snot35

How much weight are you saving with the bonnet? Are TRD shocks hard to strip down?

www.camsmanual.com.au And join a club, tell them what you want to do and they'll help you with what you need :)

Ripped out the steering rack on the weekend and started dis-assembly. I think it's had a good few years of running dirt events with split boots, there were some ugly noises coming out of that thing when the shaft was moved in and out. I'll give it a decent clean and see if it's usable or too damaged. Fingers crossed it's OK and I can just put the new rod ends on it, grease it up and go. New boots will also go on along with Superpro rack mounts. These claim to lock in the rack really firmly, but the rubber bushes that came out seemed quite hard as well so I'm wondering if the difference will be noticeable at all. I can see I'm going to have some fun trying to properly set the bearing shaft slipper pre load, I may have to fabricate some tools :) First event 11th of March, bring it on!

And if that isn't enough there is also: http://www.mountalmamile.com/ http://www.ahtr.com.au/ If you want to see a little more scenery. How many events you run is probably going to depend more on your budget than anything else! I run off road stuff and there is certainly more I could run in than what I can afford to do this year. I'm planning to get out to 6 events this year, but then my budget is curtailed by a mortgage and new family.

Yeah, you'll have to spend a bit jetting those. Chokes are too big as are the jets and emulsion tubes. It might be worth getting a quote for tuning them before completely giving up though. It's still going to be less complex and probably cheaper putting them on than a 4AGE conversion

The MS3 is pretty new. It has a whole load of features on it and appears to be very powerful, but if you can't get it tuned that's useless to you. As someone said further up, get something your tuner is happy with, I'd be willing to bet a lot of places haven't heard of or don't want to touch an MS3 as they wouldn't have a lot in the way of manufacturer support. Only get it if you like to tinker, have a car that can be off the road, probably for quite a long time, and you have the spare time to tune it properly.

This sounds a bit weird to me, does it still do it if the dipstick is pulled out, this would check whether it is actually positive pressurization? You might even be able to feel pressure from the dipstick tube. I'm with Philbey, you could well be ruining your sump gaskets, it doesn't take much.

Turn the crank until you get top dead centre on number 1 piston. Check that you're in the right spot, both valves should be completely closed on number 1 cylinder and you should be able to clearance those rockers, i.e. put a feeler gauge in between the rocker and the valve. This means your rotor should be somewhere near number 1 post in the dizzy. Mark that lead as number one and plug it in. Firing order should be 1-3-4-2 so you should be able to work out the rest of the leads from that and by turning the crank and watching which way the rotor goes. Alternatively, look up a picture of a k motor on google images and trace their lead path :)

OK people, let's not get hung up on definitions of readily available. I'm talking prolific availability of engines on the second hand market, along with parts and being able to get down to your local wrecker and not having much trouble sourcing parts. Never did I say it was impossible to do things if you're willing to wait! Eesh!

Hi Nathan, welcome. This machine sounds like a beast. Unfortunately the pictures aren't loading. I'd also suggest you start a thread in the "Rollaclub Rides" section as that's the right spot to show it off. Mike

I definitely wasn't saying you can't get parts or that they aren't good performers, but shipping stuff from the states isn't readily available :)

Welcome! If you ask me, you should still consider the 4AGE and put carbs on it if that's your thing. T motors are getting quite hard to find, whereas there are still a lot of 4AGE parts out there and there probably will be into the near future. They're even getting to the stage of being reasonably cheap. Plus, one of those on a decent set of side drafts just sounds awesome. :) As a fellow '70 owner, I look forward to seeing your progress!

Added to the kitty today. I got a really good price on an A kit for the car. Now I have engine cross members, '71 gearbox, tail shaft, pedal box, clutch master slave and lines. I was intending to run the K motor for at least another year. The hardest bit will be holding out on converting it to 4AGE power :)

Shhh, I was watching those! :P

If they're from a Datsun they're Hitachi's. You can fit English SU needles though, so it's not a big deal.

I'm not sure I'd say the side drafts are overkill, we're talking single choke per cylinder and they can be changed. I think the deciding factor will probably be the condition of the carbs. Do the pistons move freely, do they have any dings or anything like in the bore or on the piston? This will really make things difficult.

I reckon spring for a twin weber/dellorto manifold if you can. If you're going to take advantage of big valves and port work then you might as well let the thing breathe. The SU's would be a reasonable choice as well though and should make the car very drive able. I'd forget about anything that keeps the standard manifold as you're not going to be able to take full advantage of the head mods you have. I've owned all three manifolds and by far the best air flow path is provided by the twin manifold. The SU manifold is quite short and kinks a reasonable amount, as does the single manifold. My picks; twins if you can, SU's, single side draft.

I'd have a dig around here and also ae86drivingclub. Making both of these cars which are very similar is a pretty well established formula. Probably the best bang for buck would be a reasonable set of second hand coil overs based on ae86 struts. Lower springs on the back will help, I wouldn't go for too high a rate, Adelaide roads suck. Sway bars, decent tyres and do it properly, i.e. use RCA's if you've lowered it to maintain the geometry and then hook it all to the road with some decent tyres. You might also want to consider traction brackets as well. If you're smart about it you should have change....

Score! Best I've ever done was a KE30 for a carton of beer. Welcome :)

It's going to depend on a few things. Is it track only, or track and daily drive? This will affect what's practical for spring rates and damping. A sway bar upgrade is always good, good shocks are always a good idea as well as strut braces. I don't think you want to go too hard on suspension like some people tend to, because ultimately the body is designed for softer rates and probably won't be able to take full advantage of a really stiff setup.

Nice work gents, good to see she'll be out there sooner rather than later :)

It's quite close to the specs they list for the 104, just 268 instead of 270 duration and I'm guessing the 212 is @ 50 thou, which is near to the 215 they list. You probably wouldn't notice the difference in the car, but having said that, if they list a spec on their website and that's what you've asked for and they do it "near enough" I'd wonder about their workmanship....?

Wow, I like! So you've got around 360hp at the wheels with this one?? It would haul!

Nah, give me some credit, no fluro vest here! :) Another car?

Actually, GJM makes a good point too, 5K push rods are ball both ends, your adjustable lifters will be expecting a cup. It just isn't going to work with Toyota stuff?