snot35

I'd work out what you're planning to do with the motor first. It takes a good chunk of money to properly setup some dellortos or webers. If you're going to keep the car for a while and tune it then it would make sense. They are infinitely more tunable than the 3k-b carbs, and have much more potential. I'd stick with the k-b carbs for now until you get bored. Then decide if it's time for a complete swap, or new carbs.

Just a quick point. I'm wondering if the whole smaller carb better airspeed argument applies in the same way to SU's. After all, we have a piston to regulate airspeed. Of course it's ideal if the piston is completely open at the same time as maximum air flow of the whole system, but if this doesn't happen I doubt that it going to matter quite so much, as long as you have the right needles. Indeed Datsun A12's had a sport model in Japan that used 1.5 SU's.

Yeah I was just about to add that. I'm not sure I understand why you'd use alloy spacers, it kind of defeats the purpose, unless you're using it to narrow down diameter. Even then maybe there are better ways to do it? The Datsun spacers, which I'm using, are definitely for heat insulation, and have rubber on each side for a bit of sealing.

A reverse lip is a different ball game! I doubt you'll notice a whole lot of difference with the types of entry. I'd go with whatever fits, is available and within budget. Then make sure they're getting plumbed nice cool air. Unless you're chasing a whole lot of power over a narrow range then length probably isn't quite so critical.

I've you decide to go the dual bar method, I have pics of a setup removed from car in the shed, if you like :lolcry: From a KE55 I believe

I used an angle grinder to grind down the head of a suitably sized long bolt into a J shaped hook. I then put an old flywheel over the other end with the tip of the J pointing up so that any weight on the bolt would make sure the hook was engaged. Put on nut and you have an instant slide hammer/bearing puller. Only took one pop, perfect! Grease just sounded too messy to me :no2:

I've used JR Southcotts's (NOT the one in the city) a few times. They've been pretty good for me with engine machining.

I think most 3T's are supposed to bore up to 2lt quite well. I've seen 88.5 and 89mm piston options around, but I don't know of their availability. You may have to spend a bit. It's a pretty common mod. It will make the motor less revvy, unless you change things to take full advantage of it. You may or may not want this. Coupled with other mods it should make quite a difference.

Head over to kp61.net and join the forum. I reckon if you search around you'll find some posted figures. I have some figures at home somewhere, but they were generated on my dodgy home made flow bench. You don't want those :dance:

Short of going out into the shed to count turns on my KE55 box, wikipedia says 1.435

I second that. I have only little experience with the Vizard books, but A. Graham Bell's book is my personal bible! There's great stuff on there. Good luck with the build, and well done on asking the question. If there were good options out there, it would be worth knowing about! Unfortunately there isn't, but generally it hasn't been a limitation either.

You're going to have to check a whole bunch of things to make sure it works properly, wipe pattern, spring binding etc. Why reinvent the wheel when you could just get a cam ground? For such a small engine, the higher ramp speed may only make a barely noticeable difference. I'd go for a basic port job first, there is quite a few areas in there that need obvious tidying up. That will help a whole lot with mid range as well as high end without pushing the valves out further.

Looks awesome, snip snip! :y:

Buy the 3KB and then transplant the cam and head/carbs onto a 4K. More capacity, instant porting and higher compression. Should go pretty well.

Depends what sort of carb you've got. If it's the original then you're pretty limited, if it's a weber or similar, take it to a dyno shop!

Have you retuned it with the new exhaust?

I don't think you're behind the eightball if you're comparing 3k's and a12's. They are very similar in a lot of ways. However, if you can easily get parts for a Datsun then that may be a better path. If you can't fix a race car, you won't be racing it a whole lot! Comparing a fully worked Festiva or Bug with a cheaply modded KE30 is never going to be fair. Whatever you run, unless it's developed, you'll be looking at tail lights. I doubt similar mods to a Datsun will make much difference either. Go with what youc an afford, and more importantly, afford to fix. If you have to ship spares from the otherside of the country then it's not going to work.

You're out already?! You should put a T motor in it, I believe they're pretty available over there. More capacity than most K motors, and a heap of tuning parts. I think they may have also been domestically sold over there, so you should be able to find all the right bits.

If you want hard copies, the book "Four stroke performance tuning" by A. Graham Bell has a great chapter on exhausts, with a few formula for calculating length based on displacement, camshaft timing etc. There is so much good stuff in that book, I highly recommend it.

This thread probably belongs in Rollaclub Rides, or Technical Builds. Otherwise, I look forward to seeing how you get it going faster on a budget as I'm doing a similar thing to my 4 door KE30. All the best!

I reckon go the flares. That other KE20 with the TE27 flares looked tough. If you have to space slightly so it looks right, so be it! I just got my superlites last night. Very nice wheel! Now I have to bring the rest of the car up to scratch :hammer:

From memory an RX7 rear end is up around the 3.7 or 3.9 mark? I'm not sure if that's the same in the US, but that sort of ratio wouldn't make the car feel particularly snappy :hammer:

I remember seeing someone who had done this maybe in Ireland. I found the link after digging around on either club-k.co.nz or kp61.net. You'll have to join and do searches. It sounded awesome!

Wow, there's a bit of work there! Cool that you're going to rescue it though! Duel outlet exhaust is the better of the two exhausts. I don't think factory electronic ignition is really anything to rave about, but if you've got it then definitely keep it. Good luck with it! :bash:

I don't think you can probably have an air filter that's too big. I think exhaust is probably a good idea. If you've got any change you could get the head skimmed for a bit more compression :)