Jaydnisevil

Its difficult.. Iv turbocharged my 4k and used a 34 webber but to get the mixtures where I want them iv had to put a 165 Primary and solder the air corrector and re-drill to 100. I'm running 13-15psi at the manifold, its a good carbie once set up right. Mine is still not perfect but its much better. I found in experience and speaking to a few tuners (As well as Webber performance Australia), being such a big carby you will struggle to suck fuel out of the secondaries if you snap the throttle open at low rpm. Which is exactly what was occurring. Itd just lean out and bog down. It just does not have enough airflow to draw the fuel in, I actually disabled my secondaries because it was causing problems. Iv nearly got it 100% mixture wise, just need a dyno to test over a wider range. Might need to tinker with the float level. The main advantage is there are tonns of books on them given they were used in the XF.

Ok spent quite a few hours trying to solve this bloody starter issue. First things first, the relay seems to operate. I then plugged a test wire into the solenoid. Straight to 12v and of course it worked perfectly every time. so I did a resistance check tracing it further and further up the system. In the end I was putting 12 volts straight to the relay output which was also working perfectly. I did however find a fix that seems to help it about 90%, I supplied a direct 12V source to the starter button opposed to the factory 12V supply. I also noted that the resistance of the ground wire was around 5-6 Ohmhs, where as all the other small ones around were 0.1-0.6ohms. I'm now just about convinced its a gremlin in the wiring, it did this even when it was bog stock. One curiosity was I checked a terminal on the power board on the driver side foot well, when all but ignition 2 was switched on there was a low resistance to ground. But as soon as Ig2 was switched it had 12volts. I also noted that the voltage flowing through the starter relay suffered quite a drop, would hold about 9 volts, may have something to do with it as well. When I have some more time, or if it still is an issue, I will replace that relay with a newer 4pin one and wire in my old ground for it. Should fix things. But its better now.. At least its starting every button push, just lacks power and crunches every now and then.

Starter is back together and in the car. All I did was take off the solenoid and clean up the high amperage switch. Was quite a lot of crap on the contacts. Now though there are more confusing issues... When testing outside the car, there were no issues. It would snap into life every single time I applied power. In the car I'm getting a crunching noise, and the same issue where it would only start once every 3-15 button pushed. So that leaves me with a few possibilities.. My most suspicious theory: Wiring not allowing the solenoid to energize correctly (Voltage drop, corroded wiring) This could explain why there is a grinding noise when it is turning as it may not be correctly engaged, or popping in and out. Or that because the gear is say hitting the flywheel, it cannot extend enough to give power.. Now I did notice that the bearing at the top of the starter was just shy of being completely buggered, it was hardly free to turn. I don't know if that increased resistance will stop the teeth twisting a percentage of the time and hence its hitting the flywheel. Given it would be much easier to test the first idea, ill just hook up a different trigger straight to 12V and see the success rate of start-up. Hopefully its just that. Probably should have checked the starter relay first :P Will check when its not pissing down with rain. On my test drive with the roads somewhat wet from earlier, I accidentally discovered it spins the rear 215's (around that mark, I can't recall) in second in a straight line :) Not my intention but good to know the turbo is doing its job :P What I was actually trying to do was determine why it bogs down a little when I go what at low rpm. Hard to tell given my O2 has just died (More below) Could be a float level thing, could be lack of a pump, ill need to investigate but at least the mid-high is working just fine :) Lastly my replacement (used) O2 sensor just died earlier. It started reading very different to yesterday.. Originally I thought maybe the colder air could be leaning things out, or I didn't have a hose connected. As I got home to pack up its just flat-lining.. Wayy past 17:1 Looks like ill have to buy another one :( Lol serves me right for being a cheap shit and wiring in a spare :P

Starters out and apart, bit of a bastard to get out but not as bad as I had though. Just needed to drop the down-pipe and the external gate. :)

Its only somewhat recent, we moved into what was our holiday house and are renting out our place in narre warren north. Slowly getting there mate, there will always be more to do :( :P Plug gaps adjusted, turns out my old ones were 1.1 and the temporary ones I had were (nearest makes no difference) 0.8mm I tinkered with the timing a tad, restricting and bleeding off air. I found a level where there was no pinging, but it was just gutless in comparison. Its still too hot for all of this me thinks, hard to test and diagnose. Still need to buy some octane booster and colder plugs. ill try and organize for it to be put on the dyno at some point so I can tune it. My new tafe have a low power dyno, so ill speak to them when I go in next. I'm moving to the little things slowly now as most of the main issues are fixed. The throttle is still a bit sticky down low, iv taken up the slack which has helped but it needs some work. Still need to restrict that boost source, I changed the location but it didn't really help. I think I saw 13 maybe 14 earlier today. I need to adjust my idle mixtures so there is no hesitation on take high throttle take off, never used to do that so it will need adjustment. The mixtures are perfect, the highest I saw was 13.4:1 :) Ohh I replaced the O2 sensor.. After soaking in fuel all night, it came good momentarily but gave up shortly after. Luckily I had a spare I got from work that I connected up. Feel much more confident in the readings now :) Now the only major problem to come up was the starter; who was on its last legs, decided to give up today. Originally (especially in the heat) it would click and attempt to engage a few times but not turn on. If you continued pushing, you'd get it to come to life. Now there is no more clicking. Ill have to pull it apart and see whats wrong. Hopefully its repairable. I'm more concerned about getting the thing out.. I swore never to take my manifold off again, might get away with just removing the external gate. Fingers crossed. Need a few gaskets to stop small oil leaks from the turbo oil supply joint and from the spark plug cups. Nothing major, just a gradual build up that is displeasing. Other than the above its all coming together :)

165 jet is in and sweet Jesus there is an improvement!! :) Drives so much better and pulls harder :) Its still wayy too hot tonight, its pinging at anything above 7psi even with 98RON. Need to buy some more octane booster (If it does anything) Next step, tinker with the waste gate a little more. With my grub screw idea I'm up to 11-12psi, but not my full 15. Need to change the source of the air to the manifold for the lower half of the gate. Should help in spool up as well. Its sitting around 12.4-12.8:1 :D Tomorrow will be adjusting the plug gap from 1.1 to 0.8mm I spoke to somebody Friday who had a Blowthrough RX7 who maintained that the change from 1.1 to 0.8mm just about fixed his detonation. I'm fairly certain its to do with this heat and possibly timing. But can't hurt to check :D May also need a colder range plug now that I think of it. So happy :)

LOLZ, drilled the jet out to 2mm today. WAYYY RICH! Stumbling, missing and not revving. Iv ordered the jets I believe I need. Just did this to determine what the upper limit was. Was drilled with a 1.55mm, and I have ordered a 165 and a 170 primary jet. Will see how that goes :) Given 155 was around 17:1 at 10psi and off the scale at 15psi I think 165 will be perfect, if not I have one step up from that :)

More development in my boost issue. Struggled to find a check valve at the major auto stores, so instead just ran the reference line to the turbo compressor housing opposed to the manifold. Will this hurt my spool time? Possibly, the manifold will pick up the pressure after the gate does, but it seems to be ok. Any-who I found that it was opening with too little pressure because the valve was being assisted open by the exhaust pressure. Solution, restrict the line to the lower half of the gate, while allowing the top half to receive the full 15psi (Holding shut). So I found a miniscule hose from a can of upper engine cleaner, and jammed that inline with the hose and bam! fixed. So now I need a more permanent solution. I was thinking along the lines of tapping my brass tee and putting a grub screw inside with a hole drilled through it. Will just use my 1mm or 1.5mm drill bit if I can find them :/ Ohh and the hat seals perfectly now :D Thank you very much selly :D

Its alright, I solved today :) Bought some Metal bonding putty http://www.selleys.com.au/putty/epoxy/knead-it-steel Cleaned the area, formed it in the shape I wanted and it goes rock solid (And fast) Iv re-sealed the hat to the carby (had to remove to shape it correctly) and am waiting for the sealant to dry before testing.

Would really appreciate ideas on how to solve my square peg in round hole conundrum. Tomorrow I'm going to try deforming some automotive plastic intake ducting to slip over the end. If that does not work I'm not sure what else I can do. Running out of ideas here.

Source of boost issue fixed :) As I had hoped, it was the wastegate and boost leaks. Long story short I need a 1 way check valve. My boost reference lines are sourced from the manifold, hence it gets both vacuum and pressure. I clamped the lower wastegate hose when at just over atmospheric pressure, and released on boost. Sure enough 15psi maintaining at the manifold :) Exactly what I wanted. Now as for the boost leaks. Its all coming from the circle -> rectangle join at the hat. I'm either gonna have to spring for a proper hat and modify the baseplate for a 34 opposed to a 32/36. Iv got it under control for now, but its not reliable, every now and then ill loose pressure or blow the hose right off. *Correction* Was the check valve inside the boost Tee bleeder, I removed that and all is well, fully adjustable. I still want a check valve further up because I'm not sure how the vacuum will effect the wastegate; even if its equal on both sides. I still really struggling to hold the pressure in the carby with that cursid join, I keep braking worm-drive clamps keeping the pressure on it. I'm back at 11-12psi because I can't hold it in :/

Been a while since I popped the bonnet on ye old rolla. Today after work decided to do some troubleshooting, mainly the boost leaks. Long story short I re-designed the part that seals against the carby hat. I still want a better solution, but for now its better than it was. I have no idea how to make a round peg fit in a square hole :/ Iv got all tomorrow to sort that out, ill so some researching tonight. Maybe plumbing adapters for spouting? don't know if they will supply them in the dimensions I need.. This is where it would be amazing to have a 3D printer! Secondly (May have mentioned previously) but I have allowed some air to bleed itself from the boost retard pod to stop so much timing being pulled. I had a though though, given my waste-gate spring is only 3.6psi, I could just tee into that. Ill check tomorrow how much 3.6psi pulls the timing with a pressure tester. Any who its much nicer to drive now, pulls considerably harder. Still needs fine tuning, Also the mixtures go too lean above 5psi and quite a bit too lean after an extended period on boost (That'd be jets that are a fraction too small at a guess.) Some bad news, my O2 sensor has had a fit. Probably due to the oil from when it was draw-through setup. Ill take it out, soak in petrol and if that does not fix ill have to buy another :( Now a strange anomaly, on my road test tonight I found that even with the wastegate hose disconnected I'm only getting 9-10psi at the manifold. Now maybe this is due to the small passage through the carby (one throat is open only) and that's all that can squeeze past. Or maybe its just because of the pressure drop through the inter-cooler and everything, and the turbo could be putting out a much more desirable pressure. I'm not at the turbo's limit just yet for two reasons: One alot of the starlet guys are running 14psi+ (might be turbo pressure readings) And two, there is no drop off of boost pressure at the higher RPM's. If it were running out of puff, id see a loss of pressure as the airflow requirements increase. Now, hopefully this 10psi issue is because my crappy little waste-gate spring isn't doing its job correctly, I can test for this by applying a light vacuum to the waste-gate, holding it shut. I want to think its this because the standard manifold directs gas downward directly at the wastegate valve. However I don't think this will be the issue as I had a plate blocking it some time ago and didnt see more than 10psi (granted I backed off because of pinging) if not: Boost leaks (Re-design carby hat adapter and piping) if not: Setup (can only test by removing inter-cooler.) if not: exhaust manifold design is limiting flow. *EDIT* Brilliant idea, I can remove my cable for the secondaries and in place have a reasonably stiff spring. Under light throttle or boost (Or even vacuum) it will not open. But once under pressure it would be forced open. Ideally I would like a pod to actuate it open once x pressure has been achieved. The mechanical linkage was a terrible setup, definitely better without it. Rather scary moment when on the way back home I lost all boost pressure, thought something had gone catastrophically wrong. Turns out I just blew a hose off :P reaching about 9psi. Note that my focus was not to record, Its hard to keep the camera vibration free while your hand is firmly grabbing the steering wheel and the camera as a second. Also note that the speedo is reading about 10-14kph lower if out if you recall me mentioning earlier. Ohh and No I wasnt speeding :) found a nice 80-100-80 road down towards the next suburb, near the transfer-station :)

Rye not Melbourne but Victoria yes.

Yes I know that works well, but given I was going to work (a path I know) it skipped my mind. Iv already done calculations yesterday at work.. and they did not end up in my favor :( Ohh well, one in 4 years isn't bad :) Especially considering it was not directly my fault, granted I did wonder why everybody was driving so slow that morning :P

Reliability win Drove it to Doncaster and back on Friday :) Few things to address, mixtures need to be a tad richer being held on boost (currently between 14-15:1 depending on boost level) Cruise need's to be leaned up HEAPS! 10:1 the whole way, probably used 15L of fuel one way :/ Thermo fans needed, temperature creeps up in traffic. Had to keep a slow roll going to maintain it in the low half. Bigger air filter, just put one on as a temp solution and it's making strange induction noises now :P (Its a K&N 1.5" opening for a catch/can from a R34) Few little things to fix, the exhaust (Nearly finnished) need's to be tweaked. The only problem is I may have inadvertently gotten my first speeding ticket :( After getting off east-link, I recalled that larger wheels will in-fact make my car go faster than what is being read. Kinda sucks considering I did not speed once the whole trip according to my speedometer :(

Quite a bit done today and yesterday. Getting annoyed at the detonation I decided to rip the dizzy out again (With intention of taking it to an ignition specialty store) Well I kinda got drawn in to the whole "Hmm I wonder if I did this" So out came the dizzy, pulled it apart. Decided not to bend the mechanical tabs any more in case they snapped. But when I was re-assembling, I was looking at the Vac advance pod... One thing let to another and I ended up getting the angle-grinder and sawing the top off. Pulled the spring out, filed the tabs off to allow the rod to go back into the pod. Cut off about 3-4 coils and wound the spring in on the other side. I lose some of the smaller pieces but that's about what you need to remove. Got out ye old vacuum/pressure tester, put my thumb over the hole I had cut and applied 3,5 and then 10psi to it and sure enough the rod moved :) Now there was a hole in the top of the pod, I considered soldering it closed, but was afraid that the heat would melt the diaphragm. Luckily, on one of my impulse buys I bought a product called "Sugru" Its basically a play-doh that you can mold, is somewhat adhesive and turns solid a silicone in 24 hours. Put a bit of hose in the hole to give it a good base, applied the putty and let set over night :) When I went to attach it to the dizzy, I found that the base-plate did not rotate far enough to meet the arm. Some modification was needed in terms of filing to allow that further rotation. In hindsight probably could have just left it and pulled the arm out to meet, wasn't necessary. Dizzy back in, 0ish degrees base advance, hook everything else up and took her for a drive. Sure enough no more detonation :) Was not making much power though so I bumped it to around 10degrees. Much better :) Still some fine tuning to do but it feels much better :) The rest was just de-ghettoing, I removed the cable-ties holding my secondaries throttle shut and after much thinking I made a small mechanism that will hold her nice and tightly shut. The wires go through the plate, held by that bolt clamp (Has a hole drilled through it) and is tensioned by the worm drive clamp. Still need a Tee in 5/16 to hook up my PCV system. Very short clip

Waste-gates fixed :) Two piece problem The first was incorrect hose setup (Well it was correct, but couldn't bleed off enough air) Second: A ball valve in the Bleeder Tee I originally had it set up so pressure was bled off from the lower part of the external gate. Meaning it didn't actually receive what was being produced. This was a nice, neat solution but clearly not working. My current thought is that it could not bleed the air off fast enough. Now I have made it so the lower half get's a clean supply from the turbo, and a bled supply to the top. I am able to open the bleeder to release some of the air holding the gate shut allowing me to customise my boost level. When I first ran this setup, same issue.. 3psi and that was all it could muster. So I removed the ball valve in the bleeder tee thinking it was restricting my supply to the top of the gate. Straight away (Bleeder shut) Full 10psi and all the pinging I could ask for :P I really need to address that, Ill whack some fuel in it this weekend and see if she's any better. If not, I need to look into boost retard pods or getting it re-graphed. I would like to see if simply using a smaller supply line (Or putting a restrictor in line) to the lower half and venting the top to atmosphere will have the same effect. If I do indeed need a signal to the top of the gate to ensure it stays closed, then so be it.. But If I keep this setup, I will need more hose to neaten things up. Its still looks like a Thai telephone pole :P

Re-soldered the air corrector shut and drilled with a 1mm drill bit. Mixtures appear exactly where I want them now :) Again, cannot be certain until I go for a full road test at speeds above 50kph. Still pinging it's head off in this heat, will do more testing/diagnosis when the temps drop. I reckons its going to be the timing, but it could also be the fuel. I ALWAYS put 98 in my cars, however its been in there a while now and petrol usually starts to lose its anti knock additives from about 4 weeks. I may have the equivalent of 95 or 91 in there now :/ Still can't bring myself to drive to the servo given the amount of police about at the moment. UPDATE: Another test drive just now, much cooler. Still sounds like its pinging (Hard to tell given the exhaust is so bloody loud :P) I'm contributing that to the fuel and or timing. The A/F is pretty much perfect at loads and RPM in second below 60kph (Found a 60 road close to home) Needs a full tank of 98 and an exhaust before I can correct this issue further.

Did a basic wheel alignment with a tape measure today, it at least drives in a straight line now. Much less terrifying to drive :P Removed, disasembled and restricted the max mechanical advance. Re installed and set base timing to 5-7deg for now. Took for another drive but can't get more than 10psi below 50kph without hooning up the street. I'm not gonna tear down my street for the sake of testing. Itl have to wait till my exhaust is done and then I can take it down the main road. That and my mixtures aint right, still leaning wayyy off up top. I drilled the main jet out slightly (From 140 to 155, the only drill bit I had) and I reduced the air correction from 160 to 155. By the way its behaving, I think I need a much smaller air correction jet. Ill see what I can do. Still need to address wastegate spring issue. Exhaust Mixtures Niggly shit: When stationary today for a while it was getting bloody hot, Ill look into getting a thermo fan. Need to remove the mechanical pump and mount the fuel pump under the car near the tank.

Long time since iv posted, but were back in action. Iv been on a holiday, moved house and will shortly be starting a new job. Lots going on so been busy. Any-who iv solved/discovered the cause to two of the issues that I was having. The first was that strange noise on boost that sounded like a siren. The second was the inability to make more than 6-7psi of boost. What was happening was air was escaping out the bush where the choke arm goes into the hat, so iv had to remove the choke and plug it up. On boost it was just being forced out the slit like a kazoo :P Ill see how it goes with a cold start, but I think I might be ok. Now, the limited boost: That was the waste-gate at fault there. The pressure in the manifold it was pushing the gate open, despite me routing the pressure to the other side of the diaphragm. Solution, well a couple ideas come to mind. Stiffer spring, flip the entry and exit or use a plate and screw to wind the spring further down. I'm leaning towards the first, but $40 for a bit of twisted steel? Come on! :P For the moment (Diagnosis) I just have the gate off and the plate blocked up. I took a small test drive and managed to maintain 10psi at the manifold in second low speed before it started pinging. To be fair its a bloody hot day and I have not touched the ignition timing, nor are the mixtures what I want them at. Remaining: Look at new jets/air correctors. Finish the exhaust. Waste-gate Spring.

Asking any decent torque of a 1.3 carby is like milking a dead cow, id rather spend the money elsewhere. Agreed, and would more than likely be an easier swap. Not to mention plenty around, and reasonably cheap. The only bit that might be somewhat difficult, will be to find one that has not had the ass thrashed out of it :P But Ill start a 'engine saving fund' while 4k is still running, would rather have everything ready to 'drop in'

I got the turbo for next to nothing, so not a huge disappointment. Balance is just shy of $100 Re-build is $300-$400 ish from what iv been quoted. Ill just get it balanced and that will hopefully do. As for a nice BB turbos, ill invest in a good one with the new motor; I can't justify the money on this motor. Iv just gotten the cheapest parts available. Looking at SR20's RB20 or 25's but no rush, ill get this one functioning correctly. Then piss the 4k off on eBay probably.. Again this was all for the experience. Its one thing to do an engine swap, but its another to manufacture a turbo kit :)

Wanted to, tried.. and couldn't. Started damaging the core as we tried to separate them. We covered the wheel with a small cloth and a plate on top of that. Nothing seems to be on it, the turbine looks perfect.. a bit of carbon but nothing unusual. Its the compressor side that looks suss.

Done a few small things since ^^ but can't really remember what else iv done Turbo is off again. Determined the reason I'm not getting over 7psi is turbo malfunction. Came to that conclusion because I measured 7psi at the turbo and 6.5psi at the manifold. I then disconnected my waste-gate and it still stayed at 7psi, I then hooked it up in reverse (Pressure holding it shut)and it still stayed at 7psi. I am fairly certain is due to the blades being out of balance, as the symptoms fit it perfectly. Probably from when we welded the gate shut, or the oil that has clumped up on the compressor wheel from the draw through set-up. That noise I was referring to in the initial video occurs all the time over 3psi of boost. When I have some spare cash (About a week) ill send it away for inspection and re-balancing. Iv put the larger LCA bolts in, didnt take too long (Free) Iv also sourced a small muffler to quieten things up a tad, straight through design; and again a freeby from work :) Iv changed the brake lines to the banjo fittings and re-bled, may have mentioned. Ummm Still having leaning out issues, will need a larger main jet or smaller air correction jet. Have a proper throttle cable bracket now :) I need to modify the carby bracket a tad, Its stiff off throttle. But it works :) Think thats it? :)

Cable tie special gave me a chance to drive it today :) (well its hard when you have one wheel spinning) I wanted to sort out what's happening with this carby before I proceeded any further. So I used a few ties to prevent the temp throttle bracket from flexing, and I supported the 'exhaust' also with ties :P First drive: Shit.. Leaning out, hesitating just crapola. Still suspecting the secondary throat at fault, we remove the arm that pushes it down and cable tied it shut... TIGHT. Well that gave a lovely improvement :) Enough to spin the wheels through 2nd and end up 40 degrees sideways down the street with half throttle (Admittedly it was unintentional, I overestimated the 165's in the wet lol) Anywho mixtures were not bad at half throttle, but at wider throttle openings it still ran around ~17:1 At least it was on the scale this time and not hesitating. I think this is happening because it would have been jetted designed for the second to have opened by that stage. Ima gonna try two things.. Block off the secondary throat by 95% (Plate with a few holes in it) and re-connect the throttle arm so we can draw more fuel in at higher throttle positions via the secondary 'jet' (which I will have to put back in). That or.. swap the bigger secondary jet to the primary and hold the secondary closed permanently. Ima trying option 1 first because its a better test, and its reversible. Its gonna be trial and error untill its right, at which point I will continue with the de-ghetto process. Ohh and I'm running around 6psi at the manifold (I think its Set to 10psi via the bleeder, but who knows) Would be interesting to see the pressure loss from what its making at the turbo. Might hook the gauge up to the turbo outlet and check some day.