snot35

Fundamentally, all the side drafts of equal size have the same performance potential. Where it gets sticky is getting parts for the buggers. Webers, for example, are highly configurable. You can change venturis, emulsions, a heap of jets, accel pumps and more, to match them perfectly to your engine. The problem is getting these parts. Solex's will work, but you'll have a lot of trouble finding parts to tune them. Same with Dellortos, but to a lesser extent. I'm even having trouble finding the bits I want for my Weber, and that's one of the more popular carburettors. If I were going to go side draft, I'd stick with Webers. They have more support. I'd probably stay with 25/65 for the street. The wilder you go, the more you really should change for it to work well. Mike

My early KE30 sedan has a 3K-H too. Is the H really high compression? How high? Mike

It doesn't sound like much extra lift, although you'd have to measure it to be sure. 290 is a lot duration wise though. To be quite honest, you'll just have to try it and see. It should be reasonably drivable with it having lower lift, and you could probably get away with only stock springs as it's not running much more lift. But if you're going to spend the money, you'll probably find upgraded springs are a similar price anyway. Just make sure there is no binding and you should be good. If I had the time and ability to jet the cam properly, I'd try it out and see if it's any good. If it's OK I'd grab new springs and do it all properly.

It's not actually the seals that are used in braking that's probably stuffed, it's more likely the seal that separates the two circuits in the master. It will probably pull up fine until all the fluid is gone. Either way, rebuild!! Mike

I had this happen on an old Datto, and I wouldn't be suprised if it's the same thing. Basically each cylinder is fluid for either the rear or front braking circuit. What's probably happened is that a seal has gone in your master, and so whenever you put the brake on it pumps fluid from on circuit to the other, but it can't return. At least, this is what happened with my old Datto master. Sounds to me like it's time to get it rebuilt. Mike

I wouldn't do it for a daily. I'm sure with exhaust and weber you draw enough attention, without having a car that chirps when you go around low speed corners. High speed corners are also a little scarey and they are pretty unreliable. Too much trouble I think, especially for a car that probably isn't producing crazy power levels. Mike

It's a budget project, so I'm going to avoid twins for the moment. Thanks once again for the tips, sounds like it's exactly the starting point I need. Now to chase down jets. Thanks Mike

Thank you very much!! That's brilliant, you have a factory manual?? Do you the head height limits?? Thank you again, that's great. Mike

Thanks all, that's pretty much what I had in mind. Any ideas about the springs? Cheers Mike

G'day old corolla bloke! Thanks very much, that's pretty much what I was thinking, 32mm chokes, and around 130 main 180 correct, but I'll take experience over guesses! I also didn't know where to start with the idle jets. If everything goes to plan I'll be picking up a 42 DCOE on the weekend. Odd size, but good deal, the only problem should be getting auxilaries and chokes, but I'm sure I can manage something. I'm planning on doing a lot of work to make sure it breathes properly, so matching is definitely on the agenda. What sort of setup did you run that weber setup on?? Thanks for your help. Mike

G'day, Can anyone give me a starting point for a single weber on a ported 3k with extractors? Choke and jets sizes? Cheers Mike

G'day everyone, I'm mucking around with the head on a 3K, can anyone tell me what the normal height from head gasket face to cam cover gasket face is? How much can these heads be shaved?? It's a later type head with the normal style valve retainers, and tiny 25mm intake ports! Soon to change though ;) Anyone know what the seat pressure of stock springs is? Cheers Mike

Mine gets a vibration at 60. I've had a look under the car and the tail shaft is loose going into the back of the gearbox. I think there might be a bushing in the tail of the gearbox, or a bearing, that is no good any more. Reach under the car and try and move the tailshaft both ends. If there is movement or clunking then it's either uni joints, or the bearings either end Mike

Cheers, that's a start! I don't mind spending a little more on shocks, with the little power I'll have it's important I don't slow down. I was thinking of talking to Pedders. How much advance do you suggest? Cheers Mike

G'day folks, I'm lucky enough to have just picked up a 1975 KE30 in quite good condition, for a carton of beer! My intention is to use this as a second car to do a bit of rally sprinting and khanacrossing in. It's also quite possible that it will be a daily driver, it's just so fuel efficient, and my girlfriend loves it! So, getting to my question, what mods would everyone do to get this thing going faster? It does OK at the moment, but more is always better. I'd like to spend as little as possible, and will source a lot of things from these forums, ebay, and the u pullit. I'm thinking I might try and get stiffer springs, and firm up the rear. Maybe some new shocks to suit the springs, any recommendations? I'll also try and source another head and try my hand at porting it. Not sure about induction yet. I'd like to do the exhaust as well, and maybe a quite mild cam. So, where should I start? Cheers Mike