snot35

:) Excellent, concise roundup. Might even be wiki worthy?

Be careful with that. It really depends why there is water in the oil, do a decent amount of investigation if you can. It may be corrosion somewhere, it may be a BHG, and depending on what happened when it went, things may need a skim so that it all seals properly when reassembled. If you don't mind maybe blowing the $50 then just whack it in and see what happens. Otherwise I'd spend a little more time checking everything is OK before putting it back together.

I figured it would be something like that, I just can't recall seeing it done on a rally car before? I know my old one always stopped in water crossings :) So what class are you aiming for? After seeing the classics at ROSA I keep thinking a Webered 4age 70 would be awesome. It's not in the rules yet, but RA4x celicas can run 3SG's, so it can't be that hard. Whack some flares on it, awesome..... :D

He doesn't have a fuel injected car. I think you'd be able to do OK tuning with a narrow. Certainly much better than tuning by feel. If you can spare the money though, the wideband is something that will be in the toolkit, and be very handy, for a very long time! Get the tech edge 2J. It's already built and is a plug in proposition. If you can scrounge an old laptop and drop the display it's only a bit more expensive. The 2Y is a kit. If you're confident with electronics it'd be fine. Otherwise it will probably cost you a penny to get it built.

I notice an ignition coil inside the cockpit. What's the reason for that?

I guess you have to work with what you've got. There does seem to be alternatives coming up, but I'm not sure if they've made it to Queensland yet.

Don't start with 4wd as suggested. Expensive to run and fix. It's crucial you choose something you enjoy driving, that you can afford to fix, and that you're not too attached to when you start. You will roll it into a ball, so make sure panels are available and cheap. Excel's do fit the bill if you can handle the Hyundai thing. Also read most of this: www.camsmanual.com.au

I'll have a crack at this. Please note I'm not a professional in the field or an engineer, just an enthusiast. From my understanding, the pressure waves are created whenever there is any great change in volume or an obstruction to reflect off of. If you have ITB's and then a plenum then you will probably get a minor reflection from the throttle plates, and then a larger one from the volume change of the plenum. This reflection probably wouldn't be as big as if it were a single plate on the plenum, as there is nothing to disperse the reflection. However, if you're building a motor for torque then more than one reflection may actually be desirable if you get it right. It's akin to having two runners that you switch between. I believe Ford and Porsche have used this system, among others. To completely not answer the question, how long is a piece of string? It all depends on runner length, diameter, plenum design as well as how much cold air your plumbing in. Probably the bigger question is what are your resources, and your design goals?

I've found it takes digging. If I recall www.dellorto.co.uk carries DCD stuff, however to find it you really need part numbers. Search the internet for Weber DCD and you should be able to find an exploded parts diagram. Then search using the weber part number. There are a few places around that do them, but it will most likely be mail order from OS.

I've also got some if you get stuck.

She's turning up a beauty! Top work.

Get onto club-k.co.nz and talk to blown5k. A while ago he was getting upright style side draft manifolds cast. I dare say he'd have a fair bit of into.

It's probably lobe lift rather than valve lift. It needs to be multiplied by 1.5

Do you have the advertised duration at all? There is really bugger all difference between those two cams. Both will probably be annoying to drive. What sort of car is it in?

If you're first in, that means you have to tell everyone else what is left when you've finished ;)

Yeah I saw slo-038 going down Winston Avenue last night heading toward Daws road. So it's not someone on here?

If you're not going to do internal mods to the motor, the 20v is probably better in that it's newer and has most likely done less k's. If you're going to go nuts tuning it then theoretically the 16v is a better choice. But there are a whole lot of caveats to that.

This is a hell of a head clean up! I look forward to seeing the results :jamie:

I was going to suggest a caliper not working, but I assumed when he said he didn't have any brakes, it couldn't be that :jamie: :blush:

How well kitted is your shed? You're either going to spend a lot of coin, or have to fab a whole lot of stuff yourself. Having said that, it is damn cool!

Functionally I doubt it's going to make much difference to you. Mount up the carb you're going to use, if you choose to use the manifold that has the same size opening. As long as there isn't a step under the space you're good to go. Oh, and I'd check which one has the biggest ports on the face where it bolts to the head :jamie:

Damn you Toy-Yoda :jamie:

Back off on the capitals and big fonts, it really doesn't make people want to help. It probably needs a wheel alignment or worst case the chassis could be bent. You can check that sort of thing to a very basic level with some brains and a tape measure. For the brakes I'd start with a simple visual inspection. Get all the wheels off and check all the cylinders aren't leaking, check the master isn't leaking. Get someone to help you and see if any of them move when you hit the pedal. If they're all good then give them a bleed and see how that goes. If it doesn't then work out why. Do some pistons move but not others? Is there fluid pissing out lines/cylinders etc. etc. Good luck.

3k heads also go down to around the 25mm mark, so you could well have a 3k manifold on a 4k head at a wrecker to display that overlap. At the end of the day it's largely irrelevant. There's quite a few here telling you those port sizes are ample for your motor. If you can get a manifold of a suitable size to match it then that's your best bet. Modifying one would be the second and next best option and probably time better spent than hanging around in a wreckers measuring a whole lot. But hey, I kind of like scouting wreckers as well :bash:

Factor in that these are old cars, engines and ancillaries are changed quite often. Mechanics can put anything on if the customer knows no better and they have something handy. I tried to register my 30 and found that the engine in it had been stolen at some stage! Those ports look big. People have verified they're big. If you're able to find the matching manifold then that would be a good thing. But, you're on a budget, so run what you've brung. From my limited knowledge of porting so far, I'd say those ports are definitely big enough for the valves you probably have in that head. If you're keen you could spend the money on a burr, grab your power drill and smooth out any sharp edges in the port. Beyond that it's going to cost you a bit. That's all there is to it!