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Jaydnisevil

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Everything posted by Jaydnisevil

  1. Well you don't really need 100% seal, a minuscule amount of air isn't going to matter. With these engines, we are just making the best of a bad situation. Can you justify spending that amount of money on this motor? Why not just put it towards a SR20. If you want a fool proof system you have to go EFI, there is no which way around it. Haha true, half the enjoyment is doing things yourself :) I can justify spending money on this car, not because I think it will be a machine.. But because I enjoy the project :)
  2. Read or seen? Alot of talk on forums, often like chinese whispers. I just want to steer clear of housing up a carby, youd probably loose alot of flow if its not designed well. Well iv decided to sit at 12psi for now, the float should be more than up to it :) Iv ordered my reg and pump, so now we wait :)
  3. Well the problem is you need to find a side-draft designed for blowthrough.. The DGV webers had all the vents inside the mouth of the carby, so you can just use a hat opposed to encasing the whole carburettor. yeaa more or less, didnt want to have a long J-pipe have a turbo hanging around and then having the downpipe being more complex than it had to be etc. When you move the throttlebody away from the motor, you loose throttle response. Wanted to make sure that at least the turbo would spin up quickly. Granted originally the plan was to make an exhaust manifold as well. Ill buy one later, not a necessity. I can place it anywhere on the cooler pipes. Looked into that, but the saws not designed for metal, and I really don't want to ruin my dads saw :P He has a proper metal one at work as far as I know, if he didn't I would just change the blade. Worst case, ill take it to an exhaust joint and ask them to chop chop :) Nooo lol, its a normal setup. Having the IC before the turbo will do jack shit, you'd be attempting to cool atmospheric temps with atmospheric temperature air :P Turbo -> Cooler -> Carby -> Manifold -> Engine
  4. Turbo location.. New manifold was necessary. And as origional plan was suck through I wanted to keep all pipes as short as possible to counteract the TB being further away.
  5. Re-located the boost bleeder yet again :P Iv moved the gauge tap in to the manifold itself opposed to the turbo, its not very useful to know what kind of pressure is being put out, but not when its arriving or how much is reaching the engine. Iv got a fitting and ran it off the booster line (Before check valve) Manifold is now ready for plate to be welded on Which will eventually looks something like Yet this remains my biggest issue Clearance... and thats not even closed.. First click and its ALMOST hitting, with no room for a turbo hat. I'm going to use a dropsaw and cut a section of the legs out at a 30deg slice (So it will sit verticality countering the bank of the engine) The first step is to find a saw as ours is only for wood :( Ohh and bought a exhaust flange and flexi, so will continue that when I rip the downpipe out next.
  6. Managed to source a proper nitrophyl for my weber, so iv picked that up today :) (Ill set the float level when its ready to go together) Ye old carburetion device-a-magig: I went for this series of weber because the vents are in the top, and you don't need to encase the whole thing; just need a hat. Which I will probably end up making, not gonna spend $250 on a square bit of metal. Ye modern float: Once running it will be as fast as this: Wishful thinking? I think not... :P I'm also in the process of ordering an Bosch 070 EFI pump and carby fuel pressure regulator :) So depending how my finances go they should be in my possession within the next few weeks. Next step (after parts acquired) Shorten manifold runners so it doesn't hit the bonnet :P and weld the carby plate to the log somehow.
  7. Looking a little better :) Found a pre threaded rod, so I just cut it to length.
  8. Haha I know :( *Shameful face* Not feeling 100% so wanted to pack up for the night. I WILL neaten them up with the die-grinder this weekend, its never gonna look pretty, but ill do my best dag nabbit :P It wont matter too much once I line it with u-mould, should look much neater. http://www.pixmania.ie/ie/uk/2505518/art/sunbeam/soft-rubber-u-molding-2m.html Well I wanted a 32/36 weber, but the one the wrecker gave me was a 34ADM. No biggie, just means I need new floats so I'm looking into that now. I could go back and have at them for giving me a product I did not ask for but I don't think its worth it.
  9. I now has a plate that the my weber will eventually bolt up to, the holes are cut out and just need to tap the threads (Will do at work tomorrow) Mounting it to my manifold will be fun ... :P Anywho I mate the two other brackets for the intercooler, and cut the holes for the pipes... Its not a pretty thing hacking holes in your front wall with an angle grinder/die grinder.. but well there are only a few ways to skin a cat. Example pipes only, not actually cut to shape. Not my best work, but I was bargaining with the things around it for space :P Ohh yea up for sale is a HIF44 SU if anybody wants it. Ill put it up on ebay in a few weeks (When I can be arsed :P) But if anybody wants it its just sitting there.
  10. Cheers mate :) Would have liked to go into further details but always get carried away when I'm in the middle of something and forget to document it :P Actually 4 welders :P 1: Some old crappy MIG I borrowed from ford next door (We don't do much welding so its some ancient thing) 2: Oxy/acc kit at my step-dads work (Manifold end caps) 3: 'MIGOMAG' welder we have at home (Majority of the welding) 4: Some guy down the road at an exhaust joint did the stuff while we were waiting for new tips for ours (The top pipe on the manifold and the wastegate blastpipe)If I ever get my exhaust done on my DD, I'm going to him.. did an awesome job :)
  11. Cheers :) Getting there! Mercedes ML350 CDI Bought a carby the other day, and have filled the floats so they wont crush excessively under pressure :) (While managing to get expanda foam in my eye :P) To be fair I did try and find proper nitrophyl floats, but could not locate them for the 34ADM weber's. If anybody know's where to get some, would REALLY appreciate that. Its from a XF falcon and apparently they used to be replaced when converting to LPG. Iv started to make the adapter plate that I can weld to the manifold, will drill it tomorrow at work Ill put it back together tomorrow or the following day once its 110% dry. Then the process of modifying the manifold :/ (Shortening and welding adapter plate to the manifold)
  12. Been struggelin to find a 32/36 weber for a reasonable price, all the decent ones people are asking on average around $150-200... Stupid thing is I can buy a brand spanker from the US with an electric choke for ~$250 posted! So I'm deciding if I want to spend the extra $$ and get a brand new one..hmmmm. Will go to a wrecker tomorrow and see if there is any decent ones there. Anywho, Iv changed the coolant lines going to the turbo. Decided that the vibrations will one day cause the aluminium to give way, and my mate has some 9.5mm copper pipe. So I went ahead and made new ones :) Because I'm going blowthrough now, Iv gone and got a free intercooler :) So I cleaned her out (came off a turbo diesel) and begun mounting it. Let me just say that its such a good fit its not even funny! Any longer and it wouldnt fit, any taller and it would hit the headlights; its just about spot on! So iv made two of the mounts so far, and will make the lower ones sometime tomorrow or the following weekend. Still need to cut the hole for the pipes :)
  13. Already has a 2.5" 'exhaust' ;)
  14. Looking that way :( :) Wont rush in to it, want to get some other bits and peices finished first. I can still keep it draw through for the moment. Haha nahh mate, GT35R ;) :P Ohh and for anybody that is interested, the wideband works fantastical :D Idles hot at around 13-14 (depends what I have it set at) But when the flood gates open up it goes past 10:1 :P Better rich than sorry I suppose :)
  15. Its possible yes, but I would imagine there would still be vacuum at that part of the turbo. My thought of recent have been to convert to blow through, this vacuum crank idea is a temp solution; iv decided its too much of a band-aid to leave that way in the long run. I found a carby already with the correct floats and only requires a hat. As for modifications required to the current set-up for this conversion, well I will just shorten the runners on the manifold and get a low pressure fuel pump. I can weld on the carby plate to the manifold and manufacture the top hat. The advantage of doing it later is I can still drive it around and muck around while building my carby and hat plates etc.
  16. Ok well then I appreciate your input, but what you think I can do about it? Its installed an running fine, I am not going to spend time and money to replace it without good reason. You say its restrictive, and yet the starlets didn't have a problem with top end.. in fact my mate who owns one said that when the fun began. Iv posted dyno graphs at varying PSI's a page or so back, and they don't taper off much at all.. If it flows enough for a higher revving modern DOHC engine, it fine for my shitty old, low revving, 2 valve engine :) (Haha well actually I don't have a tacho, so I can't tell :P I am assuming its no higher than 6000-7000rpm that the GT's are capable of.) Yes there are bigger and better turbo's out there that will work, but I aint changing it without a good reason. Especially if I don't plan to keep this motor for a long period. Anywho I found a way to stop oil being sucked in through the compressor seals :) Well two actually! In case I have not mentioned it, if I let the car idle (Hot) for say a minute, when I revved it up I would have lots of lovley smoke come out the 'exhaust' :P After looking at carbon seals and deeming having them retroffited far too expensive, spent most of last night devising a plan of attack. What I did today (as to not wake up the neighbour last night :P) was hook the vacuum cleaner up to my rocker cover :P The theory was that if I could create a low pressure in the turbo housing (via the crankcase/sump) equal or greater than manifold vacuum, there would be no reason for it to be drawn in the intake; it would simple follow the path of least resistance. Well it worked :) 4 minutes at idle, and not a smidgen of smoke when it revved up. The two ways to fix this 1: Get an air pump and place the crankcase under vacuum, like as tested with the vacuum cleaner.. Would work, id rather have this as plan B. Upon thinking of appropriate pumps to do this job, I remembered diesels have vacuum pumps for the brake booster etc.. *Lightbulb* We had an alternator from a diesel truck in the shed, with the pump on the back :) Found the alternator and had a look at the pump. Well it appears to be a rotary vane pump and it had A LOT of oil in it. Being a diesel they have stacks of oil in the intake system. Well, this must have been designed to have oil going through it, maybe not high volumes but it still worked just fine. 2: Have the drain come straight down into the pump, and it will be pushed out the other side into the sump :) If its not up the job, well low pressure crankcase (Plan B) Well in short, I'm hoping the pump will create a low pressure in the housing, as well as allowing oil to pass through. Because its mechanicaly driven, it should be fine coping with the increase in volume at higher RPM. I will have to do some testing, see if it creates enough vacuum and will allow liquid to pass through. As far as I know, I'm the first to do this :S Race cars run vacuum in the crankcase, but that's to create a better piston seal and reduce wind age. I have never heard of somebody using vacuum to balance the pressures inside a turbo. Granted this was an after thought :P I did think it would suck some oil, but certainly not the amount it is.
  17. Mate give me a break, its a correctly sized turbo for that engine capacity. I can't run an intercooler so I wanted something that will compress the air efficiently; itl do just fine.
  18. According to who? CT12 left CT9 Right http://img374.imageshack.us/img374/7229/img4887a2cj.jpg http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/9498/img4842a3pl.jpg
  19. Absolutely, it cold starts like a dream with the choke :) can't wait :)
  20. Throttle and choke cable are done. I couldn't do it the way I wanted (down along the manifold) but the heat would cause problems. We welded together a sterdy bracket and the its all hooked up (As you may have guessed given I drove the car last week :P) My new wide-band gauge arrived today, and its the gauge itself is now installed :) Sensor test with brake cleaner in a rag My oil issue is being addressed this weekend. Spoke to somebody who has done many draw through setup, and what he did was reduce the oil pressure. He has tapped and installed a grubscrew in the fitting for me, and is drilling a small hole out today. I wont be running the car again (with the O2 installed) until this has been addressed. I am not about to ruin the oxy by smothering it in oil. In my search for carbon seals, it turns out that I can upgrade to a CT12 with no alterations :) I don't think It will happen, but its good to know. I wouldn't waste my time modifying for a different turbs, ill just try and start saving for a Windsor or rover V8 :) LS1 would be sweet, but will be a tighter fit than its 60degree alternatives :) Umm I re-braised the inlet pipe (correctly this time) If you compare to older photos, you can see that this time it has bonded to both plates. But I as still going to make a bracket from the turbo to the carby to reduce any vibration.
  21. It kinked a little, but that's only because my pipe-bender didnt have a 10mm wheel. It just looks that way because I attempted to flatten them out a little :) It just looks funkier than it actually is :P I assure you they flow just fine, I had the outlet going into a container when I did the first test. Has more than enough coming through :) I will hopefully but the ARF gauge this week sometime, and be able to see whats happening in terms of fuel. The radiator is out for repair at the moment, but I have fixed the carby-turbo pipe :) Ohhh and mounted the choke cable today as well :)
  22. And..... I drove it today :D Throttle cable setup done and took her for a drive to the petrol station :) It was only only 5 psi because I don't have the AFR gauge yet (This week me thinks) Anywho its back apart again, I have a radiator to patch up :) Few bits and pieces to do now: * I'm getting the carby to turbo pipe TIG welded (The old brazing was leaking) * Bracket for the carby to stop it shaking (wont be hard) * Wideband O2 gauge (This week maybe?) * Exhaust flange so I can continue the exhaust, I can't have it all one peice * Radiator leak I also will need to get carbon seals put in the turbo, figured this would be a problem but hoped for it not to be an issue :P The only reason it needs it is when I sit still too long, it sucks the oil into the turbo and I get a nice plume of smoke following the car :P Anywho it has been driven :D
  23. Alrighty then, dad still hadn't done anything yet so I just did it myself :P The coolant lines are complete :) I had to make out of aluminium, because I wouldn't be able to bend steel pipe. If something goes funky ill replace with copper lines and a steel plate, but for now its fine :) The manifold has been installed (with booster line) Personally I think its a bit too red, so I might buy a black silicone joiner to even things out :) The throttle cable remains, and now I have to relocate the bleeder as the coolant lines are in the way (Not difficult) EDIT: Ohh and very annoyingly the AFR gauge was narrow band only, the sensor I have is wide-band. Took it back to auto-barn, they said they will exchange it Tuesday (They don't stock many wide-band gauges, and need to call up to get prices)
  24. Leaks in the manifold welded, painting completed :) (Drying on the pot belly as I type) Got the wastegate outlet welded today, photo only of when it was recently done not mounted. It was raining and I wasnt gonna stand outside any longer than I had to :P Ohh Invested in an AFR gauge :) Excuse the mount, I was seeking alternatives to the pod. It dosn't look nice, so Ill just go with the good old pod. Got the nut for the oxygen sensor, but not yet mounted. Hopefully will have it fully wired up this weekend. Spent too much money today, gonna be in struggle town for the remainder of this week :( lol.
  25. Ok I changed my mind, moddifying SU's is a pain in the ass !! :P I'm trying to find out what type mine is and its a nightmare. ID like to run a service kit through it, or a needle and jet at the least. But to find what needle I need I need to know the model not to mention if and where about I'm running rich/lean :P They put part numbers on their products that don't reference to the actual product :( lol. Umm the manifold has its little piece in for the brake booster, but the rest remains unfinnished :( ET of completion still remains this weekend.
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