snot35

Sorry dude, but can you rephrase that post?

Well auto is a whole other ball game again! :)

But it still goes through a diff that changes the ratio again. I'd imagine you'll find a variation between every gear due to different losses, but I'd be really interested to actually see what the difference is.

AL25's. My wife used to have one. The flywheel pretty much sat on top of the front diff. Changed the clutch in it. That's far too many hours of my life I'm not getting back. What a pain in the arse!!! Just to really piss me off the car got a terminal defect a couple of months later and has been put out to pasture! The original post is a curious concept. The diff's in them aren't big, and probably don't have LSD options, so I'm not sure how well the setup would actually work.

Good luck with that. Leads of the exact same material with be a difference resistance with a different length. I'm not sure about your leads, but most of mine are different lengths. A quick google seems to indicate these leads are within acceptable limits.

If you look into some of the rules around for calculating peak power, with the size of the ports it would indicate that 5k is about the peak, then it's downhill from there.

I wouldn't worry about it. With the high voltage that's pumped through leads, that small a difference isn't going matter. And yes, Ohm is spelt correctly. :)

Yeah I've been looking at your build. I'd ask what you ended up doing, but I'm not sure I want compression that high! :)

Yes it's quite odd. It actually looks like exactly the same stud as what it used for the sump from the block side. It looks fairly factory and like it should have something attached to it, but never mind! The next question would be, are D dish pistons still available? ACL doesn't seem to indicate any.

Thanks for your help folks! Very much appreciated.

Yikes, this would be around 1mm deep. It seems like a lot to have taken off of the head. Anyone know the cc for one of these heads? I get around 16-17cc I've read through the faq quite a few times. Thank you for the offer of help. It's a shame if I can't use this head, the port shape is soooo much nicer than that of the 3k's that I have. Is the 4k head any better??

What sort of depth does it have normally? And I guess this is a good segway into planning what to do with this block. I have most bits, but I don't have any lifters, so it will need some sort of conversion. This opens me to getting O dish pistons and maybe putting a 4K head on it? But then I need to work out push rod lengths. Does anyone have any advice on that topic regarding which direction to head? :) I was planning to bump the compression up to around 9.8 to 10. Cheers

Just for clarity, this appears to be a 5K head. It has the lugs on 1 and 4 and came with a D dish piston block.

I don't quite get that so far. It's a lug, but it has a thread? When I mated the head to the block it didn't locate to anything, it just fell into an empty area in the block where the lifters are, not locating anything at all. Has it been surfaced that much, i.e. is it knackered?? Please say no! :)

Hey folks, Just got hold of a 5K for rebuild (thanks SLO-030). Having a look over the head, and it has a stud in it that points down into the lifter gallery. Just wondering, can anyone tell me what it's for? Cheers Mike

When you fire it up for the first time, please oh please make a video and post it! :) Oh, and maybe a few stage videos down the track... ;)

This is rollaclub, physics has no place here

Wow, that is very nice work. This is going to be a very fun car! Thanks for sharing the build with us :)

Something about coil overs for $180US scares me!

So when you say 4a based, do you mean it has to look like a 4a and compatible with a couple of bits? :hmm: And how long does the engine have to survive for?

I don't think anyone could probably say for sure on this one, with no one having tried it, but 20000rpm is F1 territory, and having seen some F1 engine gut photos, I'm thinking you'd need to do a lot of work to get there. I'm thinking the piston speed to get up there would probably be too high, and you'd actually want a shorter stroke combined with some very trick pistons, rings, rods and crank.. I'd also be curious to know if the block would hold up to it. I'd say you'd want some pretty good block modification to make sure it survives. Maybe sleeves, or extra support at the very least?

I think a TA22 Celica diff may be the right width? Then you have access to LSD's. You'll still need to weld spring mounts on though, and maybe get a custom tail shaft?

You bag S.A. with that spelling and punctuation?

Bugger the Aisin modification, get a throttle body from an EA falcon if you want bolt on injection. They use the Weber bolt pattern so your adapters will work too.

See, I was always under the impression that there is in fact a regulator in the factory fuel pump. There has to be, as even a stock carb is built to run at a particular fuel pressure. However, I wouldn't be surprised if it isn't a particularly good regulator, as it's designed to supply a small carb that isn't particularly accurate at times. Once you start upping the fuel delivery requirements, along with running a better tune, this will only highlight its inabilities. But I think the general answer would have to be, get a good regulator. At the end of the day it's going to make getting a good tune on the delly's so much easier.