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Adding to the list of things that grind my gears: Using no more gaps at work. I swear, no matter how hard I try to not get any on me, I always get it all over my fingers and clothes. Then once it dries, it is a pain in the arse to get off.

Haha! Damn straight. I got inspired by Justin's yellow daily after seeing it on the "tube" ages ago. A single carb just won't cut it after what I heard and saw. :yak: Also, I think that new rims may have out weighed getting a PS3 with my tax return money. I tried on a freind's set of SSR's last night, I think it looks pretty nice. They were 15x7 +26 and filled the standard guards perfectly at the front, but came well short on the rear. 15x8 +8 should work alot better on the rear. Front: And yesterday I picked up my new rings, bearings and gasket set, so this weekend the fun begins on the block. :)

If the 3K one fails, throw a Weber at it. Piss easy to install and will do the same thing as the 3K carbie. Also, you should be able to pick one up for cheap and adaptor plates come and go pretty often.

Cheers mate. Yeah hopefully it will be smooth sailing from here in regards to the engine. The last of the rebuild pieces should be here tomorrow (fingers crossed) so from there I can actually start to put it back together. Will probably be a while before it is in and running though :D

Thanks Johno. Yeah my old man and I fixed up all the dings and gave it a shot of paint not long after I bought it. The original paint was screwed. Had massive crow's feet across the bonnet and also it was all faded to metal across the roof, boot lid and bonnet. It's a bit rough and has a few runs in it near the roof, but it looks a crap load better than what it looked like to begin with. And if you were talking about the 5K block, I painted that also.

Got the correct pushrods from Toyota today, and at trade price too. I think they must have felt a bit guilty about their lack of help before so I saved about $20 with the new ones. For anyone else who may read this in the future: 13781-13081 is the correct part number for 150mm pushrods for a dished piston 5K with hydraulic lifters. Thank you to everyone who contributed with information, especially TRD who gave me exactly what I needed. :D It is very appreciated. -Alex :yes:

Wow. Sounds and looks verrry nice :D Top work.

Ahh righto. I won't ask. :D

That would be my engine bay in that pic. Engine is a 4K-C but I removed all/most of the emission's gear when the Weber went on. All you need to do is connect the the Vacuum Advance from the dizzy and the fuel line and it should run. I'd say it should be pretty much the same idea if you are trying to use a 3K carbie as opposed to a Weber. I think there is a picture of Medicine Man's old Nikki carb set up on a 4K in the FAQ which I used to work out what emission lines could be blocked/removed.

Hey guys, gals and in between. Been on here for a while now and only realised then that I didn't have a project thread so I thought it'd be time to make one. Also because I am bored. ;) Car started out as a bog stock 83 KE70 CS which I picked up for $500 complete with a lot of dings and original metallic paint which had lost all of its colour so was just basically metal. Nethertheless, it also had 6 months rego and was a good base to start with, as I was only on my L's then. All the work has been done by myself and my old man so he has saved me money and taught me alot about it. Being my only car, nothing to major is being carried out on it as I need to get to work daily, so it is all slow progress. I am building it as a daily that I can have some fun in so it is more setup for drift rather than grip or comfort. Mods so far: - Panel beat and full respray by my old man - 32/36 Weber to replace the standard Aisan that crapped itself - Corona struts converted to coilovers with new KYB inserts and 7kg/mm springs. Also using Corona brakes with 2 spot calipers. - Corona LCAs - Rear has new KYB shocks and 5kg/mm springs. - Tacho dash so I knew how much harder I could rev the 4K. - Some mad 13x6 low offset polished steel wheels I taxed from a friend ;) - Rollaclub URL sticker across rear window and KE70.com sticker :( Mods to come: - New wheels. Rewinds or SSR Mesh. - 5K with twin DHLA40s, cam regrind etc. - And exhaust to suit ^ That's 2 years of my car in a nutshell so basically now I'll just throw up some pictures for anyone interested to look at. Before: After: Things to come: Well that's it for now. Hope some people like it. :jamie: Thanks for watching.

Well, today I got my old man to contact another Toyota dealership in a nearby town to enquire about the 13781-13081 part number that TRD suggested, as I was at work. Turns out that they have 7 in stock in the warehouse, also that they are 5K pushrods :( . The blokes here in Wagga are just a bunch of lazy, arrogant kents. The main guy in charge has been there over 15 years, and was trying to tell me that there was only one type of 5K engine. I hate the fact that I get treated like crap here because I am only young(ish).;) . At the moment I am just waiting for the guys at Tumut Toyota to give me a length measurement for them so I know if they are the 150mm ones I need. That way I know I am actually getting the right ones. Hey Philbey, thanks for the offer mate. I'd probably accept it if I was getting nowhere with Toyota, but the guys from Tumut are helping alot, so I will just go with the new ones as I've already paid $90.00 for the wrong ones. Yeah I found all of that out after I had got a hold of the 3K items. (6 P's etc. ;)) But as I stand at the moment, the 5K is in good nick, so I am not going to bother trying to track down all of the required parts to convert to solid lifters. The only thing that needs replacing is the pushrods as some are bent to roughly 120o. Nevertheless, It is good information. I guess though I could post another question as a bit off topic, and that being, is there any real advantage to converting to solid lifters in an engine that is only going to see 6500-7500 RPM occasionally?

Happy birthday Raven ;) Also, ;) to the CoB flag.

Yeah lol but I decided to give up on the solid lifter conversion. Ironically because I thought that it would be easier to just get some new pushrods for the 5k rather than source a set of A12's in good nick. Apparently not ;) Edit: For anyone who may find this useful: 3K solid lifters are too smaller diameter to run in the 5K block.

Yeah the typo part was a bit of sarcasm ;) Just my way of saying that I didn't think they were the most switched-on guys about. Also, I'm not running solids. I am using standard 5K hydro lifters. Have a set of 3K lifters and pushrods in the garage that I was experimenting with (which failed I may add). They are cup-ball and about 30mm longer = not gonna work in the 5k:P

Awesome, thanks for that info TRD ;) I'll go and order those tomorrow. ;) Makes me wonder what the hell I've been given then. Wouldn't put it past 'em that they made a typo on the label.

Hey there people, Well it's a long story, but I'll do my best to cut it short :lovin: I ordered some new 5K pushrods from Toyota last week and went to pick them up today. Basically got there, compared my one from my engine to the new ones, and hmmm the new ones are too long. So, I ask the guy to have a look to find the part number for the pushrods from the varied 5K models (flat top pistons/solid lifters). So anyway, the guy goes and gets help from another guy. So now two people there ask me if I am certain I have a 5K and with my response the guys looks through the computer muttering stuff the the first guy, "Check the YH** Tarago, I think they had 5K's" :D Funnily enough he gives up and goes and gets a 3rd guy. Talk to him. He asks me what car it is out of. Told him from a KM something LiteAce. Asked him to look through the other model 5K's. He tells me that there is only 1 model 5k and there were none with solid lifters etc. After a brief talk, and him "telling" me I have the ones I need, I took them just to get out of there. Also told him they would be coming straight back for a refund if they are wrong. End of story. Anyway, I've had a search on here, and came up with that yes there is different model 5K's. So I was correct in saying that to the 3 Toyota guys. Also that the part numbers 13781-13081 & 13781-13091 correspond to 5K hydraulic lifters according to TRD (who I trust). The ones I got given though, are 13781-13100 and measure 156mm (apparently from a KM36). The engine I have is a 5K with hydraulic lifters and dished pistons and the pushrods measure 150mm. Well, at the moment I am really just after a part number for the correct 150mm pushrods so I can go in there tomorrow and just tell them the part number I need rather than to have to sit there and watch them search through Tarago Y series engines... If anyone know the part number for a 150mm pushrods please let me know. I am sure some of the more experienced members on here would have had to get new ones in their time :yes: I do apologise for the rant, just a little annoyed as the pushrods are the last items I need for the engine. Cheers, Alex.

Onto page 43 now :D Crazy. Something that grinds my gears: Having to work 4 and a half hours overtime on a Friday. Missed out on Happy Hour :P

I don't think hitting the struts or guards will be a problem. More so the fact that those rims are 4 x 100pcd and a KE70 is 4 x 114.3. Good luck even getting them onto the hub.

Seriously, that is absolutely amazing what you have do to the car. It is nothing short of beautiful how it has turned out after all your time and effort put into it :( Can't wait to see it with better rims fitted, but even as it is now, it is awesome. :) :) :yes: :yes: :no2: :hmm: To your hard work. Cleanest KE70 to date.

I was under the impression that any modified vehicle is prohibited from being driven by an L or P plater. So, if you are driving a fully engineered 4AGE KE70, although the engine is engineered, it is still a different engine to the one that the car was released with, therefore modified and illegal. I'm sure the rules vary between state to state, but I sent an inquiry to the RTA about converting to a 4AGE in my KE70 and got this as a response. Pretty much, just because the car may be engineered, it is still a change in performance, and the car would be prohibited for new drivers. If you want a 4AGE, get an AE82, if you want RWD, get a KE70/AE71/AE86, but to legally have get both, your only option is a JDM AE86 (Be prepared to sell a kidney for it). If it's your first car, just get something that will keep you happy and is cheap to run. Save your pennies and when you get off your P's do the conversion. That might be the legal maximum power for a <1000 kg vehicle, but I can hardly see that just because you get it engineered, it will mean a P or L plater can drive it. I just can't see a KE70 that goes from 20kw to 200kw being legal, let alone safe for a P or L plater. If you find a way around it, then that is awesome :( but I remain sceptical that it is legal for a new driver.

Holy Crap, someone else who thinks like I do. My first thought after the game was that I bet they set it up so they could promote a "decider" etc :lolcry: I swear the teams played a complete role reversal of each others performances in the first game. Even the ref seemed to favor Qld as opposed to the favored calls to NSW in game one. Oh well, tis' over now. Lets take bets for game three. My guess is 26-14. Qld over NSW.

Hey mate, When I did my brake upgrade on my KE70 I had to grind a couple of mm of the side of the caliper as to clear the rim. I didn't take of much so in all I think there is about 1-2 mm clearance between the caliper and the rim. I have had them on there for about 6 months or more now, and still haven't had any issues. I'd say problems may occur depending on calipers used, but I know with mine they are ok. If you have clearance with the rim and caliper as it is, I'd say leave it. -Alex

Thanks for all the fast responses guys. It is a good help. My initial thought was to just find suitable screws from the local "nuts and bolts" in town, however, I would like to have the original items just due to the fact that they will fit 100% correctly. I think I will give that number a call that you posted mikey_m. If you know they can get Dellorto parts, I will just do a big order as I also need to get all the correct jets/emulsion tubes/chokes to suit a warm 5K. Going to be painful. :P But, just to answer my own question regarding DCOE screws and Dellorto ones, when I have to go to pick up my manifold/linkages from a performance workshop in town, I'll also just order a Weber DCOE screw so I can test it and throw the results up here for future reference. Thanks everyone for your input, is a great help :P I'll update this when I try the DCOE screw. -Alex

Hello all, I am currently rebuilding a pair of DHLA40 carburetors for my new engine and I came across a problem which I thought I'd throw up on here to see if anyone knows the answer. One of the carbs has at some stage in it's previous life had the butterflies removed and when I bought them (ebay) the brass screws that hold them in place were missing. Now, I've been searching in town for replacement ones however I can only find people who can order in Weber items, not Dellorto. My question is, are the screws that hold the butterflies to the shaft in a DCOE weber the same/interchangeable with DHLA carbs? I don't have access to a DCOE carb, so I can't compare myself. If anyone has any info, please just let it fly as it will be a great help :P Cheers, Alex.

Ummm.... What?