bLinded_

Manifolds successfully mounted! Would have had the carbs on aswell, but realised I don't have any studs to fix them to the manifold with. Note: Carbs are only test fitted there. Not actually bolted down porperly.

5 would be a good number. I say get the 70 and save it for a rainy day. :y: Engine should hopefully be in this weekend. long weekend + RDO on Tuesday = 4 day weekend! Plan is to get the manifolds all worked out now while it is on the engine stand, and when the time comes to put it in the car, just use the intake setup off my 4K so I can drive it, and run the engine in. Already has a Weber jetted for a 1.6 on it, so it should work pretty well on the 5K. After a few hundred K's I'll throw the twins on, and take it to get tuned :hmm:

Cheers bro, good to hear someone is following the build :cool: Any progress is few and far between, so if nothing pops up in here for extended periods of time, pretty much means nothing is going on :y: But, its actually moving along pretty well now. Motor is built, all torqued down, and am just fitting the manifolds now which is a slow process. The intake needed a bit of grinding/filing to fit with the exhaust flange, and now I need to just grind down the intake flange where the studs come through so that it is the same(or close to) thickness as the exhaust one. Nothing is easy these days :n: Tomorrow should hopefully have the manifolds fitted and also if time permits, have the carbs kitted and bolted on too. Getting pretty excited about it all now. Nearly coming to the end of it all :hmm: Oh yeah, definitely get a KE70, will go good with your collection of rolla's :y: Up to like 5 now?

Well, this is one hell of a grave dig, but, finally there is some more progress. :y: After a lengthy 6 weeks, I got the head back from the engine builder today with the new valve springs fitted and a general tidy up carried out. Wasn't particularly happy with how long it took, but atleast the long wait gave me time to regain some more money to finish it all off now. I spent this afternoon/evening putting the engine back together and tomorrow I'll work out how much lifter preload I have with the new cam grind. Hopefully it is all sweet, but I'll soon find out. If all is well, then the only real remaining things left are to put the kits through the carbs and set the linkages up, and also just work out how to mount the manifold and extractors as the flanges foul on each other at the head. Should be an easy fix though, just gotta introduce them to Mr. Grinder. After that, it is out with the old and in with the new. :cool: Have now got an aim to get the engine in and running by next month as apparently Oran Park is closing at the end of the year, so I want to get out there before I miss out for good. Should be a do-able goal, but time will tell :y: Other news: - I bought a pair of rims for the rear, but they are still in post. Clicky Still will be looking for fronts at a later date. - Still no KE20 daily. Saw a pretty clean one around town a few times, but have never had the cash to make an offer on it. :n: - Need to remake my front coilovers, but sectioned this time. Since the car has been getting lower and lower, there is sfa shock travel left at the front so big bumps (ie. 90% of Wagga's roads) are causing it to hit bumpstops, I think. Not 100% sure, but turning + big bump = not fun. Well, yeah that's pretty much it at the moment. Hopefully I'll have some new pictures of the engine with carbs and extractors, etc. fitted and ready to be put in the car. -Alex :hmm:

Afaik, the 7K uses the standard crossmember, but has different mounts, and also the sump will need modding so it doesn't hit the crossmember or something. I am not 100% sure on this, but there are a few guys on here who have/had 7K's in their cars, and can probably provide the info required to fit it. I don't think that you'd have to upgrade brakes on a KE70, but it'd be something I'd look into doing. I like to follow the line "more go, more slow". KE70s have easy options for better brakes, if you have a search/use the faq, you can find out all the info you need.

Wow, very nice mate. Looks like a completely different car with the SSRs compared to the hotwires. Hopefully regency won't have a problem with it at that height, but once it clears (or what ever they do there :yes:) returning it to a lower height will look tops :yes: Also, nice find on the wheel nuts. $40 seems like a good price for the 16. Turns out those SCA ones required a little stuffing around with to fit properly, so yeah, good thing you found some that suit elsewhere :hmm:

SCA= Super Cheap Auto :yes: I'll see if I can find that thread I was talking about and double check if they have some that fit.

Hey man, Love your build up so far, one of my favourite KE builds to date. :hmm: (long time reader, decided to finally post) I am almost certain that you can get some tapered wheel nuts to suit SSR rims from SCA, iirc. I'm not 100% sure, but I am fairly sure that I have read that in a thread somewhere on AE86DC. Might be worth looking into, as I'd imagine that they would be a a fair bit cheaper than genuine wheel nuts. :yes: Also, do you have any ppictures of the new wheels on the car? Good luck with the build man, and sorry to hear about he whitetail bite.

Woooooooooooow! ^^ dayuuuuumm, that is bloody awesome. My first tought was "shopped as", but hell, if they are real, they would be fun as. pretty much just, GTFO of my way or face the consequences. Soooo worth 14k....If i had a spare 14k in my trouser pocket.

Pretty open ended question mate. Best motor will depend on your fabrication skills, knowledge and of coarse, budget. Personally I think the best motor is a 4age. Simple conversion, reasonable power, and you can have some great fun with it if you also do some basic suspension mods. But hey, if you have an endless amount of money and time, do something stupid and put a 1uz in it or what ever floats your boat...The "best" motor is one that you are capable of putting in, handling , and being able to afford. If you want sometihing simple, put in a 5k, or even 7k if you feel a little more ambitious. but If you want more power it will cost more money etc. Best motor will basicalally be narrowed by your budget. Also, if you are on your Ps then "best" motor is a 4k. as it is the only legal motor you can drive wiht in that car... my 2c. ps: drunk as

Cheers, thanks heaps for that info Felix. :jamie: I am "expecting" the head back this week, so I guess I'll do as per that link you sent, and find out actually what the preload is, then go from there. Is what Coln72 said about grinding down the rocker posts the best solution to increasing preload should I need more? Or would either skimming the head down, or having the lifters ground down be better options. I know I am probably thinking ahead of myself at the moment, as chances are I may not have to worry, but I am trying to straighten out all the different bits of information in my head and make better sense of it. There is alot to learn when doing this type of work. ;) -Alex

Hmm, thanks for that response Coln72. Maybe I should just put it in and see how it goes then? :'( What's the worst that can happen :jamie: Also, when fitting the reground camshaft, is it a necessity to have the lifters refaced? When I dropped off the head at the engine builders, the guy there said that the lifters would need to be refaced, however, I am unsure if it is okay to not have them done, as I know someone that runs a reground camshaft but never had the lifter refaced. I guess I am just trying to figure out exactly what I can and can't do in order to have it all working properly. I don't particular want to be spending extra money on things if it is fine to go without them, and, not knowing what needs doing means that for all I know, the engine builder could be trying to get as much money out of me as he can. ;) If anyone has any one else has info regarding the matter, please fire away. :'( -Alex

Hey guys, I just have a little question regarding running a reground cam profile in my 5K engine I am in the process of building. Now, I am aware that having the cam shaft reground will have an affect on lifter preload and valve clearances, but what I am unsure about is how to correct this as there is no way to adjust the rocker gear as the 5K has hydraulic lifters, and I don't particularly want to convert to solids. Basically, if the cam lobe diameters have been reduced by x, that means that the pushrods will be now that much too short for the rocker arms, am I correct? :'( So, if I get the head shaved by the same value x, will that cancel out the reduction of the lobe centres resulting in lifter preload to be corrected? I don't know if I am on the right track here so that is why I am after help. :'( Just need to know, will shaving the head down by the same amount as the lobe centre reduction maintain normal preload and thus allowing me to put the camshaft in and have the engine running? And, if not, what do I need to do to get it to work? ;) The engine in question is a dished piston 5K running standard hydraulic lifters, and the cam profile is a Tighe 104. I have been looking around on here and the internet, but, due to the fact that this is my first engine build, having a second opinion(correct advise) helps alot. ;) Thanks for you time, -Alex :y: Edit: A picture might explain what I am trying to get across easier, so Ill post one up tomorrow if I get time. :jamie:

Hey Mickey, You'd be the bloke from Wagga Wagga building a rally KE/AE yeah? If I have the right person, I do believe I have a spare pair of twin piston 'Rona calipers stashed under my house going to no use which I'd be happy to part with if you want them. They were from a mates XT130 which I then acquired from him only a year or so ago. They might be an ok fit on the ST1*1 struts you have. I don't know how much stopping power your after, but if you want these, send me a PM or something :dance: -Alex

Cheers mate. The Cam grind done to the new camshaft was a Tighe 104 grind. I don't know alot about working out what is the best grind to use, but, I am basically following what Medicine_Man uses as I will have a similar build. Can't say I know anything about the 474 grind. I was only looking at the 104 and 154 grinds.

Well, It wasn't quite Christmas in July, however, it was still a good week this week as both the exhaust and camshaft arrived at my doorstep. (thanks to 7Shades and Medicine_man respectively :lol: :P: ) The aim this week is to take the head and cam specs to an engine builder in town and try get some new valve springs to suit, as I think they are the last missing piece of the puzzle. Have a good stock pile of part being acquired in the garage, so I can't wait till it is all together and ready to go in. Also been considering trying to get my hands on KE20 as a daily driver so I can take my 70 off the road and do the engine conversion properly. I've seen a couple getting around town with old lady drivers, so, I'm thinking a nice offer of cash may or may not be able to persuade them to sell it to me.

Ha ha, yeah. I sort of figured that the money will be better off going towards the car. Ps3 would be nice, but I doubt I'd use the thing enough. Hey man Yeah your old 5K right there. Cleaned and painted and rebuilt now. :S Just waiting on the reground camshaft to arrive in the mail (thanks Justin ;)) then the block will be done. Atleast the slow progress gives me a chance to build up some more money. :D

I run these wheels on my KE70. I am *pretty* sure they are Sigma Turbo rims or something along those lines.

Jesus, how many cops does it take to check out a single KE70? I count 5. What's the go with the cop taking photos? I've never been defected before (touch wood) so I don't really know what they do to you.

Ahh took the words right out of my mouth. Perhaps use the trolley handle as a base for a multi tier GT wing. Also, if it needs more Powah, you could spray paint a great, big, dirty front mount onto it.

Hey mate. I could remove the air filter, but it won't show anything helpful :yes: The carb has had the choke removed sometime in it previous life, so the "square valves" are non existent. Sorry, I can't help you find out where they hook up, as I have only ever had mine w/out a choke. You might get the info you need from another Rollaclub member, other wise, look on the net for a 32/36 Weber exploded diagram. That should show you what is connected to the choke plates.

Here is a picture of a 32/36 on a 4K, which is essentially the same thing.

Pretty impressive band you guys have got going there Simsey. I havn't listened to that genre of music for a while, but still, it made me bust out my Psycroptic album. Quite impressed by your drumming too. If you guys come on an Australian tour make sure you swing by Wagga :hmm: In other news: Got me my dream guitar finally! Schecter C7 Hellraiser <3 :)

Looks great Marvis. Love the 2 tone paint job and front lip. More neg offset should toughen it right up :)

Maybe try the rear section and window from a Datsun 1200 ute? Might do the trick.