snot35

hahahaha I'm glad the priorities are in order. Otherwise, good luck!

Rack is done and back in the car. Basic wheel alignment still needs doing. Dash is still everywhere and there is no coolant in the car. The heater core is still busted so I'm going to have to loop the line and run no heater for the moment. Less weight I guess, but I want it back for winter! First event is this coming Sunday so it's going to be a busy week!

Rack is done and back in the car. Basic wheel alignment still needs doing. Dash is still everywhere and there is no coolant in the car. The heater core is still busted so I'm going to have to loop the line and run no heater for the moment. Less weight I guess, but I want it back for winter! First event is this coming Sunday so it's going to be a busy week!

You'll be wanting a T40 or T50 with a bell housing to suit a T motor. So a box from a TA22 or TE72 would do you.

I think you could do it in a club rally car though?

Nice post coln!! It's probably got a 3SG in it, they're permitted in the classic class. They used to have to run carbs but I believe that changed recently? I hope it comes to rally sa, that's all I can say :)

I've decided to use the rack, so that is half back together. I also ripped out the heater box to look into the leak. What a mission that was! The amount of red that came out in the coolant was a little disturbing too. It was starting to overheat on the way home after the last event, so I'm not really surprised. I'm hoping with a system flush I'll make it through this year. It might be a challenge though. Still, it was nice to rip out a few unnecessary bits and pieces while the dash is half out. I found the previous owners CAMS licence jammed in there too! I'm going to see how much a new core is, hopefully not too much. I'm tempted to just loop all the heater hosing back and forget about, but at those cold events the heater might be nice/be necessary for defrosting. To top it off I locked my keys in the car. Great! :)

It looks like a flapper style air flow meter to me. You don't want to mess with that! I'd actually suggest looking around autospeed.com.au. They have some good articles on modifying standard intakes. They use a home made manometer to measure pressure drops and then modify the intake system to flow more freely. That would be a good place to start. You could potential put some sort of pod filter on the end of the AFM, but you have to consider you're also going to be sucking warm air in from the engine bay. How much were you thinking of fabricating?

32's probably aren't that bad for it given you're running a single Weber. I'm not sure I'd bother changing, just make sure the jetting is spot on.

As much as I don't want to speak ill of those that have passed, he did attach crystals to his cars....

And how do you know that it's lean? Do altezza's check. If that works then it could be the mixture is wrong. Get it on the dyno if you can, otherwise you might want to check how big the accelerator pump bleed is and compare it to other similar engines.

Here or in the AE section would be appropriate. Do some googling and searching in the forum first though, this topic has been done before. Also look on club4ag and ae86drivingclub.

Commonly people adapt a K series dizzy to run the ignition. It does need to have the tooth wheel swapped over. Go electronic if you can. Search for 4age carb dizzy or similar, I'm sure you can find plenty of details about it.

Quite possibly! Although I'm trying to decide how much I actually need it. The bushing isn't completely had it. There is a little bit of play which might come through as a very mild knock or might not. I doubt it would even be notice-able to be quite honest. I think the original was teflon coated as well, which makes it a little harder. Or I might see if I can find someone wrecking a '70 or '71 with a rack in better condition. That probably wouldn't be hard to find :)

$60 for the bushing in the end of a '84 steering rack. Not many around either apparently. I might pass :)

Oh I don't doubt it's possible, it just seems a lot of mucking around for something that isn't going to be too over the top?

Stroke is the same, bore is larger. That's why people put 4AG pistons in. 4K is 75mm, 5K 80.5mm and 81 for 4AG. Boring as far as 80.5mm might be difficult in a 4K block. I don't know if you need forged pistons for what you want to do. People seem to have success with ACL pistons.

Rack has been wire wheeled. I think it's use-able. There was a bit of rust on the rack shaft itself but I think it will be OK. I'm debating changing the passenger side bushing on the rack. There was a bunch of brown crap in that side of the rack which I think was mixed dirt, grease and probably water. There's a bit of slack in the bushing. I'm not sure how much is supposed to be there, so if it isn't too costly I'll replace it. Otherwise, the bearings seem OK. New grease, lick of paint, new bushes and rack ends and we'll be good to go again! :) I also had a chance to play around with the wideband and I have a new netbook that I'm messing around with. It was really easy to setup and worked first shot. Free air seemed to be around 400 lambda, breathing on it could get it down to around 16. The lambda on the picture is me breathing on it then quickly moving to do a screen shot on the netbook :D I'm not sure I'll get it mounted really soon. I'll finish the rack and fix the coolant leak first. Fun times!

Yes, it's all here: http://www.esapeltonen.fi/ Serious K motor stuff. I believe they posted here recently in the parts section but I can't seem to find the post. Most of that page is in Finish, but there is an English page. How far do you want to go? :)

Is that correct? My '30 had a 4.3 in it. The auto's might have been 4.1 but I couldn't be sure on that one. I think 3.9's and 3.7's are going to be hard to come by in the jap size.

Interesting, I want to do something like that to mine some day.....

So I've begun stripping down my steering rack for rebuild. When I got the car the boots were torn and it had ingested a whole lot of crap. Has anyone done a rebuild on these racks before? The passenger side bushing has a reasonable amount of play. Anyone know how much is acceptable? I don't know whether it's badly worn or if that's how it's supposed to be. Cheers Mike

I wondered how rebuildable they were. Twin tube also, interesting!

If you're referring to the plate that sits against the back of the block and is kind of U shaped, then I'd say you're looking for it from an A powered car with a T50 box. Your best bet will be from an AE71 with the 4AC and T50 combination. And if I'm not completely off the mark, it stops sh!t from getting into your clutch/bell housing.

The LCA bolts have nuts on the other end, so if that isn't there, that would be why! They are funny looking nuts with long prongs welded to the end of them so the prong stops the nut from rotating when you're tightening it.