TRD ke70

you have the vacuum advance hooked up?, Dellorto's don't have a vacuum advance tube, disconnect it!!! this could be your problem, the vacuum advance is changing the timing at idle, the vacuum advance should only work under hi vacuum, lite throttle conditions, not at idle.

Did you replace the manifold gasket? or the "O" rings between the carbys and the manifold? could be an air leak

it's a torrent file of a manual for your car!!!!

this might help!!! http://isohunt.com/download/92623665/mazda.torrent

great, no information on what car you have?????

Being a DX they are already pretty lite!!!, there's no intrusion bars in the doors so forget that, you can hole saw the doors, but be careful where you do. behind/ and under the back seat there is sound deadening that can be removed. Also with a small hole saw you can do the bonnet and boot frames, be careful as well. Don't remove any metal from places that you can't unbolt, because you'll weaken the body shell and you don't have a rollcage to make up for it. You can remove the plastic shields under the front guards if you want to get really keen. Because it's a kiwi car, the regulations are different for fiber glass panels, check with MOT, i think you can replace the panels from memory.

that thing in the side of the sump is a oil level light. Because it's a commercial engine it has it, most commercial van engines had them.

does this engine have double valve springs? this is quite common to shit lifters if the spring pressure is too hi.

And get a genuine Toyota Denso system, not an after market one, Better system and everything will plug into your wiring harness.

mmm, very good question, set them to about 25 thou, at least then you'll have no issues when you start it. It'll be just noisy.

Alloy head is always hot!!!! If it's to noisy, just take a couple of thou off it, won't make any difference.

we might machine the rocker pedestals and wine the adjusters down.

i think 3T ones will be the wrong diameter.

Blown head gasket??? maybe

i have a set of lifters here, if you are still looking for some?

3k bigport gaskets?

wouldn't a 7k one be the same?, if so Toyota should still make them. out of a KR42 townace

the engine check light doesn't always come on, even if it logs a code. what could be a good idea for you, would be to get a workshop manual for your car,preferably a genuine Toyota one as they have better more accurate info. most codes for Toyota are generic, as from 96 (i think) all car manufacturers had to meet a standard for diagnostics, know as OBD 2. Google Toyota OBD codes and you should get a few pages with them on it.

electrical for sure, ignition module and coil as kryton brown has said, doesn't sound like fuel. needs to go on an oscilloscope to be sure. the choking you mentioned, sounds like the coil is breaking down. A good auto sparky should be able to sort it quickly. whats your location? Know of a really good sparky in brisbane's northside.

check to see if the little wire has fallen off the solenoid on top of the starter.

clutch kit and a spigot bearing as well. maybe look at getting the flywheel machined, there's mobile guys out who'll come to you. you could replace the old K40 with a K50, would make it nicer to drive at 100k's.

we made our own, but it's for an uprite engine but it'll give you some idea. we welded the cable piece from a standard carb on to the linkage. have a look though the rest of the gallery there's another photo, maybe a better angle. engine

it's because of the the venturi sizes not the size of the butterflies, it's all about air speed not CFM. Fuel metering has a lot to do with it, holleys meter fuel for the whole engine, side draughts meter the fuel per cylinder. obviously there's more to it but that's the basic's.

Could be the bearing carrier has given up, have seen these give problems before

sounds like the pressure plate has shit it's self, this would be why the clutch pedal is so high and it's hard to get into gear.