snot35

Look up philby's build thread for his wagon. The answer seems to be a lot, and even with a cam with a lot of duration it was still a bit of a pain to get right. You'll probably go through quite a few head gaskets.

The oil's major effect is to limit how quickly it opens. If the piston has only gone so far it's because the suction the motor is asserting on the piston has reached its limit. The only thing that resists this is the weight of the spring in the dash pot, and probably the weight of the piston itself. If it's a problem use a lighter spring, but generally you'd tune the steps on the needle to provide the correct mixture for a given engine air requirement (load/revs etc). Changing the oil dictates the resistance of the piston to movement and has the effect of enriching the mixture for acceleration only. Also check that the butterfly is indeed opening all the way to ensure the full vacuum signal from the motor is reaching the piston. I'd probably also check for air leaks, and make sure that the piston does not bind at any stage in its full range of movement. You should also be able to see down the throat and see that the needle never touches the side of the jet either. Good luck!

That's cool. As long as someone nabs a few videos. That should suffice :) I think I may have seen details of that Group B Celica around the place. How Group B is it? 3TGTE, 390hp? :)

Dang, what's going on Ryan? :) I saw it driving past my window on Richmond Rd this morning, probably on the way to getting it checked out. I hope it worked out OK. Mike

:y: :y: :y: Congrats lads, you must be stoked. I'm assuming the Ballart event is this month? I hope later, I might be able to make it if it isn't this month :)

I think he means pre impregnated sheets of fiber. Not too useful if you don't have access to a large enough autoclave, you need to heat it all to get it to set.

Oh I'll share as much as I can, don't worry about that! Actually your '70 has been one of my inspirations, I'm hoping to do something similar for my airbox when I get the twins on. The SU's are up for sale. I posted the manifold a while back but no one bit. I'm about to go OS so I'll push it again when I get back. I'll likely tune the Weber a bit, as it will be on the car for a while, and then the Dellorto's. I'm not sure I quite have the time to do the SU's as well. I like the idea of being a guru at at least something though! ;) The wideband also has two logging channels, so I'm trying to think of all the crazy things I could hook up to it. Temperature logging, pressure logging, accelerometer, etc. :D

Hey folks, I thought it was about time I put up my new aquisition. I started out with a 1975 KE30 that I intended to take out for the odd khanacross and maybe even rally one day, but it needed a lot of work and I couldn't quite bring myself to being comfortable with bending it. I figured it was probably going to be a little harder to find decent panels when I needed them, so I sold that and picked up something newer. And here she is, a 1984 KE70. It had already been built and taken to khana's a few years ago, but the previous owner has moved into drifting (in his 300kw ATW Soarer!). I'll stick with something cheaper to start. It has a stripped interior, auto 4.3 diff that has been locked, new shocks, 4k with .30 thou shaved off of the head and a DGV Weber. It seems fairly firm handling wise, it will interesting to see how that shows on the track. I suspect the back springs are something different or maybe cut, but I'm not sure. My plans so far are to leave it as is for my first event in March and get to know it a bit. All I've done so far is taken out some extra unecessary crap. After that I have some extractors and an exhaust to put on. I've recently fitted a momo wheel. I've also recently picked up a twin carb manifold and some Dellorto's for it, but I'll take my time building them up properly. I also just got a front end kit which is basically all bushings, rack boots and all joints to rebuild the front end. The boots are stuffed and there is a bit of a clunk so that's pretty high on the list. I also have some KE30 LCA's that I'll put on while I'm at it for a little, but not too much -ve camber. My wife also gave me a wideband setup for my birthday so I look forward to hooking that up and mucking around with tuning. So I'll keep everyone posted. Things aren't going to happen quickly, but they will happen. Feel free to hassle me to keep me on track I've also posted a trial fitup shot of some SU's that I was planning to put on. The Dellortos came up for a great price though, so I couldn't resist. Oh, I've also got a full set of wheels like the front (ROH Fireballs I think) that I'm planning to fix up as well.

He has twin Dellorto's. How much they drink will depend on tuning. You can tune them to be thirsty, or economical. Or in between. Of course they will drink more, because you're going to love the sound of opening them up :)

I've been wondering that same thing myself. Maybe sump guards too? ;)

I have to backup Felix here, that very much looks like a D dish head. I have one also and there is a hell of a lot more space in the crown of the piston. Your current setup is probably up around 12 or 13:1 (wild guess) compression. Good luck getting that to run on just about any readily available fuel without blowing a bunch of gaskets.

3T's are getting old though, there's probably more chance it is stuffed than a 4AG and if you ever do have to rebuild it you're going to have a harder time finding parts.

Easy. look up a picture of points on Google images or similar. Take your distributor cap off, if similar is there, you have points! I can't remember what style of trigger the K motor electronics have, but you'll probably see some sort of coil and just a star shaped bit of metal on the shaft for electronic. I think electronic is a worthwhile upgrade. On a stinky old Datsun I had the motor stayed in tune longer, revved higher and more freely, and was generally more responsive all through the rev range. For the money, a good upgrade.

Wait until it rains. While you're doing that, save your arse off for the 4AGE :)

He could have a bitsa motor. If you have points then electronic is definitely better. Being a contact less system there is less in there that's going to limit the energy going to the spark plugs. Judging by how many electronic ignition motors run a wider plug gap (and I'm pretty sure it's the same for K motors) then yes, there is more voltage going to the plugs. Even the normal bosch coils that are suited to electronic ignition worked fine for me.

I haven't done much painting yet, so I'm sure someone more expert will chime in, but it really sounds like it hasn't been applied properly? I would have thought 3M would be fine, so you might not have more luck with a different brand. How thick was it going on, and what were the conditions when you painted (temp, humidity) and what mix of acrylic with thinner etc?

There's a car there? I'm salivating over the snow banked roads, now that would be fun! :)

I'd say for the most bolt on setup would be the redline kit and throttle wheels at either end. From there you're probably going to have to fabricate stuff.

Well he'll get the clearance required to swing the arm with the ball on the end. Thinking about this more (and not about work :) ) I wouldn't halve the manifold, as then you'll only have two bolts holding on a reasonable amount of weight a fair way from where it is attached, on a thing that gets hot and vibrates! Sounds like a good recipe for all sorts of problems. Another option might be to run the redline style arms but put the throttle plate arms at both ends of each carb and drive them from an upper shaft. Either way, I don't think you're going to be able to use the stock linkages.

5 speeds were an option in KE55's. Scour wreckers and you might be lucky. They are a bolt in. In KE70's the rear housing is different and the shifter is further back. As mentioned you'll have to cut a hole in the floor to fit that one. You're probably more likely to find one in a KE55 coupe, but I've found them in sedans before as well. Good luck!

In the past I have had to shorten shafts slightly on Webers to get them close enough together. I'm thinking this same problem through at the moment with some Dellorto's that are currently on their way to me in the post :). I remember recently seeing someone who modded their original Aisin throttle wheel and used that. There was also a tongue that they managed to bend in the right direction so that balancing could be achieved. From what you've posted though, you've got your work cut out! You'll have some additional space, because I'm assuming you're not going to bolt them up without any insulators. It's a little unorthodox, but maybe you could mod and bolt up a stock throttle wheel and have the cable going down between the runners and behind the joining bridge? It's going to be fiddly, but it's the only way I can think of it all fitting. I don't see how you're going to get the current arms on there to work though, without adding a lot of spacers. That's going to make the filter end very tricky in a '20. Edit: If you're going to halve the manifold then you could keep the push rod and ball setup? I'd be a little cautious about how much the carbs will stay in sync if you're twisting the whole lot from one end.

All the Webered cars that I've driven haven't needed a choke. Same again, a couple of pumps and then start.

Yes, I've fondled and photographed that same engine too. Is it wrong to get excited by such things? :)

Definately sounds like a rally car, can't wait to hear it at full noise! :)

Whilst I have a thing, it's not quite enough to get me from S.A. to Qld to wash down a car :)