snot35

Yep, XT130, TE72 or AE86 and probably others. I've got some AE86 P/S arms on mine.

Same width. AE86's came with 13" wheels so clearance won't be a problem. I'm pretty sure the handbrake mechanism is in the caliper, but check that. Rear disks are not vented and you might want to fiddle with the master cylinder. Swapping over to a JDM AE86 would be best, but I don't know how easy that is. Drum brakes generally require residual pressure in the brake lines to operate properly. You don't necessarily need this with a disk brake setup. Having said that it will still work, but can cause the pads to drag. You'd want to check that stuff out.

TE72 struts in a KE70 here. No problems other than that 4 wheel drive ride height :) No noticeable clearance troubles but I can measure a little more on the weekend if you'd like.

He's talking about moving it out of the build section and into the Ride i.e. complete car section. Not that a car like that is every truly complete! :) So, I've been dreaming about fiberglass bonnets today (I'm weird) any chance of a production run? ;)

Another vote for qwafe :) I reckon stick with AE86 or KE70 racks. They're still easy to find and most parts are available. If you haggle a bit I'm sure you could pick up a spare or two for a reasonable price and/or build something good out of the two.

I just rebuilt mine. A new end bushing would have been ideal but they're about $60 and I decided it wasn't worth it. I think AE86 racks are very similar so I'm not sure how much you'd gain with that. You can use KE30 etc turn buckles for more length. If it's really stuffed maybe try and find a good condition AE86 rack from an importers, otherwise you can adjust the rack if it doesn't feel so great. If the boots have been knackered for a while it might be worth cramming some fresh grease in it after a clean. AE86/KE70 racks also give you the option of fitting a quaife quick rack... :)

My '84 is equilateral. I also tried strut tops from a series 3 T18. They are also equilateral, but in a different way that does not fit a late KE70.

Like the mags, I've got two sets at the moment slowly working their way to getting mounted on the khana car. They just need a tidy and some paint! What rear springs did you have before? I grabbed some stockies on the weekend as I want to soften the rear as well, but I'm not sure if it's actually going to work, they're a heavier gauge coil then I expected.

Why don't you click on the link that says ask a question about this product? :) There would be two parts to consider. First, the plates look to have the later bolt spacing. I believe there is an early bolt spacing where all the bolts are an equal distance apart. Then there is the late spacing where one bolt is further from the bushing/bearing center. This is common to the AE86 also. If you don't mind drilling/elongating holes where the hats bolt in you'll be fine. The spring hat looks a little small for AE86 springs, but ask them to be sure.

Just had a look around Gillman UPI. Not a whole lot there, a KE55 sedan, KE30, 3 KE70's. At least one was auto and one had an aircon setup and roof racks. One of them also had a very straight looking flat front setup. Also saw a XT130 but the hubs and LCA's were gone already.

Did you do a before and after? i.e. pre and post locking?

I concur :)

What are you trying to achieve? A dizzy has two advance mechanisms, one the mechanical advance philbey mentions, the other vacuum advance which won't work properly if you are running boost. You can just disconnect the vac line from the canister to disable vacuum advance. Do you want to remove all advance?

Hold onto it for another ten years. At the moment KE70's are mostly the domain of young wanna be drifters and are worth very little. Once the majority of them are crashed or scrapped and the young guys have grown up the market will change. Some of that generation will be cashed up and get nostalgic for that "drift/race car they never built" and will want a tidy base. It happened with rotaries :P Having said that, there are far better ways to make money, if that's what you're holding onto it for.

I really want to do this mod, but the khana car rarely sees the dark. Excellent mod altezza, I like the use of the DSLR too :)

Someone will pay it. It looks like a Halda in there, which would make up a reasonable chunk of the price by itself.

That depends on a hell of a lot. What do you want to achieve? If you go AE86 there are quite a few brake upgrade kits around the place and you can put on fancy 4 spot calipers and get light hubs etc. If you go XT130 then you're limited to the RA60 upgrade (I think) or Hilux unless you make custom brackets etc. These are either two pot (I'd have to check), or 4 pot and quite heavy. It also depends how much you want to spend!

Results in are in, 19th outright out of 38 and 3rd in class. I'm happy with that. I was beaten by two drivers that were in a fairly nasty sounding mini. If I had a day without penalties I would have placed 10th outright! So we've got something to work on next time. The other interesting thing was the cars old owner was there in a VN Commodore. He was beaten :) He was on street tyres though, which would not have helped getting the V6's power to the ground, but still, that was nice! Next event is on the 29th of April, but my wife and son are leaving to see family the same day so there is no hope of me making it. Still, that gives me an extended amount of time to get things done on the car. I'm intending to finally sort the exhaust and strip out some weight if possible. A few more experienced competitors have suggested I should get more castor into the front and soften the back even more as well. So much to do!

Ummm, I could be wrong here, but if you want to do the Hilux/Pug thing then I think AE86 struts would be the wrong ones to get. They're generally expensive and the hubs are most likely wrong for what you want to do. The hubs will likely put the rotor in the wrong spot for the disc that is used with that conversion. Also it's designed on a particular caliper bolt spacing that AE86 struts do not have. Look up the threads on toymods about it, that will tell you everything. I believe top hats will bolt into late KE70's that have the oval holes in the strut tower, but the early ones you will need to fix by drilling or swapping hats. Swap hats if you can, it won't look as bad if you get pulled over. You will need longer steering arms if you going to use sigmas. KE30's should be OK.

Well we survived khana #1 mostly unscathed. I had a terrible habit of hitting bollards with my rear view mirror which incurs a time penalty every time. And now I have a cracked mirror. The car performed well, my favourite conversation of the day was: "So what's in that, a 2 litre?" "Nah" "1600?" "Nah, 1300" "What, really? That goes alright!" There were a couple of other rolla's out. One AGE small port and a near stock slanty. It was a fun day and we got home in one piece. I think I've improved the cooling situation so we might be OK for the year. On the way home I also picked up a guard for my flat front conversion and the guy chucked in a heater core that looks to be in really good nick, so that's that problem solved. Now I have to wait until June for my next event! :/ I took some in car video, if they don't look too lame I'll put them up.

I've got a ring compressor somewhere, PM me. A rebuild is pretty straight forward if you're patient and methodical. I might be able to help with other tools too as I've done builds before. I would lend my torque wrench but to be honest, I'm not sure of it's accuracy these days. As altezza said, tell me machine shop what you want to do. If you're going to a good one they'll advise what's toast and what's good and get everything finished suitably for assembly. Edit: I have a hone too. Also, the differences in pushrods are from different head heights. Shallow dish 5K's have a taller conventional head (like 3K 4K etc), D or deep dish have shorter heads. I think the difference was 6mm or something?

We're ready for the weekend, we just need the UVP. Sometimes things are just a nightmare to get together. Flat battery. Charged, refitted and tried to bolt it in, snapped one of the battery retaining clamp bolts. Stone guard, two snapped bolts, argh!!! All fixed now though. Engine has been flushed as much as possible. God there was lots of rusty crud that came out of it. Fingers crossed I can get a season out of it. Rack feels OK, but stiffens up in a few parts of the steering range. It will do for now. I also managed to cross thread one of the steering tubes which is very annoying. It's jammed in there so it will be fine, it just isn't ideal. Heater core stayed out, so we're running a bit less weight than before. Bring on the weekend! :)

And naturally, make sure everything moves smoothly. The pistons should be able to be lifted and drop smoothly and completely. Also make sure your ignition system is spot on.

I'm with him! Why go to the trouble of twin charging? The whole point is the supercharger to take care of the response at lower revs and then the big turbo for the outright power.

Nice! Looking forward to details....