snot35

You could, but you'd probably have to have it made. I'm not sure if they were ever made. Maybe TRD did at some stage, but from memory they are not in their catalog, so you're highly unlikely to ever find one. Just get the side drafts going, it should sound quite mean...

What is your reason for not running a thermostat?

Yes, there aren't many down draft manifolds for the K motor. I think I may have seen one for sale on a finish website. Your best bet is DCOE Webers, or DHLA Dellorto's. The appropriate manifold is still available and they are just as good if not better than IDF's.

How does it sound like it's not getting fuel? Did you also do your timing before changing over? When you say you disconnected stuff, are you getting fuel out after the regulator? What condition are the carbs in?

Well it's a good collection of photos of these crazy old donks if nothing else. Thanks for the share :)

Well it had its maiden voyage in terrible conditions today. I had a blast, but was way down the back as far as times go. I need to sort the handling, the back always wants to overtake the front. I think I'm probably not driving it aggressively enough with the locked diff in it. I'm working through some movies that I took, I'll post them later.

Just to bring up the rule thing, recent developments seem to be supporting Club Rally Cars, in which you can run a KE55 with a 4AGE in it. I don't think that all events support them here in S.A. so you'll have to talk to a club, but when I inquired the support seemed reasonably positive. Indeed you can run in Rally SA with a Club Rally Car. If you're genuinely going to rally though, the first point where I would be spending money is on safety gear. You want a good cage and seats/harnesses in that thing first. Then decent suspension, then power after all those. www.camsmanual.com.au is your friend. It's also worth noting that Walkerville is running some of their events under AASA these days. I'm not sure of the implications there for vehicle eligibility, but I think their rules are similar to CAMS.

Assuming you've worked out all the above stuff, you want the 5K gasket. Otherwise you'll be blowing the gasket all the time as the firing rings will be far too close to the action.

What sort of weight saving are you expecting out of curiosity? I'd like to do the same for the 70 one day..

Please don't feed the animals :)

As long as it's in good nick? I tried to rego mine recently and it needs an ID check 'cause it has no number plates.

Please don't chop a nice old KE10 enough to get a GT4 drive train in it. Do it to an ecconobox that no one cares about.

I'm happy with my CIG 135. Gas rental is around $35 a quarter. Most parts (tips, wire) are available at Bunnings on the shelf so you don't get stuck mid project on the weekend. If they don't have it they can order it as well. It's also on a 10amp plug so you don't need different sockets. It also does .6 as well as .8 wires, so is good for thicker stuff as well as doing car panels quite easily. It should also do stainless but I've never tried, so cannot comment. I think for general use that is a good option. I got it second hand years ago for around $500. If you look around you might be able to get it cheaper. I've never tried the gasless function either, but if you've got an arc already why would you? :)

Seat all done, cheapo harness in (hopefully the mounting is OK with scruits) and the fire extinguisher is in too. Fixed an exhaust leak and then worked out how dodgily the exhaust is actually mounted, bugger! I wondered what all the noise was when I started the car, it's the exhaust bashing on the floor. I'd always planned to replace the lot when the extractors go on, but that will have to wait a few months. All that is left now is a flush of the brake system, safety check and rego. Mid July just isn't coming quickly enough!!

Hey buddy, Thanks for the advice. I'm pretty sure they were actually KE70 rails anyway. The seat is all mounted now and very very strong :) It ended up being made out of plate 50x5mm with the feet removed from the original seat mounts and welded on the bottom. It's very strong. It was a bit of stuffing around to get the right position and probably heavier than necessary, but if things go wrong I should be OK. I should put in an update. Seat is mounted. I bought a fairly cheap Monza 3 point ADR harness which is in. Feels pretty good. Something bigger would have been better, but I'm on a budget at the moment. So far we're looking pretty good for my first event mid July. I have an extinguisher to mount then I'll do a brake bleed and give all the suspension components the once over to make sure she's safe. :)

You'd probably want to qualify that with, gearbox attached, turbo, manifolds, clutch/flywheel? Ancillaries all add a decent amount of weight, especially if you're talking about a turbo motor.

Welcome! As mentioned, use search first and make a bit of an effort with spelling and punctuation (and I don't mean perfection, just not illegible text speak), people will be happy to help. You're off to a good start, so enjoy!

Putting a turbo or supercharger on an engine not already fitted with one is probably going to be the same amount of work irregardless. You're best bet is to look at some of the build threads for people who have 'charged' their K motors. The building of brackets, plumbing, setup of carb/efi etc is all going to be pretty similar to what you would need to do with a 3T. Either way, it's a reasonable size job if you're reasonably mechanically inclined. If you're not then do a lot of research first and maybe think about finding someone that can help.

Wreckers? Classifieds here? Surely there aren't that hard to find and far cheaper than getting it welded, heat treated and then ground.

If you have access to a 5K for a decent price then that's really the path you should take. Displacement is always the best way for more power, the rest are bolt on bits...

Just build a Club Rally car with a 4age and be done with it :)

Welcome! We look forward to seeing the project progress :)

I'd also check out condition. Do both have flat mounting faces? Do ports match up, is there weld and crap sticking into the tubing? What size is the tubing?

Keep in mind that cams are designed for their associated lifter. If you have a 5K with hydraulic lifters then ideally you want a cam that is designed for hydraulic lifters. Most aftermarket cams are ground for 3K's or 4K's so are ground for solids.

Hah, you even kept the lean! That's so much awesome. :)