awvg

Any updates?

i also have no spark. tried adding a relay between ignitor and coil but still no luck. is this were you added your relay?

Any updates?

thanks mate, sounds like it is more trouble then its worth!

I wouldn't say the questions are all the same, more that they are all related, sorry i will clarify what i am asking, the questions are more related to the power of the field the coil creates, i.e weak field may not impact components around the coil, however if it is a strong field, how far from the computer should i mount the coil so as to it does not interfere? Can I make a shield to to block/ 'capture' any leakage? I will be extending the the primary lead and will be using the thickest lead i can get.

Hey guys I have a couple of questions re the coil, I am tidying up my engine bay in my 55, doing a full wire tuck and moving/hiding everything, this includes moving the coil to the cabin. It is running a 4age and an ltx8. 1) will the coil induce a current in objects around it? 2) is it likely to interfere with the computer or stereo? 3) How far away should i mount the coil from the computer? 4) Can i make a sheild for the coil by placing a copper pipe over it and then earthing the copper pipe? 5) are these just stupid questions? Thanks in advance

thanks alot for your help guys much appreciated .. just looking for the donor as my car is already fully set up with suspension and brakes and is a very clean shell. cheers andre

not sure how much this would help you but found this on ebay. looks like alot of the hard work is already done. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1976-Toyota-Corolla...id=p3286.c0.m14

hay guys as i have recently blown the rings on my worked 5k i was looking into upgrading the engine to the typical 4age etc. i was hopeing to use a donor car that already has the running conversion to save time and headaches and transplant the running gear into my 35 as it doesnt have any rust and has already had the brakes and suspension upgraded. My problem is i can find plenty of ke70's out there but not many 35's or 55's for a worthwhile price. what i was wondering is how compatiable are the two cars, would it be a simple bolt out bolt in or are they so different it wouldnt be worth my while. cheers andre

hey guys i am geeting alot of white smoke in the blow by so am suspecting the rings are gone .. i am able to get some cheep 4k pistons with new rings already but am not 100 per cent sure they fit. correct me if i am wrong but arent the blocks between the 3k 4k and 5k identical and only the 7 k is bigger . thanks for your help andre

any updates?

cheers boys i'll give it a go ... really appreciate it

hi guys i have just recently completed my 5k conversion from my old 4k ... so the motor is running fine with no problems apart from the stock temperature gauge reading just under hot.. i also have an after market water temp gauge off the top radiator hose which is reading a bit under 60 degrees.. the car has a brand new radiator thermostat coolant etc ... WHAT do you guys reckon or have you had any similiar problems after this conversion.. cheers

anyone?

So prob shouldn't have just gone and ripped the engine out with out thinking much about how it is going to go back in... but anyway, I'm re wiring the engine bay on my 55 to hide all the wires and just need some help to identify these plugs.... 1 - Passenger side - Green plug - black/yellow wire and black wire (earth) and Black plug with two black wires (earths) coming out of it (bottom two plugs) 2 - Passenger side - green plug - black/yellow wire 3 - Drivers side - green plug - 2 x red/blue wire and a black wire (earth) 4 - Drivers side - white plug - green/yellow wire thanks guys

Sweet, I thought they wouldn't ship to Aus, i waste so much time on their website!

1980 KE55S XX Corolla Coupe 4K-C (1300cc) 4 Speed manual Stock except for the 14x7.5, 0 offset rims and now with fender mirrors, black crystal headlights and front lip... it is going in next week to get the corona front strut conversion modified as coilovers and reset and an extra leaf in the rear and sway bars all round which should tighten it up and bring it down to earth... at the moment the suspension is shagged, and the breakes aren't much better.... once that stuff is sorted it will be time to move onto the engine.... oh and some watanabes are currently in transit...

thanks for all the info guys its much appreciated... i was speaking to my mechanic whos a good family friend and hes offered to do all the suspension work for me ... looking at new stiffer shocks front and rear, reseting the leafs and new lower front springs... he said he could organise aftermarket front and rear sway bars to.. . i'll post some pics when finished to let use all know how it went... thanks for the help

na nsw unfortunately .. thanks alot for the offer though

oh perfect thanks alot

hay guys ... just doing a little research into lowering my rolla.. the rear shocks are gone so was going to upgrade them when replacing but was wondering if i am going to lower the rear will i need shorter shocks... also what shocks do you guys recomend ... is it a hard process to do myself swapping shocks and lowering the car all round... oh and also what set up at the front do you guys also recomend keeping in mind i want to do it properly not dodgy like cutting the springs etc...

oh ok thanks alot for that really helps... in that case i'll get the wheels and will put some picks up when there on ...

thanks for that... so do you reckon i'll get away with it then ... excuse my ignorance i don't have a clue when it comes to things like offset.. is it the lesser the offset the more the wheels will stick out of the guards and vise versa ???

hay guys i am chasing some wheels at the moment some enkei 14 x 7 's and the guy reckons that they are 0 offset ... they are going on my ke55 and was wondering if anyone has any similar size wheels and offset on theres at the moment and how they sit in the guard (do they stick out etc) appreciate any help Andre

hay mate i have just finished restoring a 76 beetle which i just sold to pay for my ke35.. i paint stripped the whole beetle basically to see what i was dealing with as i knew it had a bit of rust ... it can be a long painful process but i found pretty benefical as i found a few dodgy repair jobs that were covered in bog and paint... i found that the stripper didnt affect the bog to much but i tended to wipe off the stripper aroung the bog basically imediately ... i also found for those stubborn bits of paint that steel wool and paint stripper do a pretty good job or atternatively you can get paint stripper discs that go on the angle grinder which remove the paint excelently but can also scar the metal as well .. remember to wear some thick gloves to when using the stripper as it does burn the skin when you get it on it ... painting wise once the beetle was all clean and free of stripper i gave it a spray over with etch primer try and do this as quick as possible to prevent any contaminants getting on the bare metal ... the etch primer is a coating which makes the paint bond to the metal properly so is a very important step and should idealy be painted over the next day although i left mine for a while and still worked with no issues.. the next step was primer filler this is a thick paint so you will need a thicker nozzle on your gun i used a 2mm tip. this paint was owsome in removing any minor imperfections in the body like scratches etc as being thick you can really lay it on in some areas.. once that is dry sand it back with 400 grit until the primer filler is nice and smooth the smoother the finish on the primer the better the finish on the final coat... with the final coat i used acrylic which after a good cut back and polish being careful around corners ofcourse came up really well not as glossy as two pak but pretty good however to keep up the shine needs to be buffed every once in a while ... i aimed for around 5 to 7 coats being careful not to apply it to thick and waiting 10 to 15 mins between coats... i hadn't heard of the need for a clear coat with acrylic was led to believe was only needed for enamel and two pak to give it its gloss could be wrong but... make sure when you paint too that the weather isnt to humid or to cold as this really affects the paint ... tuning the gun is very important also i was told to shoot the gun vertically onto some masking paper and you will see a cigar shape with lots of little dots of over spray around it... the key is to keep that cigar shape and you may have to fiddle with the fine adjustment knob to remove or reduce those dots of over spray from around it ... the better the gun the lesser the over spray hope this was helpful ... i have painted a few things now and this method i guess you could say has worked really well so far with no problems ... if its your first time practise on some spare panels and experiment with it till you feel confident...