snot35

The event has gone. The car did well in abysmal conditions. I managed 16th outright and 3rd in class behind two people in a pretty heavily worked mini. I doubt I'll ever be able to catch them. I was happy all up though. Looking forward to the next event at the end of the month and hoping to get some mods done in between. It was a bit hard to tell what difference no rear bar made, it was so muddy out there traction all different. It probably helped though!

Yeah, there's oil ways going to those lifters, if you run them you'll probably not have oil pressure to other parts of the motor and there's a chance you'll fry it. The above option is probably best. You'll probably have a hard time finding the push rods you need.

That was kind of what I'm referring to. But I'll concede that there doesn't seem to be much in the way of capacitors in a lot of stock style hall effect ignitions, the transistors are simply amplifying. I was thinking more about the Bosch HEI setups which I have when referring to electronic which are supposed to have a pretty impressive output. I still can't find any info to indicate that they carry a capacitor though.

It probably is, just not in the uber flame throwing fashion that you're thinking. I've read a reasonable amount that seems to indicate these sorts of kits generally won't make a heap of difference if the rest of the system is in good order. I think the point altezza made about not having a shagged dizzy to start with is very valid.

Do that. CDI is a generic term which could mean anything. The above mod is bolt in without having to do a heap of work.

It's really depends on what you're talking about, there are many different CDI units. Some are actually triggered by the points as an after market kit. They usually put less current through the points making them last longer. Some kits actually replace the points with magnetic or optical triggers, but effectively they are more or less the same. As long as the CDI box is triggered properly and you have a coil that is compatible with the box you should be fine on a 4K. What CDI are you looking at?

By the time you've got the materials and put it in you might as well hunt down a cleaner shell. I think perhaps you turn the car into a two seater with a cage as well (legally? that could be wrong).

26/27 are the size of the chokes in a 32/36 from a 2lt ford from memory. If you look at the base of the carb it will probably say 32/36, looking down the throats will give you the 26/27 number. I'm happy with mine, but I never had a stock carb to compare too. It's a little grumpy to start, but not too much. It seems to go quite well with a shaved head. More mods would be better I think, we'll get to that. It's probably one of the best value intake mods around I reckon and adds tunability as you do more to the motor.

I reckon you want to take into account advertised duration as well as at .050. This pretty much tells you the ramp rate on the cam. The 606 is pretty good for example, I reckon that's what I'll get. A faster opening means that you have the valve more open for longer and as a hell of a lot of flow happens throughout lift, not just at peak lift I think that's desirable. If the motor can handle faster opening then you should do it.

Obviously July 22nd didn't happen (had the flu) but I made it out yesterday. Conditions at the start of the day were awful. There was foot deep slush on some parts of the track and I was expecting to be one of the guys towed out. Fortunately, that didn't happen! I didn't get a chance to do much to the car, but we experimented with lower tire pressures and no rear bar. She'd also lost some weight since last run. Over all it went pretty well. It was hard to tell how much difference the bar made as it was so soft out there compared to the last time I ran it. Times seemed to be OK (except for the run where I left the handbrake on!). There was a Smallport 4AG out there that I was only slightly slower than, so I'm reasonably happy. I think the main area that needs improvement is the driver at the moment! I'm hoping some pics turn up somewhere, if they do I'll post.

Giddy up! You're going to have a few space challenges in there I think. Please make it a little prettier this time! :)

How about Blue Steel? :)

There is a huge amount of difference, mostly in height and combustion chamber size. From very small 5K big dish, to stock 4K. You have to say which K motor, or even better, measure it for yourself!

The dizzy thing is a problem, I'm pretty sure they all have it on the end of the head, so no, nothing from a 4AGE or anything else is going to help you there. You'll have to cut into the firewall and make a clearance. I'm with everyone else though, given how much all the bits for a conversion are, unless you have an AE71 already, just do the 4AGE. Given it's around $300 for a box, same for the hydro pedal box, $200 or so for the cross member, then you got clutch setup, engine mounts and you have to think about the water lines, it quickly cracks $1K before you've even started. You might as well do it properly. If you're on a budget then the 5K option is a great idea. I'm hoping that answers the question, I couldn't completely understand the post either.

Eh, good enough. As long as you're getting out there! :)

What's the plan? :)

What sort of pistons do you have in the block? If they are a fairly deep D shape then you're not going to have enough compression to run the 4K head unless you plan on forced induction. The problem with mixing and matching is that the push rods are shorter because the hydro lifters have a higher seat in them. You're really going to have to assemble it all and see if the followers wipe the end of the valves properly which ever setup you do. Mixing and matching is what makes swapping a pain. Get a 5K head if you can, the ports are generally a little nicer and you know you'll be closer to the correct geometry. I don't think there is a lot of difference in the height of the heads, but I'm not 100% on that. You might be able to adjust clearances by getting the follower towers machined a bit, but I wouldn't go too far with that as it may mess up other things.

Nice! :)

I thought fitting a 4K crank required stuffing around? Remember the 4K is a taller block to accommodate the longer stroke, so don't do that if you're on a budget. Go with the cam, carb, exhaust suggestion if the motor is OK. Also, look to the KE55 for a five speed, otherwise you'll need to enlarge the shifter hold in the floor. Also, a lower diff ratio makes the car peppier to drive but will reduce top speed. You'd really want a 5 speed. If you don't have it already, 4.3 is the ratio you're after. Also keep some money aside for a dyno tune once you've put those bits on. Try and find a 28/36 DCD Weber if you can, the 32/36 is likely to be way too big for a 3K. If you're frugal you should be able to do box, carb, exhaust and cam for that money, especially if you're doing to do a lot yourself.

Love your work!

Nice, I've been meaning to make a setup like that for a while. I know what you mean about things getting hectic, so tape measure will do for a while longer yet! Enjoy the holiday and events!

If you get that and drive it to the shops, you're doing it wrong. :)

Hmm, 86 GTS or this, very tough choice :P

So much awesome!

Toyota's seem to use the M12x1.5mm pitch studs. If you want longer ones you should be able to raid something like a Landcruiser or Hilux at a wreckers.