snot35

All those classics look awesome, much more interesting than the WRC's and they're pretty nice! Shame about the 27

Nooooo! Maybe it's good the block is kaput, it seems to be cursed?? Hope you got a few good stages out, sorry it wasn't more!

OK, I think what he is saying is re do the compression test in the fashion that he described earlier. He seems to think that one of the carbs is affecting the test, which in my experience is entirely plausible. If you're not sure, take it somewhere to get help. You could dump a heap of cash to rebuild, but if you whack the same carbs on you could well have the exact same problem. It might take you a little while, but learn to trouble shoot this stuff now. Once learnt, it's never unlearnt :)

Day 1, strong start and then right down the bottom of the field? What's happened? :)

I see. Isn't there still a minimum weight for the classics?? I'm impressed too :) Don't worry, if I have any questions, I'll be sure to shoot them through. At the moment I'm still working my way through the suspension to get the handling sorted out, but I've probably drawn as much as I can out of you guys about that topic :) So, how different is the suspension on the new car from the old? ;)

I'd suggest that if the carb's aren't lined up particularly well that that isn't going to do you any favours. Can you fix it?

What class are you running? Aren't you supposed to be around the 880 mark? 810 is very impressive. As I work my car through it's diet, I may have to talk to you ;)

Hub centric would be best, but as above, a lot of people run spacers and mags that do not locate on the hub other than by the studs and it's been fine.

If they're not closing properly make sure everything is completely flat. If you have twin carbs then the spindles should be near to exactly in line and not binding. If they aren't then they might not shut properly. To do this make sure everything makes lines up properly. Both the bottom and top faces should be parallel to the manifold and in line vertically. Weird slow rev down might also be an air leak or mixtures.

Picked up some near new second hand shocks for the TE72 struts today. They're just Pedders Comfort Gas, but should last in the khana car for quite some time. The next thing I have to sort out is steering knuckles. I'm going from 125mm arms on the KE70 struts to around 140mm on the TE72. It's going to steer like a boat, something I definitely don't want! I might have to spring for some AE86 PS arms or similar. It's a bit annoying, because that's probably $140 or so and when the upgrade so far is $17 for shocks and struts for free it blows the budget a bit :P I'm a bit worried about how the brakes will feel with the upgrade too. Anyone know the piston size of the KE70 caliper off the top of their head? The TE72 is 51mm.

Vice grips were crap, but I worked something else out. One strut is apart, other soon unless someone can urgently lend me some spare time :) Thanks folks!

Finally had success with mine. Noticed some holes in the top hats and that the damper shaft did have flats on it that meshed with the top had. Found a big rigging wrench with a similar hole in it too. One bolt in both holes and a long lever on the end of my wrench and apart it came. Took long enough! Now on to the next rebuild challenge :) Cheers folks

No dice with the pipes, damnit! I suspect my multigrips are a little too cheap and spindly. I also suspect the bolts were put on with a rattle gun! :P

You know what? I would have thought of that eventually! But you've probably saved me a week ;) Thanks for the tip!!

Please excuse my french, but f&*k yeah! The car looks awesome, I hope you guys have a blast at Coffs. Oh, and pics/vids or it didn't happen :)

Yeah, I'm not getting anywhere with the vice grips and bike tyre. Damn it! :/ This is turning into a saga. The top perches do seem to have holes for some sort of over sized pin wrench and there does appear to be flats, might try that next.

Cheers buddy! I've got hold of some vice grips, so I'll give them a shot. Turns out my brother has one so I might be able to commandeer that. I never suspected a cabby would need a rattle gun, but he's got one :) If it doesn't work out I'll get in touch.

I'm going through the same dilemma at the moment, it's not yet solved :) Not all makes actually have the flat in my experience.

Nice, private test session! Where was our invites? I've got some new springs to test :)

Interesting choice, why one of these?

You guys are awesome! Actually, that raises a good point. I don't actually care about the shocks coming out, so it doesn't matter if bugger the shafts. Do you need a rattle gun to tighten them sufficiently when you put them back in?

Hello kind patrons of Rollaclub :) Does anyone around the Blackwood-ish area have a rattle gun that I could borrow or make use of? I need to get some inserts out of some struts and they're spinning. I'm hoping to find someone close-ish. Quite willing to bring struts to you if you're not happy to let tools out (which I totally understand)! I want to clean up the struts and might need to visit again to do the nuts up afterwards? Cheers all! Mike

Yeah I should have added that as well. If you've got the 44mm struts, upgrade to something 51mm. Getting decent shocks for the smaller strut is near impossible and would make the trouble of a coil over conversion not worth it. If you've got 51mm then you're a lot better off. I'm experimenting with spring rates myself at the moment. I'm going by the AE86 Rally setup in the Corolla Bible and an old Escort rally prep manual. At the moment I'm going for around 110lb/in in the front of my khana car for reasonably well graded gravel. I intend to try around 140-150lb/in at some stage. According the the Escort prep manual 145lb/in is the go for a general loose surface spring. I've not tried them yet though, so that could be crap :)

Simple, measure the Outside Diameter! Get yourself some cheap plastic verniers if you don't already have some, it will make it simple. If you have a domestic 71-73 then it's highly likely you have small struts, but you will want to check before ordering.

I removed that gear on mine. Can't say I actually tested before and after, but given I've got a weber as well then the whole system probably doesn't work as intended anyway. I'd imagine the revised exhaust etc of the later KE70's probably account for the "more revvy" feel than this little valve...