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ollienewc

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Everything posted by ollienewc

  1. So ahhh it's been a while.. Haven't forgotten about the old darlin, slowly ticking along after a fair while sitting untouched. Not much to show for three years though.. Welded a plate in to cover up the holes where the rear bumper poked in, as well as filling in a couple of other holes Roughly mounted the new front end up. Going from slannt to flat, I need to do some trimming of the rad panel to get the quadllight buckets to sit back far enough which is a bit shit as it's painted but ahh well. Will get touched up Got around to modifying the linkage for the quads to get rid of the push rod style setup. I bought a joiner/balancer/cable pull from Efi Hardware, but it required a bit of modification to fit. I had to flip and shorten one of the butterfly shafts so that I had the two round ends 1mm apart inbetween the two sets of throttles. Also had to drill and tap a hole into the side of one of the throttles for a modified bolt and spacer/bush to act as the idle stop adjustment and full throttle stop. Bit hard to explain but you might get the idea Old: mods Turns out i don't have a pic of it all together yet but it works a treat. Then had to make a new accelerator cable mount that hangs underneath the manifold. Bit overkill with 5mm steel plate but all I had at the time, shouldn't flex 😂 Bought an Aeroflow catch can/breather that was a bit bigger than I'd hoped, so had to make a bit of a nifty bracket to hang it behind the passenger strut tower. There's a flat spot and two holes on the rear of the tower so I just used those. Welded some studs on to make it a bit easier to install. Starting to think I wouldn't mind an ac/dc tig to make things a bit nicer but we'll see how we go with that one Waiting on a few things to tidy up the fuel system, running new 5/16" hardline with proper fittings either end to go to rubber hose. Almost went down the braided line and AN fittings road but it was just going to look bulky and cost a heap. So just getting a pair of proper hose barbs welded onto the rail to keep it nice and simple. Doesn't look like three years work but ya win some ya lose some I guess haha. Just stoked that I haven't caved and gotten rid of it tbh 🤘 Cheers, Ollie.
  2. ... I've still got a fair amount of body work to do, but it's nice to have this part of it done at least. Cheers, Ollie.
  3. Hey cheers Oli! Wish i could find some inspiration myself! Really struggling for motivation in these colder months. I have been chipping away ever so slowly though. Here are the hinges with the new bushes pressed in and assembled. They came up alright but some are quite stiff as they got a bit bent out of shape pulling them apart. They should loosen up a bit after they're all bolted on. I've been working on patching the rust in the rear arches, I put it off for ages but didn't end up being too hard once I got stuck into it. I ended up cutting up a spare set of front guards I had, just using small sections of the arches to try match the basic shapes instead of starting from scratch. Basically just cut out the cancer, roughly cut out a replacement piece from the spare guard, placed it behind the hole and used black spray paint to trace the required outline. Photos are easier than words.. It's my first time doing any of this so it was never going to be too pretty haha. ...
  4. Haha they look mad ugly! Definitely need more practice, but all good fun. Repairing the rusted out rear quarters will be interesting.. Oooooh I like the sound of that, I'll see what I can find. The youtube link doesn't work (takes me to my vids), but I found your thread and assume it's what's on there. Looks very neat indeed, nice work man. And thanks heaps for the info, nice to have something a bit different
  5. Got the hinges primered and painted over the last few days, just going to wait for the paint to cure for a week or so then go about pressing in the new bushings and pins. While I was painting the hinges I thought I'd test out painting some instrument cluster trim the same colour as the car, turns out to be real similar to the plastic in the dash pad. Have to see how it all looks once the rest of the dash is in, but I reckon I'll run with it. So I bought a tacho dash a while ago that had the needles and the redline on the tach coloured in with texta, looked real average. Managed to take it off with thinners, but it also ate into the white markings below. Not too bad but I can see that it's now a bit fudged. Repainted the needles red, but I still need to repaint the centre circle matte black to match the rest. Anyone know of anywhere to get the backing made up? quite like the red, would be nice to replace the orange and the white 'redline'. Any input much appreciated. Although the clear plastic front also has a small crack.. so if anyone has a complete tacho dash they'd like to part with that'd be great too.
  6. Hell yeah dude, nice one. Love the socket idea, was just thinking yesterday I've never touched the imperial ones either haha
  7. Far out Mike, that's sweet. Keen to see more photos of the build
  8. Ahhh yeah so been real slack with this, and the car too really.. Nice to hear people are still interested though haha Slowly chipping away at things here and there though, but trying to smash some out while I've got time off over Easter. Doors were coated in epoxy (above post), roughly blocked to find the highs and lows (turned out they were pretty average), then bogged, another coat of epoxy, primer filler, blocked again working through the grits, then another coat of primer to cover where I rubbed through. That was rubbed back lightly with scotchbrite, blown down and cleaned ready for colour. So first time round shooting the colour on the doors I ran out of thinners so couldn't lay the clear on, so after a few weeks I lightly rubbed it all back, sprayed another couple of coats of colour, then could put on a few coats of clear straight on top. Pretty happy with how they came out, and should finish up nicely with a cut and buff. Also refurbishing the worn out door hinges with new pins and bushes to stop the sag. I found cutting the pin in half and using a cold chisel to wedge one side out, followed by a punch back down the hole to push the other side out worked a treat. Then used a step drill to remove the old brass?/copper? bushes, and put a slight chamfer to hopefully help the new ones go in. Decided to weld up a few seams in the rear where I'd already tried to bog, but was worried it wouldn't take long to crack and ruin the paint. Not the prettiest by any means, but hopefully will do the job. Just coated them with etch primer for now, I'll be putting a skim of bog over them once I do the rest of the bodywork and have epoxy down first. Also just realised that I moved it under it's own power for the first time on christmas day, as a little present to myself haha. Realised all I needed to do was install the handbrake cables, so that was nice and easy. I also finally got around to modifying the rear of the exhaust to fit into my wagon, luckily I was just able to chop it up and use what I had to make it work. Fabricated up one hanger, and bought one off the shelf that I modified. Pretty stoked with how it sits, nice and solid with hardly any movement, but still using rubber mounts. Didn't get any photos making it, but I'll try grab some of it installed Few other things like installing the dash frame, deciding to go flat front/quads, treating rust in new guards and welding up the holes from where fender mirrors were installed. Need to get off my arse and buy the rest of the front end, but that ain't going to be cheap, as usual :( Probably take me another few months to do another update, but I'll try do smaller more regular ones or something. Well done if you've made it this far, Ollie.
  9. Hey cheers Kurt! Legend, nice to hear others actually get something out of this haha. Been pretty slack as usual, but I've finally blasted the doors and have a coat of primer on them. I set up a blasting and spray booth in the corner of the carport that seems to work pretty well. Knocked up a frame and grabbed some curtain rail from the tip shop, and made some curtains out of clear builders plastic. I used washers every 200mm along the top and ran a strip of gaffer tape over that to reinforce, poked a cable tie through the tape and washer and looped it through the curtain rail sliders. Also made a floor with sides that come up about 700mm out of thicker black plastic, with ropes and velcro to suspend it all. The curtains hang inside this to catch all the blasting grit. I've got a supercheap extraction fan set up and a fluorescent light in there too. Stripped down all the doors, and that was not too fun at all, but got there in the end. I sanded the faces of the doors back with the orbital and 40grit, then moved them into the booth and blasted all door frames and edges making sure to get all the rust. Vacuumed and blew them out then wiped them all down. I then used rust converter, followed by a damp rag then metho to finish off. Also the door jambs in colour
  10. Cheers mate! It's not there yet, but if you just stick at it you can surprise yourself. I got the brake lines and accelerator cable made up, lines are still on the bench but the cable is all hooked up and fits nicely. Also rang a car audio place and they said extra foam on the firewall won't really do anything so that's good enough for me not to worry about it. Finally got around to swapping over that dizzy/cam angle plug, but I'm worried I might have introduced some interference, I could be way off the mark, but it hesitates and stutters pretty bad now. Hoping it's something else. Apart from that it went well and tucks away nicely under the coilpack plate, probably not the best place for the plug but hope it'll be all sweet. Pulled off the doors to get at the rust and paint the jambs, but I sorta wish I did this later once the rest of the bodywork was done. It makes sense to strip and paint them now while they're off, but they'll no doubt get scratched and chipped once they go back on to seal the car back up.. Ahh well. Used a combo of sandpaper, wire wheels and strip discs to remove the rust I could get to, then treated everything with rust converter. Cleaned with wax and grease remover, wiped over with a tack rag and used etch primer in a can on the bare metal followed by a few coats of primer using the gun. Don't have photos yet but shot the colour on the next day. There's a few bad sanding marks that have come through but they're door jambs so I'll live with it. I'll try get photos of the colour soon. Ollie.
  11. Been a while between updates but I've been getting a few things done. Finally painted my accelerator pulley and got that installed so I can measure the cable length and get that made this week. I also made up a little bracket for the cable that bolts to the engine mount too. Painted the sway bar in dupli-colour metalcast red (groundcoat then red), wasn't sure how it was going to turn out, but was stoked with the end result. I chipped the shit out of it when installing it which sucks, so I might get it powder coated down the track, but it's staying for now. After getting screwed around on ebay, I finally got my radiator overflow tank and installed that right next to the rad. A bracket is riveted to the body, and the tank bolts to that. Last weekend I ripped the dash to pieces so I could spray it satin black. I've been debating on colour for too long so just went with the safe option. I removed the blower controls, vents and all the little clips, then sprayed it down it with degreaser, hit it with the karcher, rubbed it with scotchbrite, blew it down with air then wiped down with wax and grease remever. I used septone plastic primer then acrylic black and it seemed to come up alright. Time will tell though. Same goes for the gearbox cover too. There's a whole heap of interior pieces left to paint though :( I've got my braided brake lines getting made up locally, costing around $240 for the two one-piece fronts and the one from the diff to the body. I'll get the accelerator cable made at the same place too. Tailshaft has finally gone in, as has the blower system, but I'm thinking of pulling it out to get some further sound deadening foam on the firewall, but not too sure about that just yet. Anyone had any experience with foam on top of dynamat and if its even worth it? Ollie.
  12. If you think you'll be messing around with cars for a while, it might be worth looking into getting yourself a compressor and gun. I still paint most parts with rattle cans, but nothing beats the nice wide fan you get with a proper gun when doing panels etc. Even just having the blower attachment for general cleaning and dusting is reason enough to have one for me. Then you've got sandblasting cabinets too..
  13. Cheers Gage :y: I'm not sure if if it's all technically correct, and I'm sure there are probably things that are a bit dodgy that I'm not even aware of, but it starts and runs so there's that at least. And man all you've gotta do is start! I had no clue about wiring before I started this, I didn't know what a relay was or how it worked for example. Just have a google, read up and jump on youtube and you'd be well on your way.
  14. As I said I haven't been taking many shots as I've been doing things, but here's a few photos of the wiring as it stands. Main relay and fuse panel is in the passenger foot well behind the blower system, and other one is in the rear in the tool compartment. I'll have to make sure the rear window is well sealed, but it should be fine. The stock relay and fuse box that sits in the engine bay has been moved into the front left wheel well. I'm planning to make some form of shield to protect it from stones and excessive water too. I also notched out the coil pack plate for the wires too. Moving things about was a bit of a headache, especially tracing all the necessary wires from the key barrel to the various locations, but it was good fun learning how it all works and making all my own cables. I made a few mistakes and had to redo some wires/connections, but pretty stoked that it started up first pop without any electrical issues after doing this myself and learning from scratch. Big thanks to a good mate Tom who pointed me in the right direction :y: Tried to make it as neat as possible in the engine bay with new wiring for the alt and starter, with a circuit breaker in between, as well as new trigger and signal wires covered in sheathing. Also received the fuel reg, I modified the bracket and bolted it onto the brake line splitter thing. I took apart the blower system, cleaned it all out and replaced all the foam I could access, including that around the heater core. Probably a bit of overkill, but I'm trying to get as much of the musty old car smell outta there, and maybe even make it blow a bit harder :thumbsup:
  15. So after spending basically all of today chasing down a grounding issue with it ending up being a faulty relay, it now finally turns over and starts. Only let it go for a few seconds, but shit I am so stoked. It's been four bloody years since I first got the car. I've been pretty slack with taking photos lately, but the wiring is basically done and just in need of tidying, fuel reg went in on the drivers strut tower as usual. I'll try get a video and some pictures of it tomorrow, need to get some radiator hoses before running it for too long, and a windows laptop so see how everything is going. Hopefully I can be a bit more on the ball with pictures and updates too
  16. Not really sure what you're after there Altezza.. A pat on the back? Someone else to stroke your ego? No wonder this forum is turning to shit. Think I'll just stick to photos from now on, if that.
  17. Got around to cleaning, painting and installing the steering column and surround, finally have control of the front wheels and get an idea what the ratio is like. Getting 3 turns lock to lock on the outermost hole in the T3 steering arms. Tried installing the surround on the firewall first, who knows why, but I made an absolute mess of the new paint so I might try go back and touch it up later. Haven't had the best run with the surge tank lately.. in trying to squeeze the new filter right after the pump, I had to bend the bottom outlet upwards slightly, which of course ended in a crack which turned into a clean snap. I used cold weld to fix it up, fair bit of wishful thinking was involved here, and of course it let go as I was installing the tank after rethinking filter location :notimp: I was keen to get this in the car once and for all so I grabbed a fitting off the old surge tank, drilled out the mess that remained on the new one and self tapped it in. Backed it out, applied sealant and snugged it all up. Hopefully she'll hold.. I decided I'd put the filter in the rear drivers quarter, there was way more room making it heaps easier to get in there and change. In doing this I had to swap what was the feed to the return and vice versa. I'll be using the stock lines for now, I've heard they're fine so it'll do, eventually want something much nicer though. I quickly knocked up a filter mount out of some alu strap and piece of rubber and bolted it up. The tank is installed and plumbed up, I ended up using all the stock vent lines as I wanted to make sure there was going to be no fuel coming out anywhere. So I'm just waiting on a reg and I can finally tick the fuel system off the never ending list. Ollie.
  18. So I've been playing with the fuel system for longer than I should have, didn't end up going down the above route, but I'm happy with how it's turned out. All well and good except that I forgot about the need for fuel filters :bash: I'll need to squeeze one in somewhere, not in the bay though. What are peoples thoughts on pre filters,, worth it or not? I actually made two lift pump setups as I wasn't happy with the way the first was going to work. Basically, I blocked off the return and only kept the one outlet coming from the lift pump, planning to use one of the other three inlet/outlets at the rear of the tank for the return. But I realised that the returning fuel would be squirting out and into the tank, aerating it and possibly creating a dripping noise. Not sure if this would have in fact been an issue, but I wasn't happy with it. Using the assembly from the 4age sedan tank, I cut and drilled out the tube with the crack in it, and was able to bend up the remaining tube and used cold weld to epoxy it back in place. Would have preferred to braze it, but I don't have the equipment. Painted it, reinstalled the pump and even extended the wires before deciding to redo the lot. This was the first one completed.. So I got my stock wagon assembly and drilled the vent tube out, went and grabbed some more fuel line, bent it to shape and epoxied it in. Drilled a hole for the wires, passed them through and extended them to make wiring easier later on. The stock fuel pick up/feed is now used as the return from the surge tank, returning the fuel to the bottom of the main tank. Also hoping it might 'blow' and debris away from the lift pump. The final setup I realised I can squeeze the lines down the side of the tank, basically along the chassis rail without the need for spacing down it down at all. The rounded corner of the tank creates a gap that allows the fuel lines to poke through too, perfect :rock: I've also cut and bent the lines in the engine bay to fit, but I'm going to need to flare the hard lines as the rubber fuel hose will just want to slide off. After that's all sorted including the filter/s, it's onto wiring, and hopefully making some noises after that.
  19. Finally got around to getting the fuel lines in, decided I'll use the vent line (1) for fuel going up to the motor, and the stock fuel line (3) for my return as these are the two with the biggest diameter, and they also work reasonably well with where the fuel pump is mounted. The lines will get bent so sit behind/underneath the manifold, this allows me to hide basically everything out of sight. I dropped the tank out to sort out the lines between that and the surge tank. I found a small hole in the lift pump assembly, so I'm thinking I'll modify my stock one in the same way, but extend the hard lines to run over the top of the tank to the rear of the car, where fuel hose will then connect to the surge tank. Either that, or make some spacers to drop the whole main tank down 15mm, allowing normal fuel hose to squeeze through. I'd prefer the hard lines, but we'll see.
  20. Cheers mate! I appreciate the kind words :y:
  21. haha yeah I cheated a little bit, but I was certainly not keen to try and put it all back together, they all move about enough as it is with the clips still on!
  22. Not much of an update, but I cleaned up and painted the fuel lines. They were fairly rusty after I scrubbed them back and left them on top of the shed months ago, so out came the wire wheel on the grinder, sand paper and scotch brite to get most of the rust off. I used a paint brush and coated it all with rust converter, then sprayed it all with aluminium engine paint
  23. I did actually think of that, but I realised that although there's not that many plugs, there is still a fair few wires going through the firewall, and pinning them all into a connector would be a real pain, as well as the fact i reckon it'd be hard to find one that would actually fit through the hole. Haven't completely dismissed the idea yet, as I've also wanted to do it, but thinking it might be more trouble than it's worth. I'll run the wiring for the starter through this same hole, with the headlight and thermofan wiring tucked up under the guard and up under the top radiator panel to keep it all out of sight. Not too sure where all the relays are going to go, probably inside the quarter panel, but I might end up doing a separate relay and fuse panel and have that in the cabin somewhere so its completely out of the way, keeping the external wiring as neat as possible.
  24. Installed the dynamat onto the firewall, turns out it wasn't as bad as I thought. It's by no means pretty, but it should do the job. I cut a hole in the firewall to run the loom so that it's all tucked away and hidden behind the motor, almost looks like a factory hole, and with a grommet it should be all sweet. Pretty happy with how well the loom can be hidden, a few wires will need to be extended so that plugs can be hidden or the loom tucked away, but it can stay mostly as is. Some will also get re-sheathed. I just need to buy some new connectors, clean up and run the fuel lines, hook up a battery, hook up the rad and it should be getting close to starting.
  25. hmm that's what I thought I did, do I need to use the link button at all? And I take it it's not the actual embed link then? Cheers mate! That's what I was going for, red tubes, gears and camber tops. Loving the attention to detail on your 30, the engine bay looks so neat and tidy, bloody nice job all over. Been keeping an eye out for inspiration
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