snot35

I had a quick look on the Sunday. Shame there weren't more cars, but we've covered that. A quick thing that bugged me and the people that I was with, does the loudest exhaust thing have to be done with the cars as displayed? I'm sure someone will say I'm too old (:P) but it wrecked it a bit for me. It was lovely weather, it's a good setting, having a something revving its tits off right next to me when I'm trying to check things out is really off putting. Maybe I'm not enough of a hoon, but my mate who is another medium level car nut didn't really get into it either. Maybe you could have a "testing bay" or something?

Anyone notice the adjustable struts on the front? It sort of looks like they retainers similar to valve springs... Neat!

I've often thought "it can't be that hard" to make one as well. One day. I saw this motor in Tokyo, I should have grabbed part numbers for you guys :)

I think this is where things start getting into a grey area with cages. I think you can have a six point, but it has to be a certain distance away from the occupants. You can't have side impact protection, which if you're rallying, you want. I think you're going to have a lot of trouble with normal car registration. Contact a local car club, they should have a rally registration scheme. I don't think you're going to be able to keep normal rego. With normal rego you won't be allowed a hydro hand brake, as well as a bunch of other mods. You could rego it and do all the mods afterwards, but you'll probably get done for it, and alienate the majority of the rally community in the process, which may make it hard to race :)

Go here for cage specs: http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/10_gen_re...dule_J_Q110.pdf I'd also say bolt in to start. But do NOT go for the lightest possible cage if you're doing genuine rally. You want a decent amount of cross bracing and side impact protection. A decent cage will also ensure that your shell will last a decent amount of time and might even handle reasonably well depending on the cage. For seam welding you're probably going to want to do the majority of the shell in a Corolla, at least around chassis rails, strut towers and all suspension pickups. Bolt in is good, because if you don't bend it every now and then, you're not trying :) Also, don't hole saw the parcel shelf. As the fuel tank is in the boot you need a fire proof bulkhead separating the passenger compartment and the boot. If you chop it up you'll only have to fill it in later. Here's some reading for you: http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/04_rally_...roup_3_Q110.pdf http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/04_rally_...-PRC_Q110_1.pdf http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/04_rally_..._Rally_Q110.pdf http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/04_rally_..._Rally_Q110.pdf Pick your class, and have fun! :fuzz:

KE30 legs are just too small for anything decent, are you allowed to strut swap?

Now that's just a mean thing to do, posting something that is effectively made of unobtainium for us mere mortals.

Well that's a fair point. But if you really thrash your car on the road it doesn't fair a whole lot better. And to backup philby, there is definitely practise days that you can take anything to as long as it's safe and road worthy. Last time I checked Malalla was $80 or so for a fang and a day licence. You can get into a basic dirt event for about $50. There's very few excuses.

Yeah, build yourself a bench Felix, it isn't that hard! My problem is finding the time to use it :)

We're interested in reliability too please! :)

Here here. What, you want to drive at 100 on city streets because the government won't build you a racetrack? It's always someone else's fault isn't it! I don't mind natural selection catching up with these people, it's just sad to waste good cars and take out other people in the process.

Couldn't agree more. These guys would be spending serious coin to get power that could be more easily had more cheaply with an engine swap. I think the only reasons to tune a K motor would be cost, to keep it period, or class restrictions.

That A14 is bigger in displacement and running methanol. If we're assuming readily available pump petrol that's a completely different ball game.

Not to mention it not being a twin cam. I believe the 150E got up around that on a 3K block, but we're talking a twin cam motor. I don't think 4K's breathe well enough for that, and even if they did, I'd be doubting the half counter balanced crank and valve train would be able to keep up. Have a read of billzilla.org. He used to race a bored 3K in his clubman and that had all the tricks. They were pushing about 130. 160 would have to be an optimistic dyno I reckon.

Rust, structural damage, cracks in any suspension bushes, play in steering boxes, ball joints and rod ends. Any fluid leaks from engine, gearbox, diff, brake masters, brake slaves, safe tyres (duh) and probably anything that increases emissions or deviates you from ADR's relevant at the time of the cars production. Caveat, I've never had to go through regency, but they're basically trying to make sure your car is safe, roadworthy, and environmentally friendly. That covers a lot! If I had to do it, I'd be checking all the above and more.

Yes, it's the whistling pig. If I had enough $$$ I'd love to build a replica. 2.1 turbo with enough grunt, but not much traction = fun :)

The gutters may even be letting in water, which runs and pools just about everywhere. The bottoms of all pillars could be shot as well. If you've already got access to the tools and someone with experience, plus you're really keen, then it could be an OK DIY project. Otherwise, as mentioned, you've got buckleys of finding a replacement skin. Sadly, it might be one to just drive into the ground.

Yeah I work right by that place. Thanks for the info everyone. I just wondered if the rare spares ones were just the Thai ones at a premium, or if they were actually better. Cheers all!

He drives a rota, of course he doesn't mind his wallet being empty! :D Sorry, couldn't resist :jamie: I was nearly going to suggest the IDA throttle body approach too, but you'd still need to do some fab. Actually, rote's have a far less problem with boost and high compression than piston engines do. You'd probably be about to run a reasonable amount of boost through a normal compression motor without too much trouble.

From my somewhat old knowledge of rotes, it's probably easier to buy a 12a turbo or 13b turbo package and drop it in. Unless you have some fab skills then you'll struggle with manifolds. Not a small job which ever way you go.

Anyone tried the reproduction window rubbers on ebay that seem to come from Thailand? Are they any good? What's a good source for window rubbers otherwise, is rarespares the only other option? Cheers

It's not worthless, you might just need to cut a hole for the shifter. I'm sure you'd be able to swap or sell it to a KE3X or KE5X owner and then get a KE70 box. Can't verify the shifter position at the moment. It looks about right for a KE5X box, but I can't be bothered going into the shed to double check :)

To me that seems like a lot for a computer that probably won't like much changed from stock (head work, different cams, compression), and injectors that are probably quite small. If you're going for a reliable almost stocker then it's probably OK. If you're half good at fab work and tinkering I'd be DIYing a manifold and going for something with a bit more tunability.

For that lumpy idle, definitely bigger is better. Don't tune the carbs or change the exhaust either, it will sound nasty. Forget about it being drive able though :D

Surely everyone loves the sound of a decent 16v at full noise :dance: