snot35

Good luck to all you folks up there. Down here I can't comprehend that amount of water! Hope everyone stays safe and doesn't loose too much.

What can I say, I have a thing for well built tidy racing/rally cars :)

2011 Corolla of the year. That is all :)

If the block is good to go, I wouldn't muck with it. You can tackle lifter conversions and that sort of thing if and when you need to. Confirm that you have hydraulic lifters and then get a cam ground for that. If you do have hydro's you'll not have to worry about adjusting them all the time. Good exhaust and intake setup and you should have a pretty fun car. If you can sort some 1.5 inch SU's they are a very drivable setup, or the 32/36 should be OK on a 5K as well. Just put aside some funds for getting them jetted properly after you've finalised the cam and exhaust. If you change the head then you're going to have a lot of work getting the rocker gear all setup again, probably for no real gain. The small chamber 5K head (likely what you have) actually has quite a well designed port compared to earlier heads. Out of the box the ports are larger and have a better shape than earlier heads. The 242A grind looks to be a good choice if you can get it ground for hydro.

If you do a search for that number they seem to come up in stock lists around the place. I don't currently need one, so I haven't tried to actually aquire one, so I'm not sure how difficult that is. Good luck!

Part CS9000 if I recall.

Link? :)

Those manifolds look the goods, where did you find them? Or are they a little like rocking horse doo?

Maybe put a post in the TExx Corolla Discussion forum, as that's where all the T motor nuts will be. Also, if you could be a little more specific about the problem then someone mechanically minded will likely chime in. Are you having trouble putting the assembly back on the head, putting the components back on the rocker shaft, etc?

Do a bit of a search. I've seen a Bilstein part number on here before, for fitment to a KE30. As alluded to above, they are the same as earlier KE's. Depending on what you're trying to achieve though, it may be a better idea to do a strut swap. The struts on early KE's are pretty narrow.

Not entirely true. It depends on the 5k. If you have one with the deep dish pistons then you'll actually decompress it and it should be good for turbo charging. If you have the shallow dish then you'll probably end up with a pretty high ratio, but I don't think it will be ridiculous. The best way to find out is to measure it if you can.

That's awesome dude, nice work! :)

Part number is 13781-13100 according to the thread: Pushrod lengths

Actually I vaguely remember seeing someone make gaskets by using the part as a template, covering it with the gasket material and then tapping away at it with the ball of a ball peen hammer. Anyone ever tried that? I think a scanned database of gaskets is an awesome idea though. I've got an aftermarket 3K VRS set laying around, so I could do some, but they probably won't be the hard to find gaskets.

I've got a 5K in bits at the moment. I might be prepared to lend rocker bits so that you can work out the problem if you like? It's a D dish motor and I'm pretty sure mine are the shortest push rods (150mm?). PM and we can talk it through :)

I'd say the main problems that you're going to have is that this is a long stroke, narrow bore motor. If you want it to rev, you need it to breathe. To do that you need big valves, or really long duration cams, which is going to make it quite a cranky street motor. Given it's the same bore as a 5K I'd be guessing there isn't the room for big enough valves in there to make it a really revvy motor. Properly tuned ITB's will help the torque aspect of the motor, which is something I'd emphasize more than revving.

I'm with Hiro, couldn't have put it better. The Masa and Bugatti get away with it (it looks more satin than flat?), the others look rubbish.

It would cheaper to buy another Pulsar from the same era and put it in that. Or sell it and stick something already RWD and probably more powerful in the KE70. You could do it, but why?

Welcome to the forum. To start I'd suggest spending a bit of time touring the forum and seeing what other people have done so you can get an idea of what works and what doesn't. K motors are quite simple motors and lend themselves to DIY modification, which is what you'll find most people on this forum are interested in. I'm not sure that you'd find too many K motor specialists around the place, as they are quite small motors, and not particular powerful compared to modern engines. The only person/business that I can think of off the top of my head would be kemotorsport, who is in Adelaide and seems to have quite a bit of experience with K motor modification. Otherwise I'd suggest evaluating what you want to achieve with the motor. At the end of the day if you want a decent amount of power, you're probably going to find it's cheaper and less trouble to swap to something different.

That's awesome, you guys must be buzzing. Nice work :)

Do the ignition through the ECU if you can, whether that means modifying the current dizzy, or leaving it in place and making a wheel. An ECU when it's tuned properly is always going to control advance more effectively than mech and vac advance.

Yeah you can mod the megasquirt to pickup all sorts of triggers. I guess you can't completely ditch the distributor anyway...

For the diff you might be able to source a T18 setup and a proper LSD rather than the phantom grip setup. It depends on your budget of course, but a decent proper LSD will probably be more reliable and will give you more tuning options (1.5 way, 2 way, more preload, less preload etc) Otherwise, I look forward to seeing the build! I'm thinking of something similar with a 5k at the moment.

This ones for felix, do you know what the CR and CC volume of your 5k is? Cheers

Megasquirt will definitely do what you want. Either Megasquirt'n'Spark Extra or Megasquirt II. Look up the user manuals for both, they will tell you all you need to know.