meadan

The time has come, once again, to organise the annual Bathurst cruise. Date: Sunday, July 13th 2008 Meet Time: 8.30am for 9:30am depart. Meeting Point: McDonalds Windsor Corner of Windsor Rd and Groves Av. (refer map) Destination: Mt Panorama, Bathurst. Bring: Yourself, Travelling companion/s, Driving Tunes, Jackets/Jumpers/Warm Clothes, Full tank of fuel (There are servos nearby the meet point), CB radios, anything else you think you'll need. DISCLAIMER: On behalf of twincam.org and other forums this is advertised on I would like to say that the forum promotes and supports SAFE AND LAWFUL DRIVING. Like it or not YOU ARE REPRESENTING clubs/forums who are attending the day. This is a CRUISE NOT A RACE. Driving in a dangerous and illegal way will be doing so at your own risk, and will not be welcome. Anybody who breaches these rules will be asked to leave the group. If hooning around is your agenda DO NOT ATTEND! Last thing we need is more bad publicity as car enthusiats. MEET POINT: http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/8121/picture1ir9.png Let's see if we can get a turnout as good as, if not better than, what we got last year Please post if you're coming, and how many passengers

i run 185/60 on most 14 inch rims i have. Theres plenty of different brands and theyre all pretty cheap

Name: Adan Car: ke70 Motor & Driveline: 4age smallport, turbo, 4agze electrics, locked t-series diff, 2.5" exhaust straight through with cat and 1 resonator Suspension & Brakes: coilovers on carina front struts, ma61 discs and calipers, whiteline swaybars and strut bar, chopped falcon springs and kyb shocks at rear Wheels & Tyres: 14x7.5 ssr longchamp and 14x6.5 ssr mk1 Interior: bride drivers seat, recaro passenger, momo deep dish wheel, greddy boost guage, sony cd player, rear half cage Body: flared guards (front in primer), respray in mercedes golden yellow

mine was the coil i think, and i didnt have a choke on my carbie. but when the original auto choke broke it was doing that all the time, it wouldnt hold idle at all.

i have seats from a csx ae82 seca in my ae71 wagon. I just had to swap the outside rails to make them fit, and then bend down where it bolts at the front, it was quite simple. These seats are quite comfy, not really sports seats, but feel luxurious compared to the stock ones. Theres even adjustable lumbar support, and you can adjust the seat base angle if you modify the rails properly.

yeah a guy at work suggested the ballast resistor, but it wasnt that. i replaced the coil, dizzy rotor, contact set and condenser. Among those 3, one of them fixed the problem, so its all good now.

ok after spending way too much time mucking around with it on the weekend i have figured out that... it only works when its cold, and dies as soon as it gets kind of warm. everything i said id check seems good. Which makes no sense at all. I'm thinking that the coil is heating up and then deciding not to work, does this sound reasonable?

The old stock carb wouldnt idle either. The choke wasnt working properly, because it would idle as soon as i pressed the choke manually, so there was something wrong with the electronic control. The carb may be jetted wrongly, though i bought it off a guy who got it tuned for his 4ac apparently. Plus it has been running exceptionally well for the past few months since i put it on. I'm not sure how to adjust the idle speed on the weber, but it would idle ok. A little bit high because of the lack of chokes (somewhere around 1200 rpm), but it would idle steady and hold the same revs. When i try to start it and rev it, it kind of sounds like its choking, or sucking in too much air or something. Ill check to see if everything is blocked off corrctly which is meant to be blocked off on sunday...

I'm going to put in a new fuel filter on sunday. I havent checked the fuel pump, it seems weird because it does run normal for a few mintues until it dies again. On sunday I'm going to replace the dizzy cap and rotor, replace fuel filter, check the timing, check the compression and then see what its doing. I'm not sure what else to check for.

I was wondering if anyone here can help me with a few trouibles I'm having with my 4ac powered wagon. I have pretty much a stock 4ac, except for the weber carb and removed emissions crap. It has been running well for a few months, since i replaced the stock carb. Now today i was letting it idle and then it just died. It is hard to start, like it will crank for ages and then struggle to actually start. It will only start when i give it heaps of throttle, and then it will die because it sounds like its choking or something. Every few times it will start and then the revs will build up until it idles normally, then i can rev it like normal. Ill let it sit for a few minutes and then it will die again. I have the feeling its something to do with fuel, but I'm really not sure. Ive checked the leads and spark plugs. Ive sprayed carbie cleaner into the carb, and i made adjusted to fuel screw to make sure it wasnt flooding and that it was actually getting fuel. any suggestions?

thanks for the help people. i got it out quite easily once i put it in a vice and used the strut like a slide hammer :) once i got the first one the next one was easy. Lets hope i don't have to deal with oiled struts again though

hi everyone, I just bought some new front shocks for my ae71 wagon. Now it seemed like a pretty straightforward task to change them. Ihave managed to get the entire strut out of the car, so the spring is out and brake lines disconnected and such. I can't seem to get the old insert out of the strut. Does anyone have any tips or advice to get the old one out? I have unscrewed the top thing which holds it in by the way, so i think ithe shock is jammed in there. I'm thinking of a hammer and putting it in the vice once all the oil is drained out, there must be an easier way. thanks adan

we use argoshield at work too for amost all our mig welding. As above, BOC gases can tell you almsot verything you need to know about it, you jsut have to ask them. Also for the thinner sheet metal on doors and stuff that we use, weve started using 0.6 wire. 0.8 worked fine too, if you know how to set the welder up properly both should work pretty well seeing its not too hard to get penetration through the panels. To minimise distortion i think youll find lots of smaller but pretty hot welds spread out will work better than long ones. It will look worse before grinding, but will spread out the heat during welding and should still achieve full penetration. As said above, penetration is the key, you don't want to grind away the whole weld and have the parent metal not joined. My tafe teacher said that if you how to set the welder not much can go wrong. So my advice is to just practice and figure out your technique, and make sure the welder is set correctly. Once you get a feel for it all its not too difficult at all, plus a you can always just get the grinder out and start again..

i did this today. i just left the nut on a little bit and wriggled the wheel from side to side while pulling it out. it came off in about 30 seconds so i guess I'm lucky.

looks like the japish ones to me. i think theyre the ones they mostly have over in NZ, so id assume jap import. well besides that, did you take the bumpers or what?? id so want that exact set for my car:P nice find though, I'm sure most XE7X drivers would be interested in the majority of that car.