Jaydnisevil

Haha they are a simple concept, not a simple thing ;) I went for the CT9 mainly because a mate of mine was selling his. That and it came off a 1.3L Starlet GT A car with DOHC's and a much higher revlimit (Flow requirements). My mate had a dyno of his starlet, showed very little signs of running out of puff at the top end :) EG @12psi http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa295/juzzman/dyno-results1.jpg @9psi http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b104/51MPL/khoisstarletdynograph.jpg @13psi http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/scragley/scragleydyno.jpg @12psi http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg134/rikjames_bucket/StarletDyno1.jpg Bigger may be better, but considering I was going with a draw through setup I wanted something that wouldn't heat up the air too much (Intercooler is NOT an option) :) As TAZ said, each to his own. I am happy with this for now :) In the end I would prefer a engine swap. Its already ran early on in the piece and I adjusted the carby to very rich! I saw's black smoke coming out the exhaust = me and engine happy for now :) Once I'm happy with the setup and there are no leaks etc, I shall install the O2 and invest in gauge :)

Spanner in the works :bash: Dads not welded the remaining pieces, and has left them at work (And today is his day off) Looks like it will be next weekend :( Should really work on my welding skills, that way it would have been done two weeks ago :P Anywho mucked around for a bit last night, and made a little bracket that holds my fusebox in place Also my bleeder arrived yesterday (I have never opened a package faster, quite literally tore it open with my teeth :P) So thats mounted in a decent spot, need to purchase some more hose clamps for it.. Bloody hose clamps will be the death of me, costing heaps :P Ohh yea and replaced my ghetto throttle cable with a new custom length one, choke cable is in as well. But again I need my manifold to route it :(

Could do, have somewhat access to a dyno at tafe. For now at least, ill adjust until its running visibly rich (Or until the exhaust pops and crackles ;) ) Once I wire up my O2 sensor ill do further adjustments from there. What more can they do on the dyno than I can do with a AFR gauge in cabin? SU's are pretty simple things, you can move the needle around or just adjust the base mixture screw.

Update 1.5 Cut and tacked on the waste-gates down-pipe, will be welded this weekend hopefully :) New end caps are on :) Still need to weld in the piece for the brake booster, but tomorrow hopefully. Tomorrow: Boost Tee arives Coolant lines SHOULD be welded Manifold will be ready to paint (booster peice welded in place) Throttle cable bracket should be done. Providing the manifold booster piece and the coolant lines are done, I'm ready to start her up again :) ET for first drive assuming welding gets completed tomorrow: 2-3 days (Worst case Saturday)

Testing purposes* Lol Ill wind her up once I'm happy the hoses and the throttle cable arrangment. That and I need to buy an oxy sensor gauge, have the sensor already. 8psi to begin with, my diff is about to shit itself and I need to replace a bearing before I put too much strain on her :) I think ill settle around 12-14, plenty of time to work that out :) If all goes to plan, I should be able to drive it this weekend or earlier :)

Ok update time again :) Battery wire relocation just about finished, the power wire has been run and connected and so has the Battery isolator switch (Free I might add :D) The wiring to this has been neatened up a little now, its just an earlier photo :P Made a larger ground wire with the left over peices, just to make sure :) Iv ordered my Boost bleeder Tee and that should be here tomorrow (Fitment tomorrow :)) For tuning purposes ill keep it at the stock gate pressure (3.6psi) Once I'm happy with fuel and timing, I shall bump it up to say 8psi? Thoughts peoples?? I searched the forums for results, but most of it was all assumptions based on what they had been told. I could understand 10psi being a nice upper limmit, but I came accross one guy that was running 15psi on a stock motor for over a year now.. hmm.. I think I failed to mention previously that my oil return was brazed in, and thats sitting there rather nicely now :) My external gate is awaiting a 90degree downpipe to point its outlet away from the firewall. I had some left over exhaust wrap from a mates car that I helped with, and well to keep the oil lines behind the engine happy I wrapped the downpipe :) I also wrapped the two outer exhaust runners to protect the power wire and the coolant lines at each end. Iv re routed it and made a bracket that goes to the throttle lever so I can mount the cable horizontally along the manifold :) I don't think I have a photo though.. You can JUST see it in this one, but you get the jist. Need to secure my fusebox some how... I hate making brackets :P :( Tomorrow I should have my manifold and coolant lines back from welding. Welded on not it will allow me to make my throttle cable bracket.

Some welding carried out today :) I now has a down-pipe and partial exhaust! The waste-gate is also just about done :) Just need to get a little 90 degree bend for the outlet of the waste-gate to follow down along side the pipe. Waiting my next paycheck for further advances :P

Haha who need's a STi when you have a turbola with a 4K-CT9 ;) Nahh Ill be getting a scooby as a daily drive soon anywho :)

No welding today :( dad is tired. I spot-welded the plate for the wastegate to a small pipe (acting as an extension) Ill get it welded when I can..grr (Suppose not a huge issue, need the right angle fitting for my booster) Anywho list of remaining items before drive test 1: * Remaining welding * New throttle cable bracket * New coolant lines * Battery +ve wire As a side note, what do the people think about this? I will need to paint my manifold to prevent rust, I bought a can of wrinkle red paint ages ago and did a small test on the cut off 2.5" pipe from my manifold log. Its only one coat and no primer, but was just a test: Its either that or black (My rocker cover is already black and my silicone joiner is red)

Ok yet another update :) Iv started taking things apart again now that I know it all works and runs. That and I am in need of some large power cable for my battery re-location kit :) Its expensive stuff and money is 'toyught like a toyger' (Unexpectedly large phone bill :P) The 'de-ghettoing' process has begun, starting with the wastegate locker bracket. I used the old actuator arm and will be attaching in this location (Left my die-grinder bit at work) Should be finished and secured by tomorrow. I have cut the lower plate ready for the wastegate, we has our welder back and this flange will be welded as of tomorrow. Oh yea... DIY EXHAUST GASKET SHEETING IS A BASTURD TO CUT!! Its sharp, you have to use tin snips and its anything but neat. But being a gasket, I'm happy so long as it does the job :) As formentioned, our welder has been returned, and I was NOT happy with the job carried out on the ends of my manifold (The guy blamed the welder [not ours]) So now I have purchased some 2.5" welsh plugs that I will get welded on by my dad instead. Id do it myself, but my welding capabilities are only about 25% better than the current end caps :P So if all things go to plan, tomorrow the downpipe, wastegate and the end caps will be welded :) I am re-doing the coolant lines so I can re-use my radiator fan for now. Following that the only remaining items really are the battery cable and the throttle cable bracket (which given the manifold mods will have to be re-thought) Slow and steady :) But approaching D-day :)

Normally I would agree, but I made the decision to not go down that path; Not for financial reasons, but reliability. You need to allow for some vibration and expansion as things warm up. I wasn't about to spend the amount of hours I have, only to have my manifold end up with a big crack. can't have the entire setup rigid or it will find a weak point (possibly releasing the air/fuel charge into the engine bay) no thanks :P There are +ve's and -ve's to both methods, but I was more comfortable with the flexible couplings.

Haha cheers, a fire extinguisher will DEFFINITLY be going in! Alot of it has been done properly (If funding permits) EG the oil lines, I though 'how would the factory do this, and how can I make this myself' But yes there are some temporary ghetto parts :P (Wastegate holder etc) As an example, the throttle cable and bracket will be welded and fitted correctly in the future, its just held there to prove the concept :) Id really rather the cable not get stuck open, so I wanted to see it all worked :) Anything I deem ghetto WILL be replaced once the car is operational. I need the thing running, trying to sell my daily drive so I want to keep the KMS down :) EDIT: Here we go, found this in the kitchen :P

Oil return is done and has a fresh load of oil :) Successfully increased my throttle cable length, its slightly ghetto but it works well :) Spliced a hose (lined with hard plastic) into the original outer cable. Got a longer steel wire, melted the old stopper off the original wire and formed a new one inside a nut as a mold :) Still need the welder back to tack on my bracket, its just being held in place at the moment. Video: Finally have my external gate, but need to fit it after I work out the downpipe path. Id love to have it venting outside the side gaurd, but ill see what kind of room I have to play with once the exhaust is done :) I am most definitely in need of a new battery, especially due to the draw through cold starting requirements. If anybody knows of a place to get decent sized cheap battery's do let us know. I think I'm going to re-locate it to the boot, giving me some more room in the engine bay. Otherwise its a little too close to the carby for my liking.

" trust in me and fall aswell" ;)

Dump is a polite understatement :P The coolant is the same, in one side and out the same, sure they had their reasons though. I always just figure companies do strange shit, but they wouldn't spend the money engineering something a particular way for no reason.

Tis, what of it? :)

Small update: Oil return- Sump is off and the just waiting for a day where the shops are open so I can get my pipe welded onto the sump :) Managed to get it off without removing the x-member or anything major :) Our welder is at a family friends house, and its killing me :P Anywho I positioned the drain on the turbo side in-between bolt 6-7 (where the sump just levels off) I chose this location because it runs nicely along the x-member, gives me something to secure the hose to (if need be) That and its right on a main crank bearing cap, so should have minimum oil splashage. Wategate- Well my external gate has been ordered, and will be currently sitting at Australia post awaiting the return of its workers. http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16676&cat=295&page=1 Personally I think thats a great price, just jap have alot of cheap stuff, will probably end up getting my drivers seat from them (Or a second hand ebayer) Currently the old gate is being held closed by steel wire secured to the runner with a wormdrive clamp :P Its just untill the rest is sorted so I can make a proper bracket. Throttle cable - Well iv made my measurments, and made a bracket that will be welded to my manifold for the cable. Again awaiting the return of our welder and wrecker openings to get an appropriate length cable. Oil supply - Well I re-routed it so its a bit neater and further from the future position of the downpipe. Interior - Just about stripped of all signs of life :P Ohh and I re-jigged my ignition panel so now the starter light illuminates when power is available to the starter :D Still no radiator fan, but I can drive the car a short distance after all this is done without a fan :)

Good advice :) I didn't fancy going to town on my sump in the car. Plus if I need to weld (if threading not possible), that would make it much less of a fire hazard :P Is it an involved process? Do I have to remove the cross member and or stone tray? Or can I just unbolt and slide her out ;)

Ok, got some oil in the dashpot and a spring now in the silicone joiner :) I bought a lower radiator hose and pulled the spring out of that, worked perfectly :) I still need to drill the sump, its the only thing stopping me from running the engine longer. Not a huge task :) The radiator has a leak where snapped the 'shroud' off :P So will oxy that back up when everything else is ready. The last two big things is the external gate and the throttle cable :)

The runners are 1 1/4", the inlet to the log is 1.5" and the 'plenum' lol its just a piece of 2.5" pipe) I do plan on cutting off the end plates and replacing with something a little less 'gheto' later down the line (Maybe welsh plugs) But I needed to check it all worked, so this is V1.0 if you wish :P Haha possibly, but I will be re-enforcing it with an internal spring to prevent that collapse :) If it does not solve my problem, I will be getting a reinforced joiner. I wanted a flexi joiner because it allows for expansion and vibration, but I will not be leaving the joiner in its current state :P Thanks :) can't wait to get it on the road, but baby steps. I'm excited but in no rush to get it going, I'm still gonna try and do it properly :)

Timing Issue fixed, turns out the firing order was out somehow :S Suppose thats what happens when you start a project over a year ago and forget how things went back on :P Anywho I has a gasket in place now, all bolts are in place, only one last thing left to make a gasket for the turbo outlet (Cold side) http://youtu.be/xKmtsJYdWSs Ok opinion time peoples! Wastegate plan 1: The Arm currently hits my runner, and I need to cut it off, re-position and weld. Then make a bracket for the actuator, and make the back plate for the outlet of the turbo, somehow allowing for the wastegate to open enough. Wastegate plan 2: Bracket the stock one shut On the old exhaust outlet (which is currently blocked up with a plate) I wanted to mount an external gate. Ill still have to make the plate for the back of the turbo, but wont have to allow for that stupid plate to move around :)

http://s201.photobucket.com/albums/aa93/jaydnisevil/?action=view&current=IMG_2027.mp4 Haha timing issue rectified, its now running :D Its still just dummied together, but it runs :) Proof of concept and setup :) http://s201.photobucket.com/albums/aa93/jaydnisevil/?action=view&current=IMG_2029.mp4 http://s201.photobucket.com/albums/aa93/jaydnisevil/?action=view&current=IMG_2031.mp4 Tomorrow ill be drilling the sump for the oil return (at that point was draining in to a tub :P ) Ill shorten the oil hoses to the lengths I need and am happy with, put clamps on everything, get some proper pipe for the fuel supply hose and rout that :) Iv solved my waste-gate dilemma (well theoretically) So I'm going to work on phase 1 of that, and kick off phase two when I have some more money :) I'm pretty excited actually :D The fuel mixture and timing needs to be sorted out, but it runs for now :D Question though, does it sound like its running on 3 cylinders to anybody else? Maybe its just because its coming straight out the back of the turbo it sounds a bit funky. Ill have to do some checks tomorrow, see if its just a spark issue :) Could also be because I'm not using a gasket, just sealant. Would explain why it was a bit reluctant to rev up (Relative to my throttle position) Also, I am in need of a new gasket for my manifold!! PLEASE let me know where I can get one? I'm thinking autobarn or repco, the intnernets has a few but can't find anything in aus :( That or I'm too tired and am going blind :P *Edit, stumbled accross one on ebay. Google found it, the ebay search turned up squat lol*

Actually its coming together quite nicely :) Its not a daily drive so my motivation has been fairly low, but I will say I'm kinda excited to Finnish it up now :) Custom work has been the hard part, and getting the parts. Most of it done rather cheaply :) Whats been done: Well I can't remember what I had said I was up to (If anything) so current list of completions and to-do Completed: * Weight reduction - Nearly everything is stripped out, one drivers seat and dash frame remain (with cluster) :) * Boost gauge - mounted neatly where the clock used to sit :) * Exhaust manifold - Knocked out the heater port, blocked up the old exit, made an adapter plate from 3 - 4 bolt holes held with unbrakos :) * Coolant supply lines - No heater box anymore, so pinched the supply lines from there :P * Oil supply - Used a T- peice from the sensor * Oil returne - 90% done, just need to cut a hole in the sump. * Manifold - 80% complete, Custom manifold plates cut from steel, log manifold complete (Need to cut hole for supply tube and seal up ends with welsh plugs and tac in place) * Missile switch's - Un- necessary but just for novelty really :P To-do: * Finnish manifold * cut hole in sump * new radiator thermo fan * Throttle cable needs replacment (too short) * weld up the rear diff ;) :P * Ohh waste gate lever needs to be re attached (hits manifold :( ) In terms of running, its just the manifold completion needed :) Driving may be a few weeks away yet :P Photos: Boost gauge mounting ;): http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa93/jaydnisevil/IMG_1181.jpg Origional issue with the plates: http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa93/jaydnisevil/IMG_0845.jpg Lol missile switches + starter: http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa93/jaydnisevil/IMG_0840.jpg Exhaust adapter plate: http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa93/jaydnisevil/IMG_0578.jpg Manifold plates cut by hand: http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa93/jaydnisevil/IMG_0666.jpg Manifold being welded by a guy from work: http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa93/jaydnisevil/IMG_1907.jpg Completed manifold (minus end caps): http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa93/jaydnisevil/IMG_1909.jpg Manifold on engine: http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa93/jaydnisevil/IMG_1916.jpg Plan for supply pipe: http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa93/jaydnisevil/IMG_1919.jpg Oil supply adapter: http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa93/jaydnisevil/IMG_1882.jpg

Just grabbed another one for a TD04-L (assuming 2k-3k spooltime and 100% volumetric efficiency)

I'm not saying it wont work, because clearly it does, but its just excessive unless your running 15+ psi.. Subaru put that on a 2L motor running 1bar for a reason. If they had a 1.3L engine, I can assure you they would use a smaller turbo. Lol Fair enough, your in a shitty mood and I'm being stubborn :) Feel free to chime out, and I thank you for your help up to now :bash: PS: If you look above the photo, I said its a TD04-H because I couldn't find my L map. At 6000 rpm, a 1.3L motor only pumps out 65L per second (0.065M^3 per second).. (assuming your pumping 65L per second at 6000rpm, which given the age of the head design and the cam profile, I highly doubt.) 7psi is a pressure ratio of about 1.47 6psi is around 1.4