coln72

got one you could have if you want. Might even be able to dig up my modded carby for you to try.

Have a couple of fuel pumps here if you want to try one.

A fan creates a shit load of drag when you get up in the rev range, so it uses power that could be used to make you go faster :) Drill the holes on the outside of where the filter sits or cut out the side of the filter housing. Air still goes through the filter so no probs on dirt. And what size is your new exhaust? If its standard diameter tubing then it is too restrictive.

Best thing for you to do as a start is to replace the exhaust with a 2" system. don't need extractors if you have the twin outlet pipe manifold. Get the exhaust mob to bolt the 2 inch system to this. Play around with your ignition timing, try around 12 deg advance. Drill holes in your aircleaner housing to let more air in and maybe fit a cold air intake to it. Remove fan to reduce drag. Fit an electric fuel pump. These are some simple things that can be done to improve how a k motor performs without opening it up. most should be Ok if you compete in a stock class.

Always ran like shit. This was on holden 6's (some of these were pretty tough) and ford 351's etc. Persivered with the Ford for ages before replacing it with a Carter.

It only had the 3k carby on it until I worked out how to link up my twins ;) and that 3k carby was modded a little :P Ran my 5k's with twin 3k carbs so I guess they were effectively seeing 2.4l of carbies with no issues. Only way is to bolt it on and see. Just don't change it too much because if it does run like a piece of shit you can go back. The only issue I have is it is a Holley!!!!!!! The old man used to unbolt them and throw them away and bolt on a decent carby. Motors amazingly ran better :D

Think I actually got sunburnt!!!!! Got a good spot in the stand so it wasnt bad and it really didn't rain till after the race. Looked worse on the bigscreens than what it actually was.

here is a pic of the car fronts are 185/65/13's look kinda small don't they :D

Dunno what they would have been like on bitumen, but on smooth dirt they would turn in ok, but the front would then wash out unter power. Guess it was because the front was mismatched to the rear blah, blah, blah. Went faster with softer suspension, ended up softening the rear as well.

I know that the shocks could not of handled the springs now ;) It was just something I thought I should try as people kept saying "why not stiffen up the front, it would be so much faster" etc. I wasn't and even when it wasnt bouncing it would understeer heaps. So back the the way it was and back to winning events again :D

tried cut down V8 Kingswood springs in my 20 and the standard struts didnt like them at all. As soon as you hit a bump at speed you would start bouncing. Its a tad hard trying to get it turned in when both fronts are 3 inched off the ground! Toss Holden springs, whack in cut standards back to good again :D

As I was only a poofteenth off the bumpstops, the rear tyres were the suspension. 225/60/13's were nice and baggy on a 6" rim and really filled out the rear guards on my old ke35.

cutting I can deal with, but welding springs..........don't think so.

12 deg BTDC will not make it ping its head off. Used to run with more before unleaded fuel came in. Those in the know always told me to add half again to what the factory recomended :D

click on the links in philba's post

Yeah, thet were a birthday pressie ;) Don't worry, this will cost me heaps in the long run :D , especially since its on the wifes birthday.

I must rear tyres must of had too much grip (were 225's). The only time I had compression lockup the gearbox went bang :D and spat teeth off first gear.

used to run my 5k's around 12 deg BTDC.

G'day all Just wondering if any of you guys are heading to the race this weekend. Missus gave me tickets for Sunday so if all goes well I will be trackside early to get a good possie.

I think all of us have a few stories like that :D To avoid incriminating myself I think I will keep quiet.........

As a metallurgist by qualification, the amount of heat generated and the area it is spread over will not kill the spring. Around the cut the metals structure will be altered but if you cut slowly (don't do it in one big hit the metal should not be "burnt", take a rest) and do not quench the end result (so it doesn't turn brittle) you should be right. Also Rob, this is one of the few times I disagree with you. The stiffness of the spring DOES depend on the number of the coils. It also depends on diameter of the spring and the thickness of the wire. The shorter the length of wire in any given spring the stiffer it will be as there is less wire to do the twisting. can't remember the formular off the top of my head but I can dig it up. In the example used above, if everything else stays the same - weight of say 100kg is applied - the first spring has a rate of 100/10 = 10kg/cm while the second has a rate of 100/5 = 20kg/cm Twice as stiff. Shit I did remember something of Uni. Must of actually went to theat class :locked:

Good luck finding some. We are chasing some (offcuts) for our human powered racer and its like hens teeth.

Before you lock it Red, I run cut standard springs for close to eight years without a problem. They were cut significantly. In fact the second cut was made without removing the springs :locked: as the nose sat too high after dropping the rear almost to the stops. Yes they did come off the seats when the car was fully jacked up but for them to drop out you would have to be airbourne, which is a lot braver than I was on the road. Anyway if I got it that wrong I think the springs would have been the least of my worries. If you are concerned you could wire/cable tie springs in place or just ask the tyre place to put them back for you :D. I guess one of the reasons I didn't have an issue is that with the second sway bar I was running, the travel was about two inches anyway but there still wasn't an issue when this was removed.

Check if the v8's are the real deal or just stocky's with body kits and loud pipes. For me go for the formular fords, can't have the instructor in the passenger seat telling you to slow down :locked:

couple of points 1. I didn't mention motorkhana's. I said autocrossing. Totally different animals. Autocrossing requires a 2S (speed) license. When I was autocrossing I was sideways at close to max revs in third gear (7000+) on hardpacked clay covered with granite sand. Nothing I have done on the road required the same control as that. 2. Either a KE70 is a very different animal to drive (never been in one), you have a very healthy 4k or you have set up yours totally different to my old KE35 of KE20. Both had worked 5K's and neither of these would step out without severe provocation in the dry. 3. I've always be against the clock and sideways usually equals slow so I set my cars up not to slide as best I could. 4. I never said that you were not capable of successfully drifting. I know it takes a great deal of skill to do it properly. I feel public roads are not the place for it. We have had a number of kids killed at school over the last couple of years trying this. Unfortunately the driver, who survived, killed his mates. Hell of a thing to live with in a small town. As you said though, its your personal choice, and you will have to wear the consequences of your actions.