the witzl

Laws have changed in nsw, it's now if the power increases by 15% over the original engine, you need engineers certificate.

Price drop! Down from $9800 to $8900...... need to sell!

It's time for us to upgrade to a larger car, thanks to starting a family..... so the little Audi has to go :( It's been family owned since brand new, with my dad buying it off the showroom floor back in early 2001 (its a 10/2000 build), and me buying it off my old man in July 2011. Being a showroom car, its fully optioned up. Factory Details: - Audi A4 1.8T Quattro GP version (B5 series) - October 2000 build, sold 2001 to my dad. - Turbo 1.8L 20V engine, 132kW version (the lastest B5 quattro, aka the "GP edition") - updated AJL engine, with better turbo, more boost, and more awesomes - 4WD quattro, 5sp manual gearbox - full black leather interior - projector headlights - metallic paint - sports pack suspension (factory lowered, and upgrade shocks) - factory sunroof - front foglights - full climate control aircon - digital LCD dash display - 17" factory alloy rims (5 of them!) - 182,000kms - log book servicing up to around 150,000kms The Other Bits of Noteworthyness - 225/45R17 tyres, around 60% or better tread (bought new when i took it off dad) - Completely replaced front suspension and steering components (was a 2 day job!!!) - aftermarket MP3 CD headunit (Alpine or Sony, depending on sale price) - Jaycar Response 5" splits up front - Vifa 6.5" speakers in the rear - Projector headlights converted to HID - front and rear bars re-sprayed 11 months ago - new lower front bar fitted 11 months ago - tinted windows (done by timtams on toymods not even 2 months ago) - brand new replacement clutch with lighter single mass steel flywheel brand new in box, ready to fit (when the stock clutch dies) - front brakes replaced with DBA Gold series drilled/slotted rotors and ferodo pads (10 months old) It's pretty much stock, bar the stereo fitted and HID headlights. Everything else ive done has just been fixing the car really. THe front suspension is a common issue with this model car. After around 120,000-150,000kms all the ball joints and bushes in the front suspensino feck themselves.... so when i took the car off dad i replaced the ENTIRE front suspension and tie rods with brand new German Meyle items (upgraded over factory). It brought the handling back to life and really shows just how great this car handles now. Here is the kit i bought - http://www.ecstuning...rol_Arm/ES3005/ At the same time, i bought a replacement clutch and flywheel package from ECS tuning - http://www.ecstuning.../Clutch/ES5485/ This replaces the stock dual mass flywheel and clutch, which costs around $2000 to replace (have to replace flywheel as well). I havent fitted it yet, cos the factory clutch is still going strong! I have been priced up at $450 to fit the new clutch combo with B&R Brakes castle hill. About a year ago some knob wanged the front bar.... so we got that replaced, along with a lower front bar, and then got both the front and rear bar re-sprayed (rear bar had some scratches). The paint has been treated with the McGuires 3-step treatment pretty much its whole life since new, and looks AWESOME with a fresh wash. Also, my dad had the bonnet and guards resprayed a couple of years back to fix some stone chips with Prestige Auto Salon Rydalmere. Rego expires July 2013. Kms are 182,000. Price is $9,800 ono Located Baulkham Hills, Sydney.

get an aftermarket ECU for a start.......

yep - get shock inserts to suit the rear end of an SW20. Then tell whatever guy you get to do the coilover conversion to shorten the strut tube accordingly. It fixes up the shock travel when the car is lowered, so that the shocks don't bottom out when its lowered. I just had my XT130 struts converted to coilover, using Otomoto kit and KYB agx shocks for SW20 rear end.

Fyi.... here is a link to a crapload of info on the Volvo diffs, which is a Dana 30 diff: http://people.physics.anu.edu.au/~amh110/Diff_LSD/diff_lsd_volvo_dana.htm And here is some info on what cars you can get an F series diff from: http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.php?t=msg&th=33561 One point that I should recommend, is to find a diff with similar width to your stock diff (wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face). For example, the KE70 stock width is around 1410mm, and the volvo 240 is 1420mm. Thus very close, and means you don't have to get the diff shortened at all!! Most of the toyota crown F series diffs are around that 1400mm width mark iirc.... but a trip to a wreckers will anser that for you! Actually... just confirmed that MS112 diff is 1410mm also.

Perhaps i should weigh in with my $0.02. .... Forget T and S series diffs, unless you are an idiot who enjoys the smell of diff oil - cos you will be swaping a LOT of centres and axles. They are farken piss weak. Axles are about as thick as a 2B pencil and equally as strong. The gears in the centres are equally poo..... they chew out at the slightest sign of being placed under load. How do i know this? AE71 4age = killed 3x T series centres AE71 4agte (116rwkw only) = kiled 1x T series centre, and had one axle twisted at the splines RA28 18RG = killed 2x T series centres .... and S series is even more sh!t than T series. So what does Witzl recommend? F series (eg, MS113, MS123, etc) Volvo 240. R31. Commodore. Hilux. Anything similar. My personal preference for your application is with the F series diff. They are pretty cheap to buy, easy to do a disc brake conversion on (in fact, i think MS123 is already disc brake), and you can get a Detroit Trutrac torsen LSD for them. They are also a lot lighter than the Hilux G series diffs, and the carrier isnt as large either. My personal choice for me is the Volvo 240. Comes with disc brakes (twin piston), axles of death (bigger than hilux), wouldve been babied their whole life, aftermarket centres not an issue (dana 30), and they are bloody cheap usually. I have a lot more power to pay down than you do though, so this might be overkill for you. FYI - i had a quote from Craft Diffs to get a volvo 240 diff converted to suit my KE70, including new bearings, weld and redrill axles for 4x114.3mm, and fit a trutrac lsd centre that I supply.... was around $950 iirc. Add about $600 for the diff centre inc. shipping, plus maybe $200 to buy the whole volvo diff..... and you have a sub $2000 diff that will handle over 200rwkw. FYI - here is my volvo diff in the KE70

full tightarse 4age 16v conversion will cost you around $2500.... thats waiting for parts to come up at the right price 2nd hand, and not bothering to rebuild that 4age you bought for around $800 with ecu and loom. Thats keeping stock diff and brakes, and doing EVERYTHING yourself, and only blue-slipping the engine number to the car.

good info - i didnt realise you could bend these stalks.... i always thought they were just plastic and would therefore just snap off!! I'll be diong this mod next week for sure.

Correct. Funnily enough, a 4agze is harsher on a gearbox than a turbo 4age..... due to the supercharger providing torque in a much more brutal and instant fashion. Turbos apply torque a little more progressively by contrast. Get a W55/57/58 box. Get 4ag to W5x bellhousing. Get custom tailshaft. Skids.

many people when making their own engine mount brackets to adapt to the OEM mounts on the crossmember will change to a different rubber mount. Typically people go for the "cortina" rubber engine mount - because they are CHEAP, often made with urethane these days, and piss easy to use - they just have a single threaded rod coming out of each side. They look kinda like this. With your SR conversion, you will also have to make a custom gearbox crossmember, and the shifter position will also likely be further back than stock - meaning chop chop to the transmission tunnel You will also NEED a diff upgrade. Many options available.... Good luck with it.

over the years ive been playing with cars... ive changed. Been doing the toymods things for over 10 years now.\ ... and what have i don't that was dodgy? :P THe concerns i have with the central locking actuators is that they are generally not rated for a super high cycle life, and given the likely frequency with which the factory diff lock actuator would be working, i would think that the electric motors would fail pretty regularly? I'm the sort of person who will raise a concern, and be more than happy to hear evidence that shows I'm an idiot. IE, I'm happy to be shown I'm wrong. If it were me, i would probably just give it a go, but cos this is for a mate, i would rather avoid doing things that arent 100%. I don't want ot be constantly fixing things for them. Oh, and cheers for the reply :)

depends on your local authorities, and or engineering signatories. Best and safest way is to buy an AE86 jdm EFI fuel tank, but they are hard to find and expensive. Alternative is a surge tank and external pumps. To make things more police friendly, avoid running lines into the cabin or boot space - mount things under the car if you can.

AE86 coilover struts are such a waste of money. Talk about takumi tax! Here is where I'm going: XT130 corona struts Hilux 4-piston calipers Pugeot big vented rotor Otomoto weld on coilover sleeve kit (~5kg springs... i don't like rough rides) Stock strut tops XT130 steering arms XT130 lower control arms (optional, will see if i need to fit them) KYB excel G shocks Total cost = $1000. Alternative to the "HPC" brake upgrade (fyi, HPC = hilux/pug/corona) is to go the nissan/ba falcon big brake upgrade..... however these need larger wheels to fit them. I'm going the HPC brakes cos they fit inside the MA61 wheels I'm running. So cheaper than any AE86 coil over, and INCLUDES a massive brake upgrade.

How good a price you got comes down to the condition of the motor, and what parts are inside. If its in good nick, good compression readings and timing chain guides in good nick, then its a fair price. If it has the early 9.7:1 pistons or aftermarket, then you got a good price. No way to tell without opening it up tho.