TRD ke70

things have slowed down a little, but we have 99% of the rollcage now welded in. the bars from the front legs to the strut towers, the relocation of the wiper motor and the strut brace were all finished off today. Rust repairs will start tomorrow,which we think will take a little time to complete, then it's roll the shell over and fully seam weld the body.

check these guys out. they do ship international, look down the left side. bolts more bolts

well the rollcage went in today, that was fun. all the foot plates were welded, then the cage went in, in 2 pieces and welded together and then welded to the foot plates. Tomorrow we'll tag the cage to the shell and then fit up the bars that go from the towers to the front legs. If you're wondering what the white stuff is, it's sikaflex to stop and moisture or dirt getting under the foot plates. we use to clean the inside out with a hose!!!

the new shell, if you can call it that. Body deadening removed from the inside, a little seam welding was done around where the rollcage feet sit, already for the cage to go in tomorrow. Cage has had all the old paint stripped off it and etched primed.

not yet but will take some tomorrow, doesn't look anything special yet, and there's some rust to fix, mostly in the back end. and Justin, we have Suzie on Guard.

No,No it's all top secret.

Yes boring out a 4k to 81-83mm is possible but the stress on the block is quite high, this why the 5k block( and also the 7k) has extra strengthening. if you're going to put 4AGE pistons into it you'll need to work out what pistons you need, as the 4k con-rod has a 18mm pin, but most 4age's have the 20mm pin, early 4age's did have the 18mm pin, these are the weak link, you could bore the little end of the con-rod out to take the 20mm pin, but it could weaken the con-rod. also if you're planning to screw good HP out of the engine, there is a good chance of splitting the bore or cracking the block. if you want to enlarge the engine, put a 5k into it and re-number the block, or even better a 7k. good luck.

today we stripped the rollcage back to bare metal(weight reduction) cleaned up all the old foot plates, done a little seam welding around where the foot plates are going in the new body shell. Tony got a lot of the body deadening off the floor and cleaned up some of the seams for welding. pretty happy how things are going considering it's only day 2. should have the rollcage into the new shell tomorrow and mostly welded in. hope to have more photos tomorrow.

if you want the nose cut, come and get it. :)

ARP use to make flywheel bolts for 4AGE and i saw some on ebay the other day, they may still make them. or you could use 7k flywheel bolts if it's for a K engine, better bolt, has a built-in flange and i would imagine they'd be stronger coming from a commercial engine.

Well we have started on the re-shell today. first off was to get the rollcage out of the old body shell, off came the roof. 3 hours later we managed to remove the cage in 4 pieces.

i have a genuine Toyota starlet manual that covers EFI if you need any more info.

are the IAC( idle air control ) water pipes connected? these are the ones connected to the throttle body. a lot of people disconnect them thinking it'll keep the throttle body cold, but it can cause problems. if not, connect them and make sure there is flow though it. have heard of the speed sensor giving problems, but not like this. how'd you set the timing? with terminals T & E jumped across?

if i remember correctly, you go in though where the clutch lever fork goes and compress the big circlip that holds the bearing to the housing, then the housing should pull off.

have you checked the fuel pressure? also the fuel pressure regulator. do you have a new fuel filter?

if you were in Brisbane i have a spare dizzy sitting here, bought it for the Townace, but the Townace has never given a problem. there worth good money the injected dizzy, could be worth selling it on. they are hard to find.

yip, it's a 4Y-E injected dizzy, to get that to work you'll need a computer. here's the wiring for it.

that looks like 4y Tarago injected Dizzy. I'll look to see if i have a wiring diagram.

4y electronic distributor has either 2 or 3 wires coming out of it, the coil and igniter are built-in to the distributor. you shouldn't need anything else, a Y series electronic distributor doesn't have any other external parts. did you remove this from the Hilux yourself or is this what someone has given you? pics would be a great help.

all you need is to connect a + (from the ignition) and _ to the distributor and that's it, everything else is done by the distributor on the inside, including the igniter. just set the timing and away you go.

i would go for sidedraughts, better airflow,less hassle to fit,no extra wiring, no funny needle things to tune, and parts are readily available,also heaps of tuning info out there as well. i'm building a 7k at the moment with ,cam,head,extractors,etc and we're using Dellortos.

they're off what is know as a corolla SR coupe( Ke3x) i think? they were available in NZ. Repco may have a listing, but you need to find someone who'll help you. good luck

i had another look at what i had and found this:

this is all i have

just listened to that video and it sounds like a jetting problem, do you know what jets you have in there? sounds flat, what did they come off? ram pipes(tubes)would be a good idea as well helps with air speed/flow. you need to know your venturi(chokes) sizes and what your jet sizes are. also which way the accelerator pump discharge jets face, basically which way they squirt, they should squirt down the port towards the valve, but some squirt down on to the carby body, not good for performance. if they are secondhand a good strip and clean would also be a good idea.