snot35

Are you sure? I'd imagine a 2 door KE30 has a jap diff. Check whether you have lots of bolts on the front of the diff, or the back. It's a big difference. The AE71 is bound to be a Borg Warner (bolts on the back). I'd actually check what ratio you do have. From memory quite a few KE30's come with 4.3's. Then you'll know what you have to look for.

I think maybe the OP has missed the point.

I'd really be finding out why it went before messing with the formula. Otherwise you'll be doing it again sooner rather than later.

Yeah, I'm not sure about this thread either. It feels like a "let's see how much we can get away with" thread. The real approach to modifying a vehicle is pretty much if you change just about anything then you risk it's ADR compliance etc. If you're not sure, talk to your transport authority as philbey said and use a bit of common sense.

You've just done a head gasket and you want to increase the chance of it happening again? :) Why did it go? Nice work on hot spark GJM, that's a good find.

I can't comment on the S2 specifically, but from what I understand all T18 diffs have the same T centre as early (Zenki?) AE86's. Get one of those and it should pretty much be a bolt up.

Super cool. I'm also interested in what you did with the cam arrangement, lubrication etc?

No, it will lower the compression. I think there might be one for a dished piston 4K, but they're hard to find. You're probably better off with the 3K head ironically, but even then it will still be too low compression wise. Hang out for a 5K head if you can, or swap pistons, head and pushrods as mentioned above. At least you're able to swap it!

Hey buddy. Sorry to not be helpful, but it's not even a 5K head. It's my old 3K head that I sold to another dude on here. The damage on that cylinder is from that motor ingesting some metal and it bouncing around for a while. Either way, it isn't going to work on a 5K unless you're thinking about boosting it. It does have new exhaust guide liners in it. My plan was to get it decked a fair bit, but I've since gone in a completely different direction.

Why not do it just for the challenge? An engine swap would have been easier and probably give more power, but a lot of people do them. Looking forward to as much detail as you're willing to provide :)

I'll vote! :)

Wow. That is the coolest thing I've seen in a long time! Big kudos. Seeing that you've had to move bores around, what crank did you use?

You want to have a look through this if you haven't already. It sounds like you have the stage III TRD 3K pistons, which is kind of neat except that you're going to find it impossible to find parts. http://www.scribd.com/doc/32994691/TRD-K-Engine-Manual I couldn't find a rod part number in there, but my browser kept crashing. From the description it sounds like they did have a TRD rod made of a different material to suit these pistons. The main thing will be to work out what the rod length is. The 4K has a longer stroke, but also a taller deck to compensate. From memory all the rod lengths are the same. Theoretically if you have the right rods already in the 3K, they will go into the 4K without any trouble. I'm not sure how the 4K block will cope with that sort of over bore, but it might be OK? One ring and a short skirt is definitely a racing piston though. Lucky it's in a racing car! :) If you can make the 4K combination work then I'd do that. Keep the pistons and replace the block when the bores get too loose. You'll struggle to replace those pistons.

Yeah, they should be larger. If they are the real deal they should have 20mm pins and be 79mm bore according to the old Tosco manual. Sweet sprinter by the way :)

Holy crap! How the hell does that work? Also, if someone does have more info about the Waggott heads I'd be really curious :)

Theoretically the bottom end is a little behind when it comes to a high revving reliable design. It only has a partially counter balanced crank and the block is not of a deep skirt design which means that ideally you would want some extra support for the bearing caps. If you look at modern high revving reliable engines you'll find they have either a complete bearing cradle attached to the caps, or a cast sump that forms the bearing caps to completely secure the bottom end. Other than that the K motors have pretty reasonable rods and bolts which is a definite plus. People seem to get away with big revs out of them, but they aren't really designed for it and longevity may be an issue.

Cranks and bore spacing are the same. I haven't heard of 5K liners, so it may be a custom job? Given the 75mm bore vs 80.5mm of the 5K, that's probably too much overbore without doing a hell of a lot of work.

As long as someone else is doing the failures for you it's fine! ;) The LZ20B is Nissan factory twin cam, the OS Giken head is different. I'm interested in this bloke that cast his own head though, was it for an automotive IC engine? I dream of building replica LZ and 151E, 152E heads. But I'm just warped.

4A pistons seem to be good size wise to go into a 5K. The smaller bored 4K would need a fair bit of work to get them to fit. It would probably be cheaper to source a 5K

What's wrong with you people? :) If this guy works out a good easy way of 16v-ing a K block, we all benefit! :)

Sounds like a plan. The T motors are very robust. Look up some of the Puerto Rican drag cars running 3T's on youtube, they are insane! Supercharger will get around the need for a custom exhaust, but then you have to work out pulleys. In the long run it's probably much the same.

Give up with the 4TGTE, it's a homologation special to my understanding. It was built for group B rallying and IMSA racing in the states. The closest you'll get is by sourcing a 3TGTE and boring it to 88-89mm. The 4T also has a longer stroke crank, 84mm I think to bring it to 2.1 litres. I think that's in the evolution model though. Unless you need a T series motor, go for a A series or S series. Far easier to get parts for, more power and probably cheaper all said and done, even if you get mounts custom made.

Hell yeah!

I'm not saying it's not possible, I just wonder how well it would work with any old ebay special SU.

I reckon do it, but if you think it will handle you might be disappointed. Maybe also consider seam welding and strengthening as well as a full cage. Things will probably start popping apart otherwise.