snot35

If you're going to cut them, I'd cut from outside rather than inside. Remove any chrome stripping first to make it easier, then cut. If you cut from inside there is a whole lot of gummy sealant that sticks to everything that is going to make your life very hard. Plus the corner is quite tight. I've used the sitting down and push method before, even without an interior and it works well, but don't push too hard! Take it very very slowly. Using this method I've broken one out of the three windows I've done so far. Sorry ROL-110! :/ Unfortunately the roof lining is usually glued and folded over the edge underneath the rubber. If you don't want to destroy it you have little choice. Chances are it will probably tear at some stage anyway!

Yep, short shifters make the throw of the shifter smaller, i.e. a shorter shift! If you can't get it in gear easily then that's a whole different problem, and a short shifter will probably make it worse. I'd be putting fresh oil in the box, and checking for play in the shift linkages. I don't know if the AE92 is cable or linkage, but probably cable. Check the cables run freely, and there is no binding in the levers on the box. If there is, then it probably is synchros!

From what I've read, 2nd and 3rd are different ratios, but I can't verify this. Even then, I doubt you'd notice the difference. The good thing about a 5speed is it adds over drive. 4 speed ratios go from about 3.7 in 1st through to a 1:1 4th gear. A 5 speed is simply and extra over drive gear. So after your 1:1 4th you get a 0.865 ratio. This means you'll be revving your engine less on the freeway in 5th, than you will in 4th. With the low diffs in rolla's, that's a good thing!

I was there a couple of months ago and both were gone, me taking one of them. They do turn over stock fairly quickly there though, so who knows, they may have more! There's only one way to find out.

Measure it, and CC all the combustion chambers while you're there.

I remember hearing years ago about people putting twin cam heads from something like a BMW motor cycle on an old single cam block. I think maybe it was for a mini motor? I know the theory was good, but I'm not sure that they ever got it working properly, if at all. If you wanted to do it, you'd have to trawl through many many engine specs, find a head with the same cylinder spacing, and then start worrying about cam drive train, head stud spacing etc etc etc. It doesn't sound like much, but to build something that doesn't blow up in 10k's is a monumental effort. If you have access to a mechanic and a workshop, just work with what you've got. Learn to port properly, maybe stroke the motor. Learn about performance induction, build your own exhaust etc etc. This will be plenty to keep you busy, and should go OK if you do it properly. You'll also get a heap more speed by learning to properly tune suspension etc, and by lightening your car. All this can be done without attracting unwanted attention. To make a well balanced modified modified car will take you quite some time. Half the fun in modifying is getting the most bang for your buck. Trying to hack on a DOHC isn't going to be the most...

It's probably a little on the large side, but it should do OK. People seem to get away with 32/36 webers, so why not! I think you can choke it down to 34mm, you wouldn't want to go larger than this unless it's truly a race motor. I'd also look into porting unless you've already got a big port head or similar. If you're putting it on say a 3K head with the tiny ports (25mm) it'd probably be a bit of a dog.

By rally do you mean, Production Rally Car, or, hack through the forrest with my mates car? Not much of this stuff is legal if it's for PRC. And yes, don't drill out chassis rails!

Definitely have a look at the FAQ, then, at the risk of sounding boring work out what you want to do and plan it! No point turbo'ing it if you can't afford to do a good job and it fries motors all the time. Not that a replacement motor is hard to come by for these things, but if it's your only car to get to work and you're changing motors every weekend you're going to get pissed off pretty quickly. Not to mention legalities. So, you want more out of her, in a straight line? Around corners? Do you want to take it to the track on weekends? Drags? Most importantly, what's your budget, and how much do you know about working on cars?? Give us a bit more info and I'm sure the heads around here can give you some good ideas, but only after you read the FAQ a few times! :hmm:

Where do you live? I don't want to be anywhere near you when you start driving that thing on the road in the wet.

The only thing I can think of regarding space is getting some really short air horns, and using some of the lynx/ramflo filters. They have a reasonably low height, and you can also get some that are off set. I think that they are available off set upwards, but you'd have to check. Check out lynxcorp.com.au and have a browse around their Ramflo catalogue. Also search for weber air horns on ebay. The seller Fast Road Cars has some that only protrude about 16mm from memory. It's going to be a tight fit whichever way you go. Thats the lowest profile setup that I can think of. Oh, and I can't guarantee all those parts work together out of the box! :nervous: A lot of people also run the ramflo filters without the air horn, but I wouldn't advise that. P.S. Nice setup! One day I'll do the same, sticking with a single for the moment |blink|

I have no experience, but I think you can hook these into megasquirts as well. Then the unit will pretty much tune itself. Very cool! Either way, I think it's a good investment. Another one of interest is the tech edge wide band unit. Can't remember the URL. Google should help.

To make it easier for you guys, the one in the aqua 55 is now gone! I also pulled the cover on the one in the white 55 and the box is very tidy inside. I'd jump in there and grab it if I were you guys. I didn't put all the inspection cover bolts back in, but they are all there in the dizzy cap under the gearbox. As a bonus, the guy didn't even ask me if it was 4 or 5 speed, he just charged me $72! Bonus! :P North fence.

Damn! Thanks for the heads up, might just have to look into that on the weekend :P

Slightly off topic, but I've been debating a DCD lately. What is parts availability like, and what's a baseline tune?

Definitely quieten it down, then see if you can get it jetted. Changing exhaust affects mixtures.

As far as the Classic Adelaide goes, if you're going for competition then I think they are pretty keen on preserving the classic feel of the event, so you're definitely stuck with older cars. I think the regs they run are outside of CAMS as well, at least they used to be. Have a look here: http://www.silverstoneevents.com/ca07/comp...on_suppregs.htm I get the impressiong Targa is a little more open and you can run more interesting combinations. If I were doing the Classic I'd go for something I could squeeze a 2TG in. There has been a KE15 sprinter that's been running in it for years, I'm pretty sure they pop up on this forum every now and then. Do a bit of searching around, I'm sure they'll be able to help a lot.

I guess it depends what you want to achieve with your car. If the S600 is the car I'm thinking of, you probably don't have a hell of a lot of space? Unless it's an all out race weapon, I'd probably have two outlets from the exhaust manifold, and join them downstream a little. Do a web search, there are a few formulas around for calculating primary length. I'd say you want to join the pipes somewhere around a metre downstream from the side of the head, for a pretty stock 4k with a torque peak of around 4500rpm. 1.75 is probably as big as you need. More than that will probably just make it noisy.

I wouldn't ditch the rollercoaster dip, try and turn it into as gentle a turn as possible. Porting will be hard to do right without a flow bench or similar. If you've got an aftermarket manifold and a better carb then match the manifold to the ports. If you want to go further there are a few steps in both the intake and exhaust ports where the port turns onto the top of the valve, smooth these into as big a radius as you can but don't get rid of everything. You don't want to lower the floor of the port. If you've got huge valve guides like most replacements are, then thin these down, and you could probably take some material from the surrounded boss. You also don't want to remove material from from the wall of the port next to the exhaust port, this will hurt swirl if you get carried away. Get a three angle valve job as well, and once it's all done, get your carb rejetted. Shouldn't be too hard to find a larger gasket, some of the earlier cars had larger ports.

Damn, bad about the bingle. Loving the project though, keep up the good work! I'm getting pretty crazy workshop envy too!

So what sort of compression does the 3K-H have? I've been told that it has higher compression. Any ideas of combustion chamber size? Thanks

If you're going to muck around with motors, probably the 4AC is the way to go. They'd be a bit older, so you should be able to get more of them for less money, if you're going to blow them up! 4A refers to the blocks specifications, bore and stroke will be the same with all motors, and you should be pretty sucessful at swapping parts. I can't guarantee that you can swap everything though. G heads are generally designed to be high performance heads (3SGE, 2TG), so for performance that's what you want. Generally it's easier to get hop up parts for them to. F series heads are designed for fuel ecconomy, so are less desirable. There are a few design factors which make them better heads than the G in a way, but it's probably not enough of a difference to consider them over a G head, plug getting go fast bits isn't as easy. All blocks should look pretty similar, so if you're modifying, just check that everything lines up and holes are drilled in the right place, and you should be OK. The only other thing is that different heads will have exhaust etc. in different spots, so you'll have to change that every time. Could get expensive! Have fun!

Just tune your carbs to run rich at idle, that will make it lumpy :P Then put in a 20/60 or 25/65 so it's not a total pig.

That's purdy! :wink: Any idea how many ponies? Mike

It could be close, it could be way off the mark. I guess if you had to they should be reasonably close for an engine that puts out similar amounts of power, but there are so many things that influence jetting it may not work at all. Exhaust, ignition, compression, port sizes, valve sizes. If you want a strong drivable motor then you want to jet it properly.