Ella

with all that suspension gear man get yourself some coilover sleeves and weld them on too, very easy job, and the T3 shock spacer kit and some MR2 shocks (I'm running these most happy i am with them!

ok will do, feel free to pm me if needs be!

Oh and mod plate and roadworthy is enough to transfer rego, just asked my missus who works for transport.

honestly man if you get one thats rusty its not so bad, repair it (i have a welder and work for beer/cheap if you want it plated) rust is far easier to do than a engine conversion by far! get one mechanically sound itll be far easier to do rust/panel/paint as a beginner than trying to do a engine swap as a beginner

wow just looked at those tie rod ends (and the steer arms they come attatched to!!!) VERY heavy duty stuff, id be trying them without a lock spacer to be honest. too much lock and youll touch chasis rails :D or rub through a brake line with a tire like my friend did at the drift matsuri today (SR20 ke70 drift car) has so much lock it rubbed them through lol.

lol yeah its hard to get a decent bargain when your buying something as popular a KE70, good luck lads. Jack: why for hatin on the cooner nao? they are only good as cruisers and towcars :P

Even though those are incredily nice parts, they are incredibly illegal, no rose joints allowed on street cars, hope yours is a track car? evan: whats the go with your struts exactly? what do you mean bent???

Johno C do you have idea what the hell your on about?? Toe is measured in Millimetres not in degrees to start with. I am not only a Ex wheel aligner but have spent several hours adjusting cars for all sorts of different types of racing (and drift) so i think i know what I'm on about. Again KE70daves on the money with his advice. and your settings Dr11k should be -2.5 deg camber, 3.5 Degrees caster (about the limit of stock KE70 caster rods) and around 0.5 mm toe out per side or around 1.0mm total toe. This is what i ran in my old KE70 and it worked great, will be running these settings in the red car when done. also the order i put the measurements in is the order you change the settings if your doing it yourself. the car will be rather twitchy at speed but will corner like a champ and youll find the wheel self centres nicely if your sliding and going lock to lock in a hurry. And yes you will have to either cut or flare your guards for these settings.

not unless you changed the entire diff and housing, and did the tailshaft swap, which can get VERY expensive.

Ok i have had no money to do anything recently with this but had had a bit of time. Built my spare struts into coilovers but need to mod the top spring hat slightly to make them work. going to knock that over this afternoon and hopefully have the front end back together this afternoon. have taken some pics but will post the lot once I'm done.

evan your a fag. factory tacho :) which stopped working after i installed the MSD :(

my japanese DX had a U series, what a piece of ass, couldnt be rid of it fast enough.

Alex: what struts are you running? you can't run AE86 Power steer arms with KE70 struts. and DBR11K, phil86 above is right but really what you want is as much caster as you can wind in. the max your stock caster rods will adjust is usually about enough.

OK ive posted about my old KE70'S Engine before but everyone calls BS everytime i do. It was a 4k block, bored 60thou (not sure if id be doing that on something running boost) Fully balanced rotating assembly, HUGE cam and quite a bit of compression, head, inlet, extractors were all ported to flow more and it spun to just over 10,000 RPM and absolutely flew. Made 74rwkw on the dyno but the operator wouldnt turn it past 7000 RPM lol. This was built by a bloke who had 30+ years experiance building speedway motors and this one was originally in his sons KE70 speedway car. Built right they CAN rev hard but like anything once you start pushing the envelope itll shorten the motors life. That motor lasted nearly 4 years and ended up just losing compression and never actuually died ( a mate still has it as far as i know). but i don't think with boost itd be the same story lol.

likely.

so the oil change has shut it up, fark knows what the noise was then lol.

lol someone has me in their sig as quoted saying that evan :D

thats strange irokin, a lot of grip guys seem to remove the rear bar because of a tendacy of them to oversteer. oh well i guess its all in the setup.

no. lol

meh we will see how long it lasts.

jack you should definately put it on your head and wear as a hat.

yes something like that. i have a XR6 head here that came with it so id be just looking to get my mitts on a bottom end and go from there. can likely score a AU motor very cheap through my contacts at work. i think that would be the go.

lol yeah after before and being under it i think my cars gonna need a new motor asap. knocka knock knock :( so i will soon have a new bottom end and a xr6 head haha.

haha thanks teddy. and yeah des, its farkin freezing! Just finished putting the old transcooler that i ripped out the other day because it was unused back in. its now plumbed up to the powersteering system. the old fluid that i changed out of the power steer smelt burnt and old so i think this is a good investement of time, now full of nice new semi synthetic power steer fluid and after a short test drive to the shops and back she feels nicer to steer and after just that short drive the cooler is fairly warm so its definately working. next on the cards is a service as the oil in it is low and as old as the houses.

i love it! another nice RT40 on RC making me miss my old one even more!