snot35

It's a pain, the only way I can see to get that 17.2mm fitting seems to be to convert to Ford or Holden studs with some thread pitch that's Imperial. My brain doesn't work with imperial!

Sorry Altezza, I just realised that you asked me a question and I didn't respond. I measured both sets last night and they're around the 17.2mm mark. I also have 3 other rogues that came with the car which I didn't measure 'cause I would have had to move too much crap :) All mine have slightly different offsets, but only by a mm or two. So you're running normal wheel nuts then? Do you run longer studs? I test fitted mine and I don't like the amount of thread engagement with normal nuts so I was thinking of getting longer studs and maybe some hub centering rings. I'm not sure how that's going to work on the front though, because I need 3mm spacers to clear the caliper :/

Doesn't the spring provide that initial resistance that will enrichen the mixture? It would have to build enough vacuum to overcome the spring resistance, I thought the pot oil damped this movement much like a car damper prevents oscillations in the springs. Yes they contribute to the resistance as well, but there's a bit of cross over there. Reading into it, it seems the bikers adjust the size of the vacuum bleed port into the pot to adjust accel enrichment. So there's the option to drill it out or put in restrictors to modify the accel characteristics. It seems some of the dyno jet kits include restrictors.

It's a good way of doing it. I look forward to seeing action shots, loving another khana car on the forum!

Khana's are great. Good cheap fun and you can be reasonably competitive in a '70. Nice work on the '55. I like the position numbers behind the wheel, you've been writing pace notes in that thing?

Depending how tall the spring is it might be a little too long. Get the spring as far over the tower and bump stops as you can, sometimes turning the spring will help move it up. When you need to get it onto the seat I often put a pole in between the chassis and diff and then stand on it with one foot to push the diff down away from the car so I get that little bit more room. If you're still having trouble maybe you can loosen the bolts holding in the trailing arms. It's the bushings in the arms resisting movement which makes this a little tricky sometimes. Unless you're using uncaptive cut springs, then it's really easy :P :)

Nothing interesting to report. Currently it's just amazing that I'm even getting to do anything on the car. I'm putting up posts so I keep momentum. :) Next event is July 22 and I'm hanging to get there. There's still a bit to do on the car. Last night I managed to swap over the rear springs to something softer. The rear sway bar has also gone and I've given the new radiator mounts a quick coat of etch primer before paint. I also found a few new holes in the floor that I've tried to seal. I also looked into refitting the heater but I'm not sure that the core that I scored won't leak. There's a bit of cracking around the tubes so I might pressure test it first. I'm trying to decide whether to bother with the heater or not. It would suck to get to the event and find I have no demisting! Other than that I just need to remount the seat and harness and we should be good. If I get the time I'll have a shot at putting in the new radius rod bushes that I have. The threads need a clean and I need to clearance the guards so I can wind in as much castor as possible. Having already done a bit of work on the back I'm a little hesitant to change too much at once. I also had a look at mounting mags that I've got. I picked up some 3mm spacers so they will now clear the front caliper. The only thing is the mags are much thicker so I'm definitely going to need some longer studs. This may have to wait for a little bit as I suspect I need to pull the axles out of the diff to change studs. What a pain in the arse!

My money is on him having shipped half a NASCAR.... :)

I also found the ports much better on a 5K. There's more potential if you decided to open up its breathing etc...

I've been debating bike carbs lately. I think it's quite do-able, and the CBR 600 carbs can be had so cheaply. I think the real way to look at it is HP. Ultimately you need to flow enough fuel and air for X number of HP. The CBR600F2 is rated for 74kw, how close do you think you'll be to that? There is probably some leeway either way too. They're supposedly 34mm (F2) to 36mm (F3) carbs. Given they have fairly clear throats they should be fine with the roughly 27mm ports of the 5K if you're only giving them a mild tidy. Definitely budget for tuning. If you're doing it yourself you might be OK. If you want someone else to do it you may want to make sure they can get their head around jetting a bike carb for a car. They may freak out :)

Is the AMR500 an always on SC, or clutched like an SC12? If it's clutched then just because it can do 15,000, doesn't mean it wants to do it a lot!

Damn you irokin and your short arsed answers :P

The problem with those calcs to my mind is that they assume 100% volumetric efficiency which rarely happens in the real world and far less likely to happen with a K motor. Those calcs assume that the engine will take in the full 1.5L every two revs. It's more likely that you have 75% efficiency (wild arse guess) and are only taking in 1.125L. In the case the SC has an easier time supplying the required air so you're more likely to get more boost. Try mucking around with the ingested volume and see what answer you get. I'd do it, but I can't be bothered :P :)

I guess the only other considerations would be, what computer are you using and is it a turbo block? The compression on NA AGE's is getting up there for turbo and the computer probably won't handle it well. The injectors are probably too small too. If you've got that covered then the answer would have to be a resounding yes :)

Yeah, you guys are making it REALLY hard for me to persist with the 4K in mine :P

I was under the impression you needed some sort of dispensation if you wanted to burn it though...

The LCA's shouldn't cause you too much trouble. I believe you can cut off the lock stops if you're worried. I didn't bother as my tyres are just shy of hitting the chassis rail anyway, but these are tall dirt tyres. If you're worried about having to pump guards then you're probably going to have plenty to work out anyway. The track change is very mild, I don't think too many would notice +10 either side.

hahaha Do it! The first Domo Keto.

Like you can legally obtain and burn leaded fuel anyway.

If it was one of those hump back 2+2 jags with the ugly lights then it would be OK... but as far as I can tell it isn't.

Search for stuff by tazrx, he's done it and has a reasonable build thread from memory.

Love the coil overs, offended by the munted Jag, keep it up! :)

Does that mean you won? :)

Yeah I reckon my stock sprinter springs are lower than that. Haven't quite worked out how low stock KE70's are yet. Slowly getting the car back together, so I might take some pics when it moves. :)

It's worth it, it helps with just about everything except for motor style food out cornering! :) My preference is for Time pedals. Shimano are OK, but I don't find the release as friendly. Crank Bros. were horribly unreliable for me.