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Token

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Everything posted by Token

  1. G'day guys, so me and a mtae took the plunge and grabbed a set of dcf40 dellortoes to replace our aging 32/36. The probelms wever encountered have been numerous, mainly in the way of vacuum leak. the redline mainfold, whilst it does fit, it doesnt fit without fouling on our extractors, and we bent two manifold studs last time we placed the manbifold on the car and torqued it up. So, I have machined the intake manifold to fit on the head without fouling, and the mainifold itself has been machined to the extractor thickness yet I'm still getting the increasing revs after closing the throttle that indicate a lean run / vacuum leak. What i really want to know is, to fit twin sidedraughts, what was required with regards too jetting and machining of the manifold? (machining mostly, our jetting shouldn't be too far off... we have the book) TLDR. Have you run twin sidedraughts and if so, what did you have to modify on the manifold to make it work? Cheers, Token
  2. Try Harris Engines in ozzy park.
  3. So, a while back I was given an EWP80, made by Davies Craig, moves 80l / min and meant I could remove my water-pump, liberating most likely, about 1/2 a horsepower. So, as you do, I installed it, set it too run continuously, and drilling out my water-pump impeller in the process. Now I don't currently have the electric pump controller, so I wired it up to run continuously, which is fine, except, its too bloody effective. The instructions said that when running continuously in a raod car, it was best to drill a 5mm hole in the thermostat, which I assume in to alleviate any pressure buildup (as it's a positive displacement pump?) but now, i can drive the old ke30 for a good 15 - 20minutes untill it even shows as warm (80 degrees). I have another thermo, but I've held off swapping it, because I mistakenly thought the temp sender was on the outlet side of the thermo housing. after looking tonight, I've realized its not, but I'f i swap to a non drilled thermo, do I risk burning out the pump, or bursting the rad lines due to pressure buildup? The standard pump is a non displacement, but... the electric I'm not so sure about. The temperature gauge is an aftermarket smiths unit, and pretty reliable from all accounts, but the corolla doesn't feel like its driving cold... which due to an encounter with perths 'carby' bloke, is pretty easy to determine due to him removing the choke. anyone got any experience with electric water pumps on the old k engines? should I swap back to an undrilled thermo, and see if it heats up properly, or maybe drill a smaller bypass hole?
  4. It depends what your actually getting with your 32/36 with "everything" needed. Because if its just a standard 32/36 they are generally tuned for 1.8-2l engines (Ford pinto's). I drilled a hole into my 32/36 adaptor and tapped a 5/16th hose barb and just run the PCV outlet into that, mainly to stop the engine spitting oil everywhere (which it does if you don't connect the PCV to vacuum but still have a breather)
  5. Alright, as mentioned above, you need an adaptor plate and an aircleaner. Also, your better off running the PCV gear, as it stops the engine spewing oily gas all over your engine bay. To fit the weber you need an adaptor plate, so drill and tap that adaptor plate to fit a hose barb, and run the pcv off that. Then, your going to want to rejet the carb smaller to suit the 4k. something like 130-135 jets and 190-195 air correction is a good starting point.(If you care enough I can find out exactly the jets in my weber, whilst unintoxicated, to give you a starting point) Once you've decided the carby doesn't do enough, bore the 4k, throw a big cam in, deck the head and drop a set of extractors on. because YOLO, right? (that's right kids, I'm hip as shit) Tok(e's)
  6. G'day Fella's My Girlfriend made me a shirt for my Birthday last year, and Its pretty sweet, sweet enough a few mates with ke's have been nagging me for the image she used so they can order one, so I figured I'd post it on here as well. http://www.redbubble.com/people/dawso12/works/9954553-1978-toyota-corolla?body_color=white&p=t-shirt&print_location=front&style=mens the image was of the 'Rolla hammering through a set of S's at the local khana course and came up a treat. enjoy Token (p.s apparently website sizes are on the small side)
  7. well, Do the exhaust, take it to your local shop and have a chat to them. Nothing bigger then 2", probably 1.75" and a nice muffler. lets be honest, 4k's don't so much growl as squeal when you boot them, soo your better off just aiming for a 'nice tone'. Then, do your cam, and with the money you've got for the carby, buy rings, bearings and gaskets and give the engine a hone and then bolt it back together. Having a solid engine that'll last is worth more then a carby and if it goes it'd probably just lunch your new cam anyways. ... and then save a few more $$, and buy a carby, or just get the stock one tuned by someone who knows what there doing, and you have a sweet 'rolla.
  8. G'day Fella's, I am having some problems with my carby leaking fuel from the base, between the carb and the adaptor plate. (weber 32/36 on a redline adaptor to stock intake) I had the damn thing tight as a whistle, but then removed it to wrap the headers and can't get it to seal again, I'v tried using gasket paper, Loctite #2 and stag (stag might be an odd choice, but its worked for me before) so far, but they've all just been eaten away by the fuel and my local Repco guy is adamant that there isn't anything better then loctite number 2 /rollseyes. Just wondering what those of you using weber dvg's with adaptor plates are running?, though if you are aware of a fuel proof gasket maker then feel free to let me know. I'm thinking maybe Hylomar, but I have it in my head that Hylomars more of a mating face to mating fae application, and given the adaptors a redline, I doubt its going to work without a piece of gasket paper. Cheers, Token
  9. Best thing to do about the Headlights is get rid of all the stock wiring and run new relays to a set of semi-sealed beams. Worked for me, running 55/100w globes and a set of 100w driving lights and I had no trouble crossing the Nullabor in the wee hours of the morning. (that said, I generally saw more roo's on my way to work in Canberra in a day then i did driving from Canberra to Perth) The carby issue's sound like it just wants a tune. I can't say I've been overly successful with mine, but I keep chipping away at it in the hope that one day I'll figure it all out. The best thing to do is get a air/fuel meter and use that, but I've never actually done it, so... Anyways, My hot 4k bogs down a little on takeoff's, used to be a heap worse, but I dropped the size of the accelerator pump 'shot' and that helped, It seems to me that when you hit the throttle, the squirt of fuel gets to the engine before it starts sucking in more air, turning it rich for a second, making it bog. I have a stumble at about 2800rpm which iam lead to believe is my idle jet leaning out before my main jet 'comes on'. But by 4000 RPM your the carby should be just using the main jet, maybe try a richer main jet and bigger air correction jets? From my limited understanding (Please, someone who actually knows, correct me if I'm wrong) the Carby has 3 'phases' of operation. Idle, which is tuned using the idle jet, Mid-range, tuned using the Main jet, and High RPM, whereby your tuning the air corrector jets to avoid running rich. Atleast, thats what I've read so far regarding the webber. How much help it is to you with the stock carby, I really don't know.
  10. Alrighty, so i thieved a coil from my housemates '86 Track car, and it works sweet, so I'll run that till my MSD gets here (GMJ85, thanks for the offer, but I actually have a mate coming back from the US in a few weeks, and I've arranged with him to bring me back some goodies, inclusive a CDI). How does one go about checking the dwell time with a multimeter? I think my best bet is going to be install the CDI and change to a hall-effect type points replacement to give it a signal. Mainly looking at the CDI because from what I've read, they don't have the problem of spark breakdown at higher RPM. The car's a Khana car, so it see's a fair bit of abuse.
  11. Alrighty, I have no idea how to quote shit so you can figure out what applies to who. I am aware all the coils I mentioned are 'different' voltage coils, but wired up correctly, it didn't seem to affect performance at all. (you just ballast the Gt40r/rt which effectively makes them 9v coils whilst running) I have heard that the transistor type coils are not the greatest, (mini guys hate them) but they were cheap (free - i had them in the shed) and they did the job. However, they just don't seem to last and I have it in my head (read/been informed at some point) that its potentially due to the extended dwell times (at idle) causing the coil to overheat. GMJ85, your spruiking the CDI? How much? and why was it removed? But yes, thats pretty much what i was referring too.
  12. G'day all, So The 'Rolla (Ke30) has a habit of blowing coils. Its just gone through it's third, none of them terribly good (bosch gt40r, gt40t, gt40rt) but they we're what I had lying around the house, and they got the job done. I believe it is linked to the "electronic" ignition (optical type points replacement) and the fact it has a larger dwell time then points, causing the coils to heat up and die, but I really don't know, i just replace the things. So my question is this, if I go out and grab an MSD blaster 2 or equivalent, will it handle the extended dwell times better, or am I just going to blow it in 6 months and effectively waste $60. The Ignition unit requires a primary resistance of 3ohms, so any electronic coil will have to be ballasted. Also whilst on the topic, will HEI systems slow down the spark degregation at high RPM, or do they just provide a more powerful spark across the range, but still require an equivalent amount of time to charge? I understand CDI is probably the way to go, but I don't have a spare $500 floating around, and even if I did, I'd probably just spend it on beer and hookers. Cheers, Token
  13. G'day Fellas, My front wheel bearings have very kindly started to informer that their a little tired, and it's probably time to replace them, unfortunantly, I don't have bearing caps anymore, and I can see myself replacing them only to have them chewed out by the vast amounts of sand around here in fairly short order. Does anyone know if I can still buy wheel bearing caps? I understand that you can get universal ones, but I have nothing to compare them with so haven't the faintest as to what I'd be looking for. Any help appreciated, Token
  14. turns out it was the exhaust hitting the tailshaft when the front end dived under brakes. Will attempt the 'slim dusty' fix until my exhaust wrap arrives.
  15. I have the Crows Cam Dual's in my 4k. The Car is my Daily/'Khana bitch and sees 7.5 - 8k 20 runs a day on 'Khana days (at least once a month) (two drivers). I'm not 100% on the Cam specs, we just gave it to an old 'rolla guy in Canberra and said, make it awesome, and then I lost the spec sheet. Lift was around .400, peak power around 6.5 - 7k (but given the gear ratios in the 'rolla alot of the time we just run out in 2nd rather then shift to third) I can't say I've compared them with anything but a stock, and tired, 3k, but I certainly have no reservations about thrashing the old girl. In fact, I can't say I've even thought about valve springs since I build the engine. Token
  16. G'day guys, Just after a few more idea's. Basically, my ke30 Squeals like a pig (if said pig was made of steel and the road was paved with blackboard) under HEAVY braking (read 98% of the way to lockup) and calm down, it was under track conditions. It gets worse as it heats up, but its not brake drums/shoes /pads or rotors. (how do I know this? I replaced everything 2 weeks ago, didn't solve the squeal, but it needed to be done anyway.) I'm currently thinking potentially backing plates, but these are on the front and the noise really does sound like its coming from the back. Anyone got anything that might help me solve this. I have an entire 3 day weekend, and my ears are tired of bleeding. Cheers, Token
  17. i had an n15 pulsar with sr20, got it real cheap and it was a great little car. ac, ps all that gear. went pretty good on dirt too... if thats a consideration? my only problem was when the rear seats folded down there was only a little arch to the boot, so couldnt fit my pushy in it. oh and kangaroos... its ultimate demise
  18. relay was clicking but solenoid wasnt. checked for brushes at work, no one had any... so bought a new starter motor. joys of working in a parts store. got home, bench tested once more for old times sake, would kick every now and then but not all the time like it used to... so brushes theory lined up. put in new starter... voila! just got home from a drive and everything is running just swell. fun times
  19. G'day, Oh great collective knowledge of 'Rolla's. Having issues with my ke30. They started after the last run of a khana a few weeks back, basically, the starter just didn't work. so we roll started the car, got her home and started fault diagnosis. We have a relay for the starter installed, and it checks out fine, starter has 12v, relay triggers when key is turned and the earths are sweet. We then removed the starter, and bench tested it. Starter kicks over. Tested it using the loom on the car, just not in the bellhousing, once again, kicks over, all is sweet. Put it back in car, car starts, sweet. turned it off, turns back on. But, if left for more then about 1/2 hour, it wont start again unless we take the starter off and replace it. This is driving me nuts, Hoping someone might be able to give me a clue as to what I've missed. Cheers Token also, added an earth from the starter to the chassis just to be safe, so that's covered.
  20. Well, really mate, you'd be better off putting the money towards a set of extractors. The webber is a little big, I have one on my 4k, and it's lost alot of response below say 3.5k, but one you get up in the rev range, its sweet. That said, my 4k's got a cam and extractors etc. I get the feeling on a stock 3k you'd be running pig rich, hate it, and swap back to your stock carby pretty quick.
  21. Alrighty, I wish it were purely hypothetical but hey, ponder this for me, Would a webber 32/36 work without the primary idle jet or holder? and if it did work, would it run with symptoms of a major vacuum leak (ie, poor to no idle, but still run if you work the accelerator)? cheers Token
  22. Odd, it could be backwards, on my 32/36 the fuel inlet is too the front of the engine and the throttle mech is on the firewall side. But I'm just comparing. In my experience, Redline nuts suck. They just do. Maybe its just my luck when buying the kits, but now if I'm forced to buy Redline then I always grab a set of nuts (just the champion ones the auto stores down here sell) to replace the ones in the kit. I'v had alot less problems since then.
  23. So really, the dots need to line up, but there pointing away from each other
  24. Yeh, so the pin on the camshaft lines up with the dot on the thrust washer. Now, the camshaft sprocket can only go on one way right, So just put the sprocket on without turning the camshaft. The dot on the Crankshaft sprocket lines up with the dot on the camshaft sprocket, but faces towards the sump. (say at 5 o'clock, facing the front of the engine) Does that make sense?
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