snot35

Now you're talking. We definitely need 1500hp for qualifying :D Actually, that reminds me of a doco I saw about Cosworth building their F1 engine. They were trying to run up a Ford 4 banger of some sort with a big turbo on it on the dyno to check if it would be viable as an F1 engine. It was probably the same block series as their BD motors. Anyway, the thing made it to 11,000 on some unspecified amount of boost before it went pop. So these things are possible if you have the money skills and know how.

I'll be interested to hear how the rally recaps go. Have you ever run proper tyres to compare against?

hahaha, sweet!

Maybe in a parallel universe where you can get 55kw more from a carb change and exhaust, plus you don't even need to rev it more! I sense the laws of physics bending somewhere.

I don't think you should bother with E15 turbos to be honest. Also, you've pretty much cut out all the cheap readily available turbo motors. The only thing I can think of that you might be able to source that might be on the cheap side of things would be the 4EFTE's from import Starlets. Other than that, you do have the 4G63's from Evo's etc, but it isn't likely to be particularly cheap. There's also the B6 and BP Mazda motors, these may be cheaper to source. Found in Familia's (323's) and also Ford TX3's.

Yep

Weren't these carbs on a 1.6 as well? Somewhere between the two would get it moving.

You've claimed a few 4wd turbo scalps there, nice! :)

Yeah, I have some friends with a Tivo. I think the turbo setup is a little odd, so they had a bit of trouble with it. Good otherwise though. It is a shame there's no AWD, and that we didn't get the two door like the Corolla WRC :D

I'm sure someone can get you a baseline that will get it rolling. I've got a boring 4K with just a shaved head that I could give you the jetting from if you're stuck. It would be a reasonable way off though.

Yeah, your's is a TE27 with the 151E. Where did you dig up your pic BLZ? Is it a '37 or one of those '50 series?

Got one of these too. I think I want to find it dull (it's a white corolla for god's sake) but it's actually brutally efficient at doing everything. You can cram heaps of crap into it no worries, the 7AFE has a fair bit of go. Not peaky, just flat torque the whole way up. I spoke to many mechanics before buying it and one had one as a personal car. He'd easily cracked 200K with scheduled services and all he'd done was a front pad change. I live in the hills and it almost loves the twisties too, just a shame the wife doesn't :D

Get it on a dyno, there's so many variables that affect jetting. It would be a shame to have all that work done and not fully unleash it's potential.

I will eventually, I just need a decent shot of the khana car going sideways. We'll get there. Otherwise, what's wrong with having two twin cam TTE rally cars in one post? I think it's great! :)

I've been thinking roll centers lately. Where about's did you put yours?

Slight neg camber is good, but not a whole lot. It really depends on how your tyres are designed to work and what your suspension does as it passes through it's travel. The wheel straightening is more from castor.

Wow, interesting. I have to say I didn't really expect that, but it kinda makes sense? Actually, you've confused me. Referring to the fixed piston scenario, are you saying it stays 14.7 all through acceleration? It would surprise me that you'd have to re-jet even with an SU for altitude. You have to do it with Webers, even though SU's deal with things differently, we're still relying on vacuum to make a fuel signal, so the very basic principles are still the same. I know what you mean about hills. I don't even have a flat spot to do oil changes and car setup, it's frustrating to say the least!

Still looks like a laugh :)

Interesting. When you accelerate is it richer throughout the whole acceleration? Also, I was under the impression that these carbs more or less work purely on velocity. We're basically using a rough edged venturi. If you look the Venturi effect and the application of Bernoulli's equations, there is no reference to density at all, simply volume flow rates to give pressure differences. This would indicate to me that density isn't relevant. Are your float bowls also seeing this positive pressure from the airbox, or are they venting to atmosphere (which is a little naughty, but we all do it :D )?

To removing the front and keeping the rear. I reckon you would notice the difference, the body still rolls. Generally gravel cars aren't particularly stiffly sprung.

Are you sure altezza? That's completely contrary to anything I've ever heard/seen done?

I had hard lowered springs in the back of mine to start. I think they were chopped falcon or something like that. Far too hard. Tried it on a wet slidey course and it sucked big time. Spent most of the day just trying to keep it straight. Switched to sprinter springs and the different was night and day. Much more fun, faster and more drive-able. I find the locker in mine is very easy to drive and don't notice a whole lot of understeer. These are fairly light cars without a hell of a lot of power, which probably helps. For what you want, I think it's the ticket.

Yeah, lock the diff. Ditch the rear bar if you haven't already, and wind in the castor.

Oh, we just had some Bilstein coil overs lying around. Hate you :P :)

Giddy up! :)