snot35

Always happy to help a fellow KE70 basher :D

Is this really necessary? Broadly, he asked for recommendations on the best value reliable tie rods available for his Corolla. If what you're all saying is basically any brand is fine in your experience and that any autoparts store will suffice, then why don't you just say that?

Beat me too it! I was going to dig out any mini stuff that I had. It should be a good start...

Not really. There's a good little program around for twins, info for singles is a little harder to find. I'll see if I can find any starting points in my library :)

They're commercially available: http://www.weirperformance.com/spoolslimitedslipunits.html

I'd definitely be keen, but the new few months are looking tumultuous (about to become a Dad). If I can swing it, I will. I've been wanting to check out Tailem for a while.

Single or twin DCOE?

Do you know which version of TE72 struts? I have series 3 struts, they look like they'll fit at the bottom, but maybe not the top?

No, the KE70 springs are straight wound, or at least mine are. Meaning, they are the same diameter at the top as at the bottom. AE86 springs narrow at the top.

So it's been a pretty productive couple of weekends. Last weekend I put in the free sprinter springs that I scored. It jacks up the back a fair amount, it's taking a bit of getting used too. I also mounted the 14" rally tyres. They are huge!! It's all looking a bit 4wd at the moment. It will do but I'm thinking for khana some lowered springs might even be a good thing. This weekend I had a crack at getting in the TE72 struts. In doing so I found that the last owner did the most dodgy of things with the ball joint. The thread on it is munted so he put three thick washers on and engaged as much thread as he could. That was probably about three threads. Getting the arm off required a light tap rather than the constant bashing you usually have to do with a well fitted taper. Oh so dodgy! I'll have to bring forward cleaning up the KE30 arms and new ball joint fitment. So the struts went in quite well and now the front matches the back in it's 4wd look! I didn't hook up the tie rods, so I wasn't able to really roll the car back and forth to settle it, not that that would have made a heap of difference. Still not sure I like it, but the rally tyres don't clear the spring perch on the KE70 struts but do on the TE72 struts. Also the 72 struts are much bigger and have the spring rate that I want, more or less. Plus bigger brakes. The 70 struts are back in while I recondition the TE72 struts. Next khana isn't for quite a few months unfortunately as I'm becoming a Dad in less than a month! We'll have to see how well I'm able to negotiate leave passes.... :)

Yeah those guys have been really helpful to me with setup tips, they're an inspiration! I plan in staying 1300 for quite some time. I need to learn how to drive quickly and will probably sort the handling first. If you can go quick with little power, then more is more! :) I have a locked diff in the back off mine and didn't really notice under steer being too bad. I have some traction issues though, mostly because of god awful back tyres and really hard back springs. I have since softened them up and have some rally tyres now. I haven't had a run yet with the new config though. I'm hoping it will make a big difference. I might also remove the rear bar at some stage.

I'm in the process of doing the same sort of thing with my KE70, I look forward to seeing how you go and maybe stealing a few ideas every now and then :)

And if you're going to go to that sort of effort, do some bike carbs....

I'm not sure about pom SU's, the Hitachi's had a rubber insulated tab that kept the bowl at a particular lean. Hang out for a manifold, while you're doing that save for a set of sideys. Simple.. :)

Yeah good luck at Coffs. Sorry to hear about the motor. Look forward to action vids and pics :)

Oh that is some nice gear! :) Did you get the plates made yourself?

Well you wouldn't technically have to do head work, but as you're uprighting it to improve the breathing it would be a little pointless not to. If you're following the TRD guide then we're talking about oversize valves (38mm and 33mm) from memory and then all the extra work to ensure you can use that extra breathing. This means larger ports at the manifold face. The plate is there because the stock head design uses a limited number of bolts that are shared purpose, i.e. all the bolts clamp the exhaust manifold as well as the intake manifold. This isn't so great when you start stressing the engine more, along with having the extra weight of side draft carbs on longer manifolds. The plate is bolted down with the old bolt holes, then add extra studs for securing the intake and exhaust manifolds. It's all a hell of a lot of work, you'd only want to do it if you really really want to fit into a particular category of racing, or really really really want to be unique.

Thanks for the heads up, I'll have to see if it's still on the Tivo. I must admit I quite like Jari-Matti of all the current WRC crop. He reminds me a little of McRae, he either absolutely flies, or has an off. It's good to watch :D

Grabbed some second hand Bridgestone RE46R's on the weekend which should gain me some traction. They're quite tall unfortunately, but I have to work with what I have, they should still provide a lot more grip along with the spring changes.

Nice work! I'm doing similar stuff with my car, I'm just not as far along with development. Have fun!

Get a lock spacer, they're good for about 25mm and keep the rack ends that you have. I think AJPS do some extra long motorsport tie rods, I don't know of longer racks ends. Another approach that I seem to recall is RA40 tie rods and rod ends, but you'd want to double check that one.

Hi folks, Can anyone tell me the spring perch diameters, both upper and lower, on a KE70 strut? Thanks Mike

I've got a Monza harness in mine. For the moment I've only used the stock belt locations. It's a three point so it goes to the two lap belt bolt holes, as well as to one of the bolt holes where a rear belt buckle would have bolted in. It's passed scrutiny once at a khana so far! There's probably more angle on the belt than I would like, but as khana speeds are so low it doesn't matter. As you'd be doing higher speeds I'd be thinking about 4 points and maybe getting a harness bar of some sort fabbed at the very least. Or wait until you get a cage...

Yeah, the basic philosophy that I'm using is ripped straight out of the Grp4 escort prep manual where the mostly commonly used rates are around 100 in the rear and 150 in the front. I've also spoken with the rally guys on here and that is in the ball part of their setup. I figure the escort setup is probably close enough for all intents and purposes. Now I just need to source some front springs. Still debating whether to get springs for the KE70 strut in there now, or put in the TE72 strut. Unfortunately the 70 struts have good shocks, the 72's are toast. Shocks as well as springs might be out of the budget :/

Working it through with the rally guys, it sounds like my chopped springs (front and back I think) might be a bit too hard for me to get traction. They're also not captive at full droop either, something which I'm not really happy about. Forums to the rescue! I've managed to pick up a pair of AE86 rear springs, uncut, for free! :) So when I get a chance I'll put those it. It's going to raise the car a bit which I'm not super happy about, but it should be OK. I'm also thinking I'll need to source some fronts at the same time so that the ride heights aren't all over the place. Anyone know the diameter of an AE86 spring perch on the strut end? I'm thinking I'll get some Kings for the front, they're supposed to fit 86 struts as well as late 70 struts, so it will save me when I upgrade later on to larger bodies struts. Although, money no object, I really want these: Grp4 style AE86 struts They take a 40mm Bilstein. Sadly, the minister for finance doesn't share my vision :)