snot35

Any ideas what the car weighed ready to go?

I figured it must have been, the welded back of the head threw me a little. The combustion chambers seem a little deeper than I was expecting, but fair enough! :)

Nice work! What sort of head is that out of curiosity? They're decent sized ports but it's got the weird old valve sealing arrangement.

It's got nothing to do with lift, Tighe will have to grind down the base circle of the came to get the extra lift. Depending how it lines up and if you've had anything skimmed from the head, you may need to get the rocker blocks machined. The more lift is ground into the new cam, the more machining you'll need.

I'd say it would be OK for daily use if your engine is tuned to use it. It's a fair way different from a stock cam though, so if you've still got stock carby, exhaust etc. then I'd imagine it would be worse than stock.

How long is a piece of string?

Wow, very clean. Sounds like similar specs to what I'd like to do, except I'd probably keep the EFI. Keep the pics coming though, it's very inspiring. It might actually get me to finish the KE30 in the shed and do a historic even some time this year ;)

Damnit, you're turning this thing into my dream project car! So what's the plan for the drive line? What sort of specs, if you don't mind? :bash:

This is very broad, but if you grab a book like Four Stroke Performance tuning it will give you a pretty good answer. It really depends a whole lot on the particular motor of course, but stock cams seem to be around the 250 something mark. Full race seem to get up around 320, rally seems around the 290-300 mark, and sports fills the gaps in between stock and rally-ish. Of course lift is a whole other matter too. I think around 30% or so of the valves diameter seems to be around the go, but please note this is really really broad. Cams also differ in how quickly they lift the valves, so it's worth noting timings at .5" lift. I believe around 200 is stock, semi race is around the 220 range and 240 is starting to get more rally style. Please note these are all really really broad figures. The above book will tell you a whole lot, and is a great read.

Sorry, that was more aimed at jono. If you try and accelerate and it has flat spots then first thing I'd check would be the accelerator pump. If you take the filter off and look down the throat then you should see evidence of fuel being dumped into the carb when you turn throttle plates at a reasonable pace.

Sorry to see it got snotted. If this is seriously a for sale you'll want to put it in the correct section.

Is your accelerator pump working?

I believe that people put vacuum canisters on those setups. So you'll have an air tight box or cylinder with about 6 hoses on it. 4 will go to the throttle bodies, one will go to the MAP sensor and the other will go to the brake booster. Do a search on 4age ITB's though, there is plenty of pictures and info out there on the net. I'd be a little worried that a standard computer won't cope with it though.

Build looks awesome, exactly what I want to do one day! There's something about a white flat front. Although I want to do flares and glass with the new club regs.... One can dream :thumbsup:

Give your sarcasm meter a knock, I think it's on the blink.

When he says port, I'm assuming it means changing the shape of the port for a different function. A tidy up and a polish (that being a whole other argument) isn't really porting.

It's true! If I recall correctly, last time I rebuilt a box I chucked a 3/8" extension through a galv fence in frustration. I'm normally pretty chilled... ;) I'd be surprised if you can get a rebuild kit as such, but I could be wrong. You might be able to replace the bearings without too much trouble, at least some should be standard items. Shims on the other hand, you may have to make something to fit.

There's probably not a whole lot of point on a 4AF, they should have pretty decent ports to begin with. You'd probably only do it if you're also putting in big cams and changing the whole induction system. There would be easier ways to get more go first.

hahahaha

Plus auto's tend to suck more power out of the drive line. It'll be faster. It'll feel faster. If you can't find a 5 speed, even a 4 speed will be better.

Considering how many of them are probably anywhere near tuned for a particular motor, probably either. Both will likely be better than a stock manifold.

Who knows, it could well have come from Finland or around there. There seems to be a lot of TTE gear in that part of the world. A lot of Swedes and Finns campaigned Toyota's in that period.

I've seen shots of that one before. I think it's an enthusiasts car in Japan. In other references I'm pretty sure the motor is a 151E. Anyone read the specs in the above links about the TE37? 170HP twin cam in it, and solid front disks! What?!? I guess he has little intention to stop :D

Do a search. I believe tweakit.net (?) has them if you have trouble with sprints.

Check out wikipedia for this sort of info. According to that the F head is narrow valve angle. Generally thought to be better for performance, but there are a few other design features that make it not so good for performance. Depending on what you want to do, it might be better to hold out for a G head.