snot35

Yeah I was going to suggest that, but I'm guessing from his post he wants to try everything before having to rip it out of the car. But to do it properly, this would be the go.

I reckon I had this problem once before and the master was shot, fluid was bypassing the piston. Go with altezza's suggestions...

It's definitely fun on dirt! At home I can barely get the thing out of the driveway as there is a few tight turns in it. The more unnerving part of a locker is driving broad sweeping corners, when there's that mild back end surge of the diff winding and releasing, winding and releasing.

If the car is overrated, don't lock it. Will it survive? Yes, I have one in my khana car and it takes plenty of abuse. I haven't found it too difficult to drive myself, but I only drive the car to and from events generally because I do expect that one day the diff might catch me out so I want to minimize that chance. Remember, they're noisier, the increase loads on just about everything and you'll probably do bearings, I've got one on the way out already. I don't mind, because as I said I rarely drive the car and the car is designed to cop a bit of abuse. My car is not overrated, and it is not overrated for a reason. If you want to preserve the car and not shake it to bits, flog out bushes and do wheel bearings, let alone having to worry about cops, pass on the locker.

Bolt pattern is the same, so they'll bolt up. The 4K and 5K blocks are roughly 10mm taller so the outlet may foul on steering gear for the floor of the passenger foot well when you change to the taller block. You may need to do some "adjusting". Carby wise, probably anything that you can tune. Are you going for suck through, or blow through? This may have some bearing on your choice. Cam wise, a lot of cam places talk about "turbo grinds". I believe they change the overlap so hold combustion pressure or vice versa. It might be good to talk to a cam place about that. I think you could probably chuck just about anything better than stock in there and reap rewards, but like an N/A motor the wilder you go the less drive able it will be. I'd wait till the 5K and SC is all set up before messing with the cam. You're going to have plenty of fun sorting brackets, pulleys etc. :)

I can't believe I've only just found this project, love your work!

I just noticed in the news that Carroll Shelby has died, ending a bit of an era. And if you don't know who he is, look him up! :)

If you're going to turbo it, get a 4AGZE. It already has the lower compression and I'm pretty sure they all have ceramic coated pistons. I doubt it will matter what version, small port or big. Just get it as complete as you can. If you want to make it even easier, consider sticking with the super charger instead of turbo....

Yeah I might have to go electric, I'm thinking of boost.... :D It was just more of a curiosity thing!

Ah, thank you!

Um, what?

Very nice coupes, keep it up! :)

What's the availability of the MZ like and weight difference?

Looking forward to pics, I've been dreaming of V6 conversions after seeing how prevalent the 3VZ-FE is in wrecking yards... Shame they're reputedly crap! I look forward to seeing the conversion details...

Well it seems to be like you've got every chance of getting done if they feel like it, they're certainly well within their rights! If I were you, I'd be keeping my car well presented and making sure I never got caught doing anything stupid. If you do get pulled over, be very compliant, polite and don't give them reason to think you're an idiot. Then they probably won't care. If you're doing something stupid or pissing them off then you're only increasing the chance of them ripping you to shreds. If you want to never have to worry about it, apply for the exemption, if it's your only car and given how low power it is it shouldn't be too hard to get. Good luck whichever way you head.

It depends on what you want to do. If you want reasonable comfort and safety then I'd keep it stock and make sure that your shocks are in good condition. You won't get grip if your wheel is flapping around uncontrolled due to bumps. I don't see much calling for fancy tyres and messing with spring rates, other than low profiles are probably out. My experience with chopped stiff springs on dirt is something I'm not keep to relive, they're awful. If you want to go quickly then that's a different kettle of fish :) FYI rally tyres are pretty tall, commonly around 175-205 widths with 60-65 profile. I'm a bit rusty on my FWD spring rates, so I might have to get back to you on that one.

More work, grabbed some dry ice to try my hand at tar stripping. It actually works really well. I haven't quite finished yet, still have to do the firewall and the drivers foot well. I suspect the firewall will be a pain in the arse. If I ever do it again I'll make sure absolutely everything that can get in the way is removed, you have to work quickly. 5kg of tar taken out, plus another 5kg of rubber/felt sound deadening. I reckon on about another 5kg of tar. I'm also planning to do the next khana sans passenger seat which is about 15kg I think. Also haven't yet tried the car without rear sway bar. Hopefully, along with the softer springs, it will add up to a bit more traction and a bit less weight vying for that traction.

So I went back to Gilman to check out the AC on the KE70. I wanted the bracket as I now have an SC12 that I'm thinking of fitting. In the process of pulling out the bracket I noticed lugs on the head and thought, that's weird! Sure enough, the bronze coloured KE70 up there is fitted with a 5K and a 5 speed gearbox! So get in there for an easy upgrade. It also has some weird thermo fan fabbed up along with a home made controller! The KE55 has now gone, but they have a slanty 70 wagon and a drift pig 70 instead. Nothing interesting in either of them, but there are choppies in the back of the pig and choppies in the front of the wagon if that's your thing.

Initial spring assessment was wrong. Here's some details just in case anyone ever searches for details on rear springs: AE86 3.8 free coils, 11mm wire, 130mm OD, 342mm free length, 250mm installed length,120lb/in (TRD bible claims 105?) KE70 7.3 free coils, 12.2mm wire, 130mm OD, 365mm free, 250mm installed, 105lb/in The above is as installed in a KE70 with what seem to be stock Monroe shocks. Ride height is actually the same between springs, so it would appear that the KE70 coil is softer, which is what I was expecting. I'm having trouble reconciling the springs though. The bible claims 220mm or so installed length and 105lb/in for GT AE86 springs. I doubt that the rear of the '86 is that much heavier to compress them that much more. I must be missing something. Also, an SC12 may have made it's way into the shed.... :pulp:

This idea seems a bit gimmicky to me too. Wouldn't you want most of your clamping force at peak torque, which is generally further down the rev range than peak revs? Then at peak revs when you're most likely to shift wouldn't the weights add to the pedal force required to disengage the clutch? Like philbey said, just get a heavy duty.

Nice, another khana car, have you put something in My Rides? :)

Well you're probably running out of choke size. Generally 34mm is the largest that should go into a 40. If that's what you need for your tune with a single then it's going to be too small. According to my Weber Dellorto book they suggest for minis (1275, probably a reasonable starting point), 45mm carb with 36mm. From there it suggests 160 mains, 7772.6 emulsion tubes and 180 airs to begin with. 45/7850.1 or .2 for idles. Of course, all this goes out the window if you have emissions DHLA's which are identified by the complete number on the carb, you'll find this stamped on top of one of the throttle bores and it will be something like DHLA40G etc. If you have a DHLA40F,G,H,L or N then it's an emissions carb and you're probably better off finding a tuner who doesn't sound confused when you tell them what you have and taking it there. Many of them come off of Alfa's, so it might be work contacting an Alfa club and seeing where they get all their tuning done. Good luck!

I know some people are feeding twin carbs with the stock K fuel pump. Anyone know the HP or flow limit of a stock pump before you actually have to install an electronic? Cheers Mike

You'll lower the compression doing that unless you get the head skimmed. Or run a turbo. Can you rephrase the question regarding lifters?

You cut the spring seat off of the strut so it's just a tube with your hub at the bottom. The sleeve then goes over the tube. If you have a steel kit then you can weld the bottom of the threaded sleeve to your strut tube. Alternatively people make up rings to go over your strut tube and then sit the sleeve on top of that.