Box Boy South Africa

the arm coming out of the gear box is move able without any tension on to pull the cable back so basiclly the arm has to pull the cable back when you release the clutch but it doesn't bought a new clutch will fit it and see what goes any tips and tricks on how to fit a clutch never done it before so newby to this part of my car. and where do i put the transmission oil in the gearbox and diff oil? while I'm down there would like to do that as-well

yes i took it off and hooked the cable over the lever again and replaced everything but there is no tension on the levercoming out from the gear box.

Hi Guys I just drove to work and 3 1/4 there I stepped on the clutch peddle as normal to change gear and snap the peddle stayed down drove to work in 3rd gear got to work and now opened up the bonnet to see that the cable came off the hook coming out of the gear box tried putting it back on but there is no tension on the lever sticking out for the cable to go over does this mean the clutch just died on me?

so then why would i need to block it off when setting the timing on idle speed?

dude you need to block off the advance when setting the timing Disconnect the hose and block it off the car should Idle as the vacuum advance only kicks in when you rev it. higher. thus I think your timing is out or your idle mixture is not right. Back to my prob i set timing gapped the points and all ok now.thx guys

Ok just checked the timing with the timing light on idle when I drove it from work to home about +/- 15km drive opened up the bonnet and she was running hot checked heat gauge was sitting in the middle normaly it would be just below 1/4 so she was hot timing was at juin between the zero and firts line before rhe dot for the 8 mark so I would say about 2 or 3tried setting it with dizzy but it was already on its max if I turned it away foem the engine timing would go below 0 and make it die so I think when they install it the did it wrong the guy who helped me had one when he was way young that's why he still have all these tools as per him is should just move the dizzy a tooth or two so it can have more movement on that bracket which the bolt ties it down. Any steps for me to follow?

will try this tonight when I get home please send me the points gap as i am going to buy me a feeler gauge and new points and condensor, for the ballast resistor that thing is wired up with a whole lot of wires running from it there;s even one wire from it to the black mechinisim on the carbby?

Hi Guys so last month I had a recon starter; dizzy and carbby fitted to my 4k rolla. all good when i received it it started right up and drove like a fuel injected rolla :rocknroll: . i had a timing light of a friend and it was set to just under 20 ? so i did not pay any attention to it as the car was running fine and started with a touch of the key. now a month later that feeling of fuel injection is gone and its back to its old ways again. need a kick start in the morning and only turns over when the motor is fairly hot. On saturday past i added some valve ease to a half a tank of fuel so half a bottle af valve ease then this morning I kick started as normal when I noticed a miss on the engine when i rev it, on idle it all good but as soon as i pull away it shudders and gives of a miss and backfires though the exhaust then when the revs get a bit higher its ok again until i change gear the the same shudder and revs go higher ok again. :down: is this the timing, vacume advance, carbby or how do I go about fixing this as I just spent alot on these recon parts. I checked the plugs on idle for a bad one by pulling them one by one and each one I pull it idle's rough put back normal like it should be. point and condensor I am not keen on as I don't know much always let someone do it for me. :hammer: :bash: this car is starting to cost me more than what it is worth.

brakes is fine now but still need to fix the front suspention it is giving me a ride like the car was dropped I know my shocks is done for and i am basiclly riding on the springs this i wanna fix the whole thing but getting the parts for these old rolla's this side is like looking for chicken teeth and when you find them the person who has them want to charge you a fram's price for it.

this is the bubble corolla brake lines and all is fine the locking stopped after a few days best guess it needed some a skim on the brake rotor as it had a ridge of rust on it but now it is all straight.

Hey guys My left front wheel has recently been just locking up for no reason so I asked around and two thing Stood out which was wheel bearings and brakes so the past weekend i basicly did both wheel bearings and brakes on both front wheel this morning the left wheel locked up again. now i was thinking replacing the front suspension a whole complete renew of it what i want to do is rip out the whole suspension in there now an put everything new in it. but just one problem I don't know what to buy does the bubble corolla's front suspension work on these KE70's as for me taking it apart and hunting for each part will be a headache on this side of the world. any help or diagram with names of the parts for the front suspension of a ke70 4k?

thanks guys car has bee fully serviced in March but I will have to check out that advance bob weight pivots & springs i don't think I did that since I had the car. will run this tank empty and fill up on unleaded the end of the month and let you know what adjustments I will make to make her run smoothly. :rocknroll:

Hey guys sitting with a problem my side of the world. currently My rolla 1300 4k with normal 2 barrel carby, is running on what we call 95 LRP (lead replacement petrol)(red in color), now they are slowly getting rid of this LRP fuel as the demand is not that big anymore. What do I need to do to change to the fuel that is now everywhere 97 unleaded(green in color). set the timing, change the valve seats...and the list goes on and on as I asked around and the were some of the responses I got. please help guys.

Hi Banjo thanks for this bro will take the whole dash apart this weekend and start rewiring the the faulty wires hope I can do it over the weekend.

Guys can anyone help me with the wiring under my steering i need a basic diagram for the wire color and what it is for please lights and indicators and instruments acting up. I want to rewire them before i go the way of putting relays on the lights.

HI Guys can anyone send me the diagram for the wire connector below the steering which color wire is for what and its purpose please indicators and light acting up again want to see if it is the wiring before i go the way of wiring in the relays on the lights. could just be a bad earth or loose connections again like last time but i want to rewire the whole thing and know which wire is for what.

Hey guys My rolla has been running almost a month now, now I need your help, about three days after I got it running on the road it stalled on me, got a friend to tow me home, got home gave it a little push start and everything was fine. two weeks it did the same wouldn't turn over after over fuelling but this time I did not even drive far from home not even 5km opened the bonnet pulled the plugs and they were all soaked with fuel. spoke a "yard mechanic " he told me the carb needs to be set, timing and points and condensor has to be redone. well this cost me about my left nut as he was not as cheap as i thought, last week it did the same to me again dead plugs, and now i even see that my oil is thin and smells like fuel as-well. this happend all just after i got it running and the next day i had a full major service done on it filters, oil new plugs new brake, brake fluid the works. I poked around anywhere i saw they were busy working on cars and asked them or the guy (so called mechanic) and two things was always the answer. one was that the carb is done for or just needs to be set properly, with timing ect and the second was that their is a valve/s that is not working properly or is bent ect. Now i have tuned to you guys looking to hear what is your take on this as I don't want to spend 1000's on doing the head or the carb and the problem is not even their to begin with.

hahaha Goffels in deed. :rant: when i fitted my master cylinder the was no piston sticking out of the booster as in your pic :bash: it was only the two bolts and the piston was in deeper??

WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY FULL TRAVEL. well the pedal is just hanging there with no pressure to it almost to the floor you need to use your foot or hand to bring it back up to hit the brake switch. pumping it a few time makes it come up half of the way, and then you can feel that theres brake when you start the car the pedal just drops down to the floor again. and the master cylinder is a new one i bought.

anybody know a good mechanic this side of the world that will not charge me a arm and a leg to help me or try and swop out my original parts for knock offs as the last one i had wanted to do.

thanks dude but the pedal does get sucked anyway to the floor from my foot after i pump it hard and keep it pressed down with build up from the pumping when i start it. and then stays there then i need to pump it to get it up again and when i do this at ideal the car dies. what i did was I replaced both rear wheel brake cylinders, brake shoes at the back even adjust the rear shoes up until they just drag on the drums so they just slightly touch the drums when i put it back on and pulled the handbrake and pumped the brakes to center them, replaced the front brake shoes and the master cylinder as-well. only things i did not replace was the brake booster and the brake lines where the brake fluid runs in, now i don't see any leaks but brake still not in working order recon i just need to get a new booster but that's a bit to far fetched for me to do myself as i was told that you have to remove the pedal box and hell knows what else.

Hi Guys me again Got my ke70 riding perfect, now it can't stop :oops: (little to well if you ask me). So i figured i should check and replace my brakes. ;) now after replacing all round brake shoes and linings, Master Cylinder(as it was leaking by the connection to the booster), and new brake fluid, bleeding the brakes ect. I found that my handbrake works 100% :thumbsup: but my brake pedal is not? :down: now after bleeding about 1 liter of brake fluid through the system until the fluid that comes out of the system is as clean as it when in at all four bleeder screws, the brake pedal is halfway up and does not hit the brake switch not a problem but there is no brakes on the car when i drive i have to pump the pedal and use the e-brake to get the car to stop. if it stands an ideals and i pump the brakes it dies. :bash: could this mean i have to replace my brake booster :rant: , or do i need to bleed the brakes while the car is running. :hmm: please help with this.

Hey i will have a look at the brake light but i'm pretty sure as i made sure not to put them in the wrong way could be a back earth as you said as i saw the previous owner made some new earth connections to the light could be one of those that is in the wrong place, as for the indicators as picked up when i fixed it that all of them are flashing but my left front bumper indicator was connected to the indicator on the left fender could this be the reason for the fast flashing if so i need to find out which plug should feed the bumper indicator. dude thanks for all your help really Appreciate it :thumbsup: :hail: , as to if i was to get someone to fix it, it would be an endless job as they would find something else wrong and would end up spending more on fixing the lights than what i did now. do you know anything about how the wipes work as i see it is also not working as in dead don't even know where to begin with this buying a new wiper motor would be useless as i don't know where it is or what it looks like could also just be another bad contact.

Hi altezaclub as you said. "Sounds like a bad contact somewhere:" and it was not just one but the whole plug under the steering which all the wires was cut and soldered back together but the one who did it made a even bigger mess of what it was lol :down: so i had the take the whole wiring apart and start from scratch. now i got all my lights working :rocknroll: but my turn signals is blinking fast :wtf:replaced all the bulbs even tried an new flasher unit no luck. :bash:Brake lights work fine until night time when i need to switch on my lights, with the lights now switched on when i apply the brakes my right hand side dies instead of going brighter the left hand side works perfectly. what could this problem be.

Thanks Guys I will be buying a multimeter today and check all the wiring, circuits and the fusible links. will keep you pasted to the progress.