ke1x

it's a 30 year old car. the original head probably spat a welsch plug and self destructed long ago. doubt there are many old corollas out there with the original engine in them. 10-15 years ago you could buy japanese import K series motors everywhere. not many people would spend a grand plus for a reconditioned 3k, when they could get a fresh import 5k for around $500. the first jap 4k i bought cost $425. 3k's weren't much over $300. pity you can't get them like that anymore.

maybe just rock up to one that is open and ask???

plus your cold air induction :P

newer ones do. 5ks were produced around 1983-92. KM30/36 liteaces had 5k's. 7k's have the longer stroke. you need to do sump mods on 7k's. at least to go in the earlier ke1x series. may not be such a problem in a later corolla.

no, the stroke is the same between 4k and 5k (73mm). 5k cranks have 4k cast on them. same crank. 5ks have larger bore 80.5mm, k/3k/4k have 75mm bore. just be careful as some 5ks have a thicker flywheel, which can cause clearance problems with some earlier boxes in the bellhousing. you could always use an earlier 4k flywheel if this is a problem. probably not a problem with your later injected 4k. 4k-e isn't it? think the 5k's came standard in vans (liteace?).

i think you will find you would be legally required to meet the ADR requirements of the year of manufacture. think the ADRs started in the early/mid 70's. 1974??? my 73 HQ holden was pre emissions. PCV system only. 75 ke30 ADR plate, but not much in the way of emisions gear. the earlier ke1x series have a simple dump pipe for crankcase emissions. all the blowby is directed down the gearbox tunnel under the car. it's so complex :P haha...sorry, just wanted to try that smiley ! really so long as you do things neatly to pass a visual you should be fine. just make sure anything that needs to be plumbed into the airfilter still is if you change to an aftermarket item. ballbearings work good in vacuum lines.

what's a pollution control? thats why i drive a ke15. pre ADR's

(Wednesday) June 2 - Rollaclub Test'N'Tune---yep, if i get this weber better sorted. (Sunday) June 6 - Rollaclub BBQ Cruise; Hinz Dam--- we'll be there (Sunday) June 13 - All Toyota Day----be there for a look (Sunday) June 20 - Motorkhana 3, Southport--- for sure, so much fun to be had.

pics didn't work :P try these...... probe1 probe2 probe3

had a few hassles getting my son to school this morning. driving along and the car starts spitting and farting like it was running out of juice. the fuel guage was low, so i assumed it had run out of fuel. the car stopped, so we went for fuel. get back, put a tin of fuel in and the car starts first pop. weird, it should have taken longer for the fuel to pump through. anyway it is still doing the same thing. i work out if i give it full throttle and slip the clutch i can still get places. anything below full throttle and it would just die. after i got home i started the car and sprayed carby cleaner around the base gasket, the engine instantly stopped. ah, major vacuum leak. one of the 8 studs on the adapter plate for the DMTT weber had stripped. i found another one long enough to put a nut underneath, problem solved. the car runs so much better, and i can now set about sorting this carb out properly. some pics of my afternoon project below. bit rough, but for the money who cares.

best i've ever done is have a welsch plug blow out of the back of a big port head 3k. happened a week after getting my first car (ke30) on the road. :sad: being young and not really knowing any better at the time i kept going, until it siezed. it started a few minutes later and i kept going, just trying to get home. after 4 seizures (and cooloff periods) i finally made it. the engine wasn't really healthy, but still went. pulling the head revealed badly scored bores. lesson learnt. motor change time.

weird, click on the link and you get a page unavailable. take the "share" out of the URL and it works??

here is a good chapter on carbs, from A. Graham Bells' book "Tuning New Generation Engines for Power and Economy" http://au.geocities.com/ke1x/carb.zip good carb selection and tuning info. Doug

yea, i'd lean the carbied 4ac myself. it's already in your car, and no wiring nightmares. you need to just not mind playing with carbs. you should join the yahoo Carburetedblowers group http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Carburetedblowers/ search through the archives, tells you all you need to know about modifying carbs and fuels systems for blowthru forced induction. basically your options are: to put a carb in a sealed box, and pipe boost to it. or seal the throttle shafts to minimise boost/fuel leakage, and run a carb bonnet. also need to make air bleed mods. seems halving the air bleed area stops carbs going lean under high load boost conditions. you could maybe use your existing carb if you were to put it in a carb enclosure. maybe something more tunable like a 32/36 DGV weber would work better with a few mods. you just would need a high pressure fuel system and rising rate fuel pressure regulator. some twin turbo v8 guys simply use a mechanical pump, and simply pipe boost to below the diaphram, where the vents were. this makes the pump add an extra psi of fuel pressure for every psi of boost. have seen cases of guys using a normal adjustable return style fuel pressure regulator and putting it inside the box, when running a carb enclosure setup. the FPR thinks the boost level is normal atmospheric, so always stays your 4 psi or so above the boost pressure.

i was more refering to the rear suspension setup and diff. looks like an RC car. an L18 might be a bit of a tight fit in a ke15 :) have thought about it previously, have a datto nut friend. mmm DCOEs are nice. sound good too.