snot35

Sure, but they are designed for NA. I'd be thinking you'd struggle to find the right spring weights etc to ensure that that pressure difference can be managed properly so that the needle covers a usable range. I certainly can't recall seeing many blow through SU setups, I'd imagine there's a reason for it.

I don't know that blow through would work, as the piston relies on pressure differences to move. Plenty of people have done draw through without trouble, but people generally avoid using intercoolers so there isn't a whole lot of fuel air mix hanging around. That's a bit of a disadvantage. Keep piping short if you can as well.

Another option: Linky If you don't mind ebay and getting your hands dirty. Something based around the Bosch BIM024 module will actually make a really strong ignition. These setups are very powerful.

Also if you shave the head you'll have to re tweak your cam timing. Adjustable gears will be the go.

Keep in mind the advance on these seems to be a bit of a compromise. Keep an eye on this thread: Linky

If you're talking a new computer and cams, or different pistons, then maybe selling and getting a GZE package isn't such a bad idea..... You'll have potential for more power later on as well...

I'd doubt it. You have to consider that the vehicle wasn't designed to have top arms, so there aren't any structural points where you could mount them. I'd imagine if you're putting together something that needs a 9 inch, then you'd want to be strengthening the chassis as well. I won't last long otherwise.

Improvise! Empty egg cartons perhaps? As long as you have a spot where no one is going to muck with it/tip it over you're laughing.

It seems that it is a kit from the '80's. This is good and bad. It appears that parts are probably no longer available, so if ever goes bang that's probably it. On the bright side it should mean that I've still got a suitable 4K ignition curve, so it should run pretty well. For future reference I've attached the installation manual. bosch points conversion.pdf

Legendary work altezza, as always. I'm sure I'll refer to this as I sort my electronic dizzy.

Mine is a Bosch. Does anyone know about the Bosch distributors? I'm actually a little surprised by the setup that I've just received. Bosch body with an optical sensor plugging into what looks like it might be a CDI box? Then it hooks up to a Bosch HEC coil. I always thought that K electronic ignition was Denso and hall effect or similar, not optical. I'm told it works, but haven't had a chance to try yet. Edit: Actually, what I have looks exactly like this. A bit of an initial search and it looks like a Bosch kit, part EK40. Can't find more though. Hopefully that means my dizzy is still from a 4K and the advance hasn't been ruined!

Wouldn't locking the dizzy at 10 degrees make things difficult as well? Especially if you're trying to get it to rev.

Does anyone know what the advance on a 4K electronic dizzy is like? Cheers Mike

Finally grabbed a few hours this weekend. The wheel is finally on with a new 35mm spacer. Sits much better so I can squeezy my lanky legs in. Picked up the seat and started trying to mount that. I forgot what a horrible job this is! Ended up hacking up the stock mounts to get both lower runners. I'm thinking of removing the rail, using the feet and welding up some sort of steel square frame in RHS and welding the feet on that. I think that will be the easiest way to keep the whole lot level and make it strong. The horn button will go in when I get to centre the wheel. The seat feels very nice though and saves around 5 kilos. Might be less when I give it a decent mounting though! :/ I'm slowly getting the cockpit sorted though, so I'm happy about that :)

I'm not sure about AE92. Look up the $250 brake upgrade thread on toymods. Basically your KE70 has really skinny struts. As a result there are very few shock absorbers that will fit. You want a bigger diameter strut (51mm). This will allow a huge choice of shocks, from basic through to performance, as well as making it easier to convert to coil overs etc. etc. Probably the best option is AE86 to be honest. Plenty of shock and spring choice, brake upgrade kits, power steering arms etc. If you use different struts then you'll have to work those details out yourself. Corona struts and Celica struts are other options, but you'll need to do more research. I think the RA63 Celica's will bugger up your camber, and you'll need longer control arms, camber tops, or both. The others might be similar. Work out what your budget is and what you want to achieve with the car. I'd suggest that if your shocks allow that much bouncing that your car is potentially unsafe and this is one of the very first things you'd want to address. If you can afford a strut upgrade along with new shocks then do it, otherwise just new shocks will make quite a difference and the car will feel stiffer. From there springs will help as well as work more effectively. If you put stiff springs in with knackered shocks then it could potentially handle more poorly and be less safe.

Shocks are pretty important and unless you change the front struts you're not going to have a whole lot of choice anyway. Welcome to the world of upgrades :)

How good are your shocks?

Carb the 4AGE and pretend it's a 151e (you may have to paint the cam covers so it's a little more convincing) ;)

Oh, also got a T series driveshaft half for the day when it gets a T LSD. It was cheap, so couldn't hurt to put it in the collection.

Just to keep my interest if no one else's, not much work on the car unfortunately. Life is getting in the way! I was lucky enough to recently be in Thailand and managed to get some steering boss extensions and a genuine (hah!) Momo horn button to match the wheel for cheap. I've been messing around with mounting that and called past Coventry's this morning for some extra long counter sunk hex cap screws. I also went along to the first car club meeting to work out what I need to do to get to an event. Unfortunately the events keep falling on the dates of major family events. Weddings, 90th birthdays. ARGH!!!! Still, it hasn't stopped me from accumulating a few goodies for reasonable prices. It should keep me quite busy if I ever get any free time.

Nice, still more than enough to need regular undie changes. I look forward to pictures of the event/said cars :D

Hunt down oldrolla's on toymods. I believe he ran an MS and 7K efi at some stage.

The '86 strut should have a larger outside diameter, around the 51mm mark. The '70 is spindly, like 43mm or something.

Look here 147.5 sounds really weird. They would be too short for a solid lifter that doesn't have the additional guts. You could do something freaky like run the hydro lifters with those rods plus adjustable arms and a 4K head and you'd be OK, as the 5K's that run the normal head and "flat top" pistons run 150mm push rods. It sort of misses the point of running hydro's, but if it works... :)

Dig around megasquirt.info. If I recall there are many different types of idle control valves, and appropriately many different ways to control them. I'm pretty sure you need an MSII or the Squirt'n'Spark add on to control one. I don't know anything about the 7k-e valve, but it might be easier to pinch a valve from something more known and control that.