If it all becomes too much, ill just whack it together and start saving for the new engine :) One bit of advice for anybody going down the FI path... if you want simplicity, just go with a draw through supercharger! The lobes are sealed somewhat by the fuel, and you don't have to worry about any bullshit :P The only disadvantage is you can't adjust the boost pressure easily.